Lets talk brakes: SRT8 Takeoffs vs Wilwoods vs Brembo Bigs

[CoolVanilla]

So I guess the time has come for me start thinking about brakes. I know there are three main options out there right now, and I'd like some feedback.

Please compare and contrast the performance of the SRT8 Brembos, vs the Wilwoods vs the Brembo big brake kit. How much can I expect to pay for each system? Is the price reflective of the performance? Any install concerns ect... Basically I'd like to open this up for anything you might feel is helpful in making this choice. If you're considering it also, or have already made your choice, pipe up too!

[Trojan]

Well for me Ive run stock and Ive run Brembo Gran Turismos. Not that I have, I would'nt go anywhere without my BBK. The extra stopping power is sick! Ive grown used to it.
I was lucky to find a used Gran Turismo kit on another forum for 3500.00.
Aside from typical bbk dust I have no complaints.
Cam's running the Wilwoods maybe he'll chime in. The stock srt 8 brembos are worthy as well. Good Luck. :mrgreen:
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b237/Hemified/brembos.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b237/Hemified/brembospic2.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b237/Hemified/brembospic.jpg

[Redfox0099]

The OEM Brembos are a lot better than the R/T brakes (my knowledge from having an R/T for a year before my SRT)

If you buy a Brembo Big brake kit it is expensive, if you buy someones Calipers from an SRT Take off then you have to buy Spindles apparently.
Either way you are going to be spending some money.

[lafrad]

From what I understand, Wilwood has a larger-rotor kit with the upgraded calipers, and I think they even threatend to go BIGGER on the rotors at some point in the past...

All for the 5.7L platform..

[Redfox0099]

An advantage of the Gran Turismo Kit from Brembo is that it's HUGE,.....8 piston caliper......and it is a direct bolt up, or so was for me.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y284/redfox0099/CIMG0963.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y284/redfox0099/CIMG0966.jpg

[armadillo]

I have the Wilwood brakes on my Magnum , and of course the SRT8 brakes on my Charger SRT8, Charger has the TSB upgrade with slotted rotors. I would rate the Wilwoods better all around than the stock SRT8 brakes, but both are a vast improvement over stock R/T brakes. The Wilwood setup I have from TCE performance is also almost dust free.

[MAGNUM8R]

I'd sure be interested in a take off set of SRT brakes, especially if they are direct bolt on!!
After watching, helping CAM install the Wilwood set, I was impressed.
I don't want to go that expense, but very nice.

CV be sure and bank the cash for the Caribbean before chunking out the change for brakes, I can't wait to get you and Lady Nilla down there!!:rock:

[lafrad]

I have the Wilwood brakes on my Magnum , and of course the SRT8 brakes on my Charger SRT8, Charger has the TSB upgrade with slotted rotors. I would rate the Wilwoods better all around than the stock SRT8 brakes, but both are a vast improvement over stock R/T brakes. The Wilwood setup I have from TCE performance is also almost dust free.

Thats a very *GREAT* review, considering the WIlwoods are a lot more feasible "Drop in" compared to the SRT setup!

[Cam]

Well if anyone here can give you a comprehensive evaluation between Brembo and Wilwood, it'a be Armadillo. And BTW, I find that very interesting John...........thanks. So anyhow, I'm more then happy with my set-up. I have looked at systems since day one with this ride. The prices always blew me away considering you could purchase a BBK for large trucks for much less money. The Wilwood set-up for me seemed the absolute best deal out there. I assume you have driven Matt's ride, if so, you already know :). I have not purchased the larger rotors and better pads from Wilwood yet. That's gonna happen any day now. But no matter what you do, it will come down to do you want to spend around 3g's or step up to the brembos and spend 6 or more. I looked at Stainless's system too, much cheaper then the Wilwood, but the kit looked too generic and I was hesitant about that. Call me silly................but when it comes to brakes.............one size fits all seems to not set well with me. All things considered, I have no problems with brake dust. I'm a very happy guy. Todd (TCE) is the man, I cannot recommend anybody more highly then him.

