Brake Pad Replacement (5.7L) - Step by Step

[Junior]

Here's the procedure for swapping the brake pads on the 5.7L LX's. I believe the process is essentially the same for the V6's (Here's (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=95260) an excellent write-up JamminWagon did for the V6'ers). The Brembos are different, and I'll do a write-up on those soon. Also, I've added some photos and information about servicing the guide pins in Post #20 (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showpost.php?p=1363877&postcount=20), below.

Tools needed:
13mm, 15mm, and 18mm box- and open-end wrenches.
Two Quick-grip clamps, or c-clamps with two small blocks of wood (1x2x2 or so).
12" of some tie-wire or string.
Aerosol brake cleaner.

Front Brakes - Starting Point:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2126.jpg

Here's the top of the caliper assembly. You'll be working on the bottom of the assembly, not the top, but it's easier to see what needs to happen when looking at the top. There's a 13mm bolt that comes from the backside of the assembly, and a bushing that it passes through (called the guide pin), which needs to be held with an 18mm wrench:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2130copy.jpg

Here's the bottom of the caliper, with the wrenches on the fasteners. You need to remove the 13mm bolt, while keeping the 18mm guide pin from spinning:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2136.jpg

Once it's loose, remove the bolt:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2138.jpg

Then take the end of the 13mm wrench and pry the caliper away from the assembly:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2145.jpg

Then rotate the caliper up and away from the assembly. If it's really snug, before you rotate the caliper upwards, pull the caliper towards you firmly for a few seconds, and then back away from you - this should retract the pistons enough to provide the clearance necessary.

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2147.jpg

Here's the caliper rotated up. Tie the caliper up and out of the way (I used some copper wire):

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2150.jpg

Then simply lift the brake pads out of the "caliper adapters" on each side (inside and outside):

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2152.jpg

If they're grimy, you can take out the "anti-rattle clips" and clean them up.

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2153.jpg

Wow, I guess it was time, eh?

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2163.jpg

Because of the obvious difference in thickness from old to new, you need to provide more clearance to get the calipers over the new pads. Here's the pistons as the were:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2168.jpg

So you need to retract the pistons in their bore. First, open the brake fluid reservoir up in the engine bay, below the driver's side windshield wiper. DO NOT top off the reservoir at this time, even if it appears low. Retracting the pistons will return ALL of the original fluid to the reservoir.

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2176.jpg

Then take the Quick-grips and apply pressure to the pistons to retract them - do both at the same time - you don't want one to compensate for the other. If you use c-clamps, you must use a piece of wood (or similar) to protect the faces of the pistons. Quick-grips are the way to go, if you have them:

Here's how they'll go (but remember - wait until both clamps are on there - do both at the same time):

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2173.jpg

Both clamps on:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2169.jpg

Here are the pistons fully retracted:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2178.jpg

And the new pads swapped on:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2182.jpg

[Junior]

OK, once the new pads are seated, untie the caliper and rotate it back down. Guide the pistons over the backside pad, and the caliper into the caliper adapter.

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2183.jpg

The guide pin bushing has trapped air behind it, which makes it seem spring-loaded, so push it in a little bit as you seat the caliper so it clears:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2185.jpg

Reinstall the guide pin bolt, and while holding the guide pin with the 18mm wrench again, torque it down. The FSM says 44 ft. lbs. - but if you don't have a torque wrench that will fit back there, give it a good hearty pull on the box-end wrench, and you should be right there.

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2187.jpg

Rear Brakes - Starting Point:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2188.jpg

These are nearly the same as the fronts, but there's only one piston, and you rotate the calipers down instead of up. Also, the guide pin bolt is a 15mm in the rear - the guide pin is the same 18mm. Here they are:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2189.jpg

Hold the 18mm, and loosen the 15mm:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2191.jpg

Rotate the caliper down:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2193.jpg

Retract the piston (with the brake fluid reservoir cap off):

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2194.jpg

Swap the brake pads:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2197.jpg

Push the guide pin in, while rotating the caliper back up:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2201.jpg

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2204.jpg

Reinstall the guide pin bolt:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2205.jpg

...and torque it down. If you lean the 18mm wrench on the knuckle, you can free up both hands for tightening the 15mm:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2206.jpg

Here's a situation I ran into on the rear driver's side. The FSM didn't mention this. Due to the routing and the angles of the brake line on this side, I could neither rotate the caliper up or down - the fitting on the brake line hit the fenderwell. No big deal, though - it just meant I had to remove both guide pin bolts and pull the caliper off the assembly.

