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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Bloomington, MN
    Posts
    176
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    Is it really necessary to remove the entire spindle to press out the bushing? Does the miller tool not fit in place unless it is removed?
    Black 2006 Charger R/T

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Ukraine
    Posts
    497
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    Guys I have a question. Is there any good and reliable way of checking weather this lower ball-joints are dead, or not? I always drive to the Bosch suspension test workshop where they move your wheels in all possible directions and they are able to determine if any gap is present in the ball-joints but they say they cannot check that for the lower ones. The only way is when it starts to squeak and then you need to push oil inside of it. If that squeak comes back pretty fast then that ball-joint is worn. But currently I have a noise and that ball is not making squeak, and still want to be sure that the lower ball-joint is not my problem. So is there any way to check it, or I should not worry and just wait for the squeak?


  3. #33
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    friggin' cold 5 months of the year, Sask.
    Posts
    9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dimon View Post
    Guys I have a question. Is there any good and reliable way of checking weather this lower ball-joints are dead, or not? I always drive to the Bosch suspension test workshop where they move your wheels in all possible directions and they are able to determine if any gap is present in the ball-joints but they say they cannot check that for the lower ones. The only way is when it starts to squeak and then you need to push oil inside of it. If that squeak comes back pretty fast then that ball-joint is worn. But currently I have a noise and that ball is not making squeak, and still want to be sure that the lower ball-joint is not my problem. So is there any way to check it, or I should not worry and just wait for the squeak?
    Just replaced front passenger side inner and outer tie rods, thinking the wheel wobble was fixed,only to find the lower ball joint is worn also. If you jack up the car near the wheel you have concerns about, grab the wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock and give it a twist. I did this and saw the spindle move up and down :>(
    Hope this helps.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    american canyon,ca.
    Posts
    878
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    Thumbs up

    I know this is an old thread, but once I got the right c-frame and miller tool with just a little heat the old joint came out like butter!! F'd around for 3 weeks trying different tools,even made the plate that the receiver sets on (it lasted about 3mins and bent in half). Bent the el cheapo Harbor frt. tool c-press as well... now I'm back on track for SF9
    • '08 R/T,R&T,Mopar CAI,F&R strut braces,rear air diffuser,Diablo 91 oct CAI tune,BT waterneck,catch can,fusebox,strut & cap covers,Jet 180* t-stat,RE hood/trunk strut covers,UAS, Accuair,Progress F&R sways,SPC UCAs,JHS Adj.camber links,BigD Adj.sway end links,BCR Adj. shocks,22" staggered Savini BM-7s,Painted ABS cover,radiator tank,firewall & radiator shroud,Stainless braided lines,3Gs custom cover insert,Tinted windows,tails,BFX HIDs,VDI doors,Billet pedals,Hurst billet shifter,R/T logo trunk liner,Flowmaster super 40s,Blastin' bob resos,4" DW tips.
    • 1999 Dakota CC R/T
    • 1968 Charger R/T

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Tool, TX
    Posts
    21
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    I gave up on press tools too. I ended up sticking the spindle in a table vice, heating the spindle around the ball joint with a torch until it was glowing very bright. And used an air hammer with a chisel attachment against the ball joint. It came out within seconds. Burned the old one up though. I was able to place the new joint in by hand without pressing it. That's how hot and expanded the spindle was lol. Down side was that ended up Super heating the new ball joint and overheated the little bit of grease it came with. No biggie just pumped it full of new grease. I have a video of how I got it knocked out. Maybe I'll post it with pics.

    Sent from the third Note of the Galaxy using Tapatalk.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    american canyon,ca.
    Posts
    878
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    Unhappy

    Did the same thing,almost had the ball joint seated applied a little more pressure on the jack screw and BANG entire collar broke off... So next time its freeze the ball joint and heat the area around the mounting hole on the spindle. Well see how that works, D
    Quote Originally Posted by skeletonizer View Post
    Even with the Miller tools it is possible to fark $hit up. Apparently I had the one cocked a bit. It didn't take much pressure to ruin it.