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c249/techpwrsparky/brake%20install/DSCI0010.jpg

[crhemi]

StopTech is also said to be a very good choice.
http://www.300cforums.com/forums/brake-discussion/3062-stoptech-4-wheel-big-brake-kit-installed.html
http://www.300cforums.com/forums/brake-discussion/6753-stoptech-brakes-under-black-20-wheels.html

[Super T]

Brembo, Wilwood, Stoptech, and I think Baer has a set out too.

[CoolVanilla]

'dillo, have you driven anything with the Brembo Bigs on it? I'm interested to hear your thoughts if so. Sounds to me based on your comments that the SRT8s and Wilwoods are fairly close and both are dramatically better than the RTs. I'm wondering if the improvement the Bigs offer over the Wilwoods is as dramatic as the improvement from RT to Wilwood (as the near 2x cost might indicate?)

Cam, so if I do go Wilwoods, are you my install man? I'm buyin the beer...

'8R... believe me dude, the BVI trip with you is weighing VERY heavily in every financial decision we're considering... we're still trying to work out the scheduling side...

Thanks everyone. I'm learning a ton.

[Cam]

CV, anytime buddy, you let me know and it's a go. After doing this one. It wouldn't take more then 2-3 hours to do it again. Besides, why go to some stuffy shop when you can come down here and have a bunch of drunk farting boneheads do it for-ya. :friday:

[lafrad]

CV, anytime buddy, you let me know and it's a go. After doing this one. It wouldn't take more then 2-3 hours to do it again. Besides, why go to some stuffy shop when you can come down here and have a bunch of drunk farting boneheads do it for-ya. :friday:

I need to live closer to california.

[obiwan]

I can only compare my stock RT brake to the wilwoods but the difference is night and day. No fade as hard as I have driven them, dust is not too bad but there is some. Once you bed them they are fantastic.

[armadillo]

'dillo, have you driven anything with the Brembo Bigs on it? I'm interested to hear your thoughts if so. Sounds to me based on your comments that the SRT8s and Wilwoods are fairly close and both are dramatically better than the RTs. I'm wondering if the improvement the Bigs offer over the Wilwoods is as dramatic as the improvement from RT to Wilwood (as the near 2x cost might indicate?)

Cam, so if I do go Wilwoods, are you my install man? I'm buyin the beer...

'8R... believe me dude, the BVI trip with you is weighing VERY heavily in every financial decision we're considering... we're still trying to work out the scheduling side...

Thanks everyone. I'm learning a ton.
Actually I have not driven anything with the Brembo Bigs yet:racing: , but if I can get Nathan to look the other way at the M&G at Hennessey's track next week I'll let you know. I'd love to see how that 426 stops from 125 or so in the 1/4:banana:

[Redfox0099]

Actually I have not driven anything with the Brembo Bigs yet:racing: , but if I can get Nathan to look the other way at the M&G at Hennessey's track next week I'll let you know. I'd love to see how that 426 stops from 125 or so in the 1/4:banana:
hehe he he he ....:racing: NO

[armadillo]

hehe he he he ....:racing: NO
NO! well ok, I guess I can't blame you, (don't turn your back though, I have taser that works on really big guys just fine) just kidding Nathan, I do want to see your car in action, :rock:

[lafrad]

After Seeing Nathan's brakes on the car, I have to say, that, on 20" SRT Wheels... there is room to go with a bigger Rotor.... Need to fill that wheel COMPLETELY!

Actually.. Those big brakes are the PERFECT size to fill the wheels.. and look freakin awesome on the road.

[Todd TCE]

Please note that those "Wilwood" kits are actually TCE kits shod with Wilwood parts. And of course TCE is your sole source for these aside from a couple business associates who will handle them on my behalf.

The front kits currently are 14". With the rears at 13".

However...I'm entertaining the idea of a larger front and rear design should someone wish to do so. We can do up to 16" front and 14.5" rears with proper wheel room. I just don't have anyone chomping at the bit to have me do it for them. Someone could swing some saving if they were willing to help....

[CoolVanilla]

Please note that those "Wilwood" kits are actually TCE kits shod with Wilwood parts. And of course TCE is your sole source for these aside from a couple business associates who will handle them on my behalf.

The front kits currently are 14". With the rears at 13".

