Take me to school .

[motorhed66]

OK. I have alot to learn.answer me this if you will.

1. KW suspension is to lower the car a touch,Yes?
lower car leads to better handeling,yes?
2. what, if any ,problems will I have if I choose to put 22s on my charger srt8? the brembos get in the way? let me have it.
3. big in back, skinny up front is called staggared. ???
4. so I want to put in a sway bar eventually. what now.
5.what is spaceing and why?

I guess I should become really good friends with a tire and rim joint huh? any help here is greatly appreciated

[402 Motoring]

OK. I have alot to learn.answer me this if you will.

1. KW suspension is to lower the car a touch,Yes?
lower car leads to better handeling,yes?
2. what, if any ,problems will I have if I choose to put 22s on my charger srt8? the brembos get in the way? let me have it.
3. big in back, skinny up front is called staggared. ???
4. so I want to put in a sway bar eventually. what now.
5.what is spaceing and why?

I guess I should become really good friends with a tire and rim joint huh? any help here is greatly appreciated


Lets see if I can help you :mrgreen:

1. KW's are adjustable, unlike lowering springs that give you a set ride height. Yes lowering will help with handling, and the KW's will give you a much better ride over just replacing the springs.

2. The biggest problem you'll face with 22's on an SRT is that its hard to find one peice wheels that will work with the Brembos. Sevas has the S10's that work on the SRT's. Heres a Charger with a set of Black S10's

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c48/rimguy/Wheels/DSCF1419.jpg

3. The wheels above are staggered. 22x9 up front and 22x10.5's in the rear.

4. Sways will give you stability in cornering.

5. Please clarify?

Let me know if I can be of any further assisitance

Ernie

[Super T]

I'll add my $0.02...

OK. I have alot to learn.answer me this if you will.

1. KW suspension is to lower the car a touch,Yes?
lower car leads to better handeling,yes?

Like was said, the KW's (or any coilovers) are adjustable, letting you change the ride height at will (OK, it takes a little work). Lowering the car brings the center of gravity closer to the ground, which is a good thing (you're actually bringing it closer to the roll center of the car, which has to do with the suspension geometry, but that's a diagram I don't want to draw. Suffice it to say that lower is better). That, coupled with the resulting preload on the springs, gives a more aggressive road grip. The coilovers also have upgraded dampers. The KW V2's have adjustable jounce and rebound damping (jounce is when you hit the bump and the shock compresses, rebound is when the spring is pushing the wheel back down). This gives you much more adjustability with your ride quality.

2. what, if any ,problems will I have if I choose to put 22s on my charger srt8? the brembos get in the way? let me have it.

The problem is the spokes... the Brembos stick out toward the outside of the car further than other calipers. This can be a problem for cheaper 22's because they need the spokes closer to the centerline of the rim for the sake of strength. There are plenty of wheels that do work. Best bet is to pick the ones you like and ask the manufacturer, a vendor, or a member that has them installed.

3. big in back, skinny up front is called staggared. ???

Staggered means wider in the back, skinnier in the front, correct. You can also do bigger diameter in back, smaller in front. That's a different ballgame. Supposedly our cars don't like that too much due to the wheel sensor readings.

4. so I want to put in a sway bar eventually. what now.

Now? Don't worry about it. They're compatible w/ any aftermarket shocks/springs/coilovers. For what it's worth though, installing the rear basically requires you to remove the rear shocks and springs anyway, so you may as well do it all at once and save on labor costs (or blood and cussing if you do it yourself :-P)

5.what is spaceing and why?

Not sure what you mean. You mean backspacing? Backspacing and offset are two ways of measuring the same thing. They basically tell you the distance between two planes... one is the plane that passes smack through the middle of the rim (so if it's a 9" rim, that'd be 4.5" from either side). The other is the plane where the rim mounts on the surface of the hub, where they actually touch. The goal is to have no scrub radius. What's that? The difference between the spot on the ground that the front tires rotate about when you turn the steering wheel, and the centerline of the tire. The bigger this number, the more work it takes to turn the tires and the more rubber you "scrub off" every time you turn.

I guess I should become really good friends with a tire and rim joint huh? any help here is greatly appreciated


Hopefully that makes a little bit of sense. If not, let me know!!

[motorhed66]

You guys are great. The more I look around ,the more I see Id like to do. The foose nitro looks so killer,but , is a no go.Can you guys point a finger in the right direction ,on similar performance rims? Ive done a search and have seen many optons..you guys have a prefrence as to brand?...My intent is to build as bullitt proof monster as possible, BEFORE I get to the engine.This will be a long process, as Im not rich.but by spring next year Ill be able to have it together to do suspension and tires ,rims. So im trying to learn as much as possible and come up with a round about # for wich to shoot for.


you both have helped in a huge way.

[Super T]

I like my AR rims for the price ($1,000 used w/ practically new Nitto 420s). Wouldn't pay too much more than that at this point in my life :-)