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2214.jpg

Tie it up so it's not hanging on the brake line, and proceed:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2216.jpg

And there you have it:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2218.jpg

Be sure to replace the cap on the fluid reservoir before doing anything else.

After driving on the new pads for a few miles, you can check the brake fluid reservoir level, and top it off if necessary - though it's unlikely that it will be down at all.

Within a week or so, it's a good idea to bed in the brakes. Here's the proper procedure for doing that, from Dave Zeckhausen:

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

Cheers!

[FloridaRT]

Good write....................nice photos.

Bob

[fnkychkn]

great write-up Junior. bucket-o-beans for you :thumbs_u:
KB submission perhaps?

just for clarification; the guide pins are not spring loaded, trapped air makes it feel that way. also, it's a good idea to clean/lubricate the guide pins.

[Braddah Jay]

Very good useful write up! Gotta bookmark this for future reference.:beerchug:

[RobAGD]

Great write up Mike !

Beans man.

Damn went the squeakers going nuts ? not much pad left at all.

As a personal preferance I add new fluid to the rez and bleed out the calibers of the older stuff that has a higher chance of being slightly burnt :) You know from those tire wall avoidance manuvers that maybe you know maybe over heated the fluid a tad :mrgreen:

-Robert

[charginscott]

Great write up man - May I add one thing....

The safest way to compress the caliper pistons would be to do it with the old pad against the pistons with one clamp in the middles of them.

Cudozzz for a good write up

[JamminWagon]

Dang it Funky beat me to it, you should also lube the guide pins.

Here is a pic from the V-6 right up I did showing the guide pin re-lubed
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff46/JamminWagon/rotors/DSC00087.jpg

The rest of the V-6 brake/rotor change.

http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=95260

[bipto]

Dude - how long did you have to search to find brake pads to match your car..? :mrgreen:

Seriously man - great tutorial! :rock:

[MAGFX]

Wow, another good write up.:not_worth

Junior, I love too read these, even if they do not pertain to my vehicle. :beerchug:

[Junior]

Wow, some great suggestions for additional info up there! Thanks fellas - I'll make some edits after the game.

[MattRobertson]

Junior, get it the way you want it and I'll put it into the Knowledge Base. Great work!

[Junior]

just for clarification; the guide pins are not spring loaded, trapped air makes it feel that way. also, it's a good idea to clean/lubricate the guide pins.
Thanks Pete - do those just pull out from the rear once the caliper is removed?

Damn went the squeakers going nuts ? not much pad left at all.
Yeah, they were squawking for a few days before I got the pads in!

As a personal preferance I add new fluid to the rez and bleed out the calibers of the older stuff that has a higher chance of being slightly burnt :) You know from those tire wall avoidance manuvers that maybe you know maybe over heated the fluid a tad :mrgreen:
I was tempted, but didn't do it - but I suspect you're right and I further suspect half of my stock pad material was left behind at that precise location...!

So do you add just enough to replace the volume from the calipers, or is it a complete fluid change?

Great write up man - May I add one thing....

The safest way to compress the caliper pistons would be to do it with the old pad against the pistons with one clamp in the middles of them.
That's a great idea. I may take some more pictures and update this in the next week - if so, I'll take some of that idea...

Dang it Funky beat me to it, you should also lube the guide pins.
Thanks man, I think I'll take them apart again and do that - the wear was incredibly uneven on my stock pads (inside was way down vs. outside had plenty left). I suspect (and others suggested) that this was likely due to the guide pins sticking. I have some "Disc Brake High-temp bearing grease", or...?

