PDA

View Full Version : remote starter fix


Slick Magnum
12-22-2006, 09:44 PM
So I have been having problems ever since the dealer installed the remote starter on the 300c. Rarely worked in my driveway & the wife said it always works at work & at the malls. WTF??!!

Then it hit me. she always parks behind me in the driveway & it has a slight slope to it. Turns out that when we back it into the driveway, it works!! It must be the hood switch!! Problem is, we have such a dark tint on it, it's hard for her to back into the driveway at night.

So, if I cut the wire to the hood switch, will the remote starter still work? I already unplugged th horn wire from both cars so we don't piss off the neighbors.

fnkychkn
12-22-2006, 09:51 PM
no it will not. the wire to the hood switch must be grounded in order for it to work. you can try adjusting the angle of the switch. vehicle level with the hood open, the switch should be at a 45* angle.

SmoovC
12-22-2006, 10:04 PM
You could also ditch the merc switch, install a pin switch, and wire through a SPDT relay as follows:

pin 85 to the switch,
pin 86 to 12 volts constant (battery),
pin 30 to ground,
pin 87A to the hood input of remote start unit.

The R/S will see ground until the hood is opened.

Token
12-23-2006, 03:06 AM
Or just pull the switch all together, and just ground out that wire.

Super T
12-25-2006, 11:43 PM
I grounded mine

PaulFix
12-25-2006, 11:58 PM
I grounded mine also, but applied the sticker

lower8
12-31-2006, 01:59 AM
You could also ditch the merc switch, install a pin switch, and wire through a SPDT relay as follows:

pin 85 to the switch,
pin 86 to 12 volts constant (battery),
pin 30 to ground,
pin 87A to the hood input of remote start unit.

The R/S will see ground until the hood is opened.
are you sure there is a merc switch?

SmoovC
12-31-2006, 02:39 AM
no it will not. the wire to the hood switch must be grounded in order for it to work. you can try adjusting the angle of the switch. vehicle level with the hood open, the switch should be at a 45* angle.

are you sure there is a merc switch?

If am understanding fnky's post correctly, there is.
Aftermarket systems work the opposite way: if they see ground, they will NOT start. The Mopar system needs to see ground in order to start.

fnkychkn
12-31-2006, 12:11 PM
If am understanding fnky's post correctly, there is.
Aftermarket systems work the opposite way: if they see ground, they will NOT start. The Mopar system needs to see ground in order to start.
actually, it's a ball switch. when the ball reaches the end of it's travel, it closes the switch contacts.
the new kits now come with a different switch that no longer grounds through the chassis. it's now a normally open switch and the circuit returns to the module.

RobAGD
12-31-2006, 12:42 PM
After much frustration in cold weather I cut the hood switch out of mine and grounded it. The Horn I added a cut switch, so in the AM I can set it to off and no horn, when I get in I turn it on and when I start it through outthe day I get the little honks. Kind of helpfull this time of year finding the car in the crowded lots.

-R

LowGo
12-31-2006, 04:44 PM
I've always had a problem with my remote start not working at random times. It does this even in my garage, which is level, so I don't think it's the hood switch. I've tried to figure out a pattern to it's behavior, but can't find anything that's consistant. I was wondering if there was a way to decifer why the car won't start. All it does is flash the lights at me, with no way of knowing what's causing the problem.

Token
12-31-2006, 05:00 PM
It's still likely the hood switch that's causing the problem. I've had the same thing happen when the switch was installed.

The ball switch is a poor design, the simple vibration of the engine starting can move the ball and break the contacts. Causing the car to shut off.
Or if the ball is not in the exact right position, the contacts will not be closed and the remote start will not function.

This was an internittant issue when the switch was in place, as my driveway is also level, but since the removal of the switch, has never re-occured.

Only way to eliminate this possibility is to remove the switch and test it.

LowGo
12-31-2006, 05:30 PM
It's still likely the hood switch that's causing the problem. I've had the same thing happen when the switch was installed.