    Now I'm just pissed.


  7. #37
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Monroe Washington
    Posts
    1,088
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    great post....I'll make to save this for future reference

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Tool, TX
    Posts
    21
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    Wow. Glad that didn't happen to me. I guess dropping the ball joint in while the spindle is hot was not such a bad idea. No pressing required.

    Sent from the third Note of the Galaxy using Tapatalk.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    american canyon,ca.
    Posts
    878
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    Smile

    Om my second attempt,I put the ball joint in the freezer for about 2hrs, then heated the ball joint mount hole with a Mapp torch. I also used a different install cup the fit the ball joint tighter. Went right in, when it got a little tight I added alittle more heat..,D

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Cape Girardeau, MO
    Posts
    79
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    So is buying the miller kit the only way to do this? I've tried all day to get these lower ball joints pressed out with no luck. Local parts store ball joint c-press didn't budge them (I think I even bent it a little). I tried using a 40 ton press but the knuckle is too awkwardly shaped to line it up the with press correctly. Even when I gave up and brought the knuckles to a machine shop, they looked at them and gave them back to me. They weren't comfortable trying to remove it. They said they probably could by heating it up, but that they didn't want to do that since it could weaken the integrity of the part or possibly break. I'm at a loss and now without my daily driver. I guess it's off to bring the knuckles to the chrysler dealer then.
    2005 Chrysler 300 Limited - 76,000 miles. Bone stock except for window tint 35% front 20% rear

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    South Jersey
    Posts
    2,685
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    Quote Originally Posted by nicktylermo View Post
    So is buying the miller kit the only way to do this? I've tried all day to get these lower ball joints pressed out with no luck. Local parts store ball joint c-press didn't budge them (I think I even bent it a little). I tried using a 40 ton press but the knuckle is too awkwardly shaped to line it up the with press correctly. Even when I gave up and brought the knuckles to a machine shop, they looked at them and gave them back to me. They weren't comfortable trying to remove it. They said they probably could by heating it up, but that they didn't want to do that since it could weaken the integrity of the part or possibly break. I'm at a loss and now without my daily driver. I guess it's off to bring the knuckles to the chrysler dealer then.

    I have removed them with c clamp ball joint press. Remember you need to remove the c clip holding it.
    2006 Dodge Charger R/T - 85mm Throttle Body, AFE Stage 2 CAI, 6.1 Intake Manifold, Modern Muscle Intake Adapters, 219/223 cam, 6.1 pushrods, Manley NEXTEK Valve Springs, 6.1 Timing Chain, 6.1 oil pump, Edelbrock Titech Headers, Flowmasters X pipe, Thrush 2 Chamber Mufflers, Flowmaster Resonators and tailpipes, 3200 Edge Converter, Mopar TCM, Tranzformer, Carbon Fiber Pistol Grip Shifter, 3.06, Brake Performance drilled and slotted rotors.

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Cape Girardeau, MO
    Posts
    79
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackAce View Post
    I have removed them with c clamp ball joint press. Remember you need to remove the c clip holding it.
    I finally got them pressed out and the new ones in! I rented the ball joint c-press kit from autozone which was much better and had much more adapters/pieces to the set. So use that one and not the one from oreilly auto guys. Using that with the impact wrench finally broke them free and popped them out of there.

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    816
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    I took mine to a local tire shop they pressed them in and the old ones out in 5 min & $35.

    06 SRTC
    - SPC - Hellwig/Police Sways - ST-X Coils - Drake FSB - LMI CF CAI - Corsa Extreme - 08+ Black Int. Conv. - 2010 SRT Charger Interior - Hurst - 91 Tune - MTCM - HC 20X9/10 - Sponh Arms - MagnaFlow Cats - BT -



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