Cam/Head Install Library thread

[PaCharger]

Well well well - MAJOR kudos to Jeff F. aka PopEyes's Hemi
He really went above and beyond the call of duty (not bad for an old guy from the coast guard :) )
He has culled through the depths of this thread, shared information, and beyond to put together a great document.
We've split it and posted it to google documents and it is consumable by the entire LX Community now.
Please take care to read through the content, it is entirely usable at your own RISK.
Updates and comments to updates can be sent to PopEye or myself and we'll edit as time permits.
Hope this continues to help others looking to educate, install, understand or whatever other purpose you use the content for.

Cam Heads Headers Install Part 1 (http://2093824086031821579-a-1802744773732722657-s-sites.googlegroups.com/site/carstuffsite/Home/Cam-Heads-HeadersInstallPart-1.pdf?attredirects=0&auth=ANoY7coPoIq6h1u8SudP5eOQonohQiYvF5YlBxodAumrq zynyfmENMN5y4L7SgJkgF-zGYS3o0H2byCSvw_bHbQ1gxEVZ1Sdh4nrjkiKnY7yuOa4rCXso BLaQwX8rthjfC6umM7bB08kPWWHm0n6KLabKAN3M-LSjYvrvQ8j_y6VXDbAxSShLXCK4gVn_W0XNChfKEFnfn0gzBjC ic4DoJjRVuR5TgRPTI_j529cFwoZZsPLoOxnNic%3D)

Cam Heads Headers Install Part 2 (http://2093824086031821579-a-1802744773732722657-s-sites.googlegroups.com/site/carstuffsite/Home/Cam-Heads-HeadersInstallPart-2.pdf?attredirects=0&auth=ANoY7cpysDX5G57mHtO_DSZvUaMgpUXIob_EQfVU9n3IG QHmpEp1DsQhP64PsvpfGwvEyHw0m8pwRCmSO8bw1Ucz6zeAHik G5ZKYEH5X-E54IEn27W40CbrxnnnaJI7r-foRAyd1w07VLZrE8_v-wsryO-BfNQs996CtnYZqethc_YM_stsTcBQuxrgDejImkCFWTtjqjMLZ JSa0UUwTVhEbwjqGJ0cObY2LadQULQBsyZNemrCfngI%3D)



Well, I'll start this and edit as necessary. As I've searched, researched, and searched some more, I've read a ton of great informative threads on cam/head installs.

For those making search your friend you quickly realize titles make it tough to get all the great resources....so....here it is, an attempt to put all the forum brainpower, pics and information in one in easy to find place.

Post any other threads and I'll gladly add them.

thanks,

PaCharger

Really Fast Cars with New Internals
El Cobra (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=86904)
65standard (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=53801)
RT Addiction (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=82335)
Hemiwagn (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=79219)
1Fastsedans (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=86546&highlight=swap)
blk6.1 (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=88896)
Bipto's (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=72038)
Pics of Bipto's (http://bipto.smugmug.com/gallery/2513675/2/132019079#132013560)
flybyu (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=56183)
Pics of Hemi31's (http://bipto.smugmug.com/gallery/2434820/1/127662306)
Pics of JonzMagnum's (http://bipto.smugmug.com/gallery/2513675/1/132007226)
Pics of BrilliantBlackHemi's (http://bipto.smugmug.com/gallery/2664331/1/140978865)
Pics of Bipto -more (http://bipto.smugmug.com/gallery/3091466/1/168903191)
nhdave's (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=84327)
Jaak (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=85848&page=2)
Big D (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=86802)
Trojan (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=69649&page=5)
BoiseHemi (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=74510&page=4)
Cam (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=57318)
GoDaddy (http://www.chargerforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29146)
PaCharger (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?p=1280039#post1280039)
InferAl (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=60344)
Precision Motorsports Install (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=103883)
Metgo & mtcraigco (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=103833)
Flanmans 407 (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=93926)
Token AWD (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=108472)
Slim & Boogie (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=108499)
Gary's mighty fine install (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=151510)
Gabes Install (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=157158)


V6 Installs

BritishNate V6 Install
(http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=138804)RWalshPhoto's 3.5 Inertia Install
(http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=141733)



Disassembly Video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zr68nsaSHSY)

Assembly Video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PKNpPY2CzME)

Supplies:

1) new oil and filter
2) antifreeze and distilled water (+ Zerex additive for certain 6.1s)
3) windshield washer fluid if you have a 300 with headlight squirters
4) motor assembly lube (can use motor oil too)
5) magnets for holding the lifters back - not needed if pulling heads too(we used Craftsman screw starters which were perfect, but pricey at $6 a piece x 16)
6) new crankshaft bolt
7) new cam bolt (can re-use the old one, but I figured since I was putting in a new cam, why not a new bolt too)

If doing head swap too, you'll also need:
1) Long head bolts or studs - (20)
2) Short head bolts or studs - (10)
3) Exhaust manifold/header bolts
4) Head gaskets (2)
5) Exhaust gaskets (2)
6) Intake manifold gaskets (2) - may be able to re-use the old ones, but they often tear.

TOOLS:
Full set of metric sockets (10mm - 15mm mostly)
Screwdrivers for clips, clamps, etc..
Torque wrench for proper specs
Coolant Pan
Oil Pan & Oil filter wrench
3/8" and 1/4" ratchets, with plenty of various extension lengths
5/8" swivel spark plug socket
Harmonic Balancer puller (can rent for free from auto parts stores)
Valve Spring Compressor (can rent for free from auto parts stores)
Plenty of Rags
Mechanics gloves

Parts and Part numbers
6.1L Head Gasket (2)- 5037 592AA
6.1L Intake Manifold Gasket (2) - 5037 503AA
6.1L Head to block bolt primary (20) - 6506 694AA
6.1L Head to block bolt secondary (10) - 6506 334AA
Crank bolt (1) - 6506 340AA
OEM 6.1L Header bolt (16) - 6503 131; Hex flange head M8x1 bolt


TORQUE CHART 5.7L ENGINE
DESCRIPTION N·m Ft. In.
Lbs. Lbs.
Block Pipe Plugs
(1/4 NPT)
20 — 177
(3/8 NPT) 27 — 240
Camshaft Sprocket—Bolt 122 90 —
Camshaft Tensioner Plate—Bolts 28 — 250
Timing Chain Case Cover—Bolts 28 — 250
Lifting Stud 55 40 —
Connecting Rod Cap—Bolts 21
plus 90° Turn
15
plus 90° Turn
—
Main Bearing Cap—Bolts
M-12
27
plus 90° Turn
— —
Crossbolts
M-8
28 — —
Cylinder Head—Bolts
M-12 Bolts
Step 1 34 25 —
Step 2 54 40 —
Step 3 Turn 90° Turn 90° —
M-8 Bolts —
Step 1 20 15 —
Step 2 34 25 —
Cylinder Head Cover—Bolts 8 — 70
Exhaust Manifold to Cylinder Head 25 — 220
Flexplate to crankshaft—Bolts 95 70 —
Flywheel to crankshaft—Bolts 75 55 —
Front Insulator—Through bolt/nut 95 70 —
Front Insulator to Block—Bolts 95 70 —
Generator—Mounting Bolt 55 40 —

9 - 1530 ENGINE - 5.7L SERVICE INFORMATION
LX

DESCRIPTION N·m Ft. In.
Intake Manifold—Bolts Refer to Procedure
Lifter Guide Holder 12 — 106
Oil Pan Bolts 12 - 105
Oil Dipstick Tube 12 — 105
Oil Pan—Drain Plug 27 20 —
Oil Pump—Attaching Bolts 28 — 250
Oil Pump Pickup Tube – Bolt and Nut 28 — 250
Rear Seal Retainer Attaching Bolts 15 — 132
Rear Insulator to Bracket— 68 50 —
Rear Insulator to Crossmember 41 30 —
Rear Insulator to Transmission— 68 50 —
Rear Insulator Bracket—Bolts 68 50 —
Rocker Arm—Bolts 22 (nm)— 195 (In.lbs)
Spark Plugs — — —
Thermostat Housing—Bolts 28 — 250
Throttle Body—Bolts 12 — 105
Vibration Damper—Bolt 176 129 —
Water Pump to Timing Chain 28 — 250
Case Cover—Bolts

also the downloadable Service Manual (courtesy of Factory D): http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=24486

[1fastsedan]

Here's my write-up. Its for a 6.1 cam swap, but has a lot of the steps needed to do heads and cam.
http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=86546&highlight=swap

[PaCharger]

added, thanks!

[04hemipwr]

http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=88896

[PaCharger]

keep 'em coming. Almost pm'd you and erik to find the rest......figure it's good late night winter reading anyhow. Thanks eric

[mhigham]

thanks guys...subscribed....

Mike

[bipto]

This thread is a good idea... :thumbs_u:

HERE (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=72038) is the story of the very first 6.1 FRI Tomahawk prototype install...

And HERE (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=72131) is a thread with some video taken about 500 miles later...

It's hard to believe I've got over 10k miles on this combo now - I've been grinning for every single one... :wink:

[PaCharger]

lmao, thanks bipto..i also linked to your pics, hope you don't mind. funny, when you posted I was already reading your threads and realized I didn't have your's - the original!