However...I'm entertaining the idea of a larger front and rear design should someone wish to do so. We can do up to 16" front and 14.5" rears with proper wheel room. I just don't have anyone chomping at the bit to have me do it for them. Someone could swing some saving if they were willing to help....Oh hell... here we go...

Todd, lets talk. LOL I hope you have payment plan opltions. :Na_Na_Na_Na: :racing:

[Cam]

Please note that those "Wilwood" kits are actually TCE kits shod with Wilwood parts. And of course TCE is your sole source for these aside from a couple business associates who will handle them on my behalf.

The front kits currently are 14". With the rears at 13".

However...I'm entertaining the idea of a larger front and rear design should someone wish to do so. We can do up to 16" front and 14.5" rears with proper wheel room. I just don't have anyone chomping at the bit to have me do it for them. Someone could swing some saving if they were willing to help....


OH YA!!!!.....................PM me your deal Todd, I'm interested. :popcorn:

[lafrad]

I wanna know... what you THINK will be the biggest rotor that will fit underneath an 18" Steelie Police Package Rim (for winter tires)

[Todd TCE]

Answer; until the caliper rubs the wheel. No hard and fast rule on rotor OD based soley on wheel size. Custom rotors can be 15.3" or 15.6" so long as the caliper clears the wheel (weights!) then the rotor is sized to fit.

From experience I'll say that to do the big kits on this we'd do a min of 15.5" and prob just go to 16". Meaning you'll need 20s to fit.

It's all just an extension of the truck kits.

http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/images/bbkinstalled0037wo.jpg
A 16" kit reduced to 15.5" to fit a 19" wheel.

http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/images/CIMG1745_001.JPG
A 15" rear kit. (14.8 actually)

My goal; use the same rings on this car. Reason; keeping cost and cross over parts down a bit. Dedicated hats, brackets and hoses.


***Off the top of my head; Front kit $2900, Rear kit $2400 (Retail)

[Cam]

Hey Mr. Todd, I gots me an idear. I'm running 20's. I know I'll catch some flack for this statement. But this seems to be the most popular size for our rides (ya I know guys, flame away). What if I supplied you with the measurements of all that empty space I seem to have remaining........interested??.

[CoolVanilla]

I defer to my friend Cam on this Todd. If you guys can come to terms and work something out, by all means. I just can't financially justify it any time soon.

Git er done! And take notes... the bigger Wilwood kit you're putting together is the way I'll be going when the time comes.

[Cam]

I defer to my friend Cam on this Todd. If you guys can come to terms and work something out, by all means. I just can't financially justify it any time soon.

Git er done! And take notes... the bigger Wilwood kit you're putting together is the way I'll be going when the time comes.


Well at least the major expense is paid for. What could rotors and new brackets cost.............................................. .........a grand or two. :cry::doh: :blam: :blam: :blam:




Oh god, one day I'm gonna wake up neutered.

[CoolVanilla]

Well at least the major expense is paid for. What could rotors and new brackets cost.............................................. .........a grand or two. :cry::doh: :blam: :blam: :blam:




Oh god, one day I'm gonna wake up neutered.
Yep, and my wife is gonna be holding the knife... forwarding this on to her now...








:Na_Na_Na_Na:

[MAGNUM8R]

I think CV otta be on the near comp rate for a set from which ever Manufacturer wants to pony up.

What better way to get lots of testing and PR from the GIFO, MoFo, Super Moderator and one of the biggest LX affectionados of all???










Oh,
He's gonna need that extra cash to buy the Skipper drinks in the Caribbean in June!!http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y238/saildoggie/jester.gif

[Todd TCE]

I'll work up some sort of firm numbers on this tomorrow. I based the above on the info off the truck kits.

Here's what I'll do:

I'll post the retail price of the kit. Then the options available. Lastly I'll post the "buy it now" price for one lucky buyer. Don't expect half price....I wish it were that profitable! Terms will be 50% deposit to secure the deal. Balance upon completion.

The way I figure it I have your attention on it and that's cool. And if in a weeks time nobody jumps on it then I know we don't have much of a market for this afterall. Bottom line is that I'm treading cautiously on this one and not underwriting the cost without a buyer. The whole line is weaker than I'd expect for such a cool vehicle so I can't be saddled with a bunch of parts just to prove I can do it. For me; if I break even on things and can pay the forum bill for a few months it's a good deal.

