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Cdn_Magnum
11-14-2006, 07:21 PM
The credit for this mod goes to Ratman1648. He figured it out and I was the test bed for it.. Give him the beans :) :banana:

The mod works are he predicted it would.

I apologize for the poor pix. My Sony camera decided to start to die on me.

You just need to solder a 4.7k (1/4watt) resistor on one lead of the switch. I soldered two wires to the switch with pin connectors on it to push into the release connector.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v244/Airsoft_Wolfman/switch1.jpg
The switch I used is a trunk release switch from a Crown Victoria (had the switch laying about)

The switch technically can go anywhere if you want to run wire to the release connector.

Remove the trim panel on the upper portion of the door sill next to the upper dash.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v244/Airsoft_Wolfman/Removetrimpanel.jpg
Remove 1 phillips screw behind this trim panel.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v244/Airsoft_Wolfman/undophillipsscrew.jpg
Remove one hex head screw about the middle of the lower dash cover.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v244/Airsoft_Wolfman/undohexscrewnexttohoodrelease.jpg
Pull the lower dash cover towards the drivers seat... its snapped into place. This should gain you access to the rear hatch release connector above the parking brake release. Drill the appropriate size hole for your switch. Mount the switch and use either 3M scotch lock connectors or small pin connectors (to push into the existing connector).
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v244/Airsoft_Wolfman/dashpulledout.jpg
Reverse your procedure to reassemble the dash.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v244/Airsoft_Wolfman/finishedproduct.jpg
Instrument panel warning that the hatch isnt latched :)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v244/Airsoft_Wolfman/hatchopenwarning.jpg

Time to install ... about half an hour

Note** You do have to have the doors unlocked to get the release to work. This mod may or may not be useful to some because it does NOT open the lift by itself. Ratman1648 recommends stronger shock be mounted back there to assist in opening the lift gate (and removal of the counter weights). But it may assist in at least pre-releasing the lift for someone outside the back of the vehicle.

Parts List:

1 - momentary switch of your choice
1 - 4.7K resistor 1/4 watt
1 - location of installers choice for push button
2 - pin connectors (anything that will fit in the existing connector will work)

FloridaRT
11-15-2006, 09:10 AM
Great write up, can you redo the photos in the near future??????????

Thanks,

Bob A.

pir8magnum
11-15-2006, 09:18 AM
My wish-mod is a key fob based button to release (and possibly open) the hatch. Im surprised they dont have it as an option, honestly.

Cdn_Magnum
11-15-2006, 09:23 AM
Great write up, can you redo the photos in the near future??????????

Thanks,

Bob A.

Its easy to pull the panels apart, so as soon as I buy a new camera I will update the pix . Again I apologize for the poor quality, but something was better than nothing.

Cheers

ratman1648
11-15-2006, 10:22 AM
just adding a link to the original thread
http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=45999

and the place that I think we can get some struts from
http://www.suspa-inc.com/index.htm

legmaker72
11-15-2006, 10:31 AM
Awesome work sguys...beans for both of you!

Super T
11-15-2006, 10:48 AM
Good find. Now I'm just awaiting a solution for getting it to open...

ratman1648
11-15-2006, 10:52 AM
Good find. Now I'm just awaiting a solution for getting it to open...
what is STRONGER STRUTS???:wink:
and remove weights

pir8magnum
11-15-2006, 10:53 AM
So, could you install a remote switch in that space and then use a fob/keychain of some sort to activate it?

Then my dream of having a remote opener would come true!

Its easy to pull the panels apart, so as soon as I buy a new camera I will update the pix . Again I apologize for the poor quality, but something was better than nothing.

Cheers

ratman1648
11-15-2006, 10:56 AM
So, could you install a remote switch in that space and then use a fob/keychain of some sort to activate it?

Then my dream of having a remote opener would come true!
if the switched wire provides a ground, I think if you connect it to the voltage sensor line with the resistor I'm pretty sure it will work

pir8magnum
11-15-2006, 11:12 AM
Hmm..I think this mod could have a whole new dimension!

