My interpretation of wiring Halo

[Mr.Nemo]

Ok, so I've said , halo will be off my todo mod list after all those trouble stories floating around but damn , one look and I WANT them :) I don't have halos yet but everyone says it's easy to wire them up . so here's my thinking of how it goes. so be easy on me, and PLEASE fill in the wrong/missing info .

this is what I got from justin from AAC when i asked for instruction
http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/5235/invertermag300ctj3.jpg
It says for magnum , but when asked , justin said it was same for chrysler too.

Here's my concept: it all depends if each headlights comes with 1 inverter or 2 inverters? so 1 inverters for 2 halo ring or 2 inverters for 2 rings (one each)
http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/6107/halowiring1ns7.jpg

one with switch?
http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/7919/halowiring2wg8.jpg


so there it is, I'm bit confused with the switch? what is the middle part for, the back side that is? am I totally off :) Is there certain amp switch that needs to be used, same for the wires ? even if I don't or do get Halos, I have to know how to wire them up, mystery is killing me :mrgreen:

[pukkaSRT8]

just to confuse you even more, i am going to run one inverter per halo, so thats 2 per side... :p

[Mr.Nemo]

so do they come with 2 inverters for each headlights? so, where's all the halo owners ? Hurry up and correct the info :)

[lowriderman3]

Middle part of switch should go to ground I do believe.

3 prong is: power, ground , and power for the toggle switch to light itself.

[Mr.Nemo]

oh so it's so the switch can have light right? thanks

[lowriderman3]

^^Exactly..Even though it can light up, you do not have to make it light up.

[pukkaSRT8]

so do they come with 2 inverters for each headlights? so, where's all the halo owners ? Hurry up and correct the info :)

No, they only come with one halo per headlight. Ive read soo many reports that people have issues with one halo being brighter than the other, or them struggling to light when cold, I decided to purchase another 2 inverters. Each halo will have its own power supply which *should* solve all the issues.

[Super T]

I don't think your switch is doing anything the way that's drawn...

[lowriderman3]

The new inverters that they are coming out with shortly will allow for you to only have to run one per side. AAC had a thread that they will swap out anyone that has the old ones for free.

[Wolfm@n]

I don't think your switch is doing anything the way that's drawn...

Looking at it, it looks like the fuse for the parking lights will blow when the parking are turned on... feeding the parking light voltage to each other then to ground through the switch.

[Super T]

^^ yeah, that part ain't right. What are you trying to accomplish w/ the switch? I'm thinking about picking up a pair and I would be wanting a three position switch, basically a Hand-Off-Auto switch. Two on positions... one that takes a feed from the park lamp circuits and just passes it through (Auto) and one that has a dedicated 12V feed (fused of course) (Hand). And Off is Off.

[Mr.Nemo]

I had no idea how to connect the switch part so just figured that :) so how would it be connected? diagram will be very helpful

[D's300C]

the three prongs arent to light up the switch. its the same with unlit switches. One is the ground for the switch, one is the power to the accessory (ie Halos), and the other is to the power source you are using (if i remeber correctly, one end is ground, center is power source, othe side is accessory power. the package of the switch will tell you which end is which)when you flip the switch to on, you are completing the power circuit. when you switch it off, you are basically disconnecting the power source from the halos. All the light does in the switch is get power from the completed circuit and lights up to tell you that the circuit is complete (ie, its turned on)

BTW, all four of my halos light up equally bright. I have AAC Halos.

Pm me a little later and I will try to get pics of my wiring tonight (as best I can w/o removing front fascia)

[lowriderman3]

the three prongs arent to light up the switch. its the same with unlit switches. One is the ground for the switch, one is the power to the accessory (ie Halos), and the other is to the power source you are using (if i remeber correctly, one end is ground, center is power source, othe side is accessory power. the package of the switch will tell you which end is which)when you flip the switch to on, you are completing the power circuit. when you switch it off, you are basically disconnecting the power source from the halos. All the light does in the switch is get power from the completed circuit and lights up to tell you that the circuit is complete (ie, its turned on)

BTW, all four of my halos light up equally bright. I have AAC Halos.