[MattRobertson]

The TCE Wilwood kit has been everything I wanted it to be, and I spent $2500 less than I would have for a set of Gran Turismos. Apparently I spent only a little more than a set of SRT take-off's (although I did buy my Wilwood calipers and rotors on sale from TCE).

I agree that they are better than the SRT Brembo's, and I think they even offer you something few if any of the other big brake kits offer: Pad choices based on what you do with the car as opposed merely to how much dust you want to put up with.

With the SRT brakes you have the rotor scoring issues, which are solved with the slotted rotors you have to buy. Slotted rotors which are straight-vaned; not directionally-vaned, and smaller/thinner, with steel rather than aluminum hats if I am not mistaken.

With the Brembos you know you have essentially two pad choices. The stock ones which work great but which are horrible for dust. then there's the ceramics, which are fine for dust. The buy criteria is thus price and dust output.

With the Wilwoods you can choose your braking pads based on what you want to do with the car. There are several grades of pad and you can mix and match front and rear for an optimal solution.

http://tceperformanceproducts.com/pads.html

Most of these pads are out of our league, but just having the data available in the first place provides a nice education on pad characteristics (Todd recommended to me the BP-10 on the front and the T on the back for a first set), and you have choices where otherwise you don't.

The Wilwoods will work on stock rotors so you can do a budget deal for yourself and get into things in stages.

BTW the SSBS brakes are big time squealers according to Bob at SVS. I talked to him before doing this. I think the Zeckhausen brake kits may be an excellent option... they certainly offer the biggest rotors at 14" all around. But at $5k + install they were over my pain threshold.

[oldschool]

Side note..if I don't have $3-$6k in my pocket and my R/T brakes are getting nasty (horrible fade/pulsations with only moderate braking) what will an SRT package run from the factory? Are there any other decent options to step up from the R/T brakes without blowing up my credit card?

oldschool

[RobAGD]

you can snag a srt take off set at Cleveland pick a part for about $2500 and thats with spindles, and the mounting stuff needed for SRT to RT set up as I recall. You MAY need a master cylinder.

Meister has a take off set.

-R

[Scott]

I’m enthused to see the brake upgrades have gone well. However, it is not clear from your posts (Master Obiwan excepted), what the meaningful improvements are over the stock system that justify the $$.

From brake vendors, I understand the chief advantages of high-perf brake systems are durability and fade resistance, with slight improvements in stopping distance, and modulation. Is that what you guys have found?

Also, under what conditions do you notice the difference? I live in Wisconsin and can’t cruise for extended periods at 100+ mph like you guys in the SW. Fade isn’t an issue on the street. We also need brakes that are happy in snow and ice, so if anyone runs upgraded brakes in the snow belt that would be helpful to hear about.

Thx in advance,
Scott

[Todd TCE]

Side note..if I don't have $3-$6k in my pocket and my R/T brakes are getting nasty (horrible fade/pulsations with only moderate braking) what will an SRT package run from the factory? Are there any other decent options to step up from the R/T brakes without blowing up my credit card?

oldschool

Neither do I. But yes there are some options....the basic "Caliper kit" offers you both improvements in response, feel and those pad choices. Still $1500 due to the cost of radial mount parts.

BUT you don't need the 14" rotor for daily use and the average consumer. Won the loto this week? Ok, you can puchase those bigger 14" rotors later and still use the calipers you purchased last week.

That's the whole point in how I did this; one step or two, it's all up to what you want or can afford. Modular build.

Sadly no, you cannot use what we have here on the proposed "BIG" kits. Hey, I can only do so much!

[Ghostface Mag]

I Love the SRT8 Brembo factory setup compared to my old RT setup...With my heavy 22" wheels its SICK(in a Nice way)....Don't get me wrong its just a pricey as any other brake upgrade kit (buying knuckles all the way around etc...) but,its worth every dollar....

