RTjunkie
11-07-2006, 02:18 AM
Alrighty folks! Yet another experimentation by yours-truly!
Major props go out to Trevor who stumbled upon a pinout diagram in the service manual for the Dynamic Sensor Supply.
I would like to include a small foreword before continuing. Please understand that this mod requires disassembly of a portion of your interior in order to gain access to the DSS module. You will also be required to splice into a factory wire and wire both ends to a switch. If this is something you are uncomfortable with, but would still like to have the effect this mod creates, then please see NoESP for an alternative method that is less invasive. (www.noesp.com) Understand that the NoESP mod will cost significantly more to install than my version, but I am by no means suggesting any competition here. This method is for the DIY'ers, while the NoESP mod is designed as a "bolt-on" turn-key solution.
I'm sure some of you have read about the "snip this wire under the hood at the ABS module", etc, etc, that disabled ESP. Well, in fact, this is similar, but a MUCH better solution!
The Violet/Lt. Blue wire (#22 at the ABS module) in fact runs to a sensor under the floor console. This is the Dynamic Sensor Supply module, and is nothing more than a reasonably advanced accelerometer. Those that are unaware of what that is, let me explain.
An accelerometer's purpose is to use multiple internal sensors to try and judge the movement of the object it is mounted to. These sensors are setup internally in different positions to measure accel/decel rates in multiple directions. G-forces are also measured through this device. The rating that some might have seen about 0.8 G's being the limit before ESP/BAS begins to take over, is in fact a number that is recieved directly from this DSS module. It is this module that tells the car how many g-forces you're pulling while turning. Combine that figure with other data such as steering wheel position, throttle position, speed of rotation of the rear wheels, as well as front wheel rotation speed. All of these figures are used by the PCM to make precise calculations on what assistance the computer should apply to the car to keep itself (and the occupant) safe!
Now, on with the mod!
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES NEEDED:
1 Phillips-head screwdriver to remove the floor console
1 10mm (I think) socket to remove the floor console
1 pair of wire strippers/crimpers
2 butt-style connectors
2 crimp on connectors that fit your selected switch.
2 strands of wire, about 14" in length
1 Single Pole / Single Throw switch
Ok, now that you know what the module does, lets cover the wires. It has 4 wires running into it. A positive power wire, a ground wire, a Data-High wire, and a Data-Low wire. Obviously we know what the power wires do. The other two are the wires that communicate accross the CAN-Bus with the PCM. We're not messing with these, but this way you know what they are. :)
Now for the connection between the other versions of this mod, and this one!
The other versions of the ESP mod have you cut a wire that enters the ABS module connector. The wire that you are cutting is in fact one of the very wires that runs to the DSS module! What wire is it? Well, that's the irony..it's the positive power wire! In essence, all you've done is to interrupt the power supply to the DSS module, preventing it from having power. What does this do? Well...simple...it makes the PCM think there is a problem with the module, so it then ignores it thinking that it is malfunctioning. That means nothin but playtime! :D
Now for some pics.
First, you'll need to remove the floor console to gain access to the area you need to work in.
To remove the floor console, please use the following instructions as a guide:
Remove the chrome shifter bezel first. It has 4 tabs the go straight down from the edge of the bezel, and each tab has little ridges to help hold it in place. Place a thumb on each side of the inner rim and work it straight up. It'll pop right off.
Next, remove the semi-curved rubber tray that sits in front of the silver shifrer bezel. There are two screws there, remove those and set them aside. Next, it is easiest to remove the center bezel for the radio & a/c. To remove this, you'll use the slot just above the ashtray to get some grip. Apply a bit of pressure...enough to grip it without slipping, to the top of the inside of the slot. Kinda like you were gonna pick the dash up with that slot. You won't need to push up very hard...again, just enough to get some grip. With that grip, you'll pull the bezel towards the shifter. There are 6 tabs that you'll be releasing. Two are at the bottom corners of the bezel. Two more just at the top of the radio, on the outer edges, and the last two at the very top.
Once you've freed the bezel, carefully disconnect the wires from the back of it and set the bezel aside. Now you can move on to the ash reciever panel.
there are two clips on this panel at the very top on the outer edges. With the center bezel removed, you should have tons of room to get a firm grip on this panel to pull it out. Again, pull it towards the shifter. This panel has 3 wire sets hooked to it. (If you have the heated seats.) One for each heated seat button, and one for the cig lighter in the ashtray. You can choose whether or not to disconnect them if you wish. Either way, you'll find a screw just below the hole where the clips attatched on either side. Remember that when reassembling everything, this panel must be reinstalled FIRST after the floor console has been replaced into its proper position. If you replace the center stack bezel first, you won't be able to get this panel back in because of the cig lighter plug sticking out too far.