Pm me a little later and I will try to get pics of my wiring tonight (as best I can w/o removing front fascia)
One of the prongs is to light up the switch though. i.e grounding the switch...You do not have to use it if you choose for the light not to come on for the switch. This is not a 3 position switch.

[lowriderman3]

^^ yeah, that part ain't right. What are you trying to accomplish w/ the switch? I'm thinking about picking up a pair and I would be wanting a three position switch, basically a Hand-Off-Auto switch. Two on positions... one that takes a feed from the park lamp circuits and just passes it through (Auto) and one that has a dedicated 12V feed (fused of course) (Hand). And Off is Off.

I have a 3 position switch on mine

ON << with accessory
OFF
ON << without having to turn on the car(great for shows or hanging out)

[D's300C]

where did you buy a 3 position switch? I couldnt find any.

I looked at the non light switches and they also have 3 prongs. same set up. dont know how you could run it with only 2 prongs

[HemiLover]

Depends what kind of switch! The ones he pictures are SPST switches with a power lug for the LED inside the switch...one lug load, one lug supply, one lug LED supply. The diagram should be printed right on the side of the switch (teeny). The amp draw (fuses blowing) shouldn't be an issue as the inverters only pull about 2 amps max.
I just recieved my full halo kit from ACC, with "newer" inverters that have two pigtails, one for each ring so you can run both off one inverter. The newest inverters AAC is offering (in a couple weeks) are the same only better weatherproofed.
From what I've seen from the kit and instructions so far is this.... this is a delicate procedure! The rings are basically glass floresent tubes that are very fragile, and the inverters are just that - electronics DC to AC inverters as the halos run on AC. I'm guessing these were never designed to be mounted in a car let alone outside in the weather, probably designed to be installed in an equipment cabinet inside a building - hence the need to seal the crap out of them and probably why all the issues.

[HemiLover]

Go to radio shack or better yet an electronics supply store, they have all sorts of SPST, DPDT, on/on/on on/off/on switches to choose from....

[TWIST3D BLACK MAG]

Middle part of switch should go to ground I do believe.

3 prong is: power, ground , and power for the toggle switch to light itself.


Correct , my good Man........

[Super T]

I would do this:

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f82/tczworniak/circuit-1.jpg


This is a pretty cheap circuit to put together... maybe $15 at Radio Shack and Autozone. You can also add the LED to indicate whether the rings are on or not... it's nice to do it w/ the LED because that way it is sensitive to the park lamp circuit as well. Check out my thread on my underhood lights... you might be able to fit a 3-way switch and the LED inside your headlight switch! I'll be looking into this if I get rings.

Be sure to fuse your direct connections to power. Realistically, the two connections shown can share a fuse. Note that apparently CCFL inverters DO care about polarity.

[lowriderman3]

where did you buy a 3 position switch? I couldnt find any.

I looked at the non light switches and they also have 3 prongs. same set up. dont know how you could run it with only 2 prongs

Let me check..I believe it was a seller off of eBay, but they are great switches. They are rocker switches and small. All my Radio Shack ever has is the metal toggle 3-ways..I wanted something more sleek.

*Edit* Found it..It is:

http://www.futurlec.com/SwRocker.shtml RSPDT101...Click on the "more info" to see the actual pic of it

http://www.futurlec.com/Switches/RSPDT101.shtml

I found them on eBay way back in the day, but just buy direct from them now.

http://www.futurlec.com/Pictures/RSPDT101.jpg

[D's300C]

Let me check..I believe it was a seller off of eBay, but they are great switches. They are rocker switches and small. All my Radio Shack every has is the metal toggle 3-ways..I wanted something more sleek.

*Edit* Found it..It is:

http://www.futurlec.com/SwRocker.shtml RSPDT101...Click on the "more info" to see the actual pic of it

http://www.futurlec.com/Switches/RSPDT101.shtml

http://www.futurlec.com/Pictures/RSPDT101.jpg
Thanx, ill check those out. I didnt run the power source from a relay. I ran it straight from the (+) terminal by the fuse box. I see how it works gong through the relay though. the relay provides the ground and the power. got it for next time. thanx fellas

[Super T]

Couple notes regarding that diagram - make sure you use a 12V LED or add a resistor if you use like a 5V. Also, check the rating on your relay, make sure it can handle whatever current the inverters draw on the input side.

