Nitrous Details

[MomsR/T]

I get ALOT of PM's regarding N2O............

I figured I would just post this and a few of you can drop in your oppinions and what you've found.

#1. No, N2O is no more harmful than a turbo or blower and in most cases its safer in my oppinion.

a. If its hot outside, N2O doesn't compress and dump MORE hot air inside.
b. Easier to tune in small levels
c. No plumbing to pop off or loose
d. No belts to go bananas on ya either
e. Fuel doesn't have to rise or fall liniar to boost levels......it dumps at the ratio you pilled / dialed in.

#2. No one makes the BEST system. You can shop around because actually its fairly simple. On our cars, the Zex controller seems to be the best choice. You can use the Zex controller with an NOS, Cold Fusion, Top Gun, Barry Gant, Nitrous Express, Compucar, or whatever.

#3. Most of us don't need to purge. Purging allows you to clear the line of GAS-N2O as apposed to liquid. The liquid is MUCH more dense and hits MUCH HARDER! Most of us already have a hard time launching as is, without spinning..........if you purge ,then launch hard, AND spray..........it's only good for black marks unless you can hook. Launch on the junk-gas alot of guys purge........this will allow the car to launch softer but you will come on harder and harder as the line gets the LIQUID stuff.

***** Note - Marty at KRC disagrees with me and feels everyone should purge no matter what. He feels the less dense gas will allow the cyl to become gasoline washed and is detramental. I disagree that this low volume amount of gas for this sub-second to 1 second time table is anything to be concerned with. You will have to choose what is best for you.

#4. Take that purge money and buy a good bottle heater..........make sure it has an automatic off. You can even wire it up to an LED light so you can see if its on. Bottles work best when they are between 900 - 1000 psi.

***** This is what a BOTTLE WARMER does; "What you have is a 10 or 20# bottle and that is liquid weight. Typically that is about 50-60% of the internal volume of the bottle. The top of the tank of pressurized gas, aka the pressure head.

N20 boils off at sub zero temps. In order to build a head pressure the gas/liquid pulls the heat it needs from the tank itself. By pulling this heat it chills the tank, when the tank is chilled it will not be able to build up the same amount of pressure. Your are getting a diminishing return. Dont forget there is a tube thats pulling liquid from the bottom of the tank like a big straw.

By adding a heater to the tank, you heat it up to 1100 or so PSI and the heat shuts off (if its an automatic warmer), when the pressure drops to below 1000psi it kicks back on. (manufacturers will vary)

The major reason for this is that if you head pressure is LOW its not pushing as much Liquid through the system, so your tune will change because your fuel ( if it is set up correctly ) is going to flow consistently, and the Nitrous is whats going to be the variable in the system." -Rob

(Heat makes N2O, and most other gases, increase in pressure. N2O, and most gases, will drop in temp as pressure rises. Once temp is low enough, the gas turns to liquid.)

#5. Mount the bottle so the valve points to the FRONT of the car. This way, when you launch, you don't uncover the pickup when it's low.

#6. Just like a blower and turbo; you MUST run premium and at least 1 ranger colder plugs. This helps control detonation.

**** Note - Stay away from high-octane "leaded" race gas. Its no good for cats and O2's. Another one thats myth is "aviation fuel" (I don't want to get too deep but this is bunk!) I believe you can buy 104 non-leaded at most tracks.

#7. These small foggers we put in front of the TB are good, but direct port just plain HITS HARDER! Direct port also is safer and can be tuned better for much larger shots. A small fogger infront of the TB can make 1 piston go lean and another to go fat.............your only as fast as your most BURNT piston!

**** Direct port clairification: Direct port are those systems that put a fogger in each cyl. thru bungs drilled in the intake.

#8. Thus far, only the 100 shot seems to be safe..............the 75 has been proven to be real safe!

#9. Our cam's LSA (the time BOTH valves are closed at the same time - measure in degrees of total rotation) is very very high. This means we build pressure up in these cyl like a mutha! A 100 shot on our cars in like a 150 - 175 in my old 5-ohs. So just becasue "Billy Bob" runs a 150 shot on his LS1 or 5-point-oh.......DON'T YOU DO IT!

Its like apples and oranges!

If you run a MUCH bigger cam with less LSA (thus bleeding off pressure) then it wouldn't be such an issue.

**** LSA clairification: 5.7 cam's have 117 degrees (117 LSA) while the 6.1 cam's have 116 degrees (116 LSA). Most 5-ohs or LT1's were running LSA's around 114 - 112. With the valves BOTH closed for only 112 degrees out of 360 degrees, you can see they bleed off pressure quite a bit more than we do.

#10. I see some guys putting the ZEX box under the hood......Not very stealthy. One cool cat I know runs the box under his dash/console. He taps into the TB-voltage from the peddle and NOT the TB.....same wire however. This is MUCH cleaner and makes the system hidden if ya want. :wink:

#11. If you like to monitor you engine with gauges............I suggest a (lettered in order of MOST IMPORTANT)

a. Fuel Pressure - A-#1 MOST IMPORTANT (low pressure = BOOM!)
b. Air / Fuel Ratio (yep, just like the boost guys)
c. Bottle Pressure (cherries always do this first when it SHOULD be last)
d. LED showing heater on / off

#12. Because the solenoids are activated by 12V.....you can get creative with your buttons AND safety switches.

SAFETY FIRST
a. Fuel Pressure shut off - Hobbs
b. Oil Pressure Shut off - Hobbs
c. 12v from relay-arming come from key switch (no 12V unless car on! I can't tell you how many times I heard of some dumbarse spraying with car off..........if you start the car with the intake full of N2O.......you will be picking up pieces of your hood and intake all over the neighbors front yard!)

d. TWO systems to arm the system.....ie. 1 spray button AND WOT voltage

STEALTH
a. bottles fit where spare tire USE TO go :wink:
b. SS-lines can be wrapped in vaccum line and solenoids can go under 5.7 cover
c. get creative with your buttons......I use the horn button for my spray-button. :thumbs_u:
d. Arming buttons/switch can go in the glove box, center console, or cup-holder
e. Fogger can go under the CAI...........

#13. N2O takes 33%, -20 degree oxygen and shoves it in the car........and you have heard the idea of an egine right? "More air in....more air out!" So please know this mod NEEDS exhaust to work to its full potential.

#14. Yes you can use N2O with a SuperChips; if detonation is an issue, make sure you run the 8-something tune to decrease timing but nothing can replace colder plugs and high octane!

#15. Common names for nitrous oxide are: N2O, dope, juice, the bottle, giggle gas, the squeeze, nitrous, or the gas. But at no time should you call this generic chemical NOS...........NOS is a company. Just like General Electric goes by G - E, Nitrous Oxide Systems goes by N - O - S. If you goto the track and you are calling it nos "pronounced nous"........you may be labeled a noob, geek, turd-ball, looser, dummy, youngster, poser, a bench racer, a ricer, or a wanna-be.

I tell you this as a friend and concerned citizen of LXville, USA.:wink:

#16. For those that wanna get advanced on me here, you can run stages of spray........Jacobs use to make a real neat controller that would bring in N2O gradual as you dialed in. It could bring in a 2nd system after so many seconds after arming the first one. It could be used to turn off other 12V relays if so desired........real neat.

I know NOS has something like it and most likely the Jacobs system still is out there with 10 others just like it.

Using a controller will help a fella control wheel spin, keep car under control, and so on.

IE. A guy may want to hit a 75 shot (non-purged) comming out of the hole........helps his 60' times. He does this with a fogger in FRONT of the TB. After 3 seconds, it automaticly arms his second system which sprays a direct port, 100 shot (purged) at the 120 ft line.

You could play around with a setup like this to dial it in and see what makes the car faster yet controlable and straight.

**** Note - A big shot like in the above example would be fine with forged pistons, modded cam specs, ring gap spec., modded fuel delivery, and such.

#17. Another fancy detail -

Back in the days when I had a turbo car, EVERYONE use to use a very small shot of dope to help cool (freeze) the inlet charge of the compressed air we were bringing in. We would put the fogger AFTER the inner-cooler but BEFORE the TB. So 190 degree, compressed air would be cooled to 140 degrees, then mixed again with N2O @ -20 degrees and you would end up with an inlet temp of like 70 degrees! (not exact numbers - but you get the point)

You would spray it (unlike the movies) right at launch so it would get the car moving and make up for turbo-lag. Once you launched, it would automaticly spool up to full boost! Once you boosted up and were moving, you would not spray again thus keeping cyl pressure down and your head gaskets on.

If someone ever gets a turbo released for our cars, a small 25 - 50 shot for launching the car works EXTREMELY good to get our fat-arsed cars moving and helping you to get that beast under full-spool.

#18. Accessories............you can spend some stupid money on dope just like you can with anything else. I will try and explain different crap you can buy to go with your set-up.

a. Purge - To rid the line of less dense and softer hitting N2O-gas. Line will only have N2O liquid once you purge.
b. Warmer - To help use up all the N2O in the bottle. A warmer will aid you in keeping the bottle between 900- 1000 psi.
c. Automatic Warmer - A fancy version of the above BUT it will add heat or turn off to keep your pressure at that 900 - 1000psi sweet-spot
d. Gauges - Covered already........Fuel Pressure is the MOST important
e. Billet Bottle Holders - Man O Man.....I've seen some fancy bottle brackets. Some have quick disconnects, some allow for 2 x 10lb bottles, some are anodized colors, and some have etching. Its just bling bling......

f. Y - Distribution Blocks - Are for guys that want to run 2 bottles but with 1 line to the solenoid. This will ensure you don't have too much volume drop as you use the N2O. Its fairly embarressing when you goto spray and there is nothing in the bottle....ooooooooppppps! Two bottles ensure you don't let this happen.

g. Electric Valve Openers - This is for the guy that likes at keep the fact he has spray a TOTAL secret. He flips a switch and his bottle opens up automaticly.......no getting out of the car, opening the trunk, and giving yourself away. (mostly used by street racers)

h. Various Bottle Sizes - The common size for a bottle is 10 lbs BUT you can buy 15lb, 20lb, and little 2.5 pounders known as Sneaky Petes (NOS). These are used by motorcycle, snowmobile, and ATV riders.

i. Hobbs Switches - Little electric switches that will kill 12V to your nitrous system if they read below pre-set perameters. Most Hobbs switches are run to fuel and oil........IE. A fuel Hobbs switch can turn off your nitrous if fuel pressure drops below 35 psi or can cut ignition if oil pressure drop below 20 psi.

j. Nitrous Controllers - I spoke about these before. I am not up an all the new stuff out so you'll have to dig deeper; BUT, I can tell you what they generally have had over the last 15 years. Most will have timers (on / off), RPM modules (on / off), % of total amount of spray, on / off for other 12V switches and so on. Different companies will offer different doo-dads on their controllers but should be a MUST if you are running multiple stages as we discussed earlier.

k. Micro Switch - Often used to denote when the TB was at WOT. When the leaver hit the switch, it would tell the relay and it would give the solenoid 12V IF and ONLY IF you were also holding down your "button" too.

l. TB Volt Switch - This is how Zex does it. You program in how many volts are going to your TB when you go WOT. A little green light comes on when the Zex controller is programmed by you. Now when it sees that many volts again AND you are pressing the button, it will spray.

I am continueing to update as I am asked questions...........please feel free to ask away!

[FactoryD]

Nice post. :thumbs_u:

This needs to go into the KB!

[quarky42]

Excellent! Beans for you! This is information that isn't usually organized in a single post but gathered through lots of painful dredging. Sure some of it is opinions based on your findings, but put together it is very useful. Thanks!

[RobAGD]

Nice write up Moms R/T just a note its Solenoid :)

I deal a lot with them at work. Lots smaller than the ones used in these.

Good Info KB This one !

-R

[ZMagnum]

How do you change the computer to change the air/fuel mixture?

[Bo]

#10. I see some guys putting the ZEX box under the hood......Not very stealthy. One cool cat I know runs the box under his dash/console. He taps into the TB-voltage from the peddle and NOT the TB.....same wire however. This is MUCH cleaner and makes the system hidden if ya want. :wink:

A quick clarification on this topic........
The APPM (gas pedal) runs on a 5 volt system, just as the TPS does. However, the wires are not the same. The APPM voltage is related directly to how far you press the pedal. The TPS voltage, while related to pedal pressure, is also influenced by the traction control systems in the car. I am using the ZEX TPS controller.... and have it connected to the APPM. You can actually tap the wire at the PCM, which means fewer wires into the passenger compartment. It is easily hidden in the same area as the PCM. While placing the controller on the TPS would be the safest method of install (if HAL closes the throttle, then the nitrous shuts off), the ZEX TPS controller is difficult to calibrate on the TPS in our vehicles, as the car must be running for voltage to be present on the TPS due to the drive by wire system.

--Bo

[MomsR/T]

Nice write up Moms R/T just a note its Solenoid :)

I deal a lot with them at work. Lots smaller than the ones used in these.

Good Info KB This one !

-R

FIXED!. :blam:

[MomsR/T]

How do you change the computer to change the air/fuel mixture?

You don't.......I would assume your asking as it relates to my write up.

These are wet-kits; they spray thru 2 solenoids.....1 opens to allow bottle pressure to spray N2O and one opens to allows fuel to spray in from fuel line. It mixes right there........

It is always an even mix.......you run whatever tune you already have versus trying to FIND a tune for turbo or supercharger.