Check out some pics of the upgrade..
5700

5701

[MattRobertson]

...under what conditions do you notice the difference?With hard repeated use in spirited driving the stockers -- which are quite good in and of themselves as street brakes -- fade out really bad. I do a lot of driving on deserted country roads in the foothills and the mountains, and I really appreciate still having brakes when roaring down a 9% grade into a hairpin.

Big brake kits are not for everyone. If you do not already know for yourself that you need a brake upgrade, then you don't need a brake upgrade. Maybe get yourself some stainless braided lines to improve pedal feel (you owe yourself that nice little spiff) but if you haven't taken your car to the limits of its braking capability, and don't think you ever will, then you can spend the money on go-fast stuff...

...which will eventually make you need to upgrade your brakes...
:banana:

http://foohbar.com/magnum/wilwood_front.jpg
http://foohbar.com/magnum/wilwood_dyno.jpg
http://foohbar.com/magnum/wilwood_side.jpg

[obiwan]

Todd - I am so sorry for not mentioning that you were the vendor of these kits and without your brackets we would have nothing.

As for when you need them, in that moment when your attention is taken away for a second and you turn to see that traffic in front of you is stopped. And God forbid you have your kids with you.

The brakes are worth every dollar at that exact moment.

Spirited driving is a plus too :)

[LadyNilla]

...CV be sure and bank the cash for the Caribbean before chunking out the change for brakes, I can't wait to get you and Lady Nilla down there!!:rock:

YEA! You tell em!!!

"Let's talk brakes..." :doh: Sigh

[Todd TCE]

It's all good. I'm not offended, upset or anything.

I made very sure that Wilwood (the factory) was not going to service this vehicle before I began my quest. No point in trying to compete with your own supplier...been there and lost! LOL

The only reason I mention these as TCE kits and not Wilwood kits is that it often leads to confusion. (You call Wilwood however and they know who to refer you too) But I've been involved in other platforms where Ww has a bad rep based on other builder like myself supplying less than quality products. (think WRX)

When such things happen I defend Wilwood as NOT being the builder of the kit (as someone should my product if so referenced) and point out that their problems should be addressed to the kit builder/supplier not the caliper manufacture.

The goal of this kit and all TCE product is to supply the consumer with an package that meets the needs of the intended user at an affordable price point. Is it "the best" you can purchase if you plan on open track road racing for example? Ehh, I can do better. But not at the price point we've targeted. I have single calipers that sell for what the entire front kit sells for....but there's not much market for a $8k front brake kit with only hard core track pads and the need for one inch wheel spacers!

PS, love that rear pic!

[Scott]

If you do not already know for yourself that you need a brake upgrade, then you don't need a brake upgrade. Maybe get yourself some stainless braided lines to improve pedal feel (you owe yourself that nice little spiff)

Thanks Matt. No mountains with long grades to heat brakes in Wisconsin, just rollin hills. For example, one or two corners are on declining grade, the next two are uphill. It’s a lot of fun to put the brakes on all-the-way, but this is done infrequently, as street conditions typically dictate leaving some brake in reserve. Then there are the deer, 20,000+ collisions/yr in Wisc. between cars and deer. (I root for deer hunters – go get’em!) So anyway that’s why brake fade in my locale is mainly an issue on the track.

However, I’m an unhappy member of the warped rotor club, so I’ve been thread watching for an upgrade to something more durable.

Thanks also for the reminder about steel lines. I looked a long time ago and couldn’t find any standard kits, but, I bet they are available now.

Nice pics, especially in motion on the dyno. I looked really close for the porno and didn't see anything. Do I need special decoder glasses or something? :)

[Todd TCE]

Ok, as promised the pricing is completed on the BIG kits.
http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?p=578912#post578912

$2829 front and $2195 rear.
$5090 total plus options.

For the "Buy it Now" deal. $4250 SHIPPED plus options. Includes 4pk of fluid and a bleeder bottle as well. AZ sale subject to sales tax but I'll install for free in place of shipping costs.

Terms and conditions: Half prepaid, balance upon completion. Buyer needs to be mechanically inclined to aide in final fit and finish due to some unknowns. I do not see any problems with front fit but rear will likely take a big of communications between us. *Not for the weekend driveway mechanic. Build time; 3-5 weeks. Can begin work on Monday.