[Mr.Nemo]

wow, thanks for all the info and super T love the diagram.I got question on the diagram it shows that the automotive relay 30 goes to a 12v constant power source. Is that necessary seeing that I'll only be using the switch to just turn it on and off thru using the parking light wire

http://img113.imageshack.us/img113/8434/halowiringabr0.jpg

I apologizes for soo many stupid questions. just want to know for sure before attempting this mod.

[Truth Kid]

wow, thanks for all the info and super T love the diagram.I got question on the diagram it shows that the automotive relay 30 goes to a 12v constant power source. Is that necessary seeing that I'll only be using the switch to just turn it on and off thru using the parking light wire

http://img113.imageshack.us/img113/8434/halowiringabr0.jpg

I apologizes for soo many stupid questions. just want to know for sure before attempting this mod.

Don't feel stupid, I've been searching for a good FAQ on wiring a switch for the halos so count mein the stupid club! I believe the bottom red comment you put on the picture is so the halos have the ability to run with a switch and also turn on automatically when the headlights are engaged. If you have a two way switch then the parking light tap wouldn't be needed (correct me if I'm wrong). Two power sources for two positions of the switch

[Tork Monster]

Yeee gawds, guys! I feel like I took the easy way out!

I just spliced the positive and the negative wires into the parking lights. I didn't want those parking lights on anymore anyway; just using the turnsignals now.

One comment:
I already had one inverter go bad, and I had to pull the headlight cover off again to replace it. The next time I will be splicing in longer wires so I can mount the inverters outside of the headlight housing so any further replacements will be easy.

I don't really want to take these apart any more often than I have to- :doh:

[D's300C]

Yeee gawds, guys! I feel like I took the easy way out!

I just spliced the positive and the negative wires into the parking lights. I didn't want those parking lights on anymore anyway; just using the turnsignals now.

One comment:
I already had one inverter go bad, and I had to pull the headlight cover off again to replace it. The next time I will be splicing in longer wires so I can mount the inverters outside of the headlight housing so any further replacements will be easy.

I don't really want to take these apart any more often than I have to- :doh:I just put mine on a switch so I control when they are on, no parking lights for me. Also, my inverters are mounted inside the housing, but just behind the grommet for the low beams. I dont have to take the lights apart to get to them.

[Spiffywerks]

The Harness FocusTech Provides with their stuff is pretty nice.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b151/Spiffywerks/Halos/th_harness.jpg (http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b151/Spiffywerks/Halos/harness.jpg)

[Super T]

Correct, you don't need the one on the right if you only want to be able to have them on while the parking lights are on. As far as the other comment, no, from there you would split off to the two sides of the car. All four inverter "+" wires (the red ones) would connect at one point, and all four inverter "-" wires (the black ones) would connect at the other.

[lowriderman3]

Mine are not tapped into the parking lights or lights either...3 way switch has to be switched to work..I run mine in the all the time, and would not want to run my park lights too because I want to run my halos in the daytime.

[Pug]

The Harness FocusTech Provides with their stuff is pretty nice.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b151/Spiffywerks/Halos/th_harness.jpg (http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b151/Spiffywerks/Halos/harness.jpg)

I am glad to hear that! I just ordered a set for my 300 and anticipate them getting here within a day or so. They said they were "plug n play" with no splicing or wiring to do at all. Jeez I hope that's the case seeing all these awsome but daunting diagrams:doh:

[Super T]

I am glad to hear that! I just ordered a set for my 300 and anticipate them getting here within a day or so. They said they were "plug n play" with no splicing or wiring to do at all. Jeez I hope that's the case seeing all these awesome but daunting diagrams:doh:

The harness in that picture is everything in my diagram minus the connection to the park lamp circuit (and it needs a 2-way switch, not a 3-way). Very much plug and play. Glad they put a nice kit together!

[Pug]

The harness in that picture is everything in my diagram minus the connection to the park lamp circuit (and it needs a 2-way switch, not a 3-way). Very much plug and play. Glad they put a nice kit together!

So, if I am reading this right there is a splice/connection needed to be made with the parking lamps? And the kit needs a switch? I would think it was wired in to come on automatically.