[MomsR/T]

A quick clarification on this topic........
The APPM (gas pedal) runs on a 5 volt system, just as the TPS does. However, the wires are not the same. The APPM voltage is related directly to how far you press the pedal. The TPS voltage, while related to pedal pressure, is also influenced by the traction control systems in the car. I am using the ZEX TPS controller.... and have it connected to the APPM. You can actually tap the wire at the PCM, which means fewer wires into the passenger compartment. It is easily hidden in the same area as the PCM. While placing the controller on the TPS would be the safest method of install (if HAL closes the throttle, then the nitrous shuts off), the ZEX TPS controller is difficult to calibrate on the TPS in our vehicles, as the car must be running for voltage to be present on the TPS due to the drive by wire system.

--Bo

LISTEN TO HIM!

He is the one who came up with this particular setup.............very very clean. I will copy! :wink:

[ZMagnum]

That's cool. So no need for beefed up fuel injectors either?

You don't.......I would assume your asking as it relates to my write up.

These are wet-kits; they spray thru 2 solenoids.....1 opens to allow bottle pressure to spray N2O and one opens to allows fuel to spray in from fuel line. It mixes right there........

It is always an even mix.......you run whatever tune you already have versus trying to FIND a tune for turbo or supercharger.

[MomsR/T]

no.......look closely at a picture of a wet-kit.

You'll see one fogger with two little pills that screw in, 2 soleniods, and 2 lines (1 fuel and 1 N2O), and a long line that goes FROM the bottle to the N2O soleniod. A kit comes with a chart. That chart tells you what 2 sizes to put in together to make X amount of power.

On top of those 2 little pills go 2 lines.......1 line to the N2O solenoid and 1 line to a tee you'll make coming off your fuel line.

When you use 12V to open those solenoids (1 fuel and 1 N2O), the fuel pressure rushes in ALMOST like a 9th injector and N2O rushes in due to bottle pressure (900 - 1,000 psi).

These 2 different types of fuel mix at the fogger and spary infront of the TB TOGETHER.............the fuel spraying in helps off-set the added oxygen.

So what you're doing is adding oxygen........very very pure oxygen......and not hot, compressed air @ 6 - 10% oxygen like with a blower or turbo rather EXTREMELY COLD 33% PURE OXYGEN.

The hot combustion chamber mixing with cold air helps make compression thru expansion and using the oxygen to help with burn. (just a bigger boom)

The type of kit you're thinking of is called a DRY SYSTEM and only injects N2O while using your injectors to mix.......not a system I like.

[MomsR/T]

added #14 and #15 to above.:wink:

[BurntOrange]

this explains everything. Very good write up r/t.

[MomsR/T]

thank you very much...........just updated once again. :beerchug:

[Redfox0099]

Direct Port...like this ???

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y284/redfox0099/CIMG0732.jpg


THIS IS NOT GOING ON MY CAR.....just saw it in a friend's shop and snapped a photo

[MomsR/T]

exactly.........the blue fittings on those line denote N2O while the red fittings denote fuel.

Please note that there are 4 solenoids...............2 N2O and 2 Fuel.

What will happen is:

1) Driver first arms system thus giving 12V to relay
2) Driver now pushes peddle to the floor making TB go WOT
3) Driver now ALSO has to push a button
4) RELAY now sees WOT and BUTTON and sends 12V to soleniods

5) All 4 solenoids open up

a. One solenoid per side opens and allows fuel pressure from the fuel line to spray in @ 40psi

b. One solenoid per side opens and allows N2O to spray in @ 900 - 1000 psi

6) Once the driver either lets off the peddle or lets go of the button, it STOPS!

So what we are looking at in that picture is 1 fogger per cyl. as apposed to 1 fogger in front of the TB. The system you see there is for much bigger shots and can be tuned easier and is safer for these types of bigger shots.

Questions?

[MadCharger]

A couple of notes to consider with the ZEX system:

1. The T connector for the fuel line does not fit the LX fuel line (I realized this after cutting mine in 1/2). You'll need to find one that fits it, or replace the line with a larger one to fit the T connector that comes with the kit. I replaced, and tapped into the fuel line that connects the fuel rails together.

2. Take your time, and think about everything you do. I was so excited about doing it, that I started the night I got the kit, by installing the NMU and the fogger nozzles first, along with the hoses to connect them. At about 2 a.m., I woke up from a dead sleep, realizing that I never put the spray nozzles in the fogger! Went out and did it before I forgot about it. Can't imagine what kind of shot I would've gotten with no nozzles in there....

[MomsR/T]

ROFL!

auuuhhhhhh yeah, maybe a 500 shot eh?

I won't put into my long-arse artical I've now created..."Make sure you put the pills in"........some things go without saying right?

I will however amend my post with the correct tee folks will need. Bo knows the part number and it can be bought from Mopar.

Marty from KRC also had some inout that I will include too..........

I figure when we're done, this will be the last place you'll need to look for your N2O questions.............:not_worth

[Eric300C]

Great post!
Systems have become more and more sophisticated. Last time I had a kit it was a dry direct port setup. With drive by wire etc, things get a lot more complicated then a microswitch and hobbs to CYA for Fuel pressure.

Bo makes a great point, attaching the ZEX to the pedal feed could end up with a big kaboom if ESP kicks in.

Not that I am advocating any street use but a remote bottle opener sure comes in handy for unexpected company:wink:

Also, if you live in the extreme heat, AZ here, you don't want to leave a bottle out in the heat all day long, the safety valve will blow. Learned that lesson the hard way.

[TxCowboy]

Great write up!!! So are you putting a N2O system on the wife's or yours?

I forgot who it was (sorry) but one of the guys at your M&G/BBQ had the ZEX setup on a SRT and used hydrolic tubing for the fuel system ... or somethin like that.

[MomsR/T]

Great post!
Systems have become more and more sophisticated. Last time I had a kit it was a dry direct port setup. With drive by wire etc, things get a lot more complicated then a microswitch and hobbs to CYA for Fuel pressure.

Bo makes a great point, attaching the ZEX to the pedal feed could end up with a big kaboom if ESP kicks in.

Not that I am advocating any street use but a remote bottle opener sure comes in handy for unexpected company:wink:

Also, if you live in the extreme heat, AZ here, you don't want to leave a bottle out in the heat all day long, the safety valve will blow. Learned that lesson the hard way.

Your system will be as complicated at you want / make it, Its really not all that hard compared to turbos and blowers. The way I am explaining is nothing more than a:

#1. Off the shelf kit
#2. Zex controller
#3. Hobbs to fuel
#4. Warmer
#5. Couple of pieces of plastic / alum. to make a hide away switch / gauge mount for arm rest area.

#6. 10-gauge wire
#7. Maybe an extra relay

Total cost maybe around $500 - $600 TOTAL.
Est. drop in 1/4 mile time @ around -1.0 second w/ 100 shot

I will get clairification on Bo's inginuity and try and get pictures and such to share.

I also agree to remove bottle when not in use; if not, at least have a blow off valve so bottle can release pressure in emergency - over pressure.

[MomsR/T]

Great write up!!! So are you putting a N2O system on the wife's or yours?

I forgot who it was (sorry) but one of the guys at your M&G/BBQ had the ZEX setup on a SRT and used hydrolic tubing for the fuel system ... or somethin like that.

Mine.......wife thinks spray is for hair. :wink:

Bo had the slick setup you saw...........he lifted at the top end and ran a 12.2 w/ a 100 shot. He will be the first I know of to break into the 11's.

Because this is SO cheap, SO easy, and works SO well, yet is SO misunderstood / feared is why I'm explaining all I can.

Heads, cam, exhaust, CAI, and computer will get you mid to low 13's depending on weather in a 5.7. All of this plus a 100-shot will take you to the mid to low 12's in my estimation while the 6.1's will dip even lower into the high 11's.

[aries4life]

I have always hated having to explain to people what nitrous is to an engine. Nitrous = cold air... Add more fuel to compensate and you have a completely safe power adder (provided your engine can handle the power). So many kids burn up their Hondas that people think nitrous is bad for an engine.

Thank you for this thread.

On a side note, you (along with a drag racing friend of mine) might be nudging me in the direction of putting a 100-125 shot on tha Mag. I have been considering saving for a turbo, but nitrous always sneaks back in on me. Nitrous would probably be ideal for me because I could just ride over to my buddy's house anytime and fill my bottle.

One question.. How does one go about getting a blow off valve for a nitrous bottle? Have a part number/link for one? Estimated (or actual) cost? Can they be rigged with a hose to release the giggle gas outside the car (duh, but figured I'd ask)?

Oh ya, a question for Bo,
Did you get your tranny stuff worked out while on the juice?

-Steve

[FlyByU]

Blow off valve, if im not mistaked is the same as a blow down tube and is super cheap. Mine came with my purge kit and Im not even using it. Its just a metal pipe that connects to a valve (not sure if thats the right term) on your bottle, that is a safety release if your bottle pressure gets too high. You attach this metal pipe to that valve and have it routed outside your car. You can run it/ rig it however you want from there. My bottle is in the trunk so the hazard doesnt really exist. Its really needed for cars with the bottle inside the driving area and I believe its required at most tracks if thats the case.

[FlyByU]

http://www.chargerforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=6785&d=1146190530

picure of need4speed06's bottle


After reading what I wrote, I think I might have gotten confused on the terms.

From what I understand, the blow down tube is what attaches to the blow off valve. My bottle has the valve built in to it and Im pretty sure they all do.

Hope I havent misled you or anyone.

[STAGE 3 R/T]

WOW Well said! Wanna come to hawaii and set mine up? LOL

I get ALOT of PM's regarding N2O............

I figured I would just post this and a few of you can drop in your oppinions and what you've found.

#1. No, N2O is no more harmful than a turbo or blower and in most cases its safer in my oppinion.

a. If its hot outside, N2O doesn't compress and dump MORE hot air inside.
b. Easier to tune in small levels
c. No plumbing to pop off or loose
d. No belts to go bananas on ya either
e. Fuel doesn't have to rise or fall liniar to boost levels......it dumps at the ratio you pilled / dialed in.

#2. No one makes the BEST system. You can shop around because actually its fairly simple. On our cars, the Zex controller seems to be the best choice. You can use the Zex controller with an NOS, Cold Fusion, Top Gun, Barry Gant, Nitrous Express, Compucar, or whatever.

#3. Most of us don't need to purge. Purging allows you to clear the line of GAS-N2O as apposed to liquid. The liquid is MUCH more dense and hits MUCH HARDER! Most of us already have a hard time launching as is, without spinning..........if you purge ,then launch hard, AND spray..........it's only good for black marks unless you can hook. Launch on the junk-gas alot of guys purge........this will allow the car to launch softer but you will come on harder and harder as the line gets the LIQUID stuff.

#4. Take that purge money and buy a good bottle heater..........make sure it has an automatic off. You can even wire it up to an LED light so you can see if its on. Bottles work best when they are between 900 - 1000 psi.

***** You do NOT have to have a warmer; it will mearly allow you to use all the N2O in the bootle and maintain 900 - 1,000psi in the bottle. Without that pressure, it just won't hit like it should. If you want to get a system and just play around with it FIRST.....do it. You can ALWAYS add a warmer later.

#5. Mount the bottle so the valve points to the FRONT of the car. This way, when you launch, you don't uncover the pickup when it's low.

#6. Just like a blower and turbo; you MUST run premium and at least 1 ranger colder plugs. This helps control detonation.

#7. These small foggers we put in front of the TB are good, but direct port just plain HITS HARDER! Direct port also is safer and can be tuned better for much larger shots. A small fogger infront of the TB can make 1 piston go lean and another to go fat.............your only as fast as your most BURNT piston!

**** Direct port clairification: Direct port are those systems that put a fogger in each cyl. thru bungs drilled in the intake.

#8. Thus far, only the 100 shot seems to be safe..............the 75 has been proven to be real safe!

#9. Our cam's LSA (the time BOTH valves are clsed at the same time - measure in degrees of total rotation) is very very high. This means we build pressure up in these cyl like a mutha! A 100 shot on our cars in like a 150 - 175 in my old 5-ohs. So just becasue "Billy Bob" runs a 150 shot on his LS1 or 5-point-oh.......DON'T YOU DO IT!

Its like apples and oranges!

If you run a MUCH bigger cam with less LSA (thus bleeding off pressure) then it wouldn't be such an issue.

**** LSA clairification: 5.7 cam's have 117 degrees (117 LSA) while the 6.1 cam's have 116 degrees (116 LSA). Most 5-ohs or LT1's were running LSA's around 114 - 112. With the valves BOTH closed for only 112 degrees out of 360 degrees, you can see they bleed off pressure quite a bit more than we do.

#10. I see some guys putting the ZEX box under the hood......Not very stealthy. One cool cat I know runs the box under his dash/console. He taps into the TB-voltage from the peddle and NOT the TB.....same wire however. This is MUCH cleaner and makes the system hidden if ya want. :wink:

#11. If you like to monitor you engine with gauges............I suggest a (lettered in order of MOST IMPORTANT)

a. Fuel Pressure - A-#1 MOST IMPORTANT (low pressure = BOOM!)
b. Air / Fuel Ratio (yep, just like the boost guys)
c. Bottle Pressure (cherries always do this first when it SHOULD be last)
d. LED showing heater on / off

#12. Because the solenoids are activated by 12V.....you can get creative with your buttons AND safety switches.