Anyone know where to get aftermarket remote switches?

if the switched wire provides a ground, I think if you connect it to the voltage sensor line with the resistor I'm pretty sure it will work

ratman1648
11-15-2006, 11:20 AM
Hmm..I think this mod could have a whole new dimension!

Anyone know where to get aftermarket remote switches?
you can use one of these but since you need a switched ground(-) it would require the use of a relay

pir8magnum
11-15-2006, 11:42 AM
Well, you just went over my head..

I'll let someone else figure it out and once they do, I'll install it.

Or, if someone can figure out a theoretical way to do it, I could be the guinea pig for it. Let me know.

you can use one of these but since you need a switched ground(-) it would require the use of a relay

Redfox0099
11-15-2006, 12:03 PM
This is a good find....Good job

MrHemi2U
11-15-2006, 12:11 PM
Nice teamwork thanks.

ratman1648
11-15-2006, 12:19 PM
here is what a relay is and does
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Relay

what you will be doing is making the relay coil open and close the 4.7kohm ground(-) for your release. Any automotive 12v relay will work. Here is what will happen.

1. You press the button
2. Remote module activates appropriate 12V lead
3. The 12V applied to the relay's coil causes the switch to close
4. The Switch in this case would be the same as a momentary push button switch...wired to a ground(-) source


If its too complicated for ya, send me 20 bucks and I'll wire up a relay for you, make instructions for hooking it up, then mail it back.

pir8magnum
11-15-2006, 12:20 PM
Hey, would this thing work for opening remotely?

Obviously you would have to unlock the doors first and then hit the fob for the release, but..would it work?

http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=43943

ratman1648
11-15-2006, 12:23 PM
Hey, would this thing work for opening remotely?

Obviously you would have to unlock the doors first and then hit the fob for the release, but..would it work?

http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=43943
I would recommend the 4 channel version listed further down in that thread....as I said, you will need the relay setup I mentioned to make one of these work

pir8magnum
11-15-2006, 12:31 PM
Hmm, well the product reviews seem to indicate that its easily triggered by other remote entry vehicles. In my case, that would mean the hatch would constantly be opening.

Or, actually I guess it wouldnt since it only works if the doors are unlocked.

Why would you recommend a 4 channel version? For expandability? Or do the channels refer to RF channels (so you can set it to more than one)?

Sorry, Im just not much of an electrically minded dude.

I would recommend the 4 channel version listed further down in that thread....as I said, you will need the relay setup I mentioned to make one of these work

ratman1648
11-15-2006, 12:42 PM
Hmm, well the product reviews seem to indicate that its easily triggered by other remote entry vehicles. In my case, that would mean the hatch would constantly be opening.

Or, actually I guess it wouldnt since it only works if the doors are unlocked.

Why would you recommend a 4 channel version? For expandability? Or do the channels refer to RF channels (so you can set it to more than one)?

Sorry, Im just not much of an electrically minded dude.
I recommend it because it isn't specifically for high current lighting(headlamps) like the other one AND it has expandability

ratman1648
11-15-2006, 01:26 PM
BTW, the color code for the resistor is


Yellow..violet..orange..................gold

and it can be bought at most Radio Shacks

ratman1648
11-15-2006, 01:48 PM
I found a new site with info on gas springs. Here is the answer to the problem of too hard to close....High K-factor!

http://www.indgassprings.com/pages/prod_comb.html

ratman1648
11-15-2006, 04:50 PM
After doing some experimenting I found a way to make the hatch come up about 4-5 in. on its own as well as be easy to lift and close with a firm push. Sorry I don't have access to a cam. but this isn't hard to do.

parts needed:
from O'reilly auto parts- 2 HELP! Exhaust Flange Springs part# 03080

tools needed:
philips screwdriver
flat screwdriver
1/2" socket
T30 torx screwdriver
pliers are helpful but not needed

First: Remove the lower hatch panel by removing the two screws in the handle, then pull the panel off. There are several easy release plastic rivets holding it so be careful.