Here is a pic from the V-6 right up I did showing the guide pin re-lubed
<snip>
The rest of the V-6 brake/rotor change.

http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=95260
Thanks again, I missed it (a couple weeks ago? dang!) - I linked to it at the top of my first post above.

Dude - how long did you have to search to find brake pads to match your car..? :mrgreen:

Seriously man - great tutorial! :rock:
Thanks Bill - They're EBC TopBanana Stuff pads. :mrgreen:

Junior, get it the way you want it and I'll put it into the Knowledge Base. Great work!
OK! Give me a few days to get answers from above and work them in with some more pics...

[RobAGD]

Junior - I ended up doing a full flush but when its a "normal" pad replacment I just replace whats need to refill what I squeese out from the bleeder.

-R

[Junior]

Junior - I ended up doing a full flush but when its a "normal" pad replacment I just replace whats need to refill what I squeese out from the bleeder.
Which is what, usually? A pump or two on the brakes, or...?

[RobAGD]

Humm I think all told I used a bottle maybe total for all 4 brakes with some left over sorry :)

Full Flush I honestly dont recall how much because I pushed out a lot of extra, I had bought 3 bottles if I recall correctly.

-Robert

[fnkychkn]

Thanks Pete - do those just pull out from the rear once the caliper is removed?
yes, they just pull out. i use mopar brake grease P/N J8993704 which can be seen on page 27 of this pdf: http://www.wkjeeps.com/misc/Vehicle_care_catalog_2006.pdf

[MattRobertson]

It doesn't take much to move fluid thru these lines. My experience was similar to Rob's. I've done quickee bleeds in the paddock where I pump till I see clear fluid on all four wheels and I've used like a half-bottle or so, tops.

Incidentally a bleeder bottle is a great thing for keeping the mess down. Can those be used on stock brakes? I'm only talking about a sports bottle with a flexible tube on it to collect the fluid while I pump the pedal. Not one of those big fancy pneumatic jobbies.

[Junior]

I haven't done anything with fluid on these brakes, but on the Ghia and motorcycles I've used a mason jar with an inch or so of new fluid, and then a hose that fits on the bleeder nipple from there to the jar. That way the air comes out of the hose into the fluid, and once the air is purged out of the lines, there's no way for air to get taken back into the system.

Is that what you're talking about?

[Junior]

OK, here's an update with info on servicing the guide pins. The guide pins are what allows the pistons on only one side of the caliper to apply even pressure to pads on both sides of the rotor. They allow the caliper to float between the inside and outside.

If you read through the procedure above, what follows should make sense. You can either do one guide pin at a time, or remove the caliper (and tie it up) and do both pins at the same time. I think it's easier to do the latter.

Here's one, as you find it:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2330.jpg

You need to pull the guide pin out of the rubber sleeve that it's in. This sleeve is what traps the air in, and makes the pins feel spring-loaded. It may be tight at the widest part of the guide pin, just short of the hex head. If necessary, hold the rubber sleeve, and turn the guide pin out of it, or get a fingernail between the two to let the air in.

Once you do, you should get this:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2331.jpg

The grease that's on there should be nice and clean - if it isn't, you've got bigger issues - probably a torn sleeve.

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2333.jpg

Clean him off, like so:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2334.jpg

Grease them lightly with some high-temp disc brake wheel-bearing grease, and then re-insert them into the rubber sleeves. It's best to pull the outer lip of the sleeve out if necessary, and make sure the mouth is open uniformly - i.e. make sure one edge isn't rolled in on itself. Then guide the guide pin back into its sleeve.

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2335.jpg

Note how much further out the upper one is (serviced), compared to the lower one (not serviced) in this picture:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o73/itllgrowback/Projects/BrakePads/IMG_2336.jpg

I suspect you want to trap as much air in there as possible to provide the best action - so just twist the freshly greased guide pin into the sleeve at its outermost position.

Happy stopping!

[MattRobertson]

This thread has been copied into the LXForums Knowledge Base. This one is closed at Junior's request so if you want to discuss any further head over here:

http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=101366