** As suggested; these kits are built based on the data of RWD only. I have no data about difference between this and cars with AWD. If the front hubs and knuckles are the same (a splined hub with no axle on RWD) then I see no problems but would suggest some help with verifications first.

[Hemi31]

Ok, as promised the pricing is completed on the BIG kits.
http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?p=578912#post578912

$2829 front and $2195 rear.
$5090 total plus options.

For the "Buy it Now" deal. $4250 SHIPPED plus options. Includes 4pk of fluid and a bleeder bottle as well. AZ sale subject to sales tax but I'll install for free in place of shipping costs.

Terms and conditions: Half prepaid, balance upon completion. Buyer needs to be mechanically inclined to aide in final fit and finish due to some unknowns. I do not see any problems with front fit but rear will likely take a big of communications between us. *Not for the weekend driveway mechanic. Build time; 3-5 weeks. Can begin work on Monday.I think you need to specify if this will fit AWD cause I believe thats what Scott has.

[Meister]

you can snag a srt take off set at Cleveland pick a part for about $2500 and thats with spindles, and the mounting stuff needed for SRT to RT set up as I recall. You MAY need a master cylinder.

Meister has a take off set.

-RNew master cylinder not required. Use the new factory pads if going circuit racing. Otherwise the dustless ceramics are perfect.

Note that installing the SRT8 spindles (required, if installing SRT8 Brembos) lowers your ride the 7/8" or so that the SRT8s sit lower than a C or an R/T.

[MattRobertson]

As for when you need them, in that moment when your attention is taken away for a second and you turn to see that traffic in front of you is stopped. And God forbid you have your kids with you...The brakes are worth every dollar at that exact moment.I focus so much on the playground stuff I forget the day-to-day; but Obiwan is dead on the money.

Picture an imaginary line with brakes on one side and tires on the other, and a spot in the middle that is a balancing point, like a fulcrum on a childrens' teeter-totter. When you upgrade the brakes on these cars you are shifting the balancing point for your braking system's weakest link away from brakes and back over to the tires. If you get yourself a set of brakes that will stop wheel rotation instantly -- for the sake of argument -- then the tires need to stick to the ground pretty hard, since its the tires that actually stop the car. They won't and you will wind up having ABS kick in and take away your braking advantage.

When I got the big brakes on, one thing I did notice was it was a lot easier to get my 420-treadwear Proxes tires to lose traction while braking, and I saw ABS kick in noticeably more frequently. So the brakes wanted to stop the car harder than the tires could do the job.

When I went to the Goodyear RS-A's, which have 260 treadwear, that all changed. Now I have to really be doing something crazy to get ABS to pop into the picture (and yes I have done that :-) ).

[STAGE 3 R/T]

if I could I would take a set of Brembo's!

[Trojan]

Cams front Brakes close up, Nickel Plated Rotors,:Na_Na_Na_Na:They look sweeeet!
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b237/Hemified/Hooters%20MG/camsbrakes.jpg

[MattRobertson]

Just crossed paths with this old thread and since it died out I had a chance to run the SRT Experience again, where I was driving SRT's uber-hard at Laguna Seca.

Last year's SRT Experience taught me how great the SRT brakes were compared to the stock RT's. After several months of driving the Wilwood Stage 2's I went back for a track day on the SRT Brembo's. My impression was the same as what Armadillo reports. The Wilwoods are superior to the SRT brakes. Considering that a set of SRT take-off's from a wrecking yard is almost the same price as a new Wilwood kit, I would not consider the SRT Brembo's as a big brake option unless the price got a lot lower.

In fairness, the mushy feel I felt at Laguna was reported by Ozzie to be the same, and his not-so-abused brakes were not that soft. Still, the stopping power was either a little less or the same, at the very best.

It seems with SRT Brembo brakes you two pad choices. The stockers that perform well but toss corrosive dust onto your rims in quantity, or the ceramic pads that don't stop as well. And I hear nothing but performance complaints from my SRT brethren who drive their cars hard, have the new slotted rotors and remember what the old solids stopped like.

