Spark Plug Replacement 2005 5.7L *

[BrilliantBlackHemi]

Plug Specs:

ABout $41 for 16 new Champion RE14MCC4 Copper Plus Plugs.

Use 13 ft-lbs or 156 in-lbs to torque plugs and 105 in-lbs to torque coil bolts.

Gap plugs at .045"


Changing spark plugs:

1. Remove Engine Cover
2. Pick a coil plug set to start with. Here is the #2 (front pass side)

http://images12.fotki.com/v254/photos/4/42935/3131011/IMG_6897-vi.jpg


3: Remove the electrical connector by pushing the red locking mechanism to the left to unlock and then pressing the center catch clip while pulling up.

http://images16.fotki.com/v276/photos/4/42935/3131011/IMG_6899-vi.jpg

4. Remove the boot for the secondary plug wire:

http://images15.fotki.com/v260/photos/4/42935/3131011/IMG_6900-vi.jpg

5. Loosen the two 10mm bolts with a 10mm socket wrench.

http://images16.fotki.com/v275/photos/4/42935/3131011/IMG_6901-vi.jpg

6. Remove coil pack by pulling upwards. Make several lighter tugs to break the boot suction rather than one big pull so as to not separate the coil from the boot (breaking the unit).

http://images15.fotki.com/v263/photos/4/42935/3131011/IMG_6902-vi.jpg

7. Remove secondary plug boot. Now both spark plug holes should be exposed.

http://images16.fotki.com/v273/photos/4/42935/3131011/IMG_6903-vi.jpg

8. Use small standard (5/8" I think) spark plug socket (with rubber boot inside) and wrench to remove plug. Remove one or both at a time, it doesn't matter.

http://images15.fotki.com/v260/photos/4/42935/3131011/IMG_6904-vi.jpg

9. Inspect your plug for oil fouling, black soot and other damage. This is a good plug.

http://images15.fotki.com/v263/photos/4/42935/3131011/IMG_6905-vi.jpg

10. Gap new plug at .045" and apply liberal amounts of High Temperature Anti-seize lubricant (e.g. Napa Copper Anti-Seize). Don't skip this part. Anti-seize is needed when two disimilar metal threads are in contact (spark plug = steel, head = aluminum).

11. Install both plugs and torque to 13 ft-lbs or 156 in-lbs.

12. Install secondary coil boot and press the top to ensure a good connection.

13. Install coil and hand thread the two 10mm bolts

14. Tighten the 10mm bolts to 105 in-lbs.

15. Connect the secondary plug boot.

16. Connect the electrical connector and lock it pushing the red lock tab to the right.

17. Repeat process 7 more times.

Here's some photos of the plugs I replaced.

Old vs New (25K miles, some electrode wear as expected)

http://images14.fotki.com/v256/photos/4/42935/3131011/IMG_6910-vi.jpg

See all photos here:

http://public.fotki.com/99300mricva/2005_300c/25k_spark_plug_repl/

Took about 1.5 hours to do the job, taking my time. Plugs were in tight and squeaked when being removed at first.

[SeadooSandi]

Thanks for this great write-up! I'm thinking I can do this myself now instead of paying the dealer an arm and a leg.

[FloridaRT]

Did you use Champion Plugs? What part number?

Thanks,

Bob

[krwkenny]

The part number is on a decal near the radiator. They are not Platinum and Dodge does not recommend Platinum on MDS engines. Mine are Champions. I just don't have the part number with me right now.

[BrilliantBlackHemi]

Sorry, forgot the details on what to buy. I edited the first post to show the plug specs.

[MrHemi2U]

Quote from dealer to change plugs..$265, Joining forum $0, cost of plugs $60 (from dealer) savings $205. Took a little over an hour because I was being careful. this is a no brainer more money for mods.:thumbs_u:

[NC-SXT]

Step 18. Take youself out for a steak, reward for a JOB WELL DONE.

Great write up. The plugs dont look that bad. But best to change as DC says.

[Beast]

Nice job BBH, need to check my plugs when running Superchip with my Dynotech Headers. Plan to do A/F on Dyno also. Think we will be just fine.

[Alfa Charger]

The part number is on a decal near the radiator. They are not Platinum and Dodge does not recommend Platinum on MDS engines. Mine are Champions. I just don't have the part number with me right now.

I don't know where everybody is getting this "only copper core stuff". You can install any type of plug you want as long as the heat range and dimensions are the same.

The only reason "Copper cores" are instaled on the Hemis are price. Bean counters looking to save some production cash.