[Hemi31]

I'd love to post mine but Bipto has it all........I was too busy to take pics;)

[PaCharger]

I'd love to post mine but Bipto has it all........I was too busy to take pics;)

Was that the 6.5hr install...insane fast!
Still scouring here and CF to see what I can find.

[bipto]

lmao, thanks bipto..i also linked to your pics, hope you don't mind. funny, when you posted I was already reading your threads and realized I didn't have your's - the original!
Of course I don't mind! :wink:

[bipto]

I'd love to post mine but Bipto has it all........I was too busy to take pics;)
LOL - what you were doing was far more important! Gotcha covered, my friend... :wink:

Hemi31's install pics (http://bipto.smugmug.com/gallery/2434820/1/127662306)...

also...

JonzMagnum (http://bipto.smugmug.com/gallery/2513675/1/132007226)
BrilliantBlackHemi (http://bipto.smugmug.com/gallery/2664331/1/140978865)
Bipto (http://bipto.smugmug.com/gallery/3091466/1/168903191)

[nhdave]

And mine (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=84327). I ended up having to take my own as the photographer I brought along ended up wanting to get his hands dirty too. :wink:

[PaCharger]

thanks dave....anyone else know of someone I should be looking for? A thread from way back two months ago :)

[Jaak]

Not a howto, just an experience....

http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=85848

[PaCharger]

Thanks Jaak.....another one added.
Good to see a few diff makes of heads, how about different cams? Any compcams out there?

[bipto]

Thanks Jaak.....another one added.
Good to see a few diff makes of heads, how about different cams? Any compcams out there?
moparman53, PowerWagon896 that I know of...

[LouZ]

this should go in the wiki/knowledge base

[PaCharger]

Big D added...keep finding more and more threads....but still think we have some more out there. Need to check for GoDaddy.... need some cams other than Fri...I think there are at least a few out there.

[Cam]

I'm a comp guy,have a few pic's, but nothing special. Whatta ya want big D

[Super T]

Looked at most of the links... one thing I'd still love for someone to put together is a list of tools. I guess most importantly, any specialty tools. Sockets and wrenches are a given, but what about more purpose-made tools... gear puller for the timing set? snap ring pliers for anything?

[PaCharger]

I'm a comp guy,have a few pic's, but nothing special. Whatta ya want big D

Just thought any write up alredy done I would link. Thanks Cam

Looked at most of the links... one thing I'd still love for someone to put together is a list of tools. I guess most importantly, any specialty tools. Sockets and wrenches are a given, but what about more purpose-made tools... gear puller for the timing set? snap ring pliers for anything?

I have another link not on here that has a download file for tools, prepurchased items check list, etc....
I'll go dig that one out too, good thought.

Any other insight, Tips that seem common, maybe I can drop into a subsection on the first post...a list of things like spring tools, harmonic balancer tools, tq specs, lubricant choices, etc...

I'm open to taking this thread where the masses want it to go.

[Cam]

Just thought any write up alredy done I would link. Thanks Cam

Well mine was mostly about the engine swap, and most of the thread is nothing but BS banter anyhow. But if ya want it, here's the link.


http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=57318

[PaCharger]

added cam, thanks. Plenty of good resource reading in all these threads...

[Ozzie]

Great thread, Pacharger! Kudos to you! :thumbs_u:

[PaCharger]

GoDaddy added - First 268 in the list I believe.
I may go back and add the specific cam and/or heads and/or headers to the install.

Can't wait to get mine done....
Come on FRI - send me the shipping info so I know it's on its way!!!

Thanks Ozzie, enjoy! :)

[JonzMgnm]

moparman53, PowerWagon896 that I know of...

You're right about Kevin's cam, Bill....but Dan's is a Crane 216.:wink:

[PaCharger]

I couldn't find either of their posts of cam installs. I only looked for a short while...but alas..no success.

[bipto]

You're right about Kevin's cam, Bill....but Dan's is a Crane 216.:wink:
Ah, Crane... Comp - they're both 'C' words. I was close... :wink:

[Super T]

Just thought any write up alredy done I would link. Thanks Cam



I have another link not on here that has a download file for tools, prepurchased items check list, etc....
I'll go dig that one out too, good thought.

Any other insight, Tips that seem common, maybe I can drop into a subsection on the first post...a list of things like spring tools, harmonic balancer tools, tq specs, lubricant choices, etc...

I'm open to taking this thread where the masses want it to go.

Awesome. Yeah, I'd love to see that list... 'cuz I might need to start shopping...

[1fastsedan]

The only special tool that I needed was the balancer puller and it wasn't that special, it just wasn't something that I owned.

Parts list:
First off here is a list of supplies that you’ll need:
1) new oil and filter
2) antifreeze and distilled water (+ Zerex additive for certain 6.1s)
3) windshield washer fluid if you have a 300 with headlight squirters
4) motor assembly lube (can use motor oil too)
5) magnets for holding the lifters back - not needed if pulling heads too(we used Craftsman screw starters which were perfect, but pricey at $6 a piece x 16)
6) new crankshaft bolt
7) new cam bolt (can re-use the old one, but I figured since I was putting in a new cam, why not a new bolt too)

If doing head swap too, you'll also need:
1) Long head bolts or studs - (10)
2) Short head bolts or studs - (10)
3) Exhaust manifold/header bolts
4) Head gaskets (2)
5) Exhaust gaskets (2)
6) Intake manifold gaskets (2) - may be able to re-use the old ones, but they often tear.

[PaCharger]

Any other tips/tools, suggestions for how to get balancers on, springs off, etc...


mods, can we toss this in the KB? Might be a good spot to start from for anyone else looking to gain the experience.

DJ

[Big D]

This is the tool we used to get the push rods installed:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/shootingblanks/9.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/shootingblanks/8.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/shootingblanks/10.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/shootingblanks/11.jpg

I believe the tool used to get the springs off was the following miller tool part #:

Miller tool #9605A (This is the one that I used)
Miller 9065-3 (Miller valve spring tool)

Thread reference:

http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=75404

These tools can be purchased at:

http://www.miller.spx.com/

I dont have the part # to the harmonic balancer tool we used. I will have to look at it and post later.

[PaCharger]

I read one of BBH's push rods wasn't in the right place on the first install. I read Erik was going to get one of these tools. I must have had the heads off my 283 Chrysler motors a half dozen times, replaced push rods, rockers, rocker arm shafts etc....I can't ever remember having an issue with a push rod other than a tappet flipping on me and being unable to flip it back over (had to take the JUST torqued heads back off - grrrr).

What's the issue with these push rods that requires a specialty tool?

[STAGE 3 R/T]

i know this thread is gonna help me out!!!

[RobAGD]

Doug - you need to be a 4 handed slight of hand artist to getthem to stay where you want them as you get the bolts started and snugged in without dropping a push rod.

These lifters sit almost flat in the motor the push rods can drop out of the cup if your not carefull.

-R

[BrilliantBlackHemi]

I have since learned the proper way to do those intake rocker assemblies and pushrods. It's not that bad now that Erik taught me the secret.

[Charger4Life]

thanks dave....anyone else know of someone I should be looking for? A thread from way back two months ago :)

PA,

The first post under the parts needed for head change, you have (10) of the long header bolts, it needs to state (20). ;)

Also, PM madcharger. He did a complete walkthrough on cam install without pics though. I used it to do mine with no experience on these cars and It's still running... Thanks Nick!!!

[PaCharger]

Good info Rob...didn't realize these were sitting on such a flat surface, explains the issue.

BBH - so what's the "secret"

Charger4Life - good catch, I simply copied and pasted someone's info...i'll edit you are correct. Do you have a write up from MadCharger?

Another experienced member just completed a complete write up....maybe we'll see that linked on the first page as well.

Keep the tips coming guys. Any other links to other builds that I'm missing? PM me or post them here.

DJ

[Cam]

The trick is to just take your time tightening down the rocker shaft and work the push rods into place. Slow and easy. There is no special secrets here.

[Charger4Life]

Charger4Life - good catch, I simply copied and pasted someone's info...i'll edit you are correct. Do you have a write up from MadCharger?

DJ

I'll ask him since its on a different forum. I dont know what the consensus is on doing that. Nick's a great guy so I dont think he would mind, just want to make sure.

[Jaak]

The trick is to just take your time tightening down the rocker shaft and work the push rods into place. Slow and easy. There is no special secrets here.

Worked fine for me... Pay attention to the ones that will be held, first, (due to being up on a cam lobe) then as you work things down you can take care of the others.

[04hemipwr]

this tool works great!

88 bucks i think it makes it go alot faster with it

[Charger4Life]

Below walkthrough compliments to MADCHARGER:


Sorry I don't have pics to go along with this, but since I did the work myself, I wasn't taking any picture breaks http://www.chargerforumz.com/images/smilies/4-dontknow.gif I think it's best not to show pics though, as the pics will make this job look much more intimidating than it really is. In the words of my wife, upon seeing my car disassembled: "Wow! That's ballsy"

The trick to this project, is having freezer bags that you can label for the hardware you remove for identification upon re-assembly. Any screws that can be put back where they were immediately after disassembly will make life much easier!

This past weekend was spent changing the cam on my 5.7. I didn't change the heads, as I already have Indy P&P heads on there. I have changed the hemi heads before though, so I'll add that to the list if anyone is interested.