[Super T]

So, if I am reading this right there is a splice/connection needed to be made with the parking lamps? And the kit needs a switch? I would think it was wired in to come on automatically.

Sorry, lemmie clarify... that kit is everything you need, minus a switch (at least they don't show it), to install the lights for on-off operation. There is no provision in that kit, as it stands there, to be run off of the park lamp circuit. You could make it happen w/ some modification but then it's not a plug-and-play, it's a plug-splice-and-play :wink:

[Pug]

Ok, I bet alot of this will be answered whenever I get mine from the brown truck - but from what I understand, the lights - as is - come on when the parking lights come on and go off when the parking lights are off. Some people have wired in a switch to make them hot reguardless of the parking lights right?

[CplDaugherty]

Correct.

I took out my cig lighter and put a switch in that spot and ran my halos off that 12v source coming in to that. When I'm driving day to day it's only hot when the car is in the ON position or running (so I don't accidentaly leave them on and drain my battery). When I go to shows I just move the fuse to the always on location and I'm good to go.

[Pug]

Correct.

I took out my cig lighter and put a switch in that spot and ran my halos off that 12v source coming in to that. When I'm driving day to day it's only hot when the car is in the ON position or running (so I don't accidentaly leave them on and drain my battery). When I go to shows I just move the fuse to the always on location and I'm good to go.

Gotcha gotcha. It would be cool to just flip them on at will - like Rocks (BTW props to him for those halo's :not_worth- they are sick with the painted light buckets!) but that seems like one solder too many for me :loser:

[CplDaugherty]

It is nice to not have them tied to the parking lights, plus I can turn them off if I see a cop giving me the look like they want to pull me over, lol.

Here's a few random pics of my install (my halos are dead right now, passenger inverter caught fire and I have to pop open the housing to see if the smoke damage can be cleaned or I have to paint/replace them)

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m229/cpldaugherty/SFclearing019.jpg
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m229/cpldaugherty/SFclearing017.jpg
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m229/cpldaugherty/SFclearing008.jpg
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m229/cpldaugherty/SFclearing001.jpg
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m229/cpldaugherty/halosrewired228.jpg
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m229/cpldaugherty/halosrewired227.jpg
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m229/cpldaugherty/halosrewired237.jpg
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m229/cpldaugherty/eyesleftwq7.jpg


It would be nice if these would work!!!!

[Super T]

from what I understand, the lights - as is - come on when the parking lights come on and go off when the parking lights are off.

Well with those ring terminals on the + and - leads, looks like they are independent of the parking lights and will just go on and off with a switch. To make that circuit work with the park lights, you'd have to bypass the switch and instead run one of the wires for it to ground and the other to the park lamp circuit (on the side that is NOT positive all the time).

[Mr.Nemo]

Correct.

I took out my cig lighter and put a switch in that spot and ran my halos off that 12v source coming in to that. When I'm driving day to day it's only hot when the car is in the ON position or running (so I don't accidentaly leave them on and drain my battery). When I go to shows I just move the fuse to the always on location and I'm good to go.

That's a really good spot, since I don't use the lighter anyways. was it easy to take the lighter out and run the wire thru to it for the switch. And if your powering your halo this way, then you don't need to tap it into the parking light wire right? btw could you tell me which is the hot parking light wire? I know there's 3 but the color scheme? thanks

oh, how's the progress on your headlights, good news bad news ?

[CplDaugherty]

Why yes sir I can help you out with those questions.

1. I didn't use the lighter anyways so it was a perfect spot. All you have to do is remove the ash tray assembly, which takes about 2 min. Getting the actual lighter out was a little bit of a pain in the ass, I ended up breaking the lighter, but since I was taking it out for good I didn't really care. You'll have to pop the wires through the firewall, that's the pic of the 2 wires. I used a wire coat hanger and put it through a grommet right next to the brake pedal (I think it's the passthrough for the parking brake). I also got some black wire loom at advance auto that almost perfectly matched the OEM stuff. Should only take you about an hour to do it all, much less time if you know what you're doing.
2. Yes I did this so that you don't have to tap into the parking lights.
3. White/Purple is the hot wire for the parking lights if you decide to go that route (the dark one is the ground, I think it's black/brown or black/blue or something like that). Just a little tip: I didn't tap into it, I cut the wire and spliced it into the halos but not back into the headlight. That way when I had the parking lights on, only the halos were on and not the yellow solid turn signal bulb. Makes it more clean this way, gives your halos more "pop" w/o that yellow light, plus the turn signals still function correctly (hazards too).