Even the new Champion catalog is offering metal flavors "Copper, Platinum and Iridium" for your Hemi.

[BrilliantBlackHemi]

All I was saying was put back in what you took out since they are working good.

I've heard many stories about putting platinum plugs in engines not designed for it and having problems (Ford 5.0L V8, etc).

When you see the option in the catalog to get those I wonder if it's because they've been tested or just have the same thread and length specs, only the internal makeup being different.

Try the better plugs and if they work, great, but when some of them cost up to 6 dollars a piece it is an expense test when you have to buy 16 of them.

[Quagmire]

Hey all,
I know this is probably a bit late, but I talked to a guy a Bosch and asked about the Platinum spark plugs for the hemi. He states that Bosch tests the plugs on actual engines before releasing the plug to the consumers. So, I have already bought the plugs and hopefully will install them this weekend. I'll leave a new post to let everyone know how they work. By the way, the Bosch platinum plugs are part number 4314 for the two point (+2) plugs @ $3.99.

[krwkenny]

Quagmire, I personally would (and did) install Copper Plugs. They are what the car was designed to operate with. Dodge informed me that none of the MDS Hemi engines use Platinum plugs.

[BrilliantBlackHemi]

I generally agree as I put in the copper plugs. It will be interesting to see quagmire's experience down the road with the platinums.

[bipto]

Anybody catch DCX's rationale for not recommending the Platinums? I was just wondering if there was a particular reason why they feel the platinums are ill suited for the Hemi... :roll:

[Fred]

Once again, DCX didn't use the plat plugs because they would cost more, and with the copper you'r egetting them replaced more often. Same reason for factory filling the engine with dino oil instead of synthetic.

[Alfa Charger]

Once again, DCX didn't use the plat plugs because they would cost more, and with the copper you'r egetting them replaced more often. Same reason for factory filling the engine with dino oil instead of synthetic.

DCX uses the Copper cores to save money. It is not an engineering decision but an accounting decision. Other than design of the electrodes, like two or four electrodes on the Bosch +2 or +4 and the heat range, precious metal plugs only benefit is that they stay within gap for longer ignition cycles. The metals don't "erode" as quickly as standard plugs or copper core plugs. The "spark" is the same on any plug.

The only problem with the Bosch +2 or +4 design may be the effect of shielding the spark inside the electrodes. The standard single electrode type plugs should be OK.

[krwkenny]

Just don't try them with nitrous. They will fragment instead of just erode.

[MangoInTX]

Great post Professor of all things LX (BrilliantBlackHemi)!

I hadn't wondered into the process of changing these beast-o-plugs. This will be great reference when it’s time to change plugs.

[Rev.Hammer]

ARRGGHHH... I gots no plug wahrs!!!

[BrilliantBlackHemi]

ARRGGHHH... I gots no plug wahrs!!!

I'm jealous of that 2006 MY feature, No wahrs, you gots down dar in TN. :not_worth

[mcdeeee]

How tough are the rear #7 & #8 plugs to remove? Always hard to get my hands back there?

[krwkenny]

It's the easiest car I've ever changed plugs on. You just need a couple of short extensions and a swivel for a couple.

[BrilliantBlackHemi]

It's not too bad to do. There were a couple where I had to put in the socket, then the extention and then connect the ratchet as the assembly was too long to fit down the hole together due to obstructions. A universal joint is needed for the back plug on passenger side. The driver side was much easier to do.

[Quagmire]

I was able to change out the plugs to the Platium Bosch plugs over the weekend and it feels great. It might be my imagination, but the engine seems to pull better and idle smoother. Also, my MDS still is working, at least as i can tell from my MPG numbers. My recommendation is to dump the crappy copper plugs and get some platium plugs in there. The install was not too bad, it took maybe 2 hours taking my time. I did use the above guide to help me along (great write up BTW). If any one has any questions, let me know or post them. I will update in two weeks or so to confirm everything is running smoothly (If anyone cares anymore).

[Yea,It's a HEMI]

I was able to change out the plugs to the Platium Bosch plugs over the weekend and it feels great. It might be my imagination, but the engine seems to pull better and idle smoother. Also, my MDS still is working, at least as i can tell from my MPG numbers. My recommendation is to dump the crappy copper plugs and get some platium plugs in there. The install was not too bad, it took maybe 2 hours taking my time. I did use the above guide to help me along (great write up BTW). If any one has any questions, let me know or post them. I will update in two weeks or so to confirm everything is running smoothly (If anyone cares anymore).

I used NGK platnum in mine, and i am having no problems whatsoever, actually I gained 1.