SAFETY FIRST
a. Fuel Pressure shut off - Hobbs
b. Oil Pressure Shut off - Hobbs
c. 12v from relay-arming come from key switch (no 12V unless car on! I can't tell you how many times I heard of some dumbarse spraying with car off..........if you start the car with the intake full of N2O.......you will be picking up pieces of your hood and intake all over the neighbors front yard!)

d. TWO systems to arm the system.....ie. 1 spray button AND WOT voltage

STEALTH
a. bottles fit where spare tire USE TO go :wink:
b. SS-lines can be wrapped in vaccum line and solenoids can go under 5.7 cover
c. get creative with your buttons......I use the horn button for my spray-button. :thumbs_u:
d. Arming buttons/switch can go in the glove box, center console, or cup-holder
e. Fogger can go under the CAI...........

#13. N2O takes 33%, -20 degree oxygen and shoves it in the car........and you have heard the idea of an egine right? "More air in....more air out!" So please know this mod NEEDS exhaust to work to its full potential.

#14. Yes you can use N2O with a SuperChips; if detonation is an issue, make sure you run the 8-something tune to decrease timing.

#15. Common names for nitrous oxide are: N2O, dope, juice, the bottle, giggle gas, the squeeze, nitrous, or the gas. But at no time should you call this generic chemical NOS...........NOS is a company. Just like General Electric goes by G - E, Nitrous Oxide Systems goes by N - O - S. If you goto the track and you are calling it nos "pronounced nous"........you may be labeled a noob, geek, turd-ball, looser, dummy, youngster, poser, a bench racer, a ricer, or a wanna-be.

I tell you this as a friend and concerned citizen of LXville, USA.:wink:

#16. For those that wanna get advanced on me here, you can run stages of spray........Jacobs use to make a real neat controller that would bring in N2O gradual as you dialed in. It could bring in a 2nd system after so many seconds after arming the first one. It could be used to turn off other 12V relays if so desired........real neat.

I know NOS has something like it and most likely the Jacobs system still is out there with 10 others just like it.

Using a controller will help a fella control wheel spin, keep car under control, and so on.

IE. A guy may want to hit a 75 shot (non-purged) comming out of the hole........helps his 60' times. He does this with a fogger in FRONT of the TB. After 5 seconds, it automaticly arms his second system which sprays a direct port, 100 shot (purged) for half way to the 1/8 mile line.

You could play around with a setup like this to dial it in and see what makes the car faster yet controlable and straight.

A big shot like in the above example would be fine with forged pistons, modded cam specs, ring gap spec., modded fuel delivery, and such.

#17. Another fancy detail -

Back in the days when I had a turbo car, EVERYONE use to use a very small shot of dope to help cool (freeze) the inlet charge of the compressed air we were bringing in. We would put the fogger AFTER the inner-cooler but BEFORE the TB. So 190 degree, compressed air would be cooled to 140 degrees, then mixed again with N2O @ -20 degrees and you would end up with an inlet temp of like 70 degrees! (not exact numbers - but you get the point)

You would spray it (unlike the movies) right at launch so it would get the car moving and make up for turbo-lag. Once you launched, it would automaticly spool up to full boost! Once you boosted up and were moving, you would not spray again thus keeping cyl pressure down and your head gaskets on.

If someone ever gets a turbo released for our cars, a small 25 - 50 shot for launching the car works EXTREMELY good to get our fat-arsed cars moving and helping you to get that beast under full-spool.

#18. Accessories............you can spend some stupid money on dope just like you can with anything else. I will try and explain different crap you can buy to go with your set-up.

a. Purge - To rid the line of less dense and softer hitting N2O-gas. Line will only have N2O liquid once you purge.
b. Warmer - To help use up all the N2O in the bottle. A warmer will aid you in keeping the bottle between 900- 1000 psi.
c. Automatic Warmer - A fancy version of the above BUT it will add heat or turn off to keep your pressure at that 900 - 1000psi sweet-spot
d. Gauges - Covered already........Fuel Pressure is the MOST important
e. Billet Bottle Holders - Man O Man.....I've seen some fancy bottle brackets. Some have quick disconnects, some allow for 2 x 10lb bottles, some are anodized colors, and some have etching. Its just bling bling......

f. Y - Distribution Blocks - Are for guys that want to run 2 bottles but with 1 line to the solenoid. This will ensure you don't have too much volume drop as you use the N2O. Its fairly embarressing when you goto spray and there is nothing in the bottle....ooooooooppppps! Two bottles ensure you don't let this happen.

g. Electric Valve Openers - This is for the guy that likes at keep the fact he has spray a TOTAL secret. He flips a switch and his bottle opens up automaticly.......no getting out of the car, opening the trunk, and giving yourself away. (mostly used by street racers)

h. Various Bottle Sizes - The common size for a bottle is 10 lbs BUT you can buy 15lb, 20lb, and little 2.5 pounders known as Sneaky Petes (NOS). These are used by motorcycle, snowmobile, and ATV riders.

i. Hobbs Switches - Little electric switches that will kill 12V to your nitrous system if they read below pre-set perameters. Most Hobbs switches are run to fuel and oil........IE. A fuel Hobbs switch can turn off your nitrous if fuel pressure drops below 35 psi or can cut ignition if oil pressure drop below 20 psi.

j. Nitrous Controllers - I spoke about these before. I am not up an all the new stuff out so you'll have to dig deeper; BUT, I can tell you what they generally have had over the last 15 years. Most will have timers (on / off), RPM modules (on / off), % of total amount of spray, on / off for other 12V switches and so on. Different companies will offer different doo-dads on their controllers but should be a MUST if you are running multiple stages as we discussed earlier.

k. Micro Switch - Often used to denote when the TB was at WOT. When the leaver hit the switch, it would tell the relay and it would give the solenoid 12V IF and ONLY IF you were also holding down your "button" too.

l. TB Volt Switch - This is how Zex does it. You program in how many volts are going to your TB when you go WOT. A little green light comes on when the Zex controller is programmed by you. Now when it sees that many volts again AND you are pressing the button, it will spray.

I am continueing to update as I am asked questions...........please feel free to ask away!

[MomsR/T]

Yeah, as it valve blows off, that metal tube you described vents the air outside the car...........

What you will prob see me do is run one of those purdy little billet bottle holders w/ quick release king-pins in it. This will allow me to COMPLETELY remove the bottle and the bracket all at once from the tire area when I'm done and replace my spare tire in there.

I have never known a bottle to actually blow but I can see where it could happen in extreme cases with FULL bottles.

Before a fella goes and starts to bolt this and that up while running wire all over the place............sit down with a beer, read the instructions, and think about it.

Take all the parts and lay them where you THINK you want them to go. Make sure the supplied lines are long enough to route them where you THINK they will go.

Lay out your wire......make sure you have enough BEFORE you start.

If you have questions or ideas........POST. I'll be happy to help and explain why I think it may be good or bad WITH explaination.

BTW...........I had another cool idea for those with "pretty" setups. Someone needs to talk Robbyho (AON) in building a custom bottle rack in fiber-glass for one of those nooks in a Magnum. Have a pre-made billet bottle rack in there and have the bottle custom painted by the dude that paints those engine covers here so it matches. :rock:

A little bling bling for those that are into that stuff.......

Seriously........if you run into little snaggs just write me; its pretty easy all in all and there is a TON of stuff out there for accessories.

[STAGE 3 R/T]

:bump::bump::bump::bump::bump::bump::bump::bump:

Yeah, as it valve blows off, that metal tube you described vents the air outside the car...........

What you will prob see me do is run one of those purdy little billet bottle holders w/ quick release king-pins in it. This will allow me to COMPLETELY remove the bottle and the bracket all at once from the tire area when I'm done and replace my spare tire in there.

I have never known a bottle to actually blow but I can see where it could happen in extreme cases with FULL bottles.

Before a fella goes and starts to bolt this and that up while running wire all over the place............sit down with a beer, read the instructions, and think about it.

Take all the parts and lay them where you THINK you want them to go. Make sure the supplied lines are long enough to route them where you THINK they will go.

Lay out your wire......make sure you have enough BEFORE you start.

If you have questions or ideas........POST. I'll be happy to help and explain why I think it may be good or bad WITH explaination.

BTW...........I had another cool idea for those with "pretty" setups. Someone needs to talk Robbyho (AON) in building a custom bottle rack in fiber-glass for one of those nooks in a Magnum. Have a pre-made billet bottle rack in there and have the bottle custom painted by the dude that paints those engine covers here so it matches. :rock:

A little bling bling for those that are into that stuff.......

Seriously........if you run into little snaggs just write me; its pretty easy all in all and there is a TON of stuff out there for accessories.

[MomsR/T]

RobADG had something to add to this; a clearer understanding of BOTTLE WARMERS..........this is what he had to say.

Hey guys just a comment on the tank warmers and why you want them.

What you have is a 10 or 20# bottle and that liquid weight. That typically is abot 50-60& of the internal volume of the bottle.

N20 boils off at sub zero temps. In order to build a head pressure the gas/liquid pulls heat it needs from the tank itself. By pulling this heat it chills the tank, when the tank is chilled it will not be able to build up the same amount of pressure. Your are getting a diminishing return. Dont forget there is a tube thats pulling liquid from the bottom of the tank like a big straw.

By adding a heater to the tank, you heat to 1100 or so PSI and the heat shuts off, when the pressure drops to below 1000psi it kicks back on.

The major reason for this is that if you head pressure is LOW its not pushing as much Liquid through the system, so your tune will change because your fuel ( if it is set up correctly ) is going to flow consistantly, and the Nitrous is whats going to be the variable in the system.

-Robert

Thanks for the clear explaination so maybe everyone can understand.:thumbs_u:

NOTE: When he says "heat chills", what he is refering to is; the heat creates pressure. When N2O is pressurized to a point, it becomes colder (pressure drop in MOST gases is 10 degrees drop per 100 psi GAIN ). So as the heat is applied to the bottle, pressure goes UP (which allows the N2O to fill the line and spray) and temp goes down.

I hope this make sense to most.

[Allevon]

This write up is exactly what I was looking for. thank you

[RobAGD]

Oi! I need to edit that for typos :/ Damn my fingers

-R

This should be a little bit better:


Hey guys just a comment on the tank warmers and why you should want them.

What you have is a 10 or 20# bottle and that is liquid weight. Typically that is about 50-60% of the internal volume of the bottle. The top of the tank of pressurized gas, aka the pressure head.

N20 boils off at sub zero temps. In order to build a head pressure the gas/liquid pulls the heat it needs from the tank itself. By pulling this heat it chills the tank, when the tank is chilled it will not be able to build up the same amount of pressure. Your are getting a diminishing return. Dont forget there is a tube thats pulling liquid from the bottom of the tank like a big straw.

By adding a heater to the tank, you heat it up to 1100 or so PSI and the heat shuts off, when the pressure drops to below 1000psi it kicks back on.

The major reason for this is that if you head pressure is LOW its not pushing as much Liquid through the system, so your tune will change because your fuel ( if it is set up correctly ) is going to flow consistently, and the Nitrous is whats going to be the variable in the system.

-Robert

[MomsR/T]

Thanks Rob...........what I'll do later is revise the Original so your thoughts / comments can be added.

If you have others please advise so we can get it all in the original post.

My goal is to get a 1 post, fully detailed understanding so people can make educated choices. Alot of fear is purely due to the "unknown"......like I've said before, N2O is purdy darn safe at the levels we are discussing.

[lowriderman3]

Well I have to say that I have become more educated on Nitrous, and now feel much better when I decide to go that route before long. Thanks for the great info!

[MomsR/T]

UPDATED with thoughts and input from RobAGD and Marty from KRC.

[RobAGD]

While i have installed some NOS systems ( Yes N.O.S. old sk00l stuff when there really werent anything else ) most of my plumming and gas stuff comes from my work in paintball :)

I built a lot of Co2 coolers for Turbo Buick using NOS Spray bars and purge kits.

-R

[MomsR/T]

I built a lot of Co2 coolers for Turbo Buick using NOS Spray bars and purge kits.

-R

ROFL.....old timer! I used a 25 shot with 50% Compucar 50% Nitrous Works system on my old 88 Turbo Supra. The lag was horrible after I had a Greddy wheel put in the compressor side w/ mill. I made up for that lag with spray and never looked back..........

That heavy arse car ran 12.8's with old-school Goodyear Gatorback II's, IRS, and stock motor, cams, gears, and such.

I think I had $2,500 TOTAL in that car.........(bought it for $1,000 with a bad turbo and blown headgasket).

I also have had 5 Mustangs in various trims........most all on dope.

I use to have so many spare parts.....some NOS, some Nitrous Works, some Compucar, some Nitrous Express (when they first came out), some TNT, and so on..........I bet I had 5 bottles at one point.

My buddy now own Cold Fusion....about 1.5 miles from my house........he has great prices, good solenoids, and he machines he own stuff as apposed to all the "re-labelers" out there.

[RobAGD]

Yes old timer :) Built a few 5.0 all motor 12.0 cars ( stock motors only valve covers removed for 1.72 Rolling rockers )

The buick guys in 87-89 really didnt want N2O in the motor and we saw how well ice worked sooooo :) I mean one dude coughed and blew the TB Blade through the hood needless to say that was a bad sneeze. Leaky noid as I recall was the cause of that one.

Until we get computers to play nice I think Nitrous is the way to go as Hal cant kill that and he has no choice but go fast :D

I want a Kenne Bell or a Whipple on a 426 with a forged and studded block.

Does you buddy have a web site ?

-R

[MomsR/T]

Yeah....look up Cold Fusion.

The guy is nice and his stuff is good but the website is not my favorite. If you call up there, his name is Mike Weir (owner).

I am trying to get a time where I can take Kelly from HEAT over there and make him a Master Distributor.

I think you're right.......this car and nitrous go like Bulls and Horns.

