Transmission servicing

[joseph]

This will take care of the leaking O-rings, filter and fluid change, and water intake issue at the base of the filler tube.

FYI: This is for my 05 Rt (Hemi) built 10/04, I don't know how the V-6 tranny is, and you need to verify the quantity of ATF needed for servicing, before working on yours, it's your car, it's your responsibility.
If you don't feel comfortable doing this due to lack of mechanical ability, take it to the dealer, if you still have the warranty it's ok, if not they'll charge you about $250 for the following work.

You'll need:

T-30 star socket and basic tools.
5.3Qts of AFT4 (syn) ($3.49/qt at Checker)
long neck funnel
Ramps
Jack or Jacktstand
Large container
Black silicone
1 large O-ring, DCX dealer part# 68001278AA ($1.98) UPDATE: It's preferable to use the O-rings from the Mercedes Benz dealer, they fix the problem better, so I've heard, $3 each + tax, they call them seal rings, parts#: MBN 026997404828 and # MBN 026997414828.
1 small O-ring, DCX dealer part# 68001279AA ($2.30)
1 Transmissiom filter, dealer part# 52108325AA ($11.62)Click on picture to make them bigger.
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/th_100_1145.jpg (http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/100_1145.jpg)
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/th_100_1141.jpg (http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/100_1141.jpg)

To start:

Put the car on ramps, set parking brake
support transmission with jack or jackstand
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/th_100_1147.jpg (http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/100_1147.jpg)
Remove the 2 middle bolts (15mm)of the crossmember
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/th_100_1148.jpg (http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/100_1148.jpg)
Remove crossmember by removing the 4 bolts (1/2")
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/th_100_1146.jpg (http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/100_1146.jpg)
Place large container under tranny pan and remove bolts with T-30 star socket (start from the rear first to let it drain as much as possible before removing the pan) (remove filler plug also)
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/th_100_1149.jpg (http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/100_1149.jpg)
Remove pan, clean pan, re-usable gasket and magnetic plug
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/th_100_1152.jpg (http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/100_1152.jpg)
Pull down on filter to remove it
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/th_100_1151.jpg (http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/100_1151.jpg)
Make O-ring of new filter wet with ATF4 and install new filter after all fluid has drained, just push it in making sure tab is in hole.Now let's work on the 2 O-rings:

Turn bayonnet lock counterclock wise (use large pliers if needed) and remove connector
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/th_100_1157.jpg (http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/100_1157.jpg)
Remove plug with a 7mm wrench
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/th_100_1160.jpg (http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/100_1160.jpg)
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/th_100_1158.jpg (http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/100_1158.jpg)
Make the 2 O-rings wet with ATF4 and replace them after cleaning the plug well (Update: Read post #11 and #18 regarding tab removal, if present, there wasn't one on mine)
(picture of tab here, post # 17: http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=46471&page=2 )
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/th_100_1159.jpg (http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/100_1159.jpg)
Put plug back in, tighten it with 7mm wrench, put connector back in, turn bayonnet lock clockwise until it clicks (make sure it cliks or will come out over time)
Put tranny pan back in and make bolts tight (you cannot overtighten pan and crush the gasket because the bolts have stops on them, you'll see what I mean when you remove them)Now let's seal the base of the filler tube with silicone to prevent water from going into tranny:

Clean base of filler tube and put silicone
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/th_100_1163.jpg (http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/100_1163.jpg)
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/th_100_1162.jpg (http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/100_1162.jpg)Now let's put everything back:

Replace crossmember (put the 2 15mm bolts first to center it)
Remove jack
Put 5.3 Qts of ATF4 slowly (double check fluid quantity for servicing) (also check how much came out to verify quantity) (4.5 Qts came out of mine, meaning it was .8 Qt low, it was leaking more and more every day at the connector)
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/th_100_1164.jpg (http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h7/pjosephlv/Tranny/100_1164.jpg)
Screw plug back in filler tube (make sure it's tight)
Start up the car, let it run for a minute, put it in D & R a few times, put it in P, and check under the car with the engine running to make sure there are no leaks (everything was ok on mine)
Hopefully you didn't forget anything and now you're done.Check again in a few days to make sure it's all good, and next time you change the oil or work under the car, double check the pan bolts to make sure they're all tight, and that nothing is leaking.