With these 4 screws removed, you only have the remaining 3 bolts to remove from the bottom of the bucket under the rubbery insert at the bottom. Remove those 3 bolts, and the entire floor console will be free.
To remove the console easily, put your key in the ignition and turn it to ACC. apply the parking brake firmly, and then apply the brakes. Place the car in [N] to move the shifter out of the way so allow the console to slide out easily. While you're at it, tune into your favorite radio station so you've got something to listen to. :)
Pulling the console out is pretty simple, just aim the rear vents toward the roof, so that you've got a "handle" to use on the rear of the console. With your cupholder open, use the ridge at the top of the cupholder area, where the top of the door meets the trim to grasp the console with your other hand. Easily work the console towards the rear seats, and up slightly to free it from the rear vent air passage. Slide the console back a few inches, and then lift the entire front of the console straight up. This will give you access to the cig lighter connector for the adapter in the bucket. This connector has a clip shaped like a rounded "M" that you'll need to depress to free it. Once it's released, keep the front up, and lift the back of the console and slide it back the rest of the way onto the rear seats. This will give you all the room you need to work.
Once you've completed the mod, simply reverse the entire process to put everything back together.
Once you have the floor console removed, you'll see the module bolted down to the floor, behind the shifter assembly by two bolts, with a wire harness plugged in that contains the 4 wires discussed earlier.
Here is a pic of the module taken from the driver's seat. I have already unplugged the harness here.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e332/datasurge/ESP%20Mod/IMGP1574.jpg
We will be basically doing the same thing as unplugging this module, except we're doing it with a switch spliced into the positive power wire.
Here you can see the pin-side of the connector. It does has 6 pinouts, but only 4 are actually used. The only reason I can imagine for having a 6-pin connector is for future use. Potentially a different module that could be used later on that uses 6 wires instead of 4.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e332/datasurge/ESP%20Mod/IMGP1575.jpg
Here you can see the 4 wires we're working with. The two we're concerned with are the purple wires with blue stripes. The negative wire is the one with the DARK BLUE stripe. We are not cutting this wire. The wire with the LIGHT BLUE stripe is the positive power wire, and the one we will be modifying.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e332/datasurge/ESP%20Mod/IMGP1576.jpg
At this point, you can start your car if you want and you will see immediately that your ESP/BAS and Traction Control lamps both illuminate and stay on. This is the proper result of initiating the disable. You will also be greeted with a chime.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e332/datasurge/ESP%20Mod/IMGP1577.jpg
Now lets modify the wire! We are going to cut the PURPLE wire with the LIGHT BLUE stripe, like this:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e332/datasurge/ESP%20Mod/IMGP1579.jpg
Once this wire has been cut, strip a very small amount of the jacket from one side of the harness wire, and from one of the wire strands. No more than about 3/8"-1/2" should be stripped from each end. Here you will use one of the butt connectors , and the strand of wire, and splice them together. Once you have completed this, strip the other end of the splice wire (shown in red below) and crimp on one of the switch connectors.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e332/datasurge/ESP%20Mod/IMGP1581.jpg
Now repeat the above step to attatch the second wire to the other harness wire. When done, you should now have two long strands that extend the length of the original snipped wire.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e332/datasurge/ESP%20Mod/IMGP1582.jpg
Now you should grab your switch. It's time to test everything and make sure it all works properly. The switch I chose had a ground terminal. We won't need this terminal. If the switch you use has 3 terminals, one is a ground, and the other two will be used to allow power to pass through or not.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e332/datasurge/ESP%20Mod/IMGP1583.jpg
Connect your wire ends to the terminals, like this:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e332/datasurge/ESP%20Mod/IMGP1584.jpg
At this point you should reattatch the connector to the DSS module so we can test the install.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e332/datasurge/ESP%20Mod/IMGP1585.jpg
Be sure the switch is in the ON position before you start the car, just for the purpose of this test. Once you have confirmed this, go ahead and start the car. Allow all of your dash lights to go out like normal. Do not touch your stock ESP Disable button, you won't need to anymore anyway. Flip the switch, and your ESP/BAS Light, and Traction Control light will both illuminate like I pictured above. You will also get a chime. If you get all of this, then your install is functioning properly!
Now you must choose a location to install the switch on the floor console. I chose to install mine inside the "bucket" where the coin holders are. I mounted it just below the slot for the quarters, and set it so that the switch in the ON position is faced towards the wall of the bucket. This will reduce the possibility of something inside the bucket from knocking the ESP off without warning.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e332/datasurge/ESP%20Mod/IMGP1586.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e332/datasurge/ESP%20Mod/IMGP1589.jpg
Now you should just button everything back up, and GO HAVE SOME FUN!