You saw where Bo posted his time from 2 weeks ago eh? Crappy arse weather, he lifted, and STILL posted a 12.2 :not_worth

This car is NOT as modified as many...........he will break 11's any day now and will prob go fairly deep as we figure out more w/ cams and CPU's. (6.1)

I feel my car will run mid to low 12's and I will be maintaining stealth.......a fella willing to go that extra mile should blow by me. (5.7)

[NAS T MAG]

Wow! I haven't considered this before, but this thread is what makes this forum so great. It's the equivalent of someone throwing a C-note into the collection basket at church.

[lowriderman3]

One question..Can someone direct me to a place that sells "everything" as a complete kit to do this. Or do you still have to buy the purge kit, etc seperate. Also I am looking at the Zex. Does the "manufacturer" of the kit matter much, as with a lot of other things?

[BoiseHemi]

Got mine from the place on e-bay ordered the main kit and the purge kit all together about $750. The seller has 100% postive rating. http://stores.ebay.com/Speed-Unlimited-Performance. You will find all you need here. Later

[MomsR/T]

One question..Can someone direct me to a place that sells "everything" as a complete kit to do this. Or do you still have to buy the purge kit, etc seperate. Also I am looking at the Zex. Does the "manufacturer" of the kit matter much, as with a lot of other things?

I don't sell anything nor recommend anyone. I know a few site vendors carry stuff so I would ask that you consider them first.

The "kits" are mostly the same........there are very, very few items different.

The solenoids make the BIGGEST difference..........are they rebuildable? Are they the big, heavy duty type or the small throw aways?

For how small we are talking about it shouldn't matter........

Another difference in manufacturers is their BOTTLE TUBE DESIGN.........does it go all the way to the bottom, is it 3/8" or 1/2" pickup............is it bent / angled at the bottom?

FOr the most part, you'll find you can mix and match ALOT of parts and maufacturers.............IE. ZEX kit and purge with an NOS warmer, an NOS automatic bottle opener, a Jacobs controler, Auto Meter Gauges, a Cold Fusion bottle cage w/ 2 bottles and their Y-block.

It will all work.............your system can be upgraded and changed as you go............and if you sell you car, you take your system with you.

No matter what system you use, you need a ZEX TB controller..........I personally like the rebuildable solenoids you can get from NOS, Cold Fusion, and Nitrous Express. These are considered the best in quality.

I also would tell you to buy a warmer that covers the most surface area of a bottle and that would turn off and on with bottle pressure.........nice feature.

All purge kits are the same IMHO...........small lines and cheap solenoids.

Every company acts like their "design" of fogger is the "best".....who knows. :blah: :blah: :blah:

I haven't bought any nitrous stuff in years so I can't tell you everything thats out there but if you want me to look at something for you....I will.

[lowriderman3]

^^Thanks for that info. I will be sure to get ahold of you if I have any questions.

[STAGE 3 R/T]

ok next question, a good friend of mine has an 05 Mustang he has been racing all his life brung up around cars. My point I am making/asking is he is using ZEX wet shot... He has the SC Tuner as well, he said something about a spcific program to use, not the sports performance and run the 91 tune. Anyways I would contact him but he is in the navy like me... I can't contact him due to his job and things that are going on... Any info would be greatly helpful

[STAGE 3 R/T]

another question was i have read somewhere about spark plugs need to be changed as well?

[MomsR/T]

No one will blow up their car with these small of shots because they ran a SC and a 75 shot together.

I can't put my finger on the EXACT SC-tune to run, with such-and-such octane, with such-and-such plug, and this or that kit with whatever pills; its just not that exact and we aren't running the levels at which things go boom.

If you run the EXTREME SC-tune, with the WORST gas, with the HOTTEST plug, and start with the 50-shot ........you should here it ping and GET THE HELL OUT OF THE BUTTON!

Its common sence.............

I bet you can run 104 octane with the performance tune on the SC, with 1 ranger colder plug, and still hit a 100-shot.

Until you do it, I just can't tell you...........ya know?


+ Nitrous = + Octane = - Plug heat range = -timing
- Nitrous = - Octane = + Plug heat range = + timing

As you creap up your N2O shot and you have a hint of ping / detonation, either add octane, subtract plug heat range, take out timing, or a combo of all the above.

Even the EXPERTS / PROs don't throw in 300+ pills of dope and just run out there and spray it..........they have an idea of where to start then slowly bring up the power till they dial it all in.

Can you catch my meaning?

[STAGE 3 R/T]

got you, so stock spark plugs are ok, just have heard a few things and want to make sure I UNDERSTAND everyting prior... Thanks again!


No one will blow up their car with these small of shots because they ran a SC and a 75 shot together.

I can't put my finger on the EXACT SC-tune to run, with such-and-such octane, with such-and-such plug, and this or that kit with whatever pills; its just not that exact and we aren't running the levels at which things go boom.

If you run the EXTREME SC-tune, with the WORST gas, with the HOTTEST plug, and start with the 50-shot ........you should here it ping and GET THE HELL OUT OF THE BUTTON!

Its common sence.............

I bet you can run 104 octane with the performance tune on the SC, with 1 ranger colder plug, and still hit a 100-shot.

Until you do it, I just can't tell you...........ya know?


+ Nitrous = + Octane = - Plug heat range = -timing
- Nitrous = - Octane = + Plug heat range = + timing

As you creap up your N2O shot and you have a hint of ping / detonation, either add octane, subtract plug heat range, take out timing, or a combo of all the above.

Even the EXPERTS / PROs don't throw in 300+ pills of dope and just run out there and spray it..........they have an idea of where to start then slowly bring up the power till they dial it all in.

Can you catch my meaning?

[FlyByU]

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h115/FlyByU/Wingnut002.jpg http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h115/FlyByU/Wingnut001.jpg

Just got this "wingnut" today from NX. It saves time on removing the bottle and you dont have to have a wrench handy all the time.

[Hemi31]

ooooooooooooo!

[rander]

I've been running the 100 shot with SuperChip 91 tune and 1 step colder plugs. No pinging and all spark plugs look good.

Hey, quick question. Anyone having issues with the remote bottle opener not closing the valve at times? Really pissing me off.

[FlyByU]

Ya, I had to learn how to do it by ear. Just listen to the motor and knew it was closed when the noise sounded strained. Ive got it down now. I used to have problems over torquing it when closing and the motor wouldnt reopen it, lol. Just takes time to get used to it.

[MomsR/T]

will a few of ya'll give us an idea of how you're running?

[MadCharger]

will a few of ya'll give us an idea of how you're running?

Went from 9.15's to 8.61's in the 1/8th mile, with 100 shot and SC91 tune...

[Bo]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v234/borice/timeslip-1.jpg

--Bo

[MomsR/T]

than there are the show offs! :not_worth :not_worth :not_worth

Yeah, I think people will read this post........have just a few questions, then try it, wonder why they hadn't done this before, then whoop up on all kinds of cars............:rock:


BTW.......a 7-anything 1/8 is just plain SICK in a lightly modded 4300lb wagon! (nice 60')

[MadCharger]

Next stop - Heads, cam, and flash :)

[BoiseHemi]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v234/borice/timeslip-1.jpg

--Bo
Daaaaammmmmnnn! What mods are you running please do tell. Thanks

[Nightshade]

What about running 100 shot with propane? propane should increase the octane enough to keep detonation under control right?

I read somewhere that propaine is basically just 145 octane fuel under pressure.. I can't see why you couldn't just spray and instead of tapping the fuel rail for extra 91 octane, use some propane...

Dont' flame me.. I am just currious.. and new to this stuff.

[MomsR/T]

no flame.........I don't know of a gasoline car running propane / nitrous. Only know ofthat on the OTHER fueled trucks.

I just do what I know............

As far as "what Bo has done"............I won't say FOR him, but I can say its an SRT first off, so they run AT LEAST 1 full second faster than we do. I've already said I suspect he'll be the first I've heard of in the 11's and he still as ALL KINDS of stuff he COULD do.

These cars will run fast..........faster than most think. I just feel N2O has been complete abondanded by people that don't like it, don't respect it, and don't understand it.

Because I KNOW how well it works and how easy it is to work with (at SMALL levels) I was motivated to share my thoughts........

[Bo]

Daaaaammmmmnnn! What mods are you running please do tell. Thanks

Magnaflow cats
Magnaflow exhaust
"Dyno Mode" module (traction control)
160 thermo (track use)
Hennessey CAI
Hennessey P&P heads
Hennessey torque converter
Cold Fusion 100hp wet kit

I think the car has .2-.3 more in it as it sits. Even more when the temps cool down. B&G flash is next on the mod list.... and a few other "tweaks". :)

We'll see how things go.

--Bo

[msdnga]

Now that car I would love to run with the 5.7L! Nice times Bo, what does it average off spray?

[BoiseHemi]

Could someone please give me some options of 1 step colder plugs that will work for us. I just have a hard time believing I have to spend 7$ per plug for this system. The part number for the SRT-4 would be great or any equivalent.

[MadCharger]

NGK LZTR5A-13 P/N 4306
Less than $3/ea at sparkplugs.com

[MomsR/T]

Hawaii did some investigation on plug heat ranges and found some numbers too...........I just can't remember.

Mad, how did you find that plugs range?

Marty.........I don't remember why this is, just have always been told this; "Don't run platnium nor iridium plugs with dope"........any clue?

I have always followed that rule......

You don't need dual or quad back strap either.............

What is the stock gap? .055?

You might consider closing a tad with spray.............Marty has more time with these cars thatn I do...........how much are ya'll closing the gap on these?

My guess would be down .01.......

[MadCharger]

I believe I found mine somewhere in a thread by Dookie, or someone else a while back. I also read somewhere about the "do not use platinum or iridium plugs". Not just with dope, but with the hemi in general. Guys running them swear by 'em though.
Stock gap is .045. Recommended gap with juice is .035 - .040. I'm running mine at .035.

[MomsR/T]

Good job..........I'm kicking myself for not putting that in my artical. :doh:

If Marty will chime in and let us know the different options I'll post them in the artical.

That damn thing will be 1 whole page when we're done. :blam:

[msdnga]

I run the standard NGK, and hot coil per cyl or MSD on a distributor block, stay with regular designs, just move the heat range 1 step per 75hp. A great website is the NGK site, then use the plug build option. Heat range 6 to 7 is what I use commonly based upon the hp level I am at on the combo. As for exotics, the coil per cylinder does the job firing, than installing them does for the burn. You do not want to run too cold either or fouling will occur. You can change the reach also, just don't shroud the plug in the threads of the head. Great site I have used for years, check it! Don't forget, the Jap heat range scale is backwards from the others, 5 is stock and 6-7-8 is colder.

[MomsR/T]

Thanks,,,,I'll include a link to such a site.......

I'll be sure to put their part #, Autolite, and CHampion........just for options.

I'll also mention "closing the gap".

[BoiseHemi]

So do you have to close the gap on these plugs or do they come with the gap already where we need them? I orderd the NKG plugs. Thanks

[MadCharger]

So do you have to close the gap on these plugs or do they come with the gap already where we need them? I orderd the NKG plugs. Thanks

You'll need to gap them. They come at about .045

[BoiseHemi]

Thanks I would have just thrown them in. Is there a specific gap I know you say between .035 and .040. You went with .035 is there any reason why.

[MadCharger]

Thanks I would have just thrown them in. Is there a specific gap I know you say between .035 and .040. You went with .035 is there any reason why.

Lots of reading. Some guys run .035, and some .040 - both with good results. I figure the gap can only grow, and not shrink, so I went with the smaller gap.

[MomsR/T]

More gap = more flame

More flame = better burn

HOWEVER..........

N2O = pressure!

Excessive pressure blows out flame.......

So its a balancing act..........you want as much flame as possible but you also don't want issues....as volume of nitrous increases, gap closes.

In extreme cases, guys actually file off the corners of their back strap to make it more round as apposed to rectangular........this decreases the sharp edges which can lead to detonation.

[BoiseHemi]

Wow, once again I feel like I have gotten in over my head but I will pull out the spark gapper and go with .035. I don't think I have gapped a plug since I was in high school, and that was awhile ago. How hard is it to change these plugs? Later

[MomsR/T]

they're up top.......can't be as hard as an LT1 :doh:

[BoiseHemi]

Reeeallly, I meant removing the coil pack to get at the one underneath it.

[MadCharger]

Wow, once again I feel like I have gotten in over my head but I will pull out the spark gapper and go with .035. I don't think I have gapped a plug since I was in high school, and that was awhile ago. How hard is it to change these plugs? Later

Changing the plugs is simple - just takes a while, since there's 16 of 'em!
I used a couple of 3" extensions, and an extension magnet to pull the plugs out after loosening them (I think you can find one at Auto Zone).

[MadCharger]

Reeeallly, I meant removing the coil pack to get at the one underneath it.

That's even easier - just don't drop the screws! And there are 2 plugs under each pack......

EDIT: Oops - You've got the '05, which is slightly different, so I may be wrong........

[BoiseHemi]

Thanks, hey did you get power for the heater from the battery in the back? Also I meant to ask ya, is there only 1/8 mile tracks where you live or can you go to a full 1/4 mile?

[MadCharger]

Thanks, hey did you get power for the heater from the battery in the back?

No - I tapped the same line I ran for power on the nitrous switch - which went to an in line fused line to the positive terminal under the hood. I did ground the heater in the trunk though. It's the one thing I still need to clean up, and put a plug back there, so I can neatly unplug the heater. Right now my wires get all tangled up when I put the bottle in and remove it.
:doh:

[MomsR/T]

changing plugs..........

