I finally did it! Installed SRT brakes and suspension

[rander]

I finally finished installing the following on my Daytona:
. Front and back SRT Brembo brakes
. Front and back SRT spindles, knuckles, hubs and rotors
. Front SRT shocks
. I did not install the rear Nivomats. The ones sent to me were for the SRT, but it seems they are the same for the RT R&T as well. Besides one of them was leaking.

I don't have the digital camera on me. Wife has it and is out til sometime next week, so no pictures at this point.

I did the work my self. I don't wish this job on anybody, especially in 100+ degree weather. I'll be soar for a few days that's for sure. http://www.chargerforums.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif

Oh, the SRT springs front and back are shorter than the ones found on the Daytona. It's amazing how she takes the corners now. I'm getting my Hotchkis swaybars sometime next week. I'm sure to feel a difference as well. HAL hasn't complained and hasn't thrown any codes.

One last thing. She runs a bit harder on the highway. I guess that's how a sports car is suppose to feel I guess, but it sure makes up on the twisties. Funny what it difference it makes. I normally took these curves close to home a bit slow because of the body roll, but now i took them easily with confidence at high speeds.

[jaak]

That's a great upgrade to an awesome looking car! I love the looks of the Daytona and drove one while waiting on service for my car. It needed the suspension upgrade, but I'm used to the SRT... I know yours would make me smile!

[rander]

Thanks for the compliment bro!

[jaak]

Damn, I keep looking at those wheels and I love them on your Daytona! Sweet!!!! You're welcome. One of the best looking (and handling) Daytona's I've seen... But I love the GoMango as well.

Don't know if you've pushed it really hard through corners, but you'll be surprised how well it handles. I thought I knew mine, then I drove one of DC's hard at Watkins Glen. Damn! Four wheel drift through corner one and totally predictable and a blast!

[fnkychkn]

I finally finished installing the following on my Daytona:
. Front and back SRT Brembo brakes
. Front and back SRT spindles, knuckles, hubs and rotors
. Front SRT shocks
. I did not install the rear Nivomats. The ones sent to me were for the SRT, but it seems they are the same for the RT R&T as well. Besides one of them was leaking.
how about the brake master cylinder and booster? pretty sure they're different.

[rander]

Ouch! Didn't see that one coming. She brakes harder than before that's for sure. As for the master cylinder and booster. I didn't think that needed to be changed. Do you forsee any issues?

how about the brake master cylinder and booster? pretty sure they're different.

[jaak]

Hmmm... From the 2006 service manual:

MASTER CYLINDER
DESCRIPTION
There are two different master cylinder designs used depending on whether the vehicle is an early build vehicle or a later build vehicle. To simplify the differentiation between early and later brake systems, for this service information they are referred to as the MK25 master cylinder and the MK25E master cylinder. This is because the master cylinders change when the availability of the antilock brake systems change. Early build vehicles use MK25 ABS and later build vehicles use MK25E ABS. Be aware that these type master cylinders are also used on vehicles that are not equipped with antilock brakes. Although similar in function and appearance, the MK25E master cylinder does not have a pressure switch located on the bottom and it has larger outlet ports with SAE flares. The primary port (1) is designed for 5/16 inch (8 mm) tubing and the secondary port (2) is designed for 1/4 inch (6.25 mm) tubing.

Both standard MK25 and MK25E master cylinders have 25.4 mm bores. Although appearing and serviced the same, the master cylinder used on SRT8 and Police vehicles has a larger 27 mm bore. The SRT8 and Police Package master cylinder can be identified by a green dot placed on the body of the master cylinder. On SRT8 vehicles with the MK25 ABS system, the brake pressure sensor (3) which normally mounts to the bottom of the master cylinder is mounted to the primary brake tube (3) near the master cylinder (1).


So what does this mean? More pedal travel for the same braking? Any other issues?

[Todd TCE]

The two parts with the 25.4mm bore will have no impact from one use to the other regardless of the fittings.

The MC with the 27mm bore (1.00" vs 1.062") will have been enlarged to better accomodate the larger displacement Brembo calipers. The reduced pressure will pair better with what is likely a slightly larger piston area caliper. The smaller bore MC when paired with the Brembo parts will elevate line pressures slightly and offer a slightly longer pedal stroke.

Assuming you have fit BOTH the front and rear SRT8 parts to the car you have no bias issues. However if you've done only the fronts, your elevated pressures (retaining the stock 1") may also effect both bias (due not to the MC but the change in hard parts at each end) but dynamic bias making more rear pressure sooner than the fronts get.

1" MC at 60lbs of leg = 360psi
1.062" MC at same 60lbs of leg = 339

Going larger to the SRT8 parts will reduce pressures about 8% and firm up the pedal a bit.

[rander]

Well that's what i feel. I bled the brakes and couldn't get the pedal as firm as it used to be. The pedal stroke is a bit more, but when they bite they bite. At first I thought i was doing something wrong with bleeding the brakes, but at least now i know. Like you said, the travel is a bit more, but not much. I don't think i need to worry about it do you? Great stuff by the way Todd and jaak.


The two parts with the 25.4mm bore will have no impact from one use to the other regardless of the fittings.

The MC with the 27mm bore (1.00" vs 1.062") will have been enlarged to better accomodate the larger displacement Brembo calipers. The reduced pressure will pair better with what is likely a slightly larger piston area caliper. The smaller bore MC when paired with the Brembo parts will elevate line pressures slightly and offer a slightly longer pedal stroke.

Assuming you have fit BOTH the front and rear SRT8 parts to the car you have no bias issues. However if you've done only the fronts, your elevated pressures (retaining the stock 1") may also effect both bias (due not to the MC but the change in hard parts at each end) but dynamic bias making more rear pressure sooner than the fronts get.

1" MC at 60lbs of leg = 360psi
1.062" MC at same 60lbs of leg = 339

Going larger to the SRT8 parts will reduce pressures about 8% and firm up the pedal a bit.

[Todd TCE]

Three thoughts:

1. If you don't mind the feel, no it's not going to be a problem just not 'mega firm' in feel. You might mask it a bit with some SS hoses.

2. The larger bore MC if you choose to fit it is NOT going to "make them work better" it's only going to change the fluid relationship.

3. If you want to see what it does compared to all the old parts and line pressures you can use the bias calculator on my 'Tool Box' page on the TCE home page. Here you'll see the pressures and rotor tq values change with the bore size also. To get the same rotor tq you had before now takes less leg pressure due to the mc/caliper relation. That's why the comment on the bite.

[jaak]

The only thing I can think of that would be a difference, other than feel is it would slightly improve your brakes reaction time in an emergency and you would not have to push the pedal as far...