This is obviously not a job for those that are nervous about changing their own oil - but it can certainly be done by the weekend warrior with some basic mechanical skills, with the normal hand tools - and just a few special tools.

The following is a list, in order of the process - along with the approximate time it will take to complete.

1. Remove front fascia - 30 minutes. This is very easy.
-Pop out the plastic rivets holding the fenders to the plastic wheelwell shroud, 3 per side. These will need to be replaced, so be sure to pick some new ones up at the dealer, or auto supply store.
-Put the front end up on ramps, or stands, and remove the bottom splash covers.
-Remove the plastic rivets holding the fascia to the frame under the hood.
-Remove one of the screws on the inside of the fender, behind the wheelwell shroud you freed earlier. The second screw, closer to the front, just needs to be loosened, as it's a shoulder screw that the fender slides onto.
-The hardest part, is removing the fender screw that is behind the turn signal lens. You'll need one of those 10mm ratchet box wrenches to get to it. Remove the other screw holding the fender that is easier to get to.
-Pull the fascia out, slowly, one side at a time. The turn signal lens will pop out, and you'll need to disconnect the wire connection. Repeat on the other side - then pull the fascia off and place on the front lawn (yes, you might be a redneck for a while).

2. Remove Fan assembly (10 minutes)
-Not much to this. Just a few bolts, and off it comes.

3. Remove Radiator (1 hour)
-You'll first need to dump as much coolant as possible. Remove the coolant reservoir cap, place a bucket under the car where the drain petcock is, at the bottom of the radiator on the passenger side. Open the petcock, and allow the coolant to drain from the radiator. Should be about a gallon.
-Close the petcock, and move your bucket under the lower radiator hose, and remove it. The clamps on these hoses are a PITA, and you'll need some channel locks to open them. Repeat for the upper radiator hose.
-Remove the lower frame brace that holds up the radiator (4 bolts)
-Remove the 2 upper radiator bolts that hold the brackets on top of the radiator.
-Do not disconnect any A/C lines. Simply drop the radiator down to rest at an angle on the floor, giving you access to the crank pulley.

4. Remove crank pulley (20 minutes)
-You'll need a small 3 jaw puller for this, along with a 13/16th impact socket and 1/2" drive breaker bar. I bought a large torque wrench for this, as it will need to be torqued upon reinstall anyway.
-Shove a socket driver into the pulley, to keep it from turning when you break the bolt loose (don't worry, you won't break anything). The breaker bar should be at least 2 feet long for proper leverage. Give it a good whack to break the bolt loose. Then use the puller to pull it off.

5. Remove timing case (1 hour)
-Remove Altenator. Disconnect electrical connections and move out of the way.
-Remove A/C compressor (just set aside, no need to pull from engine bay.
-Remove serpentine belt by moving the idler pulley counter clockwise.
-Remove idler pulley assembly
-Remove timing case bolts that bolt it to the block. No need to remove the water pump, although some of those bolts go all the way to the block, and need to be removed.
-Remove the bolts where the oil pan connects to the timing case.
-When you're certain you've removed all of the correct bolts, use a wrench to pry the cover off. It will seem like it's still bolted on at first, but thats just the gasket giving it a tight seal. Do not force it though. If it doesn't pop off with medium pressure, you probably missed a bolt that holds it on. Once it pops off, slide it out from up top, and set aside. You'll need your bucket below, as plenty of coolant will come out when you pop the seal. Some coolant will undoubtedly go down into the oil pan, so be sure to change your oil after everything is buttoned back up!
-Remove the bolts holding the oil pump on, and just slide the oil pump off the crankshaft, and set aside. Don't try to remove the whole thing from the oil pan.

6. Remove pushrods (3.5 hours)
-Remove valve covers. Believe it or not, this is the most difficult part of the whole job! The passenger side cover is very difficult to get to the lower bolts. You'll need a long 8mm socket, although not too long, as there is very little room to work back there. The one rear lower bolt took about an hour and a half by itself for me! Perhaps there's a better tool to do this?
-Once the valve covers are off, remove the rocker arms, loosening the bolts from the middle out, a little at a time to avoid stress on any one side of the arm. Once the rocker arms are removed, pull the pushrods out. Make note where the smaller rods go, and where the larger rods go.

7. Remove Camshaft (1 hour)
-Rotate the engine by hand, by screwing the crankshaft bolt back into the crankshaft. you want to line up the timing marks on the crankshaft gear, and camshaft gear. You'll want the crankshaft to have the timing mark at 6:00, and the keyway at 2:00. The cam timing mark should be at 12:00. Since you'll be tightening the crankshaft bolt while turning the engine, it's a bit tricky to break it loose again without your timing marks moving counter clockwise. You'll need to see how far it moves, then do it again, moving your timing marks that much farther past 12:00, so that when you loosen the bolt again, it will move back to 12:00.
-Remove the camshaft bolt.
-Pin back the timing chain, using a small allan key through the pin holes on the thrust plate. This will loosen the chain enough to pull the timing chain assembly off.
-Remove the camshaft thrust plate, exposing the camshaft.
-put a long bolt in the end of the camshaft, so you have some leverage to pull it out.
-Before pulling it out, rotate it by hand several times (very easy to do). This will move the lifters up into the plastic retainers, holding them in place when you remove the cam.
-Slowly rotate the cam as you pull it out. Try not to let it drop down and bang around on the way out. Nice and slow.....

8. Replace camshaft (10 minutes)
-Immediately after removing the old cam, be prepared to install the new cam. No lube necessary for a roller cam.
-Again, very slowly slide the new cam in, turning it as you place it in. Take your time, and try not to let it bang around on the way in. You do NOT want to knock any of the lifters down, otherwise you'll need to pull the heads to remove them!
-Install the thrust plate back on, and then the timing chain. Be sure to line up the timing chain marks again!

Bolt everything back up, in the opposite order it all came off. This is actually MUCH easier and faster than taking it apart! Be sure to refill your coolant, using the bleed valve to allow air to escape. Then change your oil!!
When you first start it up, it will clatter like mad, but that's perfectly normal, and will go away after about 5-10 minutes. Get yourself a beer, and pat yourself on the back for saving a grand on install charges. Total time by yourself should be about 11 or 12 hours. A helper should cut that time down a few hours.

Once again, if you've read this far - get a life!! http://www.chargerforumz.com/images/smilies/4-looney.gif http://www.chargerforumz.com/images/smilies/smile.gif

Don't be scared - it's easier than it sounds.....

[PaCharger]

Nice write up. Thanks for sharing.

[mexi]

If you dont have the tool for the push rods. i found a way to get them to stay after bending about 4. i used assembely lube to hold them in the cup worked well for me.

[PaCharger]

If you dont have the tool for the push rods. i found a way to get them to stay after bending about 4. i used assembely lube to hold them in the cup worked well for me.
Assembly lube is your friend. Can't tell you how many times I've relied on the holding power - especially when i was wrenching a part I couldn't see, couldn't afford to drop, etc.... Great suggestion here too.

[Hemi31]

Just a time saver......you don't need to remove the fans......there is enough room to drop the radiator with the fans on.

[Super T]

Below walkthrough compliments to MADCHARGER:


Sorry I don't have pics to go along with this, but since I did the work myself, I wasn't taking any picture breaks http://www.chargerforumz.com/images/smilies/4-dontknow.gif I think it's best not to show pics though, as the pics will make this job look much more intimidating than it really is. In the words of my wife, upon seeing my car disassembled: "Wow! That's ballsy"

The trick to this project, is having freezer bags that you can label for the hardware you remove for identification upon re-assembly. Any screws that can be put back where they were immediately after disassembly will make life much easier!

...................................http://www.chargerforumz.com/images/smilies/4-looney.gif http://www.chargerforumz.com/images/smilies/smile.gif

Don't be scared - it's easier than it sounds.....


Can somebody edit and repost this to be relevant for a simultaneous heads/cam swap??? I'm sure some parts won't apply...

[1fastsedan]

How about some part numbers for gaskets, head bolts, header bolts and some torque specs? I'll start researching, but maybe someone (Erik?) has them handy.