Hope this was helpful to you all!!
Major props go out to Trevor who stumbled upon a pinout diagram in the service manual for the Dynamic Sensor Supply.
I would like to include a small foreword before continuing. Please understand that this mod requires disassembly of a portion of your interior in order to gain access to the DSS module. You will also be required to splice into a factory wire and wire both ends to a switch. If this is something you are uncomfortable with, but would still like to have the effect this mod creates, then please see NoESP for an alternative method that is less invasive. (www.noesp.com) Understand that the NoESP mod will cost significantly more to install than my version, but I am by no means suggesting any competition here. This method is for the DIY'ers, while the NoESP mod is designed as a "bolt-on" turn-key solution.
I'm sure some of you have read about the "snip this wire under the hood at the ABS module", etc, etc, that disabled ESP. Well, in fact, this is similar, but a MUCH better solution!
The Violet/Lt. Blue wire (#22 at the ABS module) in fact runs to a sensor under the floor console. This is the Dynamic Sensor Supply module, and is nothing more than a reasonably advanced accelerometer. Those that are unaware of what that is, let me explain.
An accelerometer's purpose is to use multiple internal sensors to try and judge the movement of the object it is mounted to. These sensors are setup internally in different positions to measure accel/decel rates in multiple directions. G-forces are also measured through this device. The rating that some might have seen about 0.8 G's being the limit before ESP/BAS begins to take over, is in fact a number that is recieved directly from this DSS module. It is this module that tells the car how many g-forces you're pulling while turning. Combine that figure with other data such as steering wheel position, throttle position, speed of rotation of the rear wheels, as well as front wheel rotation speed. All of these figures are used by the PCM to make precise calculations on what assistance the computer should apply to the car to keep itself (and the occupant) safe!
Now, on with the mod!
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES NEEDED:
1 Phillips-head screwdriver to remove the floor console
1 10mm (I think) socket to remove the floor console
1 pair of wire strippers/crimpers
2 butt-style connectors
2 crimp on connectors that fit your selected switch.
2 strands of wire, about 14" in length
1 Single Pole / Single Throw switch
Ok, now that you know what the module does, lets cover the wires. It has 4 wires running into it. A positive power wire, a ground wire, a Data-High wire, and a Data-Low wire. Obviously we know what the power wires do. The other two are the wires that communicate accross the CAN-Bus with the PCM. We're not messing with these, but this way you know what they are. :)
Now for the connection between the other versions of this mod, and this one!
The other versions of the ESP mod have you cut a wire that enters the ABS module connector. The wire that you are cutting is in fact one of the very wires that runs to the DSS module! What wire is it? Well, that's the irony..it's the positive power wire! In essence, all you've done is to interrupt the power supply to the DSS module, preventing it from having power. What does this do? Well...simple...it makes the PCM think there is a problem with the module, so it then ignores it thinking that it is malfunctioning. That means nothin but playtime! :D
Now for some pics.
First, you'll need to remove the floor console to gain access to the area you need to work in.
To remove the floor console, please use the following instructions as a guide:
Remove the chrome shifter bezel first. It has 4 tabs the go straight down from the edge of the bezel, and each tab has little ridges to help hold it in place. Place a thumb on each side of the inner rim and work it straight up. It'll pop right off.
Next, remove the semi-curved rubber tray that sits in front of the silver shifrer bezel. There are two screws there, remove those and set them aside. Next, it is easiest to remove the center bezel for the radio & a/c. To remove this, you'll use the slot just above the ashtray to get some grip. Apply a bit of pressure...enough to grip it without slipping, to the top of the inside of the slot. Kinda like you were gonna pick the dash up with that slot. You won't need to push up very hard...again, just enough to get some grip. With that grip, you'll pull the bezel towards the shifter. There are 6 tabs that you'll be releasing. Two are at the bottom corners of the bezel. Two more just at the top of the radio, on the outer edges, and the last two at the very top.
Once you've freed the bezel, carefully disconnect the wires from the back of it and set the bezel aside. Now you can move on to the ash reciever panel.
there are two clips on this panel at the very top on the outer edges. With the center bezel removed, you should have tons of room to get a firm grip on this panel to pull it out. Again, pull it towards the shifter. This panel has 3 wire sets hooked to it. (If you have the heated seats.) One for each heated seat button, and one for the cig lighter in the ashtray. You can choose whether or not to disconnect them if you wish. Either way, you'll find a screw just below the hole where the clips attatched on either side. Remember that when reassembling everything, this panel must be reinstalled FIRST after the floor console has been replaced into its proper position. If you replace the center stack bezel first, you won't be able to get this panel back in because of the cig lighter plug sticking out too far.