Second: Remove the weights on either corner. There are held on with two 1/2" nuts. DO NOT PUT THE NUTS BACK ON!!!! We will use them later.

Third: Reinstall the panel CAREFULLY.

Fourth: On either side next to the taillights is a rubber stopper block. Using the torx screwdriver remove the two bolts holding them on. I found that mine had a little rust buildup so this may take some extra effort. Just be sure the bit is well seated in the screw head.

Fifth: Remember those nuts from the weights? Well have them handy. What you will do is reinstall the rubber stopper blocks, using these as as a spacer. You want the large flat surface of the nut to be against the block. When putting the screws back in be sure to apply plenty of pressure until it is tight, BEING SURE NOT TO CROSS-THREAD IT!!!

Sixth: Unless you trust yourself you might want a second set of hands for this because the hatch is heavy. Do one side at a time. Partially remove the retaining clip for the strut ball mount ON THE HATCH SIDE ONLY by prying it up with the flat screwdriver, try not to completely remove it...the strut should easily come off. Push the retaining clip back on the socket.

Seventh: The pliers might come in handy here if you don't have a good grip. Screw the strut's socket mount off the end. IT IS TIGHT! Once you have it off with the rubber ring still on the shaft, slide one of the springs over the shaft then screw the socket back on.

Eighth: Snap the strut back on to the ball mount. Repeat steps 6-8 for the other side.

YOUR DONE!!!

Closing the hatch will require a firm push for the second lock on the latch to catch.....LMAO:mrgreen: :blam:

ratman1648
11-15-2006, 04:52 PM
I was able to get my liftgate to open completely on its own when I had the interior panels off.

pir8magnum
11-15-2006, 07:58 PM
We need some video here!

ratman1648
11-15-2006, 09:29 PM
I need some camera here!

Jaak
11-15-2006, 10:32 PM
Great work!!! I was curious if the trunk release button on the remote would work, but it ignores it. What? You don't have one on your key? Well, actually you do, they just didn't put the button on top, but if you pop it open, you'll see it's there.

Too bad, that would have been sick... Just get a Charger key and you'd be in business for a remote open without another fob. So how does the car know it's a Magnum and not a Charger?

ratman1648
11-15-2006, 11:23 PM
Great work!!! I was curious if the trunk release button on the remote would work, but it ignores it. What? You don't have one on your key? Well, actually you do, they just didn't put the button on top, but if you pop it open, you'll see it's there.

Too bad, that would have been sick... Just get a Charger key and you'd be in business for a remote open without another fob. So how does the car know it's a Magnum and not a Charger?
uh oh sounds like MF has another experiment for his Starscan

FreebirdSRT
11-15-2006, 11:52 PM
Great job on the front hatch release guys.

On the 300SRT there is a hatch release switch already, in the same location that the member put his on his Magnum.

I was wondering if you could order that switch from DCX and use it for a more OEM look?

Thanks again for the great find. I am going to shave the rear wiper arm and rear door handle this winter. You guys gave me another way to pop the hatch.

I am still going to relocate the rubber covered manual rear hatch button to just under the lip of the top part of the license plate light.

pir8magnum
11-16-2006, 07:13 AM
:popcorn:

uh oh sounds like MF has another experiment for his Starscan

ravenkeeper98
11-16-2006, 11:44 AM
I was thinking the same thing, if using the same switch for the Charger/300 would work as well. May have to give it a shot when I get home in Dec. I saw that plug behind my wife's Maggie when I was putting in her remote start. If someone does not beat me to it, when I get home, I will try to transplant my switch to hers and see it it works, probably just move the whole lower dash panel over. If it does work, can order the Charger lower dash panel and switch to make it look OEM. mmmmm another mod :beerchug:

Great job on the front hatch release guys.

