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Thread: Clunk is Gone

  1. #1
    zonian's Avatar
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    Clunk is Gone

    OK, so my car has really been bugging me for well over a year now. Felt like the front end was going to fall off every time I went over a bump...even extra scary on the highway.

    In May I replaced inner & outer tie rod ends...that helped tremendously...it was such an improvement that I actually at first thought it fixed all my clunk issues. But, sadly, over time I realized I still had clunk.

    I've had SRT springs & shocks since about Jul '07...since then I put 80K+ on them and figured they were shot anyway, so I ordered Pedders shocks as replacements. About a month ago I installed them...that helped the overall ride alot. Because my tension strut bushings were cracked, I also ordered the Pedders critical kit at the same time as the shocks, but did not install it.

    While I had the car jacked up and the wheels off to install the shocks, I started my search to find the source of my clunk. I pounded, shook, twisted, and otherwise manhandled every piece of the suspension I could get my hands on, but I could not duplicate or hear any clunk.

    So finally I decided to get CSI scientific. I used a stethoscope to isolate the sounds. While banging on the brake disc with a rubber mallet, I moved the stethoscope around listening to the various joints (without touching them) in the suspension. The only clunk I found was coming from the ball joint in the tension strut...mind you it was not overwhelming, but it could definitely be heard with the stethoscope.

    So, I ordered new tension struts w/new ball joints, had the Pedder's TS bushings installed into them, and put them on the car this weekend.

    That eliminated the clunk!!! I'm sure the ball joint end of the tension strut is what really fixed the clunk, but the car feels MUCH tighter, probably because of the Pedder's bushings. It also fixed high speed braking vibration. Still get a little wobble on bumps at high speed, but I think the rest of the Pedder's critical kit will fix that when I get it installed.

    Hope this helps the rest of you that are suffering the dreaded clunk...

    Paul
    My wife says I never listen to her...or something like that.

  2. #2
    BuckeyeRT's Avatar
    BuckeyeRT is offline Life is fragile, handle with prayer.
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    That is great news! Congrats.
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    HemiPowered5700's Avatar
    HemiPowered5700 is offline Raging Inferno
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    How hard was it to 1 install the pedders bushings and 2 install the tension struts? PM me if you wanna...

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    Nice job!
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  5. #5
    zonian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HemiPowered5700 View Post
    How hard was it to 1 install the pedders bushings and 2 install the tension struts? PM me if you wanna...

    I did not press the bushings in...I had them done at Medinah Automotive...they they ended up charging me $70 to do them. They wouldn't give me a price up front because they had not done them before. I thought that was pretty high, but they said it took an hour???? Maybe now that they have done it once the next time wont take so long?

    The install of the TS's was pretty easy. Hardest part was separating the ball joint...1st side took about 1.5 hours....2nd side about 30 minutes.

    Paul
    My wife says I never listen to her...or something like that.

  6. #6
    cleary524's Avatar
    cleary524 is offline Hemi Reg#1120
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    That's awesome...glad you got it fixed. My front end is clunky too and I've done the outter tie rods and end links all ready. Clunk still there and I suspect the ball joints and control arm bushings are the culprits.
    Good for you! Cheers.
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    karfreek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zonian View Post
    Still get a little wobble on bumps at high speed, but I think the rest of the Pedder's critical kit will fix that when I get it installed.



    Paul
    The bump steer kit will fix that. I did it this weekend, and WOW. I never thought my car was that bad, I only installed it because I needed the Control Arm and Tension rod bushings, and it was much cheaper to get the critical kit.

    Now, I just need to get the worn Tension rod and Control arm bushings done, but that apt is for friday.

    FWIW: My car has gone thru two sets of OEM control arm and tension bushings at just 56k. Hopefully with the pedders installed this will be the last time.

    Jay
    2011 Dodge Challenger R/T Classic - Redline 3-Coat Pearl, 6-speed
    2005 Dodge Magnum RT-Can you say...HEMI?
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    HemiPowered5700's Avatar
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    Thank you! I'll be doing this soon.

  9. #9
    progolfer82 is offline LX Padiwan
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    Good to hear! I also replaced my tension struts this weekend and got rid of 70% of my clunk. the other 30% is my outter tie rods and are shot. I will be replacing this week and I'm sure that will end the clunk for ever!!! I didnt by OEM tension struts and got mine from rockauto and were Mevotech. They had a beefy bushing and ball joint. I replaced both my tension struts in about 1 hour for both sides. I put on a lift and I suggest taking off your tires to help with remove the tension strut and will also take the weight off. I will post pictures of the job tonight hopefully if I have time.

  10. #10
    zonian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by karfreek View Post
    The bump steer kit will fix that. I did it this weekend, and WOW. I never thought my car was that bad, I only installed it because I needed the Control Arm and Tension rod bushings, and it was much cheaper to get the critical kit.

    Now, I just need to get the worn Tension rod and Control arm bushings done, but that apt is for friday.

    FWIW: My car has gone thru two sets of OEM control arm and tension bushings at just 56k. Hopefully with the pedders installed this will be the last time.

    Jay

    Jay,

    Did you order new lower control arms? If yes, what P/N's and from where?

    Any tips on installing the bump-steer kit? maybe will do that this weekend.

    Paul
    My wife says I never listen to her...or something like that.

  11. #11
    zonian's Avatar
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    Here is what I took out:

    RH Tension strut:









    LH Tension Strut:









    The cracks in the bushings are self-evident. The looseness of the ball joint was similar to the looseness of my tie rod ends...easily wiggled with just a finger. By contrast, when installing the new tension struts, I had to use vise-grips and hefty force to pivot the ball joints so they would line up with the hole in the knuckle.
    Last edited by zonian; 11-02-2009 at 01:42 PM.
    My wife says I never listen to her...or something like that.

  12. #12
    karfreek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zonian View Post
    Jay,

    Did you order new lower control arms? If yes, what P/N's and from where?

    Any tips on installing the bump-steer kit? maybe will do that this weekend.

    Paul
    I am reusing the ones that were installed under warranty two years ago, almost to the day.

    Jay
    2011 Dodge Challenger R/T Classic - Redline 3-Coat Pearl, 6-speed
    2005 Dodge Magnum RT-Can you say...HEMI?
    2004 Chrysler Pacifica AWD-Everything but the kitchen sink.


  13. #13
    diboblo's Avatar
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    Mr. Incredible found some more information on updated OEM Tension Struts.

    Check it: Tension strut info.

    2006 SRT8 Charger... The Dragon!
    Now tuned to Raise Hell!


  14. #14
    zonian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by karfreek View Post
    I am reusing the ones that were installed under warranty two years ago, almost to the day.

    Jay
    How are you gonna install the new bushings into the old control arms?

    Paul
    My wife says I never listen to her...or something like that.

  15. #15
    karfreek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zonian View Post
    How are you gonna install the new bushings into the old control arms?

    Paul
    80 ton press.
    2011 Dodge Challenger R/T Classic - Redline 3-Coat Pearl, 6-speed
    2005 Dodge Magnum RT-Can you say...HEMI?
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