Please buy some anti-sieze and put a small dab on one side.....it will smear as you screw them in. (dis-similar metals)

When you put the new plugs in do this: Take a fuel or vacumm line that fits over the tit of the new plug going in.........press the tit INTO rubber line so that it holds on real firm......

NOW, use the rubber hose as the tool to hand start the plug in the hole. If it feels too hard to turn the hose, then you are cross threading.......pull out and restab.

Using a socket to thread up leaves you a possiblity to cross thread; this is just a trick to help you. :wink:

[Redfox0099]

Good trick Moms R/T

[BoiseHemi]

Thanks I will get some from work. Also could someone give me the part number for the fitting I need for the zex kit to tap the fuel line? I don't want to replace the line. If I had dimentions I could have one custom made here at work. Thanksgiving

[MadCharger]

Thanks I will get some from work. Also could someone give me the part number for the fitting I need for the zex kit to tap the fuel line? I don't want to replace the line. If I had dimentions I could have one custom made here at work. Thanksgiving

Hmmm...... I wouldn't know what part number that would be - although I know there is someone out there that did tap the stock fuel line. It's much easier though to replace and tap the line that connects the fuel rails - with the connector that comes with the kit.

[BoiseHemi]

Did you just get the new fuel line at the parts store? I just thought there was a fitting out there to use in place of the zex one. How hard was it to change the fuel line?

[MadCharger]

Did you just get the new fuel line at the parts store? I just thought there was a fitting out there to use in place of the zex one. How hard was it to change the fuel line?

Yep. Just bring the fitting that comes with the ZEX over to the auto parts store, and tell them you want a fuel injection fuel line that will fit it. You only need about a foot of it, but buy 2 feet anyway (it's cheap). Also buy 4 hose clamps to fit it. Trying to work with the stock fuel line behind the engine is difficult, unless you're extremely flexible! Changing the fuel line between the fuel rails is very easy - just relieve the fuel pressure, cut the line off each side with your handy razor knife, and install the new line with clamps. Then you cut that line in half, and put your ZEX connector in it, along with the other 2 hose clamps.

[BoiseHemi]

How do you relieve the fuel pressure?

[MadCharger]

How do you relieve the fuel pressure?

STANDARD PROCEDURE -FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE RELEASE PROCEDURE
1. Remove Fuel Pump relay from Power Distribution Center (PDC). For location of relay, refer to label on underside
of PDC cover.
2. Start and run engine until it stalls.
3. Attempt restarting engine until it will no longer run.
4. Turn ignition key to OFF position.

I'll check to see which relay in the rear PDC, and let you know later...

[MadCharger]

Fuel pump relay - found in the trunk PDC - in the bottom picture

http://www.lxforums.com/board/showpost.php?p=238714&postcount=8

[BoiseHemi]

Ok is the only way to calibrate this car with the zex system is to have it running? I have an 05 and was hoping that I didn't have to run the process with the motor on?

[MomsR/T]

yes........Bo said he would give the part # for a tee in the other thread

[mtcraigco]

Ok I academically understand N20 and the use of it. Added fuel is necessary to prevent a lean condition and major probs when adding N2O.

I have kicked around the idea of running an N2O sytem for awhile on several different vehicles. I also understand the principle of the computer "sensing" a lean or cold condition with a dry shot and defaulting to full rich on the injectors thus producing the added fuel.

Safety wise, I would rather run a wet system as it has it's own added fuel and so is less dependent on the vehicle's system to add fuel and prevent catastrophic failure.

BUT here is why I keep thinking about running a dry system.

Even with a wet system , I SERIOUSLY doubt I would go over a 75hp shot. I'm thinking 50 would be a big difference anyway as it's all across the powerband (3000-5000rpm to be safe) and not just at peak. IE "Area under the curve" is increased be alot more than just 50hp at peak power (say 4800-5000 or whatever.)

Also, I want to be sure my motor stays in one piece and it would only be for 'play" and not serious track work. Not to mention tractiopn issues.

Also, a dry system is much easier to remove and leave little or no trace if I should need to take the vehicle to the dealer for service which I don't want to perform myself.

SO How safe is a 50-75 HP dry system? Or should I just suck up and plumb a wet system anyway? Or just forget the idea if I intend to keep the warranty? I popped for the 8yr/80k extended warranty, but it's pro-rate refundalbe if I cancel it.

I know this is kinda choppy but I either need to sh*t or get off the pot about an N2O system. Or wait for a dedicated "Play" car and not a driver.

thanks

Mark

[MadCharger]

Even with a wet system , I SERIOUSLY doubt I would go over a 75hp shot. I'm thinking 50 would be a big difference anyway as it's all across the powerband (3000-5000rpm to be safe) and not just at peak. IE "Area under the curve" is increased be alot more than just 50hp at peak power (say 4800-5000 or whatever.)


Yeah - that's what I thought too - but the extra power is addicting - and believe me, after hitting it with a 50 or 75 shot, you WILL want to go more and hit that 100 shot!! I'm so tempted to go for the 125 shot, but I'm gonna heed the warnings of Mom's and try to keep a lid on it......
:doh:

[MomsR/T]

I think I hear a little frustration........

I can't tell you what you should do; so I'll just answer the other questions.

I don't like dry for the same reasons you indicated..........dry seems a little outside my comfort zone. Wet, if wired with the proper safety devises, is completely safe.

As for making it "top secret", buy an aftermarket CAI and have it plumbed while taking your stock intake when you go for warrenty issues. The wet system is easy as pie to hook up and take off..........

I even know one guy that was running his bottle behind his driver's seat for ease of access.............:roll: .....I will say that he's now got it hooked up right.:wink:

Listen........a 75shot will do wonders for your car.......we've already seen the proof. If you're worried about what the dealership will say, be prepared to take off your headers, CAI, and anything else that isn't 100% bone stock.

Thats the word coming down...........NOTHING AFTERMARKET!

Soooooooo, its not just a nitrous question rather a more "big picture" question.

[mtcraigco]

Ok OK so I'll do the wet system. For some reason, plumbing the fuel side and making it easily removeble is what I'm having the mental block with.

The aftermarket CAI makes lots of sense, or a used stock one would work for cheap. Could probably score one on the boards. Can I mount the solenoids on the CAI? Thereby making it one unit so to speak.

So would I just "tee" into the fuel line and the "cap" it if I removed the system?

[FlyByU]

You can really do whatever you want as far as mounting. You are limited only by your imagination. YOu can mount it on your hood if you want :) Might be hard to get it to look good, but you can do it ;)

[BoiseHemi]

I put mine in the CAI like Mad Charger and it looks great. I will hopefully finish up tomorrow, I have most of the plumbing done and the wires are all run just need hooked up.

[CoolVanilla]

Yet another KB contribution from MomsR/T. Thanks for organizing this in one spot!

[mtcraigco]

I put mine in the CAI like Mad Charger and it looks great. I will hopefully finish up tomorrow, I have most of the plumbing done and the wires are all run just need hooked up.

How about some pics?

:thumbs_u:

[Heavy H.P.]

Whats going on MomR/T

I really hope u see this post befor I have to go out of town in the morning.
But I have took my car to the dealer for blowing blueish white smoke out of the exhaust after it sits for awhile. They said they couldnt find anything wrong with it and the would contact the chrysler reps about it. Well I think they tryed something because the car doesnt do it any more. The reason for saying this is do u think that it would be safe to sray this car? I the coolant is low on my car but i dont know if the motor is really drinking coolant like it has a blown head gasket or am i just paying way to much attenchun to the car. I want to go with a 100 shot of Zex. I think u already posted all the things I will need so I want blow the motor. But if u dont mind could u highlight the speacial things to get and watch out for. Or should I just leave it alone because something could be wrong a Nitrous would just bring the problem to a head?

If you dont see this till monday morning can u send me a pm.

[MomsR/T]

But I have took my car to the dealer for blowing blueish white smoke out of the exhaust after it sits for awhile. This could be almost anything.......I won't comment on this but I've heard of this before, from members, on here. I also know we had a member who had small traces of coolant in his oil when he sent it out to be tested.


They said they couldnt find anything wrong with it and the would contact the chrysler reps about it. Well I think they tryed something because the car doesnt do it any more. It may be because it hadn't set-up much like you discribed......


The reason for saying this is do u think that it would be safe to sray this car? I the coolant is low on my car but i dont know if the motor is really drinking coolant like it has a blown head gasket or am i just paying way to much attenchun to the car. If the car is safe enough for you to drive everyday and you wouldn't hesitate to drive the car, RIGHT NOW, to California on a road trip........then its safe enough to spray IMHO. You won't blow the head gasket from what I've seen.


I want to go with a 100 shot of Zex. I think u already posted all the things I will need so I want blow the motor. But if u dont mind could u highlight the speacial things to get and watch out for. If you're going to spray it, re-read the artical and follow it as close as possible. ALWAYS start praying with the smallest shot possible till you are comfortable and have had time to see if the car is reacting well and not pinging, leaking, or acting wierd.......You will need a kit, alot of 10 gauge wire, some type of tee so you can tee into the fuel line, some colder plugs, some good gas (high octane), and from there its alot of options which I cover. As you know.....the MOST IMPORTANT GUAGE IS THE FUEL PRESSURE GUAGE! If you see a drop in pressure DON'T SPRAY IT! Less fuel than nitrous leads to a lean condition and thats what messes things up...........this could be from a weakening fuel pump, a fuel-line leak, or anything. I am working on a gauge kit to be hidden in your sunglass holder near your map-lights towards your rear view mirror.........so when you spray, you just push on the sunglass holder and it pops open to revel your gauges! :wink:

Or should I just leave it alone because something could be wrong a Nitrous would just bring the problem to a head? I'm not going to lie and say this isn't a possibility........but anything is possible. The older I get the more I believe this is true. However, taking small steps, paying attention to what you do, and asking alot of questions mitigates MOST problems that can happen.


If you dont see this till monday morning can u send me a pm.

Fly and Mad had never done nitrous either and they are now doing well..........anything you do that you haven't done before ALWAYS makes a person uneasy.

Feel free to ask me or these other guys alot of questions and we are always willing to help.

Just make sure you wire in redundant safety such as a 12V master switch (arming switch), a ZEX channel for the TB, AND a spray button thru a relay so you HAVE TO HAVE ALL 3 ON TO SPRAY...........this will insure that your ONLY spraying if you want to spray......no accidents.

NEXT.........you can also wire in a fuel HOBBS pressure sensor.......I always run one of these.

Run a fuel presure guage.........

Run normal copper plugs but 1 range cold...........

Run HIGH octane................

ALWAYS start with the smallest amount of nitrous first..........

[dredog95]

I have bought the zex wet kit along with racers tuning kit.I was wondering if you guys could help with questions for my install?I have removed the spare tire for the tank and ran my line to up front.I have changed my plugs to ngk 4306 gap.035.I have pulled the fuel pump relay and try to start and it didn't.I am going to use the rubber line on top of the intake and replace with new cuz the tee won't work.My first ? is why the fuel hose is still so hard.I don't want to cut into it if it still has pressure.Any help would be nice.I will have more ? if you don't mind. THANKS

[BoiseHemi]

I have not done that yet, I was hoping to save it also so incase I need to go back to the dealer. I will probally get to it this weekend.

[Bo]

I have bought the zex wet kit along with racers tuning kit.I was wondering if you guys could help with questions for my install?I have removed the spare tire for the tank and ran my line to up front.I have changed my plugs to ngk 4306 gap.035.I have pulled the fuel pump relay and try to start and it didn't.I am going to use the rubber line on top of the intake and replace with new cuz the tee won't work.My first ? is why the fuel hose is still so hard.I don't want to cut into it if it still has pressure.Any help would be nice.I will have more ? if you don't mind. THANKS

The lines are not very flexible (and they do not get any softer when there is no pressure in the line)...... and if you cut into a pressurized line, you won't have too much of a mess. I'd suggest just disconnecting the fuel line at the rail.... and if you are worried about fuel spillage, put a towel around it when you disconnect the line. Not THAT much fuel to deal with.
You guys really have no need to cut anything......

--Bo

[dredog95]

:thumbs_u: Thanks Bo

[t.lewis]

you guys dont even wanna know how much spray is on my malibu! lol

[MomsR/T]

I have been busy.......sorry I missed some of the questions.

Thanks to Bo and others for steping in........these guys have good advice.

[LouZ]

newb question......your gona run cooler plugs....do they stay in for normal driving or are they installed when planning to use spray?

Lou Z.

[MadCharger]

newb question......your gona run cooler plugs....do they stay in for normal driving or are they installed when planning to use spray?

Lou Z.


They stay in for normal driving......

[dredog95]

More questions for the wet kit.1.Where is the appm wire on the pcm and what color is it that i tap into at the pcm when i find it?I have the zex traction control window switch coming in the mail soon and i hope it has good instructions.Also nos efi adjustable fuel presure safety switch in the mail soon.2.Do i need to wait for the window switch before i do the appm?3.Can i tap into the cigarette lighter at the ash tray for my arming?4.Where else is there a on off source for my purge and bottle heater up inside that can handle the load?Any help would be nice. THANKS

[MadCharger]

More questions for the wet kit.1.Where is the appm wire on the pcm and what color is it that i tap into at the pcm when i find it?I have the zex traction control window switch coming in the mail soon and i hope it has good instructions.Also nos efi adjustable fuel presure safety switch in the mail soon.2.Do i need to wait for the window switch before i do the appm?3.Can i tap into the cigarette lighter at the ash tray for my arming?4.Where else is there a on off source for my purge and bottle heater up inside that can handle the load?Any help would be nice. THANKS

Not sure where the appm wire is located, I tapped into the tps wire. I believe the cigarette lighter is probably the prefered line to tap into, although I ran a dedicated, fused wire directly to the positive power terminal up front. The drawback to this, is that the car doesn't have to be on to arm it, although with the safety cover on the switch, it's practically impossible to arm it anyway, unless I want to. I also ran the heater to the same wire.