On the 300SRT there is a hatch release switch already, in the same location that the member put his on his Magnum.

I was wondering if you could order that switch from DCX and use it for a more OEM look?

Thanks again for the great find. I am going to shave the rear wiper arm and rear door handle this winter. You guys gave me another way to pop the hatch.

I am still going to relocate the rubber covered manual rear hatch button to just under the lip of the top part of the license plate light.

ratman1648
11-16-2006, 02:22 PM
I was thinking the same thing, if using the same switch for the Charger/300 would work as well. May have to give it a shot when I get home in Dec. I saw that plug behind my wife's Maggie when I was putting in her remote start. If someone does not beat me to it, when I get home, I will try to transplant my switch to hers and see it it works, probably just move the whole lower dash panel over. If it does work, can order the Charger lower dash panel and switch to make it look OEM. mmmmm another mod :beerchug:
well the problem is, are you will to spend the hefty amount of money for that? It was mentioned by one of our techs here the first time this came up that the switch and the panel are one part and it is rather expensive.

I am thinking about offering a "plug and play" switch for those who want it but don't want to build it.....maybe a "$5-10, shipping included" kind of thing. Would there be enough interest to do this?

hemiwagn
11-16-2006, 09:39 PM
I have the factory switch -- it did not work on my magnum. It is just a plain momentary switch BUT I'll have to add the resistor now to see if that makes a difference.

ratman1648
11-16-2006, 11:18 PM
I have the factory switch -- it did not work on my magnum. It is just a plain momentary switch BUT I'll have to add the resistor now to see if that makes a difference.
hmmm, as I thought was the case before. Let us know about the resistor add-in...

FreebirdSRT
11-18-2006, 08:19 AM
I have the factory switch -- it did not work on my magnum. It is just a plain momentary switch BUT I'll have to add the resistor now to see if that makes a difference.


What up HEMIWAGN. Hope all is well. Please let us know how it goes when you add the resistor. Do you still have the part number for the factory switch?

saleensean
11-18-2006, 09:27 AM
the oem part number for the switch is 4760847AC. If i am correct the switch retails for around $5.00

hemiwagn
11-18-2006, 12:16 PM
What up HEMIWAGN. Hope all is well. Please let us know how it goes when you add the resistor. Do you still have the part number for the factory switch?

Picked up the resistor this morning.
One small problem though. I don't have a magnum to try it on (the car is at the shop for at least a few more weeks having the hood customized).

I'll have to borrow a magnum from somebody -- if you remove the headlight switch (easy) you can generally find the rear hatch harness. Any volunteers in the GTA?

ejsaenz
11-18-2006, 08:29 PM
Here's a link to a site I've found to have switches and gadgets for modding and other electronic projects. I've bought from this company for over 10 years and have never been disappointed.

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category/700325/Pushbutton.html

I hope this helps. I may end up ordering the metal switch with the recessed button so I don't accidentally hit the button.

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/PB-144/700325/HD_METAL_PUSHBUTTON,_FLAT_-_MOMENATRY,_N.O._.html

I've been known to pull the hood release instead of the parking brake lever!! :mrgreen:

Hope this helps!!

Jaak
11-18-2006, 10:25 PM
Picked up the resistor this morning.
One small problem though. I don't have a magnum to try it on (the car is at the shop for at least a few more weeks having the hood customized).

I'll have to borrow a magnum from somebody -- if you remove the headlight switch (easy) you can generally find the rear hatch harness. Any volunteers in the GTA?

What, is mine too close? :popcorn:

hemiwagn
11-18-2006, 10:29 PM
What, is mine too close? :popcorn:

yeah birthday boy (okay in 90 min) but you will be busy tomorrow...

Jaak
11-18-2006, 10:45 PM
Only in the AM, as I've laid down rules that I want to actually enjoy this one, not be a circus victim.