OK, per the parts manual:

6.1L Head Gasket (2)- 5037 592AA
6.1L Intake Manifold Gasket (2) - 5037 503AA
6.1L Exhaust Gaskets (1L and 1R) - 5038 098 and 5038 099
6.1L Head to block bolt primary (20) - 6506 694AA
6.1L Head to block bolt secondary (10) - 6506 334AA
6.1L ARP Head Stud Kit - http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ARP%2D244%2D4300&autoview=sku
Crank bolt (1) - 6506 340AA
OEM 6.1L Header bolt (16) - 6503 131; Hex flange head M8x1 bolt
Stage 8 Locking Header Blots - http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=STG%2D8916&autoview=sku

Breslin/Percy's High Performance locking header bolts - http://www.percyshp.com/
Part #20010 - (16) 8mm x 25mm, Black Anodized Finish - $64.99
Part #21010 - (16) 8mm x 25mm, Stainless Steel - $74.99

5.7L Hedman Header Exhaust Gaskets - http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HED%2D27490&N=700+4294886211+4294908110+4294908395+4294806411+ 4294895549+115&autoview=sku

From the service manual:
"Tighten the cylinder head bolts in three steps using
the sequence provided :
-Step 1— Snug tighten M12 cylinder head bolts,
in sequence, to 34 N·m (25 ft. lbs.) and M8 bolts
to 20 N·m (15 ft. lbs.) torque.
-Step 2— Tighten M12 cylinder head bolts, in
sequence, to 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.) and verify M8
bolts to 20 N·m (15 ft. lbs.) torque..
-Step 3— Turn M12 cylinder head bolts, in
sequence, 90 degrees and tighten M8 bolts to 34
N·m (25 ft. lbs.) torque."
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t225/1fastsedansrt8/head.jpg

ROCKER ARMS:
CAUTION: Ensure that retainers (2) and rocker arms (4) are not overlapped when torquing bolts.
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t225/1fastsedansrt8/Rockerwarning.jpg
CAUTION: Verify that pushrod is installed into rocker arm (4) and tappet correctly while installing rocker
shaft assembly. Recheck after rocker shaft has been torqued to specification.
LX ENGINE - 6.1L SERVICE INFORMATION 9 - 2507
CAUTION: The rocker shaft assemblies are not
interchangeable between intake and exhaust. The
intake rocker arms are marked with the letter “I”.
3. Install rocker shaft assemblies in the same order
as removed.
4. Tighten the rocker shaft bolts to 22 N·m (195 in.
lbs.) torque,using the sequence provided.
CAUTION: DO NOT rotate or crank the engine during
or immediately after rocker arm installation.
Allow the hydraulic roller tappets adequate time to
bleed down (about 5 minutes).
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t225/1fastsedansrt8/rockertorque.jpg

[Super T]

^^ Stellar info right there. What about header gaskets... anybody know if the OEM's work with aftermarket headers or of the aftermarket headers come with a new set or ???

[PaCharger]

Can somebody edit and repost this to be relevant for a simultaneous heads/cam swap??? I'm sure some parts won't apply...

Luke did a write up with pics for an english assignment and it includes the Heads being pulled as well. Hoping he'll chime in and we can get a link to the document on the first post as well.

I'll add the part numbers as well...thanks guys. Good info...keep it coming.

[1fastsedan]

^^ Stellar info right there. What about header gaskets... anybody know if the OEM's work with aftermarket headers or of the aftermarket headers come with a new set or ???

There wasn't a P/N for the OEM exhaust gasket in the parts manual! The pic was there, but no individual number. It originally must have only come with the headers or something. I'm sure somebody will chime in with the number.

[PaCharger]

I have OEM exhaust gaskets at home. Once I get back and can see the stamped numbers I'll be sure to add it. There are two diff types, one with the cardboard fiber material and one that is just metal...want to make sure I have the right numbers.

[Apache]

There wasn't a P/N for the OEM exhaust gasket in the parts manual! The pic was there, but no individual number. It originally must have only come with the headers or something. I'm sure somebody will chime in with the number.

Just looked at my stock header gasket (metal gasket), here is the part #'s

Right 53032098AD-C
Left 53032097AD-C

Hope this helps.

[RobAGD]

Ok a few things tool wise

Medium deep 8mm 10mm sockets
1/4 Wobble adapter

Torque Wrenches ( inch # and Ft # ) I think my issue was I had a gap between the 2 I have. Max on the In # was 250in # and the bigger wrench was a min of 30ft #'s.

Also if your up on miles it is a good time to install a new timing set.

-R

[BurntOrange]

pacharger props to you this is making great reading.

[Dantra]

^^ Stellar info right there. What about header gaskets... anybody know if the OEM's work with aftermarket headers or of the aftermarket headers come with a new set or ???

I've read that the metal OEM gaskets actually work better than the aftermarket gaskets...they don't burn out. Just be sure to use lockers. Wish I could remember whos thread it was on that I read that. Anybody?

[Cam]

I've read that the metal OEM gaskets actually work better than the aftermarket gaskets...they don't burn out. Just be sure to use lockers. Wish I could remember whos thread it was on that I read that. Anybody?

Well there are lockers and then there's this. :mrgreen:

http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=58542

[1fastsedan]

Well there are lockers and then there's this. :mrgreen:

http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=58542

Hey Cam,
Just to make this thread as user-friendly as possible. What you're saying is that OEM header bolts are prone to loosening up after installation, right.

So, either use:
1) Stage 8 locking header bolts or
2)OEM bolts with these washers Nord lock cam washer 8mm with outer diameter of 13.5 available at McMaster-Carr.

From McMaster-Carr
Washers
2 products match your selections

http://www.mcmaster.com/param/images/washers/91074a138a.gif
Shape Wedge Lock For Screw Size M8 System of Measurement Inch Inside Diameter Range .25" (1/4") to .349" (11/32") Inside Diameter .25" (1/4") to .349" (11/32") .34" Inside Diameter .34" Outside Diameter Range .4" (13/32") to .599" (19/32") Outside Diameter .4" (13/32") to .599" (19/32") .53" Outside Diameter .53" Application Locking Washer Specifications Met Not Rated

Material — Material comparison chart (http://javascript%3Cb%3E%3C/b%3E:popup%28%27/param/html/AboutWasherMaterials%27,600,600%29;) Material Type
Steel (http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/psearch.asp?FAM=washers&FT_138=157828&FT_931=64310&FT_104=4054&FT_294=64693&FT_518=52165&FT_147=60655&session=washers,138=157828,104=4054,294=64693,518= 52165;931=64310;147=60655)
Stainless Steel (http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/psearch.asp?FAM=washers&FT_138=157828&FT_931=64310&FT_104=4054&FT_294=64693&FT_518=52165&FT_147=60652&session=washers,138=157828,104=4054,294=64693,518= 52165;931=64310;147=60652)

Finish
Plain (http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/psearch.asp?FAM=washers&FT_138=157828&FT_931=64310&FT_104=4054&FT_294=64693&FT_518=52165&FT_137=60708&session=washers,138=157828,104=4054,294=64693,518= 52165;931=64310;137=60708)
Zinc-Plated (http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/psearch.asp?FAM=washers&FT_138=157828&FT_931=64310&FT_104=4054&FT_294=64693&FT_518=52165&FT_137=31621&session=washers,138=157828,104=4054,294=64693,518= 52165;931=64310;137=31621)

Minimum Thickness Range http://www.mcmaster.com/param/images/washers/vibethk.gif .08" (3/32") to .099" (7/64") (http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/psearch.asp?FAM=washers&FT_138=157828&FT_931=64310&FT_104=4054&FT_294=64693&FT_518=52165&FT_3721=164224&session=washers,138=157828,104=4054,294=64693,518= 52165;931=64310;3721=164224) | .1" (1/8") to .159" (9/64") (http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/psearch.asp?FAM=washers&FT_138=157828&FT_931=64310&FT_104=4054&FT_294=64693&FT_518=52165&FT_3721=164260&session=washers,138=157828,104=4054,294=64693,518= 52165;931=64310;3721=164260)
These 2 products match your selections
Material Type http://www.mcmaster.com/param/css/desc_arrow.gif Finish Minimum Thickness Steel Zinc-Plated .1" 91074A130 (http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/psearch.asp?FAM=washers&FT_138=157828&FT_931=64310&FT_104=4054&FT_294=64693&FT_518=52165&FT_147=60655&FT_137=31621&FT_3721=164260&FT_3551=157698&FT_2234=126537&ppe=2&session=washers,138=157828,104=4054,294=64693,518= 52165;931=64310;M;I) $9.27 per Pack of 25 Pair
Stainless Steel Plain .09" 91812A230 (http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/psearch.asp?FAM=washers&FT_138=157828&FT_931=64310&FT_104=4054&FT_294=64693&FT_518=52165&FT_147=60652&FT_137=60708&FT_3721=164224&FT_3551=155362&FT_2234=126535&ppe=2&session=washers,138=157828,104=4054,294=64693,518= 52165;931=64310;M;I) 10.54 per Pack of 10 Pair

[Cam]

I woudn't say prone. To be perfectly honest I think any bolt if properly designed for the application and installed correctly will work as per design. But I feel the design of header and collector flange construction (including HF cats) from some after market companies lend themselves to extreme expansion and contraction issues. And limit the ability of the securing method to maintain proper torque. So these washer do a great job of lets say........taking up the slack.

BTW guys, been using these things for thousands of miles now and have not had any problems with any type of leaks or loose bolts what so ever. Great product.

[5.7SublimeDaytona]

Since I have been using the oem header gasket (metal toward the head, fabric material toward the header) I have never had a problem with any leaks what so ever. I use regular header bolts and the normal lock washers. I have tried the after market gaskets and they all seem to leak pretty quickly, I used to have problems with the bolts loosening. Not anymore.

[PaCharger]

Ok a few things tool wise

Medium deep 8mm 10mm sockets
1/4 Wobble adapter

Torque Wrenches ( inch # and Ft # ) I think my issue was I had a gap between the 2 I have. Max on the In # was 250in # and the bigger wrench was a min of 30ft #'s.

Also if your up on miles it is a good time to install a new timing set.