[MomsR/T]

More questions for the wet kit.1.Where is the appm wire on the pcm and what color is it that i tap into at the pcm when i find it?I have the zex traction control window switch coming in the mail soon and i hope it has good instructions.Also nos efi adjustable fuel presure safety switch in the mail soon.2.Do i need to wait for the window switch before i do the appm?3.Can i tap into the cigarette lighter at the ash tray for my arming?4.Where else is there a on off source for my purge and bottle heater up inside that can handle the load?Any help would be nice. THANKS

The APPM wire, Bo said what color and stripe it has.....please PM him. (I plan on getting with him and doing some photo)

Not sure how this window switch will work so I rather not comment......

That NOS fuel-safety is just a fancy Hobbs switch...VERY SMART!

Yes.........the 12V source at the lghter is okay........I've used it before but I need mine for my GPS, cell, and radar.

You can run wire to your fuse box and use any un-used sections or run it straight to the batt but with an in-line fuse..........then wire up a relay so that you can tap into a "switchable on/off"..........if you need clairification please PM me.

[ProAmAuto]

God Bless this thread! I am trying to install an NX wet kit on an R/T Hemi Charger, and I am trying to use the NX TPAS throttle position switch tapped into the throttle body. I found the wire that voltage changes from .7v idle to ~4.0v w.o.t. at tapped into it. Problem is that I can't get the d**n TPAS to "learn" wot. I even tried jacking the car up, taking the wheels off, and disabling the traction control to get a "full pull". The thing still is not "learning" WOT. Is the ZEX TB device any different than the NX TPAS ??? Any other suggestions to get this thing to spray?

Thanks!

[MadCharger]

I know with the ZEX, you had to hold WOT for 10 seconds. Not sure what the NX requires. I did mine by standing on the brake, fully engaging the E-brake, and holding it WOT. This seems silly, but there are NO roads anywhere near me to allow a 10 second WOT run....

[Bo]

God Bless this thread! I am trying to install an NX wet kit on an R/T Hemi Charger, and I am trying to use the NX TPAS throttle position switch tapped into the throttle body. I found the wire that voltage changes from .7v idle to ~4.0v w.o.t. at tapped into it. Problem is that I can't get the d**n TPAS to "learn" wot. I even tried jacking the car up, taking the wheels off, and disabling the traction control to get a "full pull". The thing still is not "learning" WOT. Is the ZEX TB device any different than the NX TPAS ??? Any other suggestions to get this thing to spray?

Thanks!

I found that connecting the TPS switch to the accelerator pedal makes things a LOT easier with regards to programming. The APPM uses a 5 volt signal just as the TPS does..... without intervention from HAL..... and you can program it with the key on, engine off.

--Bo

[ManWagon]

Zex has a new kit just fo lx's.

http://www.zex.com/Catalog/NP2007/COMPcams_07NP.pdf

[Beast 2]

I can't remember if this was answered earlier or not...

On platinum plugs - with some plug designs that have a little platinum "disk", "tab", or "point" stuck on them, the increased cylinder pressure from nitrous would blow it off and the plug gap would grow a bunch so the car ran like crap. I blew the platinum off some AC Delco plugs on a LT1.

The SRT8's come with the platinum version of the NGK 4306 in them from the factory. The long part number is the same but the platinum plugs part number starts with a "P".

I like the way you guys are being conservative with your nitrous. A 100 shot is a lot of fun and pretty safe, especially with a ZEX kit.

For what it's worth, (and I am not trying to contridict anyone or reccomend this to anyone) the HEMI truck guys have been hitting stock 5.7 motors with 150 shot with no problems. This is the most that a ZEX kit is good for. There are other guys running 2 stages for 150 shot and more. The fastest HEMI truck I know of is running 2 stages for a combined 200-225 shot (he has gone 300 shot on 3 stages before, but the truck slowed down) with a stock short block. He uses a Plasma Booster (it's an ignition amplifier), Water/Meth injection, and progressive controllers. It's a serious nitrous set up, but it works good. I think his best run to date is a 12.02 or something close to that.

Oh yeah, the 6.1 intake with the fogger on pg. 2 is mine, and it's going to be installed pretty soon.

[Bo]

Oh yeah, the 6.1 intake with the fogger on pg. 2 is mine, and it's going to be installed pretty soon.

Can I "borrow" it for a few days before you install it? :not_worth

--Bo

[bklynmag]

Bo, Is there a certain color coded wire you used to wire up to the accelerator pedal?

[Beast 2]

If I felt comfortable just tapping the stock fuel line for it then it would already be installed. I was going to do a stand alone fuel system for the nitrous (that intake plus a 2 stage NX kit), but now I am going to do a complete new fuel system for the whole truck.

I am also sending you a PM.

[MomsR/T]

The truck intake is different from the 5.7 LX intake........we already know this has led to issues. Another thing that concerns me is the high pressure due to the LSA.

The SRT intakes and cams are different so I have no idea what to recommend.

Yes, I always lean toward consevative HOWEVER, we already have a 100-shot guy in the 11's so its not "just for fun".

We also saw a guy in Houston in a Charger run a 100 shot with little else done run in the high 12's.

Because I can't be there for each install, each run, and such.......I prefer guys start with the 75 shot, get to know the car, work out any issue, then move to the 100 shot.

I prefer guys run no exotic plugs............no plat, iridium, or whatever.......all have had known issues with dope.

[Bo]

Bo, Is there a certain color coded wire you used to wire up to the accelerator pedal?

Try this website (thanks again fnky!)......

http://dto.vftis.com/mopar/platform_select.asp
1

F856 20YL/PK
5 VOLT SUPPLY

2

K29 20WT/BR
APPS NO. 2 SIGNAL

3

K400 20BR/VT
APPS NO. 2 RETURN


4


K167 20BR/YL
APPS NO. 1 RETURN

5

K23 20BR/WT
APPS NO. 1 SIGNAL

6

F855 20PK/YL
5 VOLT SUPPLY

I tapped one of the signal wires...... probably pin 5 (APPS #1 signal). Test it with a voltmeter to confirm....... Voltage should vary based on pedal pressure. If I have the PCM out of the car in the next few days... I will confirm the wire and snap a few pics.....

--Bo

[bklynmag]

Wow. Thanks for the info

[SERBS_HEMI_C]

Well MOM.. i guess i am the geek of the crew.. i just refered to it as NOS in another post on the 6.1L section

[jaak]

I found that connecting the TPS switch to the accelerator pedal makes things a LOT easier with regards to programming. The APPM uses a 5 volt signal just as the TPS does..... without intervention from HAL..... and you can program it with the key on, engine off.

--Bo

Since the TB and the gas pedal don't track the same, do you have any concerns about doing this?

[PhatPhat]

sorry didt want to read 9 pages, but what about nos on the 2.7, is it safe, will it work, will my car blow up, just a few concerns lol... maybe just a 50shot ?

[PhatPhat]

anyone

[BoiseHemi]

I would say yes if they make a kit for it...most of us have been using the Zex kit. I would look around on line for kits...if they have one look into it. Once you find a kit we will go from there.

[bguild]

Okay guys I have read all these and wow what a great write up. Thanks for everyones help.. Here are some more questions i have mainly related to Safety. I understand nitrous and how it works in the engine. I feel fully comfident that it can be ran safely if you dont get to happy and you put the proper safeguards in place. Here is my story..

I recently traded my sxt in for a r/t and wow love the thing like 400 times more. Anyway I have a little girl on the way my first in aug. I bought the magnum for a daily driver and also to have some fun with.. a hot rod of sorts. I do plan to possibly start drag racing in the near future. Nirtous sounds very appealing to me because I can turn it on at the track and then turn it off and still have my daily driver. I feel being able to turn my car into a monster on track nights would be the way to go. I do have some concerns though-- Mainly cause of safety with a little girl on the way. Well if it was a boy I would just say hold on tight son haha. No probably not but you know how it is. Anyway when driving this as a daily driver. Is it safe to have a bottle of Nirtous in the back set where my baby is sitting? I have a magnum by the way so I assume i would set it in a side pocket in the back. if I got in a wreck could it cause problems? Another question is.. Could I take the bottle out when i am not at the track and keep it in my garage or something? can you guys just reassure me that this would be a great idea or should I just stick with simple mods and wait till the girl gets a little older. I hope the case is I can just take the bottle out during the week and be good to go..

[MomsR/T]

Many people release the pressure and store the bottle(s)

Some people drive around with it...........

Is it safe in a wreck?

Yes............if the bottle is ruptured and it leaks, it's safe

ALWAYS use a pressure pop-off valve............they usually come with it.

I prefer to use automatic bottle warmers that turn off w/ pressure when it exceeds 1100 psi

I also wire a bottle warmer w/ keyed power vs constant

These are all safety tips................

[bguild]

so unplugging is okay.. how do you release the pressure in the bottles?

[MomsR/T]

close bottle

purge thru a purge system

take out bottle

put piece of masking tape over open end of hose (no trash in line)

DONE!

[bklynmag]

Slowly!! . . . .LOL.



You can use a purge kit or close the bottle and loosen the attachment fitting to the bottle slowly.

[bklynmag]

Beat me to it Lee by seconds !!

[MomsR/T]

:Na_Na_Na_Na: :Na_Na_Na_Na: :Na_Na_Na_Na:

[bguild]

Thanks for the info guys.. Its really helping me understand this.

[aarcuda]

Since I don't see specifics on this I thought I would add...

Did some voltage testing on TB wires and the Brown with Orange tracer (TP SENSOR NO. 1 SIGNAL) from the TB gives a good voltage reading for throttle position sensor switches.

Reads .773 volts at closed and 4.73 volts at wide open. All I did was turned ignition to on and then just open the TB by hand.

[Fast56k]

Another safety tip is never leave your bottle warmer on when you have the gas off. The heater will keep heating since the pressure sensor isn't getting the bottle pressure, only the pressure that is left in the line. You could end up overheating the bottle and venting your entire bottle out the pressure valve. I hooked my heater and pressure guage up to the same circiut. I have to manually turn on the heater which also turns on the guage. If the guage has power, I know the heater has power. If they both have power, I double check that the bottle is open.

C.

[aarcuda]

Window Switch. Another update for those who choose to run window switches and hopefully it is helpful.

I chose to use a MSD digital window switch #8969 as it has settings for everything from 1 cyl tach pickup to 12 cyl and can be programmed for all kinds of on/off rpm ranges.

Now on to the good stuff...

After testing with a multimeter I have confirmed that we want the blue with whatever color tracer for the pickup point. I have tied my device to cyl 1 coil pack which is Blue with Green tracer. The MSD system is defaulted to 8 cyl mode and I see exactly what we expect, just about no good rpm read until about 2K+. When I program it down to 1 cyl mode it immediately picks ups the correct rpms!:banana:

[NYC_SRT8]

Window Switch. Another update for those who choose to run window switches and hopefully it is helpful.

I chose to use a MSD digital window switch #8969 as it has settings for everything from 1 cyl tach pickup to 12 cyl and can be programmed for all kinds of on/off rpm ranges.

Now on to the good stuff...

After testing with a multimeter I have confirmed that we want the blue with whatever color tracer for the pickup point. I have tied my device to cyl 1 coil pack which is Blue with Green tracer. The MSD system is defaulted to 8 cyl mode and I see exactly what we expect, just about no good rpm read until about 2K+. When I program it down to 1 cyl mode it immediately picks ups the correct rpms!:banana:

What language are you typing in?...lol. I'm a little slow, please try a put that in plain terms. I have a zex window switch on order and would love a helpful hint on how to install / configure it.

Thanks in advance,

Will

[aarcuda]

What language are you typing in?...lol. I'm a little slow, please try a put that in plain terms. I have a zex window switch on order and would love a helpful hint on how to install / configure it.

Thanks in advance,

Will
Sorry about that, must be my Klingon:doh: .

Window switches work based on the rpm readings from the coil. Since our cars have individual coil packs and do not "waste" spark at low rpm we cannot get good rpm readings until we are above (approx.) 2000 rpms.

FYI - The window switch reads the rpms and will allow current to flow and let the nitrous and fuel solenoids activate at your set intervals of rpm range. This means that if you can't get good rpm readings the window switch will not work correctly.

I do not know if there will be issues with the Zex switch but the connection wire to the coil pack should be the same if it is a negative current switch. If you ordered Zex PN#82085 I think you will be ok as that unit looks like it can read the coil signal correctly after programming.

This is about as simple as I can describe this piece of the nitrous install wiring puzzle. Be sure to read and re-read and read again how the Zex system works. I have spent at least 10 hours researching how I was going to wire my system (not Zex) before finally connecting wires the last two days.

[NYC_SRT8]

Sorry about that, must be my Klingon:doh: .

Window switches work based on the rpm readings from the coil. Since our cars have individual coil packs and do not "waste" spark at low rpm we cannot get good rpm readings until we are above (approx.) 2000 rpms.

FYI - The window switch reads the rpms and will allow current to flow and let the nitrous and fuel solenoids activate at your set intervals of rpm range. This means that if you can't get good rpm readings the window switch will not work correctly.

I do not know if there will be issues with the Zex switch but the connection wire to the coil pack should be the same if it is a negative current switch. If you ordered Zex PN#82085 I think you will be ok as that unit looks like it can read the coil signal correctly after programming.