[joseph]

I'm working on checking the tranny fluid level with the dipstick DCX use, temp/level chart and digital thermometer, I'll keep you posted.

[JonzMgnm]

Beans to you, Joseph! Great write up.

[BBMagnumRTAJ]

Beans to you!

But sad to see no mopar products :(...

how much did that atf+4 cost?

[joseph]

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[Bubba's Dragon]

Great write up !!!!

[Meister]

Great write up !!!!Concur. Very nice job. :thumbs_u:

Beans awarded.

Suggest you update post #1 to include the part #s for the superior Mercedes Benz O-rings, which are reported to be an effective and permanent fix.

With kudos to funky, here those are:

o-ring part numbers:

mopar# = 68001279AA
MB# = A 015 997 06 45

mopar# = 68001278AA
MB# = A 015 997 05 45

[joseph]

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[BrilliantBlackHemi]

Great writeup. Beans to you. I had the dealer fix my 5.7L and it was a pain in the butt to schedule that trip. This makes it look so easy, I could of done it myself on a Sunday. Kudos.

[Meister]

It's leaking again, very, very little, and I 'm going next week to the MB dealer to get those new, better o-rings, and it will hopefully take care of it for at least 1 year, I'll update post #1 once I know the prices.
FYI, I also got the dispstick to check the tranny fluid level, and I did a write up for the KB that is waiting to be approved, so be on the look out for "how to check your transmission fluid (NAG1)"Great, Joseph. :thumbs_u:

I, too, have one of the tranny dipsticks but have long since forgotten all the particulars of its use. Reviewing your write-up will be much easier than digging the procedure out of the service manual again.

[fnkychkn]

It's leaking again, very, very little, and I 'm going next week to the MB dealer to get those new, better o-rings, and it will hopefully take care of it for at least 1 year, I'll update post #1 once I know the prices.
FYI, I also got the dispstick to check the tranny fluid level, and I did a write up for the KB that is waiting to be approved, so be on the look out for "how to check your transmission fluid (NAG1)"there are no "new, better o-rings". MB & mopar parts are the same. did you follow the TSB instructions (http://www.wkjeeps.com/misc/LX/TSB/TSB_2100205.pdf)? specifically step #7.

[fnkychkn]

sorry for the confusion i may have caused with my last post.

the first time i had to replace these o-rings (almost 2 years ago), we did not have them in stock and no other local dealer stocked them. since the vehicle was from out of town and the customer needed to get back on the road, we got the o-rings from the MB dealer down the street. when i replaced them, they were identical in size and composition.

i have since replaced quite a few, always using the mopar part number and they were bagged and tagged as MB parts inside a mopar bag and tag. it has been a few months since i've had to replace any so they may not be bagged and tagged the same way now.

i got the MB part numbers from chrysler dealerconnect, where some shared parts have alternate part numbers. this is one of those shared parts.

i have seen a few high milers that did not leak but i am not sure if they have been previously repaired.

[joseph]

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[stroguy]

Why did they have to put a damn plug down there anyway, wasn't it obvious right from the drawing board it could be a problem.

I can comment but I've said a fill about this issue. My demand letter for repayment has been sent to DCX. If they don't pay then I go to court and let a judge hear mine and many others miseries about this tranny. There are just to many leak issues...Mags, 300's, Chargers and Jeeps. Worst part is your tranny may be leaking and you won't know it. It weeps and the fluid hangs on the bottom of the pan. Oh well. Good luck and check your tranny fluid levels regularly. Ooops, I mean have the dealer do it for you.

Randy

[cadzilla74]

Thanks for clearing up the MB vs DCX shared part thingie on the O-Rings fnkychkn. Are the current rings identical to the ones from 2 years ago? My service guy told me they had been changed some from the originals. I was in no position to disagree, I was just glad they changed them out without fanfare on my car.

