Hotchkis front sway issue

[Husker]

Anyone else having issues keeping the Hotchkis front sway bar connections tight? I have had to re-torque the lower sway link to the upper A-frame on the pass side twice now. I can tell when it's loose as it rattles like a bad dog...

Any ideas?? Maybe thread loc?

[dodgeboy]

I torqued mine about 15-20lbs beyond the spec. (shh!) I had that issue with the hotchkis sways on my Durango, and that was the only solution. I didn't even bother trying the stock torque on the 300C, because I figured the similar design would have similar results.

Dave

[Hemi31]

You mean the end links?I tightened mine gorilla tight and left them like that.Did it the same way when I did my springs last winter and never had a problem.

[Husker]

Yea the end links that attach via the spacer bar..I used a rathe large pry bar to torque the piss out of it today...well shall see this time :)

[NC-SXT]

Try a bit of loctite on the threads next time. That will do it. :thumbs_u:

[Super T]

Be careful overtorquing... i watched somebody snap grade 10 bolts for half an hour because they went to torque spec and then 'an extra quarter turn, just to be safe'. This guy ain't too bright, and I had to find the torque specs for him, and he still decided he knew better, so it was more fun to just watch him til he gave up. But anyway, my point is it can get dangerous. I'd advise loctite.

[dodgeboy]

Be careful overtorquing... i watched somebody snap grade 10 bolts for half an hour because they went to torque spec and then 'an extra quarter turn, just to be safe'. This guy ain't too bright, and I had to find the torque specs for him, and he still decided he knew better, so it was more fun to just watch him til he gave up. But anyway, my point is it can get dangerous. I'd advise loctite.
I agree that over-torquing is a bad idea... But just to be clear, in this situation an extra 15-20lbs was about another 1/20th of a turn (maybe 2" at the end of the 1/2" drive torque wrench). I'd imagine an extra 1/4 turn would be at least another 80-100lbs in this situation.

And I'd never consider over torquing a crucial suspension/steering fastener, or anything where I didn't have easy access to both ends of the bolt...

Dave

[Dupie24]

And I'd never consider over torquing a crucial suspention/steering fastener, or anything where I didn't have easy access to both ends of the bolt...

Dave
Been there done that? Sounds like you speak from experience. Very good advice, everyone listen to this, it will save you many a headache. Thanks dodgeboy, you may have just saved someone a broken bolt headache!:thumbs_u:

[Husker]

Ok, I am thinking the loctite might be the better idea here.. But it is just the one side....I wonder if the pass side does something more then the drivers side??!

[Super T]

You mean in terms of ?? The force on the links will be the same on either side at any given time, just acting in opposite directions (one wheel is trying to push up, the other wheel is pushing back down, etc.). Unless everything I've learned is wrong, there's no other way for them to work. If the bushings aren't located the same place on either side, as in if they're not mirrored around the car's centerline, then one side of the bar might get a little more 'wiggle' in it than the other, that could help loosen a bolt up over a few hundred cycles.

[RobAGD]

Put mine on and torqued as close to spec as I could ( there was one bolt that was just a right bastard to torque down on )

No issues to date and I drive the piss out of it.

-R