This is about as simple as I can describe this piece of the nitrous install wiring puzzle. Be sure to read and re-read and read again how the Zex system works. I have spent at least 10 hours researching how I was going to wire my system (not Zex) before finally connecting wires the last two days.


Ahhhh, this language is familar to me...lol. Thanks for putting it in "Barney" terms for me. Thats the exact part number I purchased and I'm not stranger to reading instruction over and over:thumbs_u: .

Thanks again my friend:beerchug:

Will

[4U2NV]

Okay, I'm sure the question has been answered in this very thread, but I'm still not 100% for sure on a few things. I purchased the ZEX kit and have it partly installed right now. Here are my questions:

1. Where is the TPS wire? I see above (from aarcuda's reply) that there is a Brown/Orange wire at the TB. Is that what I hook the white wire from the ZEX unit to? Or does it go into the cab of the car?

2. I have the Super Chips FlashPaq. I'm reading about retarding the timing, or removing any chips. But I see in this thread that we can use the Super Chips in conjunction with the nitrous. Is there a special setting I need to utilize? Last thing I want is a bad detonation.

3. Finally (and dont laugh), I dont know how to mount the bottle. I can't put it in the spare tire well because I have the air suspension items in there. So, I want to put it on the top part of the trunk just on the other side of the spare tire well. Did that even make sence? I dont know if it is safe to bolt it down in that area. What resides under the trunk?

Thanks for your help.

[4U2NV]

Just wanted to bump for my questions above.

[NYC_SRT8]

Okay, I'm sure the question has been answered in this very thread, but I'm still not 100% for sure on a few things. I purchased the ZEX kit and have it partly installed right now. Here are my questions:

1. Where is the TPS wire? I see above (from aarcuda's reply) that there is a Brown/Orange wire at the TB. Is that what I hook the white wire from the ZEX unit to? Or does it go into the cab of the car?

2. I have the Super Chips FlashPaq. I'm reading about retarding the timing, or removing any chips. But I see in this thread that we can use the Super Chips in conjunction with the nitrous. Is there a special setting I need to utilize? Last thing I want is a bad detonation.

3. Finally (and dont laugh), I dont know how to mount the bottle. I can't put it in the spare tire well because I have the air suspension items in there. So, I want to put it on the top part of the trunk just on the other side of the spare tire well. Did that even make sence? I dont know if it is safe to bolt it down in that area. What resides under the trunk?

Thanks for your help.


I can help you out with question 1 & 3.

1st, the tps wire he was talking about hooks up to the TPS which is between the plenum and air intake. The wires are cover by tape but if you look closer to the tps the wires are visible. Again they're a few brown wires but only one is brown with a orange line running down the middle of it. Yes thats where you tap into it.

Now for your 3rd question. You can mount the bottle in your trunk however you like as long as the bottle is at a 45 degree or greater.

[bklynmag]

FYI - Rather than use the Switch at the throttle body, a lot of us are using the same on top of the gas pedal. There is an issue where the switch at the throttle body does not always read consistent voltage.

[HEMIDON]

Here is how I mounted my bottle. I wanted is out of the way but accessable. The mount actualy has 2 disadvantages. Because the the pick up is not directly in the bottom of the bottle I can only get about 8LB out and still get liquid. Another disavantage is that a bottle opener won't fit. Still I'm getting a 2nd bottle and mounting it the same way on the left side

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p96/HEMIDON/NITROUS/NITROUS034.jpg

[HEMIDON]

FYI - Rather than use the Switch at the throttle body, a lot of us are using the same on top of the gas pedal. There is an issue where the switch at the throttle body does not always read consistent voltage.

Mine is on a push button. I wanted to turn it on and off manualy. I want to be able to run WOT without nitrous or turn it on after 3000 RPM

Here's my set up. The button is under the cup holder cover.

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p96/HEMIDON/NITROUS/NITROUS021.jpg

Here are the purge, heater switches and NO-ESP

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p96/HEMIDON/NITROUS/NITROUS018.jpg

Here's the arming switch

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p96/HEMIDON/NITROUS/nitrouswiring001.jpg

[4U2NV]

Mine is on a push button. I wanted to turn it on and off manualy. I want to be able to run WOT without nitrous or turn it on after 3000 RPM

Here's my set up. The button is under the cup holder cover.

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p96/HEMIDON/NITROUS/NITROUS021.jpg

Here are the purge, heater switches and NO-ESP

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p96/HEMIDON/NITROUS/NITROUS018.jpg

Here's the arming switch

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p96/HEMIDON/NITROUS/nitrouswiring001.jpg
Thanks for this info. I plan to move my arming switch to the same spot as yours. It is currently under the steering wheel to the left and it is so getto.

Thanks for your bottle mount picture too. I thought about doing that also, because I have the nitrogen tank exactly like that on the left side of the trunk.

[HEMIDON]

The little button is from Radio Shack. They come in a 2 pack with a black one and a red one. The switch had a little cap on it. I took the cap off and cut the stem flat on the end so is would be easy on the finger. Keep in mind, the button can only handle 1 amp (10amp@125) so you can only use it as a TPS simulator.

[BoiseHemi]

Just thought I would add mine to the mix...I now have a bottle opener installed....its a little packed but works. No more "oh crap my bottle is not open". Love it!

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m205/Hemiwagon/HPIM0998.jpg

[4U2NV]

Great pix guys. Thanks. I'm still a little bit lost with the TSB. I hooked that up just fine, but in reading and trying to understand, the nitrous will spray when I'm at wide open throttle. But I'm at wide open throttle from start to finish. I dont want to spray all the way down the track. But I see that people are adding the spray button. What does that get hooked to? My ZEX system is hooked up but I haven't used it yet. Waiting for the chance to get to Palmdale in a couple of weeks.

[aarcuda]

But I'm at wide open throttle from start to finish. I dont want to spray all the way down the track. But I see that people are adding the spray button. What does that get hooked to?
Basically adding a push button switch inline of one of your wires that would, when at full throttle, and then pressing the button allow the nitrous to flow. Others like me are using a window switch that is tied to rpm to allow the nitrous to flow at certain ranges of rpm.

Someone else should be able to tell you the wire to use on the Zex kit.

[Hemi31]

Here's my arming switch.....(Rear wiper Button)
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e379/ESC3/NitrousSwitch002.jpg
spray button.....
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e379/ESC3/NitrousSwitch005.jpg

[lowriderman3]

^^Cool location..Now clean that interior! LOL :)

[HEMIDON]

I'm still a little bit lost with the TSB. I hooked that up just fine, but in reading and trying to understand, the nitrous will spray when I'm at wide open throttle. But I'm at wide open throttle from start to finish. I dont want to spray all the way down the track. But I see that people are adding the spray button. What does that get hooked to? My ZEX system is hooked up but I haven't used it yet. Waiting for the chance to get to Palmdale in a couple of weeks.

The ZEX controler can be programed to see the voltage swing of the TPS or any min/max voltage difference. The system can be set to work at WOT with the TPS or with a momentary switch. The system has to be wired one way ot the other, not both. If you want to run with the button you need to feed the button with 12V with a min. 80K ohm inline resistor, I used 100K. From the button you feed the TPS trigger wire on the controler (white wire) You MUST use a resistor on the feed, otherwise you will cook the ZEX controler electronics.

[Dookie]

Just hook the button switch in line with the arming switch.

[aarcuda]

Well I got my Miller Special Tool:banana:, part# 6631, that will allow me to now pull the fuel to the solenoid from it instead of the current t-splice. $63.11 from my Matco buddy. My Dodge dealer wouldn't order it for me:sad: but since they probably would have charged over $100 I am now happy they didn't:)
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/AAR_Cuda/NX/DSCF1562.jpg

[Ghostface Mag]

Well I got my Miller Special Tool:banana:, part# 6631, that will allow me to now pull the fuel to the solenoid from it instead of the current t-splice. $63.11 from my Matco buddy. My Dodge dealer wouldn't order it for me:sad: but since they probably would have charged over $100 I am now happy they didn't:)
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/AAR_Cuda/NX/DSCF1562.jpg

Nice clean look.....:thumbs_u:

[4U2NV]

Alright, everything is hooked up and I have used it about 7 or 8 times. One of those times was to smoke a mustang. Now, I understand I have to go with colder plugs. What kind are you running or what would you recomend?

[06SilverSteel]

If you're at a 100 hp shot of n2o you need to go at least one heat range colder.....two wouldn't hurt. you can go to a parts store, tell them the plugs that are in the car and they wil be able to find you one that is one range colder to fit your application.

[aarcuda]

Thought I would post here for the knowledge base.

Wiring diagram for NX nitrous system on a 06' Charger R/T using TPS(Throttle position sensor), Hobbs switch(Low fuel pressure cut off), and Window switch(RPM based N2O on/off switch).
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/AAR_Cuda/NX/nxwwstpswiringfor06ChargerRT.jpg

[rander]

:thumbs_u: Maybe you should get you ROI by selling those on the site. I'm sure people would like to buy them. How much do you want for a setup like that? Seriously.

Well I got my Miller Special Tool:banana:, part# 6631, that will allow me to now pull the fuel to the solenoid from it instead of the current t-splice. $63.11 from my Matco buddy. My Dodge dealer wouldn't order it for me:sad: but since they probably would have charged over $100 I am now happy they didn't:)
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/AAR_Cuda/NX/DSCF1562.jpg

[rander]

Any of you guys using the Traction control switch from Zex. It works flawless. Not only an extra safety net, but you can have it programmed to close the loop withina an rmp range or skip shifts. I guess this would be great for the guys with the 6.1 hemi's that have traction problems in first.

.02

[FlyByU]

Rander, I thought you were having issues with your window switch. You get it all figured out? If so, what was the problem.

[rander]

I messed up on a setting:

Switch Settings:

TACH Signal: 01 < -------------- I had this set to 18. Don't ask me how i got that number. :)

Traction Control Skip-Shift: 0
Activation RPM: 2800
Deactivation: 5600

BTW, these numbers i got from MangoInTexas and work like a champ!!!

Rander, I thought you were having issues with your window switch. You get it all figured out? If so, what was the problem.

[FlyByU]

Cool, one of these days you need to post pics of how you have it wired etc.... Most people have trouble installing the window switch for some reason.

[greggk]

awesome good to know info... now time for me to go start picking out my kit

[mag06]

Very good write up.For someone like me that knew zip about it I learned a lot.Though not likely to ever do it is a VERY good read .

Jim

[Maistro69]

Bump! :thumbs_u: After reading this thread several times over I feel a LOT more comfortable with the bottle. I've actually ordered the Zex kit, Diablo and some other goodies that should be here just in time to install over the Christmas holidays so I can spread the holiday cheer a little faster :rock:
so Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to all !!!:beerchug:

[FlyByU]

This thread is a great thread for those learning nitrous. Helped me a ton.

[sik300srt8]

Fuel Pressure Safety Switches? which one would be recomended for a Zex Kit 82177 or are you guys using one?
which one would it be
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-15685NOS-Fuel-Pressure-Safety-Switch-1-8-in-NPT_W0QQitemZ320198111452QQihZ011QQcategoryZ33740Q QrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p1638 .m118
or this one
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nitrous-Express-15718-Fuel-Pressure-Safety-Switch_W0QQitemZ320189199291QQihZ011QQcategoryZ337 40QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p1 638.m118
or am i looking at the wrong stuff..already purchase xtra stuff like nitrous filter, wing nut, goin to purchase the fogger plate too. this forum is awesome.:thumbs_u:
thnx

[1FST4DR]

I would think either one will work...

[sik300srt8]

are you using one ? and do you have any more pics of your set up? love the pic of the dual purge you posted.

[1FST4DR]

Nope,I dont use one..Should I??Maybe,but I dont..I will PM you some pics,I dont want to booger up thid thread..lol

[1FST4DR]

Then again,It is a N20 thread..I will put them here..Pleae stand by..lol

[1FST4DR]

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s73/1FST4DR/DSC04597.jpg
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s73/1FST4DR/DSC04596.jpg
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s73/1FST4DR/DSC03963.jpg
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s73/1FST4DR/Purge2.jpg



Please note,I do not use the red Catch can in the pic.It was a worthless..Pics taken before Billet tech came out with thiers...

[1FST4DR]

OLD SET-UP..Using the Nozzle before the Plate and new rails..
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s73/1FST4DR/N2O.jpg

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s73/1FST4DR/Hood2.jpg
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s73/1FST4DR/Bottles.jpg

[sik300srt8]

awesome...got any of your switches?
are you using a Traction Control RPM Window Switch ?
NICE fogger plate:rock: did you notice any improvement with it?
:bling:

[1FST4DR]

awesome...got any of your switches?
are you using a Traction Control RPM Window Switch ?
NICE fogger plate:rock: did you notice any improvement with it?
:bling:


The plate hits harder:mrgreen: Seems to mix better...I have nothing special on my switches.Just a arming switch,Purge.Located on the trim panel near the truck release button..I dont use a RPM switch either.Again I probably should but I dont..http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s73/1FST4DR/Switches.jpg

[1FST4DR]

You could also get Billet tech to make a custom switch panel for you..Like this one
http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=92643

[sik300srt8]

thnx again you have been very helpfull...2bottles:shock:
you are now my screen saver:not_worth gonna buy those parts anyways since i don't wanna risk my engine for a 50 dollards.
:beerchug: i'll post pics in march of my setup..

[1FST4DR]

thnx again you have been very helpfull...2bottles:shock:
you are now my screen saver:not_worth gonna buy those parts anyways since i don't wanna risk my engine for a 50 dollards.
:beerchug: i'll post pics in march of my setup..