Well my halos are still screwed. I'm gonna pop them open and either clean them or paint them this weekend, then see if AAC will man up and give me some free inverters. So I'll know for sure this weekend. I'm hoping I can just clean them, I'd love to leave the housings chrome, but colormatching them BB isn't a bad plan B I reckon. Depends on how bad the smoke damage ends up being...

[Pug]

I keep on hearing about AAC inverters going belly up. Hope FocuzTech does not use these. It seems they are slightly different than all the other Halo's out there in that they are not a solid ring - I think it makes em look meaner.

http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa233/Pugnacious_bucket/DK1.jpg

[Mr.Nemo]

thanks for the speedy response :) I forgot to ask which wire is the hot one in the lighter , since I'll more likely go this route. how hard was it to route the wire thru the e brake grommet , looking at the picture I'm guessing it's on the driver side right? so once you punched thru that hole is it easy to route it thru the center where the astray is. you know what I mean?

cutting the wire so the yellow parking light doesn't turn on will makk the halos pop more I'm sure but I don't want to give the nice officer an excuse to pull me over, I'm sure they got better things to do than pull someone over for that but then again who knows. I'm too scared of cops :) so yellow lights will be with me .

[lowriderman3]

I keep on hearing about AAC inverters going belly up. Hope FocuzTech does not use these. It seems they are slightly different than all the other Halo's out there in that they are not a solid ring - I think it makes em look meaner.

http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa233/Pugnacious_bucket/DK1.jpg
That is why I put back on my eyelids on the Mag..It cut off the top part of the ring somewhat and gave it an evil look. Looks sweet!

[CplDaugherty]

thanks for the speedy response :) I forgot to ask which wire is the hot one in the lighter , since I'll more likely go this route. how hard was it to route the wire thru the e brake grommet , looking at the picture I'm guessing it's on the driver side right? so once you punched thru that hole is it easy to route it thru the center where the astray is. you know what I mean?

cutting the wire so the yellow parking light doesn't turn on will makk the halos pop more I'm sure but I don't want to give the nice officer an excuse to pull me over, I'm sure they got better things to do than pull someone over for that but then again who knows. I'm too scared of cops :) so yellow lights will be with me .


Ummm that I don't remember... I'd have to go look later tonight. It wasn't very hard at all, you can pretty much reach right up there from under the drivers side dash. And you are correct, the grommet is on the drivers side.

Lol, no prob, just thought I'd give you a good tip!

[Tork Monster]

thanks for the speedy response :) I forgot to ask which wire is the hot one in the lighter , since I'll more likely go this route. how hard was it to route the wire thru the e brake grommet , looking at the picture I'm guessing it's on the driver side right? so once you punched thru that hole is it easy to route it thru the center where the astray is. you know what I mean?

cutting the wire so the yellow parking light doesn't turn on will makk the halos pop more I'm sure but I don't want to give the nice officer an excuse to pull me over, I'm sure they got better things to do than pull someone over for that but then again who knows. I'm too scared of cops :) so yellow lights will be with me .

Nemo-
I just jumped in and haven't read the whole question, but I tapped into the lighter for my exhaust cutouts and used both the hot and the ground to make things easy. I disconnected the battery and used a continuity tester to check the ground side of the plug, and the other wire would then be the hot wire. You can certainly check the hot wire with a voltage tester too.
I think the hot wire was red & brown, while the ground wire was brown and red.
DON'T GET THEM MIXED UP!!
:mrgreen:

[Mr.Nemo]

Thanks CprD and Tork. getting less confused :)

[CplDaugherty]

Any time buddy!

[Mr.Nemo]

man, if you are ever in my neck of the wood, cold beer or what ever you drink is on me. and of course all other's that helped too :)

[CplDaugherty]

I'll see ya at the next SF I'm sure