With these 4 screws removed, you only have the remaining 3 bolts to remove from the bottom of the bucket under the rubbery insert at the bottom. Remove those 3 bolts, and the entire floor console will be free.
To remove the console easily, put your key in the ignition and turn it to ACC. apply the parking brake firmly, and then apply the brakes. Place the car in [N] to move the shifter out of the way so allow the console to slide out easily. While you're at it, tune into your favorite radio station so you've got something to listen to. :)
Pulling the console out is pretty simple, just aim the rear vents toward the roof, so that you've got a "handle" to use on the rear of the console. With your cupholder open, use the ridge at the top of the cupholder area, where the top of the door meets the trim to grasp the console with your other hand. Easily work the console towards the rear seats, and up slightly to free it from the rear vent air passage. Slide the console back a few inches, and then lift the entire front of the console straight up. This will give you access to the cig lighter connector for the adapter in the bucket. This connector has a clip shaped like a rounded "M" that you'll need to depress to free it. Once it's released, keep the front up, and lift the back of the console and slide it back the rest of the way onto the rear seats. This will give you all the room you need to work.
Once you've completed the mod, simply reverse the entire process to put everything back together.
Once you have the floor console removed, you'll see the module bolted down to the floor, behind the shifter assembly by two bolts, with a wire harness plugged in that contains the 4 wires discussed earlier.
Here is a pic of the module taken from the driver's seat. I have already unplugged the harness here.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e332/datasurge/ESP%20Mod/IMGP1574.jpg
We will be basically doing the same thing as unplugging this module, except we're doing it with a switch spliced into the positive power wire.
Here you can see the pin-side of the connector. It does has 6 pinouts, but only 4 are actually used. The only reason I can imagine for having a 6-pin connector is for future use. Potentially a different module that could be used later on that uses 6 wires instead of 4.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e332/datasurge/ESP%20Mod/IMGP1575.jpg
Here you can see the 4 wires we're working with. The two we're concerned with are the purple wires with blue stripes. The negative wire is the one with the DARK BLUE stripe. We are not cutting this wire. The wire with the LIGHT BLUE stripe is the positive power wire, and the one we will be modifying.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e332/datasurge/ESP%20Mod/IMGP1576.jpg
At this point, you can start your car if you want and you will see immediately that your ESP/BAS and Traction Control lamps both illuminate and stay on. This is the proper result of initiating the disable. You will also be greeted with a chime.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e332/datasurge/ESP%20Mod/IMGP1577.jpg
Now lets modify the wire! We are going to cut the PURPLE wire with the LIGHT BLUE stripe, like this:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e332/datasurge/ESP%20Mod/IMGP1579.jpg
Once this wire has been cut, strip a very small amount of the jacket from one side of the harness wire, and from one of the wire strands. No more than about 3/8"-1/2" should be stripped from each end. Here you will use one of the butt connectors , and the strand of wire, and splice them together. Once you have completed this, strip the other end of the splice wire (shown in red below) and crimp on one of the switch connectors.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e332/datasurge/ESP%20Mod/IMGP1581.jpg
Now repeat the above step to attatch the second wire to the other harness wire. When done, you should now have two long strands that extend the length of the original snipped wire.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e332/datasurge/ESP%20Mod/IMGP1582.jpg
Now you should grab your switch. It's time to test everything and make sure it all works properly. The switch I chose had a ground terminal. We won't need this terminal. If the switch you use has 3 terminals, one is a ground, and the other two will be used to allow power to pass through or not.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e332/datasurge/ESP%20Mod/IMGP1583.jpg
Connect your wire ends to the terminals, like this:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e332/datasurge/ESP%20Mod/IMGP1584.jpg
At this point you should reattatch the connector to the DSS module so we can test the install.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e332/datasurge/ESP%20Mod/IMGP1585.jpg
Be sure the switch is in the ON position before you start the car, just for the purpose of this test. Once you have confirmed this, go ahead and start the car. Allow all of your dash lights to go out like normal. Do not touch your stock ESP Disable button, you won't need to anymore anyway. Flip the switch, and your ESP/BAS Light, and Traction Control light will both illuminate like I pictured above. You will also get a chime. If you get all of this, then your install is functioning properly!
Now you must choose a location to install the switch on the floor console. I chose to install mine inside the "bucket" where the coin holders are. I mounted it just below the slot for the quarters, and set it so that the switch in the ON position is faced towards the wall of the bucket. This will reduce the possibility of something inside the bucket from knocking the ESP off without warning.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e332/datasurge/ESP%20Mod/IMGP1586.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e332/datasurge/ESP%20Mod/IMGP1589.jpg
Now you should just button everything back up, and GO HAVE SOME FUN!
Hope this was helpful to you all!!