[Meister]

...I hear nothing but performance complaints from my SRT brethren who drive their cars hard, have the new slotted rotors and remember what the old solids stopped like.Aha. Very interesting, Matt, since the original rotors on my Brembo take-offs were toast and thus my total experience with the SRT Brembos has been on the slotted, TSB, rotors.

That would explain why their feel is essentially identical to the stock 300C brakes, which were outstanding for a factory standard brake. Not a complaint, merely an observation that is now more understandable.

Greenies to you, my friend. :beerchug:

[oldschool]

Does anyone feel like their slotted/drilled rotors seem to last longer between cuts/resurfacing? I don't drive my R/T terribly hard but as I have posted on alot of other threads they seem to fade and pulsate without much stop and go. For the driving I do I want a better performing rotor and I happen to like my R/T feel/progressiveness. Sure braided lines would be great but for an everyday kind of commute with some weekend romping would I notice a difference in fade/pulsating with a better ventilated/slotted set of rotors? Should I slot/drill my rears when I replace them?

Thanks!
oldschool

[oldschool]

Also, I posted a set of literally almost new (500 miles) brembo slotted takeoff on ebay for 1895 plus ship. I was shocked not one person bid!

oldschool

[MattRobertson]

Aha. Very interesting, Matt, since the original rotors on my Brembo take-offs were toast and thus my total experience with the SRT Brembos has been on the slotted, TSB, rotors.
A lot of what I mean by 'complaints' was a general BS session at the SRT TE this year. There was a fair bit of bitching about the brakes the night before. In casual conversation with Ozzie, he noted that he opted to keep the dusty stock pads so as to not sacrifice braking ability, which the ceramic pads are known to do.

Not exactly a shock. You either get no dust or, as you ramp up the pads, you get more dust and squeal. The thing I like about the Wilwoods is you have so many pad options while the Brembos don't.

To hear that feel is as bad as the stockers is a bit of a shock. While I agree that the stock brakes are wonderful as stockers go, you should be doing better than that; although again I was really unimpressed with the feel of the SRT TE cars.

Also, I posted a set of literally almost new (500 miles) brembo slotted takeoff on ebay for 1895 plus ship. I was shocked not one person bid!For that price, they might be worth it. Maybe. The pricing I have seen elsewhere is around 3k. Definitely not worth that considering a Stage II TCE Wilwood kit is only a few hundred bucks more ... and a Stage I is way underneath.

[Todd TCE]

Just FYI, trying all these different rotors is not going to change the braking performance of your car. Slots, holes, both, nothing the math remains the same. The rotor is X" in OD, and Y" in width. The torque value is the same, the mass is the same. About the only valid point is that you 'might' find one brand of rotor has a wider or narrower air gap and argue air flow or lack of it.

Putting holes in it or slots on it (or both which is redundant but the look) will only go to aid in pad wiping and venting. In many cases this is done by pad blocking on the backing plate also. If changing from a blank to one full of holes and NOT changing the pads (seldom the case right?) makes a difference then the pad you had was not capable of managing the heat or Cf well. A better pad on a rotor not full of holes for you track guys would do the same with less chance of cracking.

In all cases the rotor finish is simply wiping or enhancing the pad wear. This is not a bad thing mind you, it simply makes the pads work at their optimum level. It makes what braking you have the best it can be, but does not elevate the torque value or decrease the duty cycle as a larger and or fatter rotor will.

[oldschool]

I feel i need more venting because my rotors seem to warp/heat up easily so the slotted/drilled sounds like my best bet.

oldschool

[Todd TCE]

I agree. Hence the 1.25" wide rotor on the STAGE II kit. But...fitting a wider rotor with such venting is not going to happen on a stock set up. You "might" be able to work up a wide DV rotor package (two piece) that improves cooling but the rotor walls will be thinner as well. It's a trade off.

[Hemi31]

And I hear nothing but performance complaints from my SRT brethren who drive their cars hard, have the new slotted rotors and remember what the old solids stopped like.But most of those guys have the dust free ceramic pads.Personnaly I think the car stops as well or better with the new rotors....but I put up with the dust!

[OLJustice]

Can someone provide a comprehensive list of what is needed for a R/T to Factor SRT8 Brembo upgrade when all one has are the 4 rotors/pads (pairs)/calipers? Exactly what else would I need?