Cool,Any questions let me know.Keep us posted..

[sik300srt8]

You could also get Billet tech to make a custom switch panel for you..Like this one
http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=92643

Im so gettin that....thnx again

[Beast 2]

I am pretty sure the zex NMU (the purple box) has a fuel pressure safety switch in it.

[sik300srt8]

I am pretty sure the zex NMU (the purple box) has a fuel pressure safety switch in it.
It does? it would save me 50 dollards to purchase that sweet switch
panel from billet. Can anybody confirm this:beerchug:

[lou1355]

Very informative. Thanks for taking the time to put together a very interesting and functional post.

I don't have a stealth setup, but it's a functional mix of Zex, Nitrous Outlet & NOS pieces, desrcibed here: http://lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=93622

My comments:

1) I have chosen N2O over forced air and stuck with the decision because: a) these hemi motors respond very well to the N2O, b) I've got a stroker motor with good compression and strong internals that gives me excellent non-N2O street performance, c) with a Diablo dyno tune and two maps on your predator, switching bwteen N2O and Non-N2O tunes is a piece of cake, and 4) even though it can be a pain in the butt to keep the bottle full and there are other preliminary actions required to go to full performance, as has been stated before, for tooling around town you don't have the additional load, heat & complexity of a forced air system.

Having said that, here are some nits/comments:

2) I'm pretty sure air is 78% Nitrogen and nearly 21% Oxygen (not 6% - 8% O2) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Earth's_atmosphere N2O is 67% Nitrogen and 33% Oxygen, with the key benefits being the cold temp of the charge and the weak notrogen-oxygen molecular bonds, making the O2 readily available in the combustion chamber. CO2 (carbon dioxide) is 67% Oxygen, but the strong covalent bonds between the Oxygen and the Carbon atoms make the O2 unavailable to support combustion, which is why they use CO2 to put out fires (not good for our motors, huh?).

2. Given the concerns about the 6.1 intake's ability to evenly distribute aux gasoline delivered via injectors or perhaps foggers fore or aft of the TB, I have reduced my wet system gas jet to the minimum (.014) and rely instead on dyno-tuned, larger injectors and an upgraded fuel pump to deliver a proper and consistent AFR to all cylinders. Now, I know the N2O should be atomizing the gasoline and minimizing the distribution problem, especially with a fogger plate aft of the TB, but to my mind, misting the proper amount of fuel at each cylinder via the injector just seems more likely to maintain proper, individual cylinder AFR's.

3. One gauge that should be near the top of the list is a good Air/Fule Ratio gauge. I use a wide-band, digital Innovate mounted on the A-pillar, and nearly always find time to give it a look during a run. It's comforting to see the AFR staying in the 11's during WOT operation (like my ET's).

4. A progressive N2O controller is not only effective, it's a helluva lot of fun to play with at the track. I.E., "I wonder what will happen if I change...." You can change the delay time, begin percent, ramp up time and end percent in 30 seconds worth of hand-held programming in the staging lanes.

Well, I'm fairly new to this fun hobby and I don't claim any particular expertise, but there are my two cents so far.

[1FST4DR]

Nice write up Lou....

[HEMIDON]

Here are a few pics of my set up. My first stage is on a WOT throttle switch. The second stage is on a push button trigger.

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p96/HEMIDON/NITROUS/NITROUS009-1.jpg

Controler location

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p96/HEMIDON/NITROUS/NITROUSPLUMBING006.jpg

Arming Switch

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p96/HEMIDON/NITROUS/nitrouswiring001.jpg

Trigger Switch

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p96/HEMIDON/NITROUS/nitrouswiring002.jpg

[1FST4DR]

^^^^^ Any track use yet????^^^^

[HEMIDON]

^^^ Yea, the 2nd stage took off about .5 in the quarter. My best time was a 12.48, I forget the speed. I did go up about 20HP on the total shot. Right now I'm running .002 rich on each stage. I have the nitrous jets in for 65 on the first shot and 75 on the second stage. Net total spray is probably in the 120 range with no k/s except at the end of the run in 3rd. Before I run in the spring I will get a nitrous tune, and run with a wideband. I also hope to do the motor so I can spray it heavier and not break.

[BoiseHemi]

Nice I have never seen a dual stage for our rides yet....I am hoping FRI's plate kit is all it is supposed to be. Later!

[sik300srt8]

awesome info guys...wouldn't a progressive controller be just like ZEX Nitrous Traction Control RPM Window Switch. For a beginner like me , what are the benifits of spending an extra $80. or am I being cheap:roll:!!

[BoiseHemi]

awesome info guys...wouldn't a progressive controller be just like ZEX Nitrous Traction Control RPM Window Switch. For a beginner like me , what are the benifits of spending an extra $80. or am I being cheap:roll:!!

Do you have some info on this switch? I have had my kit for over a year with no window or fuel pressure switch. I don't really care for a window switch but the fuel pressure is another safety measure that I should probably get. The Zex is supposed to sense the pressure for you and adjust accordingly but you can never be too safe with this and our motors. Later!

Just looked at the window switch....kindof cool.

[lou1355]

A progressive controller has an RPM "window" as one of its many features. The fun stuff (to me) is the ability to set the delay (how long in tenths of seconds do you want the nitrous to start after main and WOT activation?) the advent percent (what percent from 10% to 99% do you want the nitrous to start at?) the ramp up time (how long in tenths of seconds do you want it take to ramp up to your final percent?) and the end percent (do you want a full shot at the end of the ramp up or some lesser value down to 10%).

[BoiseHemi]

So are you saying that with the progressive you can lets say.....come out of the hole with a 50 shot or 50% and progressively get to the 100 or 75 you are jetted for?

[lou1355]

Right now, I come out of the hole on motor only to let the DR's hook. 3 tenths of a second later, the nitrous begins at 10% and progresses to 99% (full) over the next second. So, by 1.3 seconds into the run, I'm at full nitrous and I'm a few tenths from covering the first 60 ft.

I can vary all the parameters: more delay, more or less start percentage, more or less ramp time & more or less end percentage. The idea is to pour as much power to it as possible without breaking traction.

[BoiseHemi]

So is this a Zex system? Is the controller inline or a stand alone unit? Sorry for all the questions just curious about it. I have a Zex and I am happy with it....but if you could add something like this on to it that would be sweet.

[lou1355]

I had a Zex box, but I think I caught some bottle crud in the nitrous solenoid (power down and bottle usage down). In changing out the solenoid, I damaged the Zex circuit board. In researching options, I went with some Nitous Outlet solenoids and a NOS controller. The controller is mounted in the glove box with wires through the firewall to controll the solenoids. Here is the link to my install pics: http://lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=93622

[J Field]

Hi Guys,

I run the zex complete system, Bottle Heater, Purge, Bottle openor, Window Switch, and I find it to be very safe, I have used my predator to change timing so I can run a 125 shot, I will say the window switch is very usefull, the premise the zex switch works on is two criteria (WOT & RPM) the switch ties into the TPS and Management unit and how it works is by rpm once it sees WOT, what I like the most about it is the ability to set the rpm, I run mine @3000 on and 5800 off in case of any issue with shifting, as you already know our cars cut fuel as a rev limiter, it makes the system extremly easy, just arm and stand on it... for those of you with traction issues this switch also has a skip shift option so you can remove spray in 1st and spray in 2nd, 3rd etc. I did the complete install my self and found it to be rather painless al you need is a plan!

[sik300srt8]

why couldn't you be in ontario

[RDunn]

Hello guys, found this thread from another board.great write up.

i just order'd my Zex kit today and i have a question about timing/tune

first off car is a 07 5.7 daytona

mods include~Mopar LT header's,highflow cats,Lm1 catback,mopar cai and a predator on the 91 cai canned tune

from reading the thread im going to start out with the 75 shot.

questions,

1) do i have to switch plugs to the cloder range for this shot?if so part # please and where to find

2)as for the predator,when im going to use the bottle,should i just load the factory tune back in the car?

[bremo76]

thanks good read.

[SublimeTime]

Great writeup. Now. At the track, what type of jacket does one need when using N2O?

[BoiseHemi]

Great writeup. Now. At the track, what type of jacket does one need when using N2O?


Usually it is a stage 1 fire jacket. You can get them from Summit for about $65 bucks. I have yet to get one....they know I have the spray but haven't busted me yet. Later!

[aarcuda]

Don't forget the blowdown tube that is required by NHRA tracks.

[bremo76]

what is a good maker of a direct port system?

[SublimeTime]

Can anyone put up a pic of the installed fuel delivery line. Thanks

[BoiseHemi]

Is this what you were looking for? Sorry not the best pic. I did replace the stock fuel line...that thing was a pain in my butt to get off.

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m205/Hemiwagon/HPIM0989.jpg

[SublimeTime]

Don't forget the blowdown tube that is required by NHRA tracks.


Hey cuda, can a flexible hose be attached to the blowdown tube and be routed through a body plug in the trunk or does it have to be vented outside on it's own? Also, does anyone know the size of the fuel line as I need to buy the fuel line quick disconnect tool and I notice there are various sizes available. Thanks.

[aarcuda]

Hey cuda, can a flexible hose be attached to the blowdown tube and be routed through a body plug in the trunk or does it have to be vented outside on it's own?
I don't know the answer I would do a search for nitrous(or blowdown tube) and NHRA.
Also, does anyone know the size of the fuel line as I need to buy the fuel line quick disconnect tool and I notice there are various sizes available. Thanks.
This product is the coolest I have seen for tapping the fuel! Ours is the top one.
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Pages/FuelRailAdapt.htm

[SublimeTime]

I don't know the answer I would do a search for nitrous(or blowdown tube) and NHRA.

This product is the coolest I have seen for tapping the fuel! Ours is the top one.
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Pages/FuelRailAdapt.htm


Thanks cuda

[sinistersix]

Hello guys, found this thread from another board.great write up.

i just order'd my Zex kit today and i have a question about timing/tune

first off car is a 07 5.7 daytona

mods include~Mopar LT header's,highflow cats,Lm1 catback,mopar cai and a predator on the 91 cai canned tune

from reading the thread im going to start out with the 75 shot.

questions,

1) do i have to switch plugs to the cloder range for this shot?if so part # please and where to find

2)as for the predator,when im going to use the bottle,should i just load the factory tune back in the car?

I need to know this as well. I am new to n2o and dont want to screw anything up. I am getting the zex 75 shot, and currently have the 93 cai tune on it from the predator. With the 75, zex says no timing needs to be changed, but that is with the stock tune. what do i need to do on the 93 tune for this to be working properly

[SublimeTime]

I need to know this as well. I am new to n2o and dont want to screw anything up. I am getting the zex 75 shot, and currently have the 93 cai tune on it from the predator. With the 75, zex says no timing needs to be changed, but that is with the stock tune. what do i need to do on the 93 tune for this to be working properly

Hey sinister,

From what I have been told, and trust me, I have harrased these guys on here enough with ?'s, two degrees timing retard on 100 shot ut stock timing for 75, and one range colder on the plugs. I am keeping my 93 CAI tune. The ones that have helped me out are FlyByU,HEMI31,1FAST4DR,HEMIDON. They most likely have answers to any questions you have. I know I probably forgot some people that have helped me out and if I did, my apologies.


Gary

[sinistersix]

OK maybe this is a better way to phrase my question. Is there a difference in timing from the stock tune and the predator tune? if no, then my question is answered. If yes, what is that difference? Lets say its 2 or 4, do I then need to retard the timing 2 or 4 to have it be back to the "stock" tunes timing to work with the zex 75 shot? so confused..

[1FST4DR]

OK maybe this is a better way to phrase my question. Is there a difference in timing from the stock tune and the predator tune? if no, then my question is answered. If yes, what is that difference? Lets say its 2 or 4, do I then need to retard the timing 2 or 4 to have it be back to the "stock" tunes timing to work with the zex 75 shot? so confused..


Lets see if we can shed a little light on this,According to Zex.They
Do not recommend using any type of chips etc while using N20.The
reason being as most of us know is that they tend to ADVANCE timming
to a certain degree.So basically no you shouldnt use your Diablo
tune..However.I will share this but I do not recommend this to anyone.
I have used my 93 tune many of times with out problems on the N20.
I wouldnt worry about it to be honest.Just listin for any detenation.
If you hear some ping like noise.Shut off the N20.Or to be safe.Just uninstall
the Diablo and run the N20 straight up timming if that makes sense..
I hope this helps..

[1FST4DR]

Now remember,If you bump up to 100 shot..New rules apply.Colder plugs 2 degrees retarded on the timming.

[otter1363]

Digging up an old thread here. One of the most complete threads I have seen on the topic!!

I do have a question. I own an '05, RC, 4x4, 5.7L pick up. Running a Spartan cam (114lsa), heads and an NX system. One of the topics I have seen on the truck forums that I have NOT seen addressed here or in other LX threads are the use of shorty wires and gas. It is not uncommon the see truck owners sware NOT to run shorty wires with spray. I am not sure why it doesn't pop up in these threads. I wonder if the truck coils have a timing delay for the opposing cylinder that the LX do not have, or the 6.1 coils do not have?? I cant figure out why the trucks caution against it's use but haven't seen issues/concerns here with the 6.1 dual coil packs etc...

[FlyByU]

First time Ive heard it as well.

[otter1363]

ok, just found out the reason is different coil packs. My '05 truck 5.7 coils fire on intervals (fires under the coil at a different time than the wire crossing over to the opposed bank's plug) and the LX coil packs fire at the same time. Need to do a 6.1 set up if I dont want the wires crossing over the engine.