I need them for the front. I only get about 50% engagement of the lug nut threads and I'd like 100%. Really I need it given the car's use in road course racing. If it turns out I need to use hub-centric 3mm spacers with my Hoosiers... well then I'm really wanting longer studs. I noticed some of the guys in the paddock had them fitted on their cars and they claimed its easier to mount and dismount the wheels with them as well.
For street use I have extended lug nuts so I could get away with maybe an extra 1/2" to 3/4" of length. Maybe even a full inch. My racing wheels use open lugs so length is a non-issue.
Ideas, anyone? I don't know where to start.
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Here we go, Matt.
Here is a visual comparison between the ones that I used (1/4"+) and stock.
These are the 1/4" and the 1" longer ones.
The first stud is a tad over 1/4" longer than stock. Notice that the spline length is a bit shorter, although the O.D. of the splines are about .005" larger on the new stud. This should help when pressed into a used hub. The other stud is a full inch longer than stock, with the same spline O.D. The extra spline length should not cause any problems and if the overall length is too long, they can always be cut down.
*One modification has to be done on these. Our stock studs have a flat cut out of the round end flanges and the new ones do not. You can kinda see that in the first picture. I machined them off on a mill, but a grinder should do fine.
*I did press these out and back in with the hub (front) on the car. I modified a beefy C-clamp for this. As you would know, to hammer the studs out of these hubs would be a no-no.
Here (#610-435) is the first one. I think that I bought mine at a NAPA store. Here (#610-326) is the second one which I found at AutoZone for $1.99.
Good luck, bud.
Outstanding. Thanks Jonn! Super helpful!
As a follow up, I bought the 1/4"-longer studs. Unfortunately, I could not get the cheaper Dorman studs, which at present are made of unobtainium in California it seems. All of the auto parts stores had the part number and all of them said "not in stock and can't order them."
The alternative is to buy the genuine GM wheel stud, which is what I did. The Dorman Products links that MagFX gives above (if you get a session expiration warning, go to the site's home page and then search for the Dorman part number he gives in his post) will give you both the original GM part number for a direct search. It will also give you the vehicles for which the parts fit in case you want to walk into the local Napa and try your luck.
Once you have the GM part number, go to a GM parts place like http://gmpartsdirect.com and search for the part number.
One interesting thing about longer wheel studs is a bit nasty: The longer the studs the more careful you have to be about putting the wheel on exactly straight. Get it sideways and it can hang up *tight* on the longer studs.
- The 610-435 Dorman studs are GM part 15734261, which is available for $3.41 per lug plus shipping at gmpartsdirect.com.
- the longer 610-326 Dorman studs are GM part 15545356. A search of gmpartsdirect.com comes up empty on that part number.
I did the rears on mine with the dorman I still have the fronts to do. I woudl like to get the longer stud for the the rears.
So I have a bigger caliper in the front and needed a spacer. Picked up one that is 5/16th. Now when I installed my big heavy wheels I counted 5 1/2 turns until the lug was tight. So I called my mechanic and had him get the 1" longer studs (610-326). I watched the guy try and install one and it looks like the knurled end is thicker and won't go through the hole. I made him put back the three studs he took out.
Any suggestions? Will an extra 1/4" be enough to engage a safe amount of threads? Going to Atco on Friday need this done.
Last edited by 06HotRod; 03-16-2010 at 12:32 AM.
Picked up the 435's (Autozone) and I got them in the hole! The knurl is the same diameter as the stock ones. I may still get the 326's.
I know this is an old thread but hopefully I can get some help. I have an 07 2.7 300. I recently obtained some used wheels. Jesse James O.G.s. The fronts are 22x9.5 and the rears are 22x10.5. They had 265 tires all around. They looked fine on the fronts but on the rears they looked too small. I recently traded the back tires for 295s but now the tires rub against the wheels well. The tire shop installed spacers btu the wheels stick out a lot. I bought 17 mm spacers on ebay to lessen the amount the wheel stick out but the new spacers now push out too far from the studs so I can't get a lug on it. (the old spacers had studs built into them.)
Will i be able to use the methods described above to replace the studs on the rears as I would on the fronts?
Sorry for the novel.
Spacer from the tire shop on the left, ebay spacer on the right
The rears are quite a bit more work to deal with, (I didn't change them like I did the fronts for that reason) but you can do it if you're willing to take the time to disassemble and then reassemble enough stuff to make it happen.
Dont know if this will help. I bought some cheap rims for my snow tires. were supposed to fit but hit caliper, ball joint and tie rod end. well with some grinding and a spacer, made em fit. i too wasnt comfy with the thread engaugement, so i drilled down the lug holes in the rim a bit. still have a lot of meat left. i used a 1" drill bit.
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I've got new hubs going onto the car as part of its rebuild and those new hubs will have longer studs put on all around. That may be the best time to do this for the rears at least. If you have to pull the hubs off anyway...