[joseph]

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[fnkychkn]

Thanks for clearing up the MB vs DCX shared part thingie on the O-Rings fnkychkn. Are the current rings identical to the ones from 2 years ago? My service guy told me they had been changed some from the originals. I was in no position to disagree, I was just glad they changed them out without fanfare on my car.i never really noticed any difference. they could be different from the old ones. i just never noticed.

[fnkychkn]

There was no tab on mine, so I didn't mention it. (even if there was, I don't see how it would change anything anyway)

the locator tab can affect the alignment of the plug and cause a leak.

[joseph]

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[joseph]

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[WIMP]

Nice write up but I was wondering doesn't DCX charge the fuid in the torque convertor too?

[joseph]

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[joseph]

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[joseph]

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[Meister]

...my level is at 70mm when hot and it's good enough, now if someone wants to have the level check at the dealer or if someone had the rings done, then you're more than welcome to get the dipstick and let the rest of us know what it reads.Joseph, I did have the dealer verify the tranny fluid level in my ride at twenty-some thousand miles, about a year ago. I'd just purchased the fluid measuring dip stick (cable) and it seemed to be telling me that my trans was over-filled.

Sure enough it had been overfilled either at the factory or during dealer prep, so they drained all the fluid while they were at it and refilled it per spec. I measured it at the time with my own tool when I got it home and I recall that it read very nearly full, so, in looking at my "tranny dip stick" today I can see that that was most likely at the 70mm point that you're seeing. The fact that the 70mm hash mark has a fluid retention hole punched or drilled right at 70mm is further indication to me that that is the desired level.

I measured mine today after two 25-minute driving sessions, both of which involved fast freeway travel as well as county roads and city surface streets. Tranny fluid temp at completion of driving was 160* f, just under mid-scale on my AutoMeter NV-series tranny temp gauge. Mine read exactly full, which is the 80mm hash mark (something less than a quarter-inch above the 70mm mark & hole).

I've added about a half-pint of additive since the tranny was serviced, and the tranny has no leaks. So my SOTP tells me that my ride would be reading @ 75mm had I not myself added some fluid.

Meaning that the "correct" setting for my car, per my dealer, would have the fluid level at 75mm with the tranny nicely warmed up (160* f). Which would likely have it right around 70mm with the tranny simply warmed up the average amount that 15 or 20 minutes of city driving would do.

All that to say it sounds to me like your present 70mm level is right where the dealer would put it as well, hence is perfect.

Looks like you've hit yet another home run. :thumbs_u:

[joseph]

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[Meister]

They're also available from forum vendor Wyckoff Chrysler, but for a buck something more:

http://store.yahoo.com/wyckoff-chrys...oillechto.html

[BMWDON]

Subscribing to this thread for future use and make it easier to find....good info!!!! :)

[MrHemi2U]

I just had the O rings changed today ($78 thank you very much). I was with the Tech when he checked the level and he showed me the chart they use. My oil was at 130 degrees F the level should be 55mm.

[joseph]

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[joseph]

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[Eric Fischer]

Any change you can fix the pics in the OP? The pics are no longer working.

Thanks.

[MuscleMan305]

Any change you can fix the pics in the OP? The pics are no longer working.

Thanks.

Yea I would love to see some pics also, would make it a hell of a lot more comforting when I finally get around to doing this for the first time.

[BuilderBill]

Yea I would love to see some pics also, would make it a hell of a lot more comforting when I finally get around to doing this for the first time.
Guys...
The latest "O" rings are BLACK.
MB only sells as an assembly now, NOT as individual "O" rings.
Bill

[plcman]

Hey guys, did you notice that the guy that posted this is Banned!!

[Nightshade]

Yeah.. pretty funny...

good thing he didn't change the images to something else.. should be policy to remove KB articles create by users that get banned.. or rehost the images..

Could get nasty real quick.. hotlinking can be bad news..

[done]

Hey guys, did you notice that the guy that posted this is Banned!!

He was banned for an attitude problem, not because he was stupid.

[plcman]

Never said he was stupid, just he was banned. Also I was just responding to the fact that they wanted the pictures back.

[Peter Parker]

It would be helpful to others if someone updated this thread with the latest parts and pictures even though I just had the plug leak twice - covered under warranty though so I haven't personally needed it.