[RobAGD]

OLJustince - As someone that has done that swap, and I got everything silly cheap I would say that you are WAY WAY WAY better off getting the Willwood kit vs the SRT Take offs.

I have the Brembos and they work well. Ill find out in a month or so how well they work on the track, but for close to the same money ( depending on your pricing on the SRT bits ) you can get a BETTER brake kit from Willwood and you can do it in stages if you like.

Install the Caliper Kit first then later add the Big rotors for the finishing touches to the kit.

ToddTCE is a solid guy to deal with give him a ring.

The brembos is one thing that I mildly regret doing, I should have gone with the willwoods, but the price I got all the SRT stuff for was too good at the time

But you would need the rear Knuckles and dust shields and brake line, and in the front you need the spindle and dust shield and brake line and all the mounting hardware.

-Robert

[OLJustice]

RobAGD, how much did you pay for the SRT8 knuckles? Any good places to get them other than stealership. Also, I gather that I'll just need front and rear knuckles and not 'spindles'?

[RobAGD]

OLJ - I got everying for about the cost of the front Spindles assemblies. IN the rear you need the knuckle in the front its what I would call a spindle.

Getting all the stuff new from a deal your looking at $5000 as I recall, if you can get jobber pricing your looking at $3500 ish and if you get it some a salvage yard like Cleveland Pick a Part you looking at 2-2500 for everything you need.

Again my suggestion as someone that has done this is to go with the willwood kit.

-R

[xlr8tr]

Todd at TCE set me up with the stage 2 W6A setup (the first one Todd?), and it is killer vs stock. Pedal feel way up, grabs instantly vs stock that seemed to take a long time to grab. Lockup is easy to achieve vs stock that was virtually impossible (22's have lots to do with this i'm sure...).

I havent had the ability to do stopping distance check due to weather, but it will likely be a bit better, I'm thinking just from how quick and hard it grabs. Near instant maximum deceleration with Wilwoods vs gradually increasing deceleration with stockers.

[MattRobertson]

I've been real curious to see the W6A's mounted. Pist PICS!

[Shakin]

Please note that those "Wilwood" kits are actually TCE kits shod with Wilwood parts. And of course TCE is your sole source for these aside from a couple business associates who will handle them on my behalf.

The front kits currently are 14". With the rears at 13".

However...I'm entertaining the idea of a larger front and rear design should someone wish to do so. We can do up to 16" front and 14.5" rears with proper wheel room. I just don't have anyone chomping at the bit to have me do it for them. Someone could swing some saving if they were willing to help....

Todd will those current kits work on 18inch wheels?

[Todd TCE]

Diameter wise; certainly. The same 14" rotor is used on the W6a kit as was used on the former BSL6r kit. (yes I can still do them if requested)

The body overhang is greater however on the W6a so it takes up some more room behind the spokes. As in nearly 3/8" of space. The W6a caliper is a step up on performance for caliper stiffness and mass. However it comes with a few quirks; size, cost and a few less choices in pads- which are currently only Wilwood branded.

That being said I can get you a kit out in a matter of a few days if you'd like to give them a go!

[MattRobertson]

Shakin, Contact Mighty Noid and ask to see the recent thread where he posted pics of his Wilwood kit fitting inside of the 18" wheels. He took some closeups and I think 3/8" is do-able on the stock wheels. He will know for sure though since he has them on his car right now.

[xlr8tr]

I've been real curious to see the W6A's mounted. Pist PICS!

I'll try, I'm a bit teknikaly challunged on the whole pic posting thing, but hey gotta start somewhere...

[xlr8tr]

http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj310/baji_2008/?action=view&current=DSC02635.jpg

[xlr8tr]

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj310/baji_2008/DSC02635.jpghttp://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj310/baji_2008/DSC02640.jpg

not the best pics with a flash, but thats a start... I'll try to get better ones!

[Mighty Noid]

I took a few pictures this morning before it started to rain again.

I am posting one picture here and if you click on it, it will take you to the link with the rest of them. I hope that this helps...

Just let me know if I can help more...

http://inlinethumb14.webshots.com/39885/2805292700051259779S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2805292700051259779eGPqOW)