-R

having both tq wrenches is a must.
Assembly lube
Anti Sieze
oil can
15mm socket and speedwrench
12mm same, plus deep socket
10mm same, plus deep socket
8mm same, plust deep socket
vice grips are handy for the hose clamps
mechanics gloves
some brake cleaner for cleaning gasketed areas
C clamp compressor if you are taking the heads off
1 or 2 drop lights, amazing how many times you need light
universal sockets for flexing into tight places
plenty of extensions
pad of paper and pencil for marking the various bolt locations on the timing cover

[Super T]

" C clamp compressor if you are taking the heads off "

Discuss....

[Hemi31]

" C clamp compressor if you are taking the heads off "

Discuss....valve spring compressor...
http://www.toolrage.com/prodView.asp?idproduct=6695

[Jaak]

Makes sense, if you're taking the heads apart. But not needed if you're only swapping them.

[PaCharger]

" C clamp compressor if you are taking the heads off "

Discuss....

Correct, good clarification. Oops, i wrote that. The c clamp compressor is pretty easy to use, but clamps to the bottom of the heads, so they have to be off to use it.
My local pepboys had a nice rental model, although my autozone did not. This was a lifesaver, took me about 1 hr to swap all the springs with another set of hands to catch the retainers. I could do it in 30 minutes if I did it again tomorrow.

[STAGE 3 R/T]

make sure you wear mechanics gloves!
If I can do the cam, heads and header install ANYONE can do it!

[PaCharger]

After you've tightened down the rockerarms with the PushRods surely in place - hand crank the motor to ensure ALL 16 springs depress and that the rockers really are down and the pushrods are seated in the lifters and not on the edge.

Otherwise, you may find a Vacuum leak code upon starting, and have to pull valve covers back off to check AGAIN.

BTW - Erik, post those great pics of the timing chain in here.

[Hemi31]

BTW - Erik, post those great pics of the timing chain in here.Those were Robs pics you want.

[RobAGD]

Doug you mean these :)

http://www.robagd.com/cars/robs/heads/Timing-Set1.jpg

http://www.robagd.com/cars/robs/heads/Timing-Set2.jpg

Oi

-R

[PaCharger]

Those are the pics...thanks Rob. Purty!

[PaCharger]

I know there are more recent installs. Time to write em up boys, lessons learned, tools used, etc...c'mon!

[FrankRacingInc]

Alot of our FRI Custoemr have been prepariing for the 08 race season. We should have plenty of installation photos coming down the pipline within the next few weeks...We have a M&G this weekend for a cam install!

[TBYDaytona40]

I would like to add two tools that really help. First is what I call the Baby 8. Take an 8mm deep socket, and cut about 3/8 of an inch off the end. If will let you get onto the studs on the valve covers which require a deep, and let it sneak in there in the tight quarters near the back end of the engine compartment. Second is a Dremel. Having one around can help in ways you wont imagine (Such as grinding your cam when it isn't properly ground at the factory haha).

[PaCharger]

great write up resource from Hawaii!

TORQUE CHART 5.7L ENGINE
DESCRIPTION N·m Ft. In.
Lbs. Lbs.
Block Pipe Plugs
(1/4 NPT)
20 — 177
(3/8 NPT) 27 — 240
Camshaft Sprocket—Bolt 122 90 —
Camshaft Tensioner Plate—Bolts 28 — 250
Timing Chain Case Cover—Bolts 28 — 250
Lifting Stud 55 40 —
Connecting Rod Cap—Bolts 21
plus 90° Turn
15
plus 90° Turn
—
Main Bearing Cap—Bolts
M-12
27
plus 90° Turn
— —
Crossbolts
M-8
28 — —
Cylinder Head—Bolts
M-12 Bolts
Step 1 34 25 —
Step 2 54 40 —
Step 3 Turn 90° Turn 90° —
M-8 Bolts —
Step 1 20 15 —
Step 2 34 25 —
Cylinder Head Cover—Bolts 8 — 70
Exhaust Manifold to Cylinder Head 25 — 220
Flexplate to crankshaft—Bolts 95 70 —
Flywheel to crankshaft—Bolts 75 55 —
Front Insulator—Through bolt/nut 95 70 —
Front Insulator to Block—Bolts 95 70 —
Generator—Mounting Bolt 55 40 —

9 - 1530 ENGINE - 5.7L SERVICE INFORMATION
LX

DESCRIPTION N·m Ft. In.
Intake Manifold—Bolts Refer to Procedure
Lifter Guide Holder 12 — 106
Oil Pan Bolts 12 - 105
Oil Dipstick Tube 12 — 105
Oil Pan—Drain Plug 27 20 —
Oil Pump—Attaching Bolts 28 — 250
Oil Pump Pickup Tube – Bolt and Nut 28 — 250
Rear Seal Retainer Attaching Bolts 15 — 132
Rear Insulator to Bracket— 68 50 —
Rear Insulator to Crossmember 41 30 —
Rear Insulator to Transmission— 68 50 —
Rear Insulator Bracket—Bolts 68 50 —
Rocker Arm—Bolts 22 (nm)— 195 (In.lbs)
Spark Plugs — — —
Thermostat Housing—Bolts 28 — 250
Throttle Body—Bolts 12 — 105
Vibration Damper—Bolt 176 129 —
Water Pump to Timing Chain 28 — 250
Case Cover—Bolts

also the downloadable Service Manual (courtesy of Factory D): http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=24486

[PaCharger]

New content added to first post.
Any new write ups out there guys?

Must be..i hear FRI, PPP, Inertia, HHP, etc...are all buying bigger homes, faster cars, looser women - just from our need for speed. :)

PM me with any new adds - DJ

[MoPOWeR-349]

Oh man, this thread is killing me. I wanna run out and buy a cam and heads right now. I have some $$$ burning a hole in my pocket, wish I had the time & guts to tackle this myself.

Seriously, are there any lx member who would like a side job if I choose to pull the trigger on this upgrade? I live in the greater Sacramento area by Beale AFB if your interested.

[PaCharger]

Couple guys, case of beer, 2 days to accomplish (safe) - get started. :)

[Big D]

In a few weeks I will be tearing my block down again to short block status.

I will be taking picks of step by step with my Nikon D50 to add to this library.

Hope it will assist fellow members in their ambition to accomplish this.

[Big D]

SPX Miller Specialty Tools

Telephone #: (800) 801-5420

Name Part # Price

Puller, 8454, $165, http://millerspecialtools.spx.com/Detail.aspx?id=529&gid=7
Crankshaft Damper Remover Insert, 8513-A, $ 16, http://millerspecialtools.spx.com/Detail.aspx?id=564&gid=7
Crankshaft Damper Installer, 8512-A, $ 59, http://millerspecialtools.spx.com/Detail.aspx?id=563&gid=7
Valve Spring Compresser, 9065, $255, http://millerspecialtools.spx.com/Detail.aspx?id=764&gid=7
Pushrod Retaining Plate, 9070, $ 88, http://millerspecialtools.spx.com/Detail.aspx?id=766&gid=7

[PaCharger]

Good adds, Big D.

Just added a few more install threads on the first post...gonna be some wicked fast spring ET's out there.

:)

[PaCharger]

couple of videos of rob and erik busting roberts car apart and putting it back together again, enjoy...

[1fastsedan]

TIP: CLEAN YOUR CAI FILTER! while doing the swap. We forgot to clean mine and couldn't figure out why the car wasn't running as hard as expected. Data logging showed she was starving for air. Cleaned the CAI and she is running hard now!

[blk6.1]

TIP: CLEAN YOUR CAI FILTER! while doing the swap. We forgot to clean mine and couldn't figure out why the car wasn't running as hard as expected. Data logging showed she was starving for air. Cleaned the CAI and she is running hard now!

Adam, How many miles/time did you have on the filter before you cleaned it!

Oh, Got any new dyno results or did I miss a post?

John

[1fastsedan]

Adam, How many miles/time did you have on the filter before you cleaned it!

Oh, Got any new dyno results or did I miss a post?

John

Should be going on the dyno tomorrow afternoon sometime. Nothing new to report, still working on tuning.

[Big D]

Correct Serpentine Belt Orientation

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/shootingblanks/accesorydrive.jpg

[Big D]

Figured the above post might be important due to are cars dont have a belt orientation sticker on the car. I had to look it up to figure out how the belt went back on and figured I would save you guy/gals some time.

[PaCharger]

Token's install added :thumbs_u:

Mod's can we make this a sticky?

[PaCharger]

slim & boggie added to first post.

http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=108499

[FrankRacingInc]

Nice... How many cars got FRI'd this weekend, 6?

[Hemi31]

This thread needs to be bumped.

[metgo]

I'm surpised this one was never made a sticky.

[BuilderBill]

This thread needs to be bumped.
Eric,
Why is it necessary to remove the intake when doing ONLY a cam swap?
Is it due to the heater hose pipe needing to be unbolted from under the intake to allow for removal of the front water pump housing?
Bill

[Hemi31]

It's not Bill.The front cover can be removed without pulling the intake.I have pulled it on 5.7's cause it makes it easier to pull the valve covers.

[BuilderBill]

It's not Bill.The front cover can be removed without pulling the intake.I have pulled it on 5.7's cause it makes it easier to pull the valve covers.
Hmmm,
The heater hose pipe is bolted under the intake and also at the back of the cylinder head.
I found it easier to pull the intake and remove the bolt located under the center of the intake manifold. I could not remove the front water pump cover with the pipe inserted into it.
Do you wiggle the water pump cover or something???