So we're having breakfast with my mum, but we should be back by lunch, or at least shortly after and I'll be around. I gots some playin' to do!!!!

Whoo Hooo, I'll be 30 just like you!!! (In hexadecimal, right now I'm 2F.)

hemiwagn
11-18-2006, 10:55 PM
Only in the AM, as I've laid down rules that I want to actually enjoy this one, not be a circus victim.

So we're having breakfast with my mum, but we should be back by lunch, or at least shortly after and I'll be around. I gots some playin' to do!!!!

Whoo Hooo, I'll be 30 just like you!!! (In hexadecimal, right now I'm 2F.)

love the 'circus victim' term. sums it up perfectly!

30 sounds a lot better than 110000 (binary) I guess, or 60 (48 in base 8). Hey I'll be 31 (hex) in a month plus a day! <math geeks>

I gotta work in the afternoon. Grand Fromage is attending the Cdn office for the first time. need to do some prep.

Jaak
11-18-2006, 11:12 PM
Doesn't that figure... Anything you want me to try?

hemiwagn
11-18-2006, 11:17 PM
Hmmmm, if your game, how does 1pm sound for 30 min?
I'd like to check out this hatch release switch and also check some stuff on the seat backs for the luggage strips Ultimate Pedals are making.

Jaak
11-19-2006, 12:16 AM
Sure, should be no problem!

pir8magnum
11-19-2006, 02:21 PM
So how'd it go?

:popcorn:

Pale Rider
11-20-2006, 03:13 PM
Why is the resistor needed, and how did you figure out what value to use?

Does the Charger/300 switch have this resistor already in place?

Jaak
11-20-2006, 04:50 PM
Why is the resistor needed, and how did you figure out what value to use?

Does the Charger/300 switch have this resistor already in place?

No it doesn't have it, but the Magnum's switch in the hatch, does.

So far I've seen speculation that it's a safety, so the hatch won't open if there's a short.

quarky42
11-20-2006, 05:20 PM
What jaak said. The resistor is there so the car's computer knows the difference between a short and an actual switch pull.

A short could come from some random damage to the wires... say someone is installing something in your dash and taps into those wires by mistake. (or they nick the wire and it grounds out against the chasis of the dash) They don't want the door coming open at random times.

Also if someone, somehow, taps into that circuit from the outside, they can't open the lock without also knowing the resistance to use. Not that it is hard, but it is an extra step. Theft deterrance is about making your car harder to open...nothing is ever impossible, but harder makes the thieves look for easier targets.

That resistor value is also found in some alarm manufacturer's "dealer" websites where they have some dealer only information. I saw the magnum in there with a note about the resistor and triggering it through a relay. I would think that the "ground" pulse from a remote start or alarm system aux output would be pleanty to trigger that hatch through the resistor. I'm going to be testing that theory as soon as I get the right value of resistor hooked up.

Jaak
11-20-2006, 10:35 PM
That should work, except you may have to compensate for the voltage drop across the driver transistor from the remote start or alarm system. Likely around 0.2 volts, so if it doesn't work, you'll have to reduce the resistance slightly.

The Service Manual shows the Magnum's switch for the Liftgate Release having the resistor and the Charger/300 just has the switch with no resistor. Both connect to pin 22 on connector C1 of the cluster called the "Decklid/Liftgate Release Switch Sense". Who would have ever guessed that!

Also from the Service Manual on page 8N-29:



12. LIFTGATE SWITCH INOPERATIVE.

Turn the Ignition Off.
Disconnect the Liftgate Release Switch connector.
Connect an ohmmeter between the terminals of the switch connector (Switch Side).
Press and hold the switch closed while measuring the resistance of the switch.

Is the resistance approximately 4700.0 ohms?

No >> Replace the liftgate switch.
Perform BODY VERIFICATION TEST - VER 1 (Refer to BODY VERIFICATION TEST - VER 1).

Yes



>> Go TO 13

Pale Rider
11-21-2006, 10:35 AM
No it doesn't have it, but the Magnum's switch in the hatch, does.