Thanks for the info. I'll have to do some testing on that switch and see if it fixes my problem.

fnkychkn
12-31-2006, 07:06 PM
I've always had a problem with my remote start not working at random times. It does this even in my garage, which is level, so I don't think it's the hood switch. I've tried to figure out a pattern to it's behavior, but can't find anything that's consistant. I was wondering if there was a way to decifer why the car won't start. All it does is flash the lights at me, with no way of knowing what's causing the problem.
the clue is how many times it flashes. please describe the exact sequence of events that occur when it doesn't start.

LowGo
12-31-2006, 10:28 PM
the clue is how many times it flashes. please describe the exact sequence of events that occur when it doesn't start.

I knew you'd ask me a technical question like that! :mrgreen: As I recall, they always flash twice (but don't hold me to that... I'll have to pay more attention next time). I push the remote start button twice... you can hear it do some stuff (little clicking noises)... then the lights flash back at me twice (what I call the "screw you, I'm not starting" signal)! :) I've disconnected the noisy horn, so I don't know how many times it would honk (twice too, if I remember correctly).

I had the hood up tonight, so I decided to just bend the switch down a little to see what happens. I've used the remote start 3 times since then, and it's worked each time. We'll see if that holds.

fnkychkn
01-01-2007, 12:07 AM
flashes and horn sound simultaneously. it should flash once for each press of the remote start transmitter fob. if it flashes twice after that and fails to start, this indicates a safety device malfunction, either hood or stoplamp switch. looks like adjusting the hood switch fixed it for you. :thumbs_u:

LowGo
01-01-2007, 11:52 PM
flashes and horn sound simultaneously. it should flash once for each press of the remote start transmitter fob. if it flashes twice after that and fails to start, this indicates a safety device malfunction, either hood or stoplamp switch. looks like adjusting the hood switch fixed it for you. :thumbs_u:

Well... it looks like adjusting the hood switch DIDN'T fix it! :sad:

I tried using the remote start with my car in my garage this afternoon. I push the button twice, the lights flash at me each time, it does it's little clicky stuff, then the lights flash back at me twice. I even opened the hood and bent the switch down a little more. It didnt' work. I tried several more time... until the car does the 8 flashes, telling me that it's not going to try any more until after I use the key.

So, I started the car with the key and went off to run my errands. I stopped several times, each time turning the car off. When I came back, I used the remote start to start the car, and it worked every time. I even did some playing around to see if it made a difference... car dropped, car raised, air tank drained so the compressors kick on when started, front end raised and back end dropped so it would be on an angel, doors locked, unlocked... it still worked ever time. I'm confused! I wish it would tell me what it's not liking!!! :doh:

fnkychkn
01-01-2007, 11:59 PM
carry around a jumper wire. if/when it happens again, ground the hood switch wire (the one that goes to the module). if it now starts, replace the hood switch. if it still won't start and gives you the same flashes, you'll need to test the stoplamp switch circuits.

Token
01-02-2007, 12:06 AM
Excellent advice as always Pete

LowGo
01-02-2007, 12:16 AM
carry around a jumper wire. if/when it happens again, ground the hood switch wire (the one that goes to the module). if it now starts, replace the hood switch. if it still won't start and gives you the same flashes, you'll need to test the stoplamp switch circuits.

Thanks fnky... I'll do that. Hopefully it will happen in the garage again and not on a cold, dark, rainy night outside in a parking lot! :wink:

fnkychkn
01-02-2007, 12:24 AM
Thanks fnky... I'll do that. Hopefully it will happen in the garage again and not on a cold, dark, rainy night outside in a parking lot! :wink:
also carry a razor blade, knife or wire strippers so you can bare part of the wire to ground it.

Kevin872
01-06-2007, 10:53 PM
MYMAGGIEMAE: READ THIS!!!!

As far as the hood tilt switch, there is a TSB on that and the dealer will replace it with a better one. Solved my hood switch problem.

A while back I posted a problem similar to MyMaggieMae. Although I initially had problems with the hood switch, I also had another problem unrelated to the hood switch (I knew because I grounded it, thus bypassing it). It took me a while to figure it out, and of course the dealer did nothing to help, but here's the deal:

If you press Start and you hear two honks immediately, it is a safety input (most likely the hood switch or brake depressed). Alternatively, if the ignition comes on for a second or two ("little clicky stuff"), then the ignition turns off, then the horn honks twice, it is the "key-in" circuit saying there is a key in the ignition.