Oh....have you ever changed valve springs on this engine while the heads were on the vehicle?
Bill

[Hemi31]

Hmmm,
The heater hose pipe is bolted under the intake and also at the back of the cylinder head.
I found it easier to pull the intake and remove the bolt located under the center of the intake manifold. I could not remove the front water pump cover with the pipe inserted into it.
Do you wiggle the water pump cover or something???

Oh....have you ever changed valve springs on this engine while the heads were on the vehicle?
BillI can pull the pipe up enough to slide the water pump out,then I have plenty of room to remove the front cover.

As far as the springs....yes.....it sucks.....and I will be doing a set like that next weekend to change the seals:doh:

[wickedchargerrt]

i got a note for this thread .


DONT TOUCH THE MDS SOLENOIDS. :doh:

Looked like common sense to me that i would need to remove them. I was wrong, and now i'm down one. Here lots of other people have done the same.

[nottahemi]

Wow great thread. Will be doing an cam, heads and some headers later on this month. DUE TO EFFIN GSM effin my motor went KABOOM.

[gculver]

Hmmm,
The heater hose pipe is bolted under the intake and also at the back of the cylinder head.
I found it easier to pull the intake and remove the bolt located under the center of the intake manifold. I could not remove the front water pump cover with the pipe inserted into it.
Do you wiggle the water pump cover or something???

Oh....have you ever changed valve springs on this engine while the heads were on the vehicle?
Bill

Ah Hah, Snooping in the H/C thread..Maybe a larger cam for that 7.0L and replace those Indy springs..Buddy I got my eye on you! LOL! :mrgreen:

GC

[1fastsedan]

I'm surpised this one was never made a sticky.
Its in the Knowledge Base now.

[PaCharger]

Woza - this made the Knowledge base - Guess I should have kept up better with this one.

Boating season is winding down - minus the Hurricane coming up the coast I'm preparing for and staying on the boat during.

about 5 more weeks till race season for me.

If you have any links for add'l write ups - please post them here so I don't have to do endless searches. I'll add them to the first post.

Happy Drag season soon!!!

[PaCharger]

Bump - any links or threads with installs/pics, etc... please PM me.
Tis' the season for cracking motors and adding HP :mrgreen:

[Jaak]

Wow great thread. Will be doing an cam, heads and some headers later on this month. DUE TO EFFIN GSM effin my motor went KABOOM.

Wow! That's a first!

J/K Ugly place to be, hope the replacement makes you smile long time.

[PaCharger]

First v6 install added!

[PaCharger]

RWalsh's Intertia write up added!

[04hemipwr]

man this is a great thread doug!

nice work

[PaCharger]

Any notable new installs? C'mon gang....we need fresh stories :)

[PaCharger]

Edits and adds made, thanks for the continued contribution :)

[Hemi31]

Any notable new installs? C'mon gang....we need fresh stories :)Soon buddy,soon:mrgreen:

[SublimeTime]

Any notable new installs? C'mon gang....we need fresh stories :)

Not sure if it qualifies as "notable" or not but this Saturday Erik will be working his magic on my car.

G

[bipto]

Not sure if it qualifies as "notable" or not but this Saturday Erik will be working his magic on my Limer.

G
That sounds obscene, dude... :roll:

[Hemi31]

That sounds obscene, dude... :roll:No ****....I think the price just doubled.

[SublimeTime]

Edited the post.

[rjsjea]

Good thread....:beerchug:

[moparmike610]

This thread helped with my install!! I'll have my write up done soon!!

mike

[AWD_Gabe]

Any notable new installs? C'mon gang....we need fresh stories :)

Soon buddy,soon:mrgreen:

:rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock:

[PaCharger]

lol...okay, lots of talk, no write ups...c'mon you newbie install wankers....get some write ups done and let's keep this library building!

[SublimeTime]

lol...okay, lots of talk, no write ups...c'mon you newbie install wankers....get some write ups done and let's keep this library building!

Hey Doug,

How are ya? Not much of a write up but a post about my install no less. I learned a bunch from Erik that day. Thanks for starting a great post.

Gary

FRI S/S heads & Sparrow install (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=151510)

[rander]

FRI hasn't come out with a new cam yet lol!

[PaCharger]

added yours Gary....can't wait to see the timeslips in the next few weeks!!

[SublimeTime]

added yours Gary....can't wait to see the timeslips in the next few weeks!!


Thanks Doug. Gettin' tuned next weekend and then we'll be at the track the following weekend.

G

[Junior]

Best way to burp the coolant system after swapping heads? Anybody got any tricks?

I brought it to a boil and got a bunch of air out that way, but now it's not burping anymore, and it'll reach 280* without doing much of anything.

Also, as a sidenote, turning the heat on full blast only blows ambient temp air out of the vents. Not sure what that means.

[dudeiwin86]

Best way to burp the coolant system after swapping heads? Anybody got any tricks?

I brought it to a boil and got a bunch of air out that way, but now it's not burping anymore, and it'll reach 280* without doing much of anything.

Also, as a sidenote, turning the heat on full blast only blows ambient temp air out of the vents. Not sure what that means.

sounds like your thermostat isnt opening.

the thermostat has to open to let coolant into the the engine, and i assume after it goes thru the engine, it goes into the the heating coil..

not sure on that, but if its getting way hot, and the heating coil isnt getting hot coolant either.... then something is up in regards to the coolant not moving AT ALL

did you check the thermo?

[fargo59]

Best way to burp the coolant system after swapping heads? Anybody got any tricks?

I brought it to a boil and got a bunch of air out that way, but now it's not burping anymore, and it'll reach 280* without doing much of anything.

Also, as a sidenote, turning the heat on full blast only blows ambient temp air out of the vents. Not sure what that means.

are you getting air or coolant out of the water pump bleed? maybe try using a pressure tester on the system and pulling a heater core hose. keep the hose clamped and let the air bleed out of the heater core.

just throwing ideas out.

[PaCharger]

are you getting air or coolant out of the water pump bleed? maybe try using a pressure tester on the system and pulling a heater core hose. keep the hose clamped and let the air bleed out of the heater core.

just throwing ideas out.

I actually did mine cold - opened the bleeder on the water pump, then opened the overflow tank, cupped my hands around the top and blew (honest...) Heard it bubble, then coolant started out the bleeder. Closed it back up and voila.

[Junior]

OK, thanks fellas - I actually never cracked the bleeder at all. Step one, right?

My t-stat is a MotoRad 170*, which should be a fail-safe type (fails open, not closed), so theoretically it shoud still be passing through. I'm thinking trapped air, but I wasn't sure if there was a better way.

So I'll give the bleeder a go, and maybe give the overflow a blow. ;)

[fargo59]

OK, thanks fellas - I actually never cracked the bleeder at all. Step one, right?

So I'll give that a go, and maybe a blow. ;)

reserved for whitty comment after junior is done fixing his car.
:sosayweall:

[Junior]

LOL. Yeah, well I'll say this too: It ran pretty well on six cylinders! When I got two ignition coil codes (H and F), and a random misfire code, I looked closer, and one of the coil connectors was off. D'oh! And then it ran well again, but still had the one code, so we looked again, and there was another... so yeah, it runs even better when it's getting spark to all eight cylinders! :mrgreen:

[Junior]

OK, so I'm in kind of a hurry and I guess I didn't do my homework... what's the best way to use that bleeder? I'm assuming it's the plug just above and to the centerline of the t-stat. Do I heat it up and then open it? I ran it with it open for a while, and steam started coming out, but no fluid... The FSM isn't much help in this case, or I looked for the wrong thing...

[fargo59]

open the bleeder with the engine cold. pressurize the system until coolant comes out. put the bleeder in. run the system, pull the bleeder out again (briefly) to verify that air is purged. basically, if there is coolant there, then the thermostat is submerged in coolant. its a 1/4" hex bit for the bleeder if i remember correctly.

[Junior]

Thanks bud. I think she's good. She was hot, so I couldn't do it the right way (without waiting until bedtime), so I ended up pouring distilled water in through the bleeder hole until it acted full, and then sealing that up and running it with the cap cracked. She settled down in the end to 183* and so I tok her out for a couple mile checkout.

Seems good now, but I'll crack the cap in the morning and see if any more want to vent.

Can a redneck do it right without a means of pressurizing the system? I just now heard that you can drive it around with the cap on but vented and clear it that way?

Anyway, thanks for the quick help fellas.

[fargo59]

you dont need the pressure tester. like doug mentioned, you could use your mouth to pressurize the system (as funny as it sounds) the idea is that the air bubble will not want to move without being forced out. that means the fluid generally has to be pushed. either by high pressure of the water pump (road test with the cap loose), or by pressuizing the air in the bottle. i prefer to do it while the car is stationary. its much easier to control the scenario when you are not worrying about navigating traffic.

[Popeye's Hemi]

I just finished my 3rd cam swap and burping the coolant system is a PITA. I like Doug's solution and will put that tip into the Ole Brain Bucket. Out of curiosity what would be the max temp you would let the car get to before shutting her down to cool off.

[dudeiwin86]

i dont think that video link in your sig is big enough popeye, think you could enlarge it some? :)

[Hemi31]

I just finished my 3rd cam swap and burping the coolant system is a PITA. I like Doug's solution and will put that tip into the Ole Brain Bucket. Out of curiosity what would be the max temp you would let the car get to before shutting her down to cool off.Do not go over 230*......personally I don't like letting them go over 220*........over 245* you risk really,really bad things happening........like guides and seats falling out of the heads.