So far I've seen speculation that it's a safety, so the hatch won't open if there's a short.

So if the Magnum's switch in the hatch has the resistor, why are you adding one to the switch in the front end?

[Trust me, I'm not trying to "judge" the solutions, or be critical, just trying to learn]

ratman1648
11-21-2006, 11:30 AM
So if the Magnum's switch in the hatch has the resistor, why are you adding one to the switch in the front end?

[Trust me, I'm not trying to "judge" the solutions, or be critical, just trying to learn]
because simply shorting the wires together doesn't do anything....been tried MANY times with no success. It's something in the computer programming that says there has to be 4.7k ohm resistance for either button to work.

see here...this is how I figured it out.
http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=45999 (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=45999&highlight=harness)

Jaak
11-21-2006, 04:58 PM
Plus the resistor is "IN" the switch in the hatch, so you can't take advantage of that resistor. Which is why you have to add another up front. The switch wiring up front is in parallel with what goes to the back.

Pale Rider
11-21-2006, 06:14 PM
Great info guys. Thanks.

ratman1648
11-22-2006, 11:45 AM
so jaak, 7car7......WHEN ARE YA'LL GOING TO ORDER???:wink:

Jaak
11-22-2006, 12:45 PM
so jaak, 7car7......WHEN ARE YA'LL GOING TO ORDER???:wink:

Well, for me, this mod's useful, once the remote is figured out. I don't need the button up front, because I'm the one who's opening the hatch and I'll be there. But once the remote is figured out, those springs will be great, as I'll be using it with my hands full of stuff and won't be able to grab the built in handle so easily.

So we need someone with a starscan to do some digging and experimenting. :mrgreen:

TWIST3D BLACK MAG
11-22-2006, 12:47 PM
:popcorn:

ratman1648
11-22-2006, 02:17 PM
Well, for me, this mod's useful, once the remote is figured out. I don't need the button up front, because I'm the one who's opening the hatch and I'll be there. But once the remote is figured out, those springs will be great, as I'll be using it with my hands full of stuff and won't be able to grab the built in handle so easily.

So we need someone with a starscan to do some digging and experimenting. :mrgreen:
maybe you can do something with magic touch...

Pale Rider
11-22-2006, 04:11 PM
Yep, same here for me. I want to be able to hit a button on the remote and have it pop open. Even though it's a cool discovery, I'm not sure how usefull it is to ME right now.

The 300's don't have a latch on the outside, correct? That's why they need this. But if I'm in the car already, I most likely don't have arm loads of stuff keeping me from doing the latch in the back.

Another thing, I will only use a 300 style switch in the stock location, and that sounds too pricey.

I just don't think this is meeting my needs quite yet.

But like I said, it's a cool discovery, and I appreciate learning about stuff like this.

ratman1648
11-22-2006, 11:34 PM
Yep, same here for me. I want to be able to hit a button on the remote and have it pop open. Even though it's a cool discovery, I'm not sure how usefull it is to ME right now.

The 300's don't have a latch on the outside, correct? That's why they need this. But if I'm in the car already, I most likely don't have arm loads of stuff keeping me from doing the latch in the back.

Another thing, I will only use a 300 style switch in the stock location, and that sounds too pricey.

I just don't think this is meeting my needs quite yet.

But like I said, it's a cool discovery, and I appreciate learning about stuff like this.
have your read the install instructions on the order thread...you can just have an inch or less hanging out next to the hood release that way you don't alter the stockness of the car

eGo
08-29-2009, 01:52 AM
So Sorry to Drag up an oldy moldy here.. But, (and I read the whole thread, but my have missed it) will ANY momentary switch do for this? It doesn't "have" to be a trunk release switch right? If so, I gotta make another stop at Radio Shack tomorrow and get a resister and a momentary switch haha.. Gonna be installing a few electrical goodies next week I hope :D

eGo