I discovered on a couple very cold mornings that when I got in the car to manually start it (after a failed remote start) that the ignition chime was dinging like there was a key in the ignition, but there wasn't. I have concluded that on very cold days, the ignition switch falsely detects a key in the ignition. Because of this, the car will not remote start. Rather than hassle with the dealer and try to have my car there on the "right day" (i.e. cold enough to act up), I did the next best thing: I cut the key-sense wire going into the remote starter module. Problem solved.

Last winter I had cut that wire and twisted it back together waiting for it to act up but we never had another cold enough day. This year it happened again and I was ready. I got in the car, pulled the wire ends apart (thus disconnecting the key-in wire) and viola! The car remote started. I forget which wire it is, but I THINK it is yellow.

I suspect this "false key in the ignition on cold days" is probably somewhat common, but since most people don't have a remote starter, most people never notice an adverse symptom.

-Kevin

Slick Magnum
01-06-2007, 11:07 PM
MYMAGGIEMAE: READ THIS!!!!

As far as the hood tilt switch, there is a TSB on that and the dealer will replace it with a better one. Solved my hood switch problem.

A while back I posted a problem similar to MyMaggieMae. Although I initially had problems with the hood switch, I also had another problem unrelated to the hood switch (I knew because I grounded it, thus bypassing it). It took me a while to figure it out, and of course the dealer did nothing to help, but here's the deal:

If you press Start and you hear two honks immediately, it is a safety input (most likely the hood switch or brake depressed). Alternatively, if the ignition comes on for a second or two ("little clicky stuff"), then the ignition turns off, then the horn honks twice, it is the "key-in" circuit saying there is a key in the ignition.

I discovered on a couple very cold mornings that when I got in the car to manually start it (after a failed remote start) that the ignition chime was dinging like there was a key in the ignition, but there wasn't. I have concluded that on very cold days, the ignition switch falsely detects a key in the ignition. Because of this, the car will not remote start. Rather than hassle with the dealer and try to have my car there on the "right day" (i.e. cold enough to act up), I did the next best thing: I cut the key-sense wire going into the remote starter module. Problem solved.

Last winter I had cut that wire and twisted it back together waiting for it to act up but we never had another cold enough day. This year it happened again and I was ready. I got in the car, pulled the wire ends apart (thus disconnecting the key-in wire) and viola! The car remote started. I forget which wire it is, but I THINK it is yellow.

I suspect this "false key in the ignition on cold days" is probably somewhat common, but since most people don't have a remote starter, most people never notice an adverse symptom.

-Kevin


Very interesting!! The wife's 300 has been ok for awhile now, but the weather has been very mild lately. It's great to know I will have a couple of options if it acts up again.

Thanks for the info.

Kevin872
01-06-2007, 11:17 PM
I should also add that this last time it didn't remote start, I got into the car expecting the chime to be dinging but it wasn't. My first thought was that I was wrong, but then again, the ignition coming on, going off, then two honks ONLY suggests that there is a key in the ignition (according to the installation manual).

I add this just to point out that if someone else has this same response from their remote starter (but doesn't hear the chime when they open the door), that it is still the key-in sensor cancelling the remote start.

-Kevin

LowGo
01-07-2007, 01:25 AM
I add this just to point out that if someone else has this same response from their remote starter (but doesn't hear the chime when they open the door), that it is still the key-in sensor cancelling the remote start.

-Kevin

Thanks for the info Kevin. That sounds like a good possibility to look into. Since my last post though, my remote start hasn't acted up again. I'm really having doubts that it's the hood switch, unless I've got a very erratic switch.

NYCSRTATE
04-30-2009, 08:41 PM
I am having this issue with my remote start to, but my horn only beeps once and it does not attempt to start, if I get in it start it, then shut it off and remote start it, it works. Once I get out and arm the alarm and try it it wont start only get 1 beep from the horn, anyone have an idea?