[Hemi31]

Thanks bud. I think she's good. She was hot, so I couldn't do it the right way (without waiting until bedtime), so I ended up pouring distilled water in through the bleeder hole until it acted full, and then sealing that up and running it with the cap cracked. She settled down in the end to 183* and so I tok her out for a couple mile checkout.

Seems good now, but I'll crack the cap in the morning and see if any more want to vent.

Can a redneck do it right without a means of pressurizing the system? I just now heard that you can drive it around with the cap on but vented and clear it that way?

Anyway, thanks for the quick help fellas.That bleeder is seixed in there sometimes.......I like to pull the upper radiator hose till I see coolant coming up the water neck,reinstall the hose and then like Doug said blow into the tank.....put a clean rag over the opening......it's a poor mans pressure bleeder basically....as you blow into it and create pressure you can hear the air move....when you stop and release the pressure you will see the bubbles come up and the level in the tank drop...when you have 2 1/2 gallons in the system and the coolant is around the max line your good to go.

[Popeye's Hemi]

i dont think that video link in your sig is big enough popeye, think you could enlarge it some? :)

Dude, I was really just learning how to use the Video part of that website and I agree with you in that it is kinda in your face sized pic!!! I'll be getting it out of there soon along with the My slip. Just looking for some feedback on lunching my brick at the track!

[Junior]

That bleeder is seixed in there sometimes.......I like to pull the upper radiator hose till I see coolant coming up the water neck,reinstall the hose and then like Doug said blow into the tank.....put a clean rag over the opening......it's a poor mans pressure bleeder basically....as you blow into it and create pressure you can hear the air move....when you stop and release the pressure you will see the bubbles come up and the level in the tank drop...when you have 2 1/2 gallons in the system and the coolant is around the max line your good to go.

Thanks Erik.

It was weird, let me see if I can recap it accurately from memory:

We burped it a lot when we first fired it up (just running it with the cap cracked), and then it stopped burping and seemed to settle down. Then I drove it home (5 miles or so) with the cap fully engaged. The temp climbed higher than I should have let it (280*) but only for the last mile from home. When I was on my street, the temp stopped registering (32*), and it gave me a lightning bolt. That had me concerned.

Then I let it sit and cool down and once it had, I tried to burp it again. It didn't seem to gurgle at all, and the temp climbed high again.

Later, after letting it cool down again, and after posting here, I cracked the bleeder and it hissed once. Then it had some pressure coming out, but not much. The overflow tank didn't drop at all. So I decided to fill the cavity manually, through the bleeder opening. It took over a gallon.

When I capped that off and started it up again, with the overflow cap off, it went NUTS! Splashing coolant all out of the reservoir. I should have put the cap back on but let it vent. I let it do that for a few minutes and lost maybe a gallon out of the reservoir. When I shut it off, the level in the reservoir dropped a lot. So I topped that off, fired it up, and it went to 183* and stayed there.

Drove it a couple miles and it got no hotter than 185*.

That's where I left it last night. When I came out this morning, I needed to add another quart or more to the reservoir, and did so, and it seems good now. I think I'll crack the bleeder once more and blow in the reservoir to make sure.

[Hemi31]

Don't bother she's done.When she cooled and dropped the last quart it did it's final burp.The biggest thing is making sure the system takes the full 2.5 gallons if you drain the block from the plugs.If you don't drain the block from the plugs then you need to make sure you replace what you took out......if you have leftovers your gonna overheat the motor.

[Popeye's Hemi]

Don't bother she's done.When she cooled and dropped the last quart it did it's final burp.The biggest thing is making sure the system takes the full 2.5 gallons if you drain the block from the plugs.If you don't drain the block from the plugs then you need to make sure you replace what you took out......if you have leftovers your gonna overheat the motor.

Eric how difficult is it to pull the block drains and are they located just under the exhaust manifolds on both sides.

[Hemi31]

Not difficult at all and it saves alot of time on the back side of the job cleaning bolt holes.

[Popeye's Hemi]

Not difficult at all and it saves alot of time on the back side of the job cleaning bolt holes.

When you say cleaning bolt holes just what are you referring to?

[PaCharger]

When you say cleaning bolt holes just what are you referring to?

If you don't drain the block, just drop the radiator, then when you dissassemble the motor you end up with coolant in a few places like bolt holes, cylinders, etc....

Not awul, just requires some vaccumming, wiping, etc....

Drain the block and voila, one less clean up in aisle 9

[fargo59]

you dont want fluid in the blind holes of the head bolt holes in the block. they will give a false torque reading if they hydrostatically stop the bolt.

[Popeye's Hemi]

If you don't drain the block, just drop the radiator, then when you dissassemble the motor you end up with coolant in a few places like bolt holes, cylinders, etc....

Not awul, just requires some vaccumming, wiping, etc....

Drain the block and voila, one less clean up in aisle 9

Thanks Doug and I have something that I have put together. You had as much to do with as any one here. Just need an email address to send it to.

[Popeye's Hemi]

you dont want fluid in the blind holes of the head bolt holes in the block. they will give a false torque reading if they hydrostatically stop the bolt.

Fargo do you recommend vaccuming out the head bolt holes in the block deck to remove the waste coolant?

[PaCharger]

Fargo do you recommend vaccuming out the head bolt holes in the block deck to remove the waste coolant?

yes yes and yes

[monty1269]

I'd also recommend blowing out the coolant from the motor mounts. :roll:

[Hemi31]

you dont want fluid in the blind holes of the head bolt holes in the block. they will give a false torque reading if they hydrostatically stop the bolt.not only that but you can crack the block on the torque to yield pull.

Fargo do you recommend vaccuming out the head bolt holes in the block deck to remove the waste coolant?Your kidding right?We all just said to clean the holes....even Fargo and your asking again?Vacuum,Airgun,paper towel,turkey baster.....get the holes clean before you break something.

[Junior]

not only that but you can crack the block on the torque to yield pull.

Your kidding right?We all just said to clean the holes....even Fargo and your asking again?Vacuum,Airgun,paper towel,turkey baster.....get the holes clean before you break something.

Yikes. Can you put that up in big lettering on the first post, Doug? I missed that part somewhere along the way, and I wish I hadn't.

[Cam]

Your kidding right?We all just said to clean the holes....even Fargo and your asking again?Vacuum,Airgun,paper towel,turkey baster.....

.......or Dougs wanger, it'll push that fluid riiiiiiiiiight out. :Na_Na_Na_Na:






But back to burping. I fill, bring the car up to 210 (put some cloves on) and pull the vent......done. Takes me 2 minutes minus the warm up.

[Hemi31]

.......or Dougs wanger, it'll push that fluid riiiiiiiiiight out. :Na_Na_Na_Na:
Ouch......must get chaffed pretty bad on those M12 threads:panic:

[Cam]

Ouch......must get chaffed pretty bad on those M12 threads:panic:


Not Dougy, he might have a skinny unit..............................but it's tuff as nails buddy!!. :not_worth:not_worth:not_worth

[PaCharger]

d'oh...you bastages - LMFAO....

[fargo59]

LMAO. looks like i missed a bit of ribbing tonight.

Summary. CLEAN THE BOLT HOLES!
and everything else Erik said. lol

on a side note. ive seen a tech grenade a camshaft by trying to tighten a hydrostatic locked cam bolt. was not pretty (nearly killed a guy). keep that in mind when working on engines.

[Junior]

Alright, so with all this talk about hydrostatic badness and cracked blocks...

If you fellas tell me to buy a new hardware kit and do it again, I will this weekend. Course I don't want to, but this is my only motor and all...

[Cam]

Alright, so with all this talk about hydrostatic badness and cracked blocks...

If you fellas tell me to buy a new hardware kit and do it again, I will this weekend. Course I don't want to, but this is my only motor and all...

You sound pretty concerned there Mike. I'd suggest that you pull the valve covers, remove the head bolts, vacuum out the holes and install new bolts. It won't take you all that long and there's no reason to pull the whole world apart.

I take it you didn't clean out the holes. And most likely, had you hydro locked them, the damage is already done.

[Junior]

You sound pretty concerned there Mike.
Well, kinda - the way you fellas are talking. I never thought of that, and never saw any reference to it beforehand.

I'd suggest that you pull the valve covers, remove the head bolts, vacuum out the holes and install new bolts. It won't take you all that long and there's no reason to pull the whole world apart.
Honestly? If so, I will. Gaskets should be OK, you think?

I take it you didn't clean out the holes.
You take it right.

And most likely, had you hydro locked them, the damage is already done.
Good way to find out?

[PaCharger]

Well well well - MAJOR kudos to Jeff F. aka PopEyes's Hemi
He really went above and beyond the call of duty (not bad for an old guy from the coast guard :) )
He has culled through the depths of this thread, shared information, and beyond to put together a great document.
We've split it and posted it to google documents and it is consumable by the entire LX Community now.
Please take care to read through the content, it is entirely usable at your own RISK.
Updates and comments to updates can be sent to PopEye or myself and we'll edit as time permits.
Hope this continues to help others looking to educate, install, understand or whatever other purpose you use the content for.

Cam Heads Headers Install Part 1 (http://2093824086031821579-a-1802744773732722657-s-sites.googlegroups.com/site/carstuffsite/Home/Cam-Heads-HeadersInstallPart-1.pdf?attredirects=0&auth=ANoY7cruyYaj-BAVN0K7LSrqdP9WpHynoo_dwCaFbKWKapLVZ1s72nXz8b7En6E TOEdCFb_YMO3EPLe9T7GabCUdnhjg2PedUDKMaTITctPZCdvaW-pjZWaKR8Pca-B_gtNUKYnFZflb_gCi1tkrwzPTcCwFJB6eBbT6j6f7Sc8Z4iVC nEcOO3VNSBvPjdJUme_UryqVnEPTTraU0Io7J7maxAISYgNVn0 rxPXZNfAZT3lGf_NJXGIE%3D)

Cam Heads Headers Install Part 2 (http://2093824086031821579-a-1802744773732722657-s-sites.googlegroups.com/site/carstuffsite/Home/Cam-Heads-HeadersInstallPart-2.pdf?attredirects=0&auth=ANoY7cph8qq-mE4LbKb-iLKn1m6nxWuDQ215bB3lyP8f-oTgb1Md8mZ3AsSI8hSnVxRtxOlOh9DyN8ASXJwb1_HjscKRQtW ZjJz8LpLxKabZciz9rE2msSOP7g1VcuSOOC646O1lsS-wBvKdOiebw2psBZKdasFfTD_wAupSG2DlLOoJ1-ELl3R4iUVNApUpYBCIa4P5A4LbrP4dF0uv5X78akv6Cijz7F6D NMYnSgyX3MjAqZMiMH4%3D)



The above has been added to the first post. BEANS to you Mr. Popeye!!!

[moparmike610]

Well well well - MAJOR kudos to Jeff F. aka PopEyes's Hemi
He really went above and beyond the call of duty (not bad for an old guy from the coast guard :) )
He has culled through the depths of this thread, shared information, and beyond to put together a great document.
We've split it and posted it to google documents and it is consumable by the entire LX Community now.
Please take care to read through the content, it is entirely usable at your own RISK.
Updates and comments to updates can be sent to PopEye or myself and we'll edit as time permits.
Hope this continues to help others looking to educate, install, understand or whatever other purpose you use the content for.

Cam Heads Headers Install Part 1 (http://2093824086031821579-a-1802744773732722657-s-sites.googlegroups.com/site/carstuffsite/Home/Cam-Heads-HeadersInstallPart-1.pdf?attredirects=0&auth=ANoY7cruyYaj-BAVN0K7LSrqdP9WpHynoo_dwCaFbKWKapLVZ1s72nXz8b7En6E TOEdCFb_YMO3EPLe9T7GabCUdnhjg2PedUDKMaTITctPZCdvaW-pjZWaKR8Pca-B_gtNUKYnFZflb_gCi1tkrwzPTcCwFJB6eBbT6j6f7Sc8Z4iVC nEcOO3VNSBvPjdJUme_UryqVnEPTTraU0Io7J7maxAISYgNVn0 rxPXZNfAZT3lGf_NJXGIE%3D)

Cam Heads Headers Install Part 2 (http://2093824086031821579-a-1802744773732722657-s-sites.googlegroups.com/site/carstuffsite/Home/Cam-Heads-HeadersInstallPart-2.pdf?attredirects=0&auth=ANoY7cph8qq-mE4LbKb-iLKn1m6nxWuDQ215bB3lyP8f-oTgb1Md8mZ3AsSI8hSnVxRtxOlOh9DyN8ASXJwb1_HjscKRQtW ZjJz8LpLxKabZciz9rE2msSOP7g1VcuSOOC646O1lsS-wBvKdOiebw2psBZKdasFfTD_wAupSG2DlLOoJ1-ELl3R4iUVNApUpYBCIa4P5A4LbrP4dF0uv5X78akv6Cijz7F6D NMYnSgyX3MjAqZMiMH4%3D)



The above has been added to the first post. BEANS to you Mr. Popeye!!!I see I'm in there too! Thanks Jeff!!:modding:

[AWD_Gabe]

Just a few more days and I'll have my own story to tell ..... :)

[PaCharger]

Just a few more days and I'll have my own story to tell ..... :)

time to get an AWD new best time huh? good choice of mods, should be interesting to see how much improvement you see gabe.

Be sure to take pics, write it up.... :)

[AWD_Gabe]

time to get an AWD new best time huh? good choice of mods, should be interesting to see how much improvement you see gabe.

Be sure to take pics, write it up.... :)

I like to take pics :mrgreen:

[Junior]

Instead of starting a new thread, I figured I'd ask here, where all the folks in the know hang out. :mrgreen:

So, Question:

The bolts that secure the cats to the headers: do they need to be a certain grade/hardness/etc? Or can I use 318 SS, or regular steel on those (with Nordlocks).

[fargo59]

youre using JBA headers, right? the idea isnt to reef the bolts tight, but the ones supplied by JBA arent exactly the best bolts. stainless 3/8" bolts will do fine.

[Junior]

Thanks Chris - actually I'm replacing one missing M10 (actually the SAE equivalent) on Anitta's SRT (Kooks to Magnaflows), but I was thinking of swapping all of hers and all of mine to the Metric sizes just so my tools match.

Hers are M10 (2 per side) and mine are M8 (4 per side). Again, they're not actually those sizes, they're SAE, but she's missing one and I want to replace them all - just want to get the right hardness or heat treating, if it matters.

EDIT: After digging a little deeper, It looks like the ones that came off of hers were SAE Grade 5. The Metric equivalent of that would be 8.8 I think.

[AWD_Gabe]

My install pics and videos :) :

http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=157158

[cowboyjw]

Great install guide.....

I will be doing a cam and header install soon but I have one question both guids give part numbers for 6.1 headgaskets and intake gaskets but no part number for 5.7...

maybe I am just missing something do I use 6.1 gaskets on the install or should I get the proper 5.7 gaskets....

sorry just confused...

[Popeye's Hemi]

Great install guide.....

I will be doing a cam and header install soon but I have one question both guids give part numbers for 6.1 headgaskets and intake gaskets but no part number for 5.7...

maybe I am just missing something do I use 6.1 gaskets on the install or should I get the proper 5.7 gaskets....

sorry just confused...

I sent you a PM and as for the intake gaskets, on a 5.7 you should be able to re-use them. It's the 6.1's that can tear easy. I've done 3 cam swaps and the only gaskets I replaced were head gaskets and exhaust/header gaskets. I have updated the cam swap guide to reflect a few updates and part numbers. If you want the updated copy send me a PM.

[PaCharger]

Edits made to document on Post #1, enjoy

[Popeye's Hemi]

Edits made to document on Post #1, enjoy

Thanks Doug for uploading the updates. I have some info concerning the 6.1 oil pump.
I found out when I put an SRT Max cam in an 06 SRT Charger a few weeks ago. The 6.1 oil pump pick-up tube is attached to the passenger side front bearing cap and requires the oil pan to be removed to replace the pump. I did not try to unbolt the tube from the pump. I had a new timing chain to install but decided to just replace the timing chain tensioner and fore-go the chain. I want to update the cam swap guide to reflect this info. This also applies the Ram truck 5.7's.

Jeff

[Jag]

Would the instructions for installing heads/cam on a 6.1 be the same as shown in the pdf files posted on the first page? If not where can i get info on swapping heads/cam on a 6.1.

[Popeye's Hemi]

Would the instructions for installing heads/cam on a 6.1 be the same as shown in the pdf files posted on the first page? If not where can i get info on swapping heads/cam on a 6.1.

Jag, Yes they are the same. The 5.7 and 6.1 use the same torque specs and parts for the most part. The intake manifold gasket is different, but that's about it. One big difference between the two engines is that on the 6.1 to see the lower crank sprocket timing marks you need to drop the oil pan an inch to get to the oil pump pick up tube bolt. Remove the bolt and slide the oil pump off. This is due to the pick up tube being attached to the passenger side of the front main bearing cap. On the 5.7 you only need remove the 4 bolts that attach the oil pump to the block and slide it off the crank sprocket. Leaving the pick up tube attached to the oil pump. It is not bolted to the main bearing cap. I don't remember if I put that info in the cam swap guide or not, but I varified this this past weekend putting a Spartan Max in an 08 Challenger SRT.

Good Luck

[Apache]

ttt

[PaCharger]

It's that time of year - again. Time to start swapping, building and making new stronger faster person bests down the track. Anyone have a link to an install, either put it here or PM me and I'll add it to the rest.

DJ

[dudeiwin86]

just did a swap on sunday :)
no pichurs tho :(

[PaCharger]

just did a swap on sunday :)
no pichurs tho :(

thought i noted something a bit different in your sig the other day.
Nice!

[LSCto300C]

This is probably the goldmine of all threads. This will definitely be an invaluable resource in the coming months.

[PaCharger]

Hey, after seeing a couple sweet challengers run today, it makes me wonder where all the LC guys are with installs, c'mon you wankers, fess up and share !!! :mrgreen:

[fargo59]

still think there's only a hand full of 09 5.7's with cams.

Rhyster's 09 challenger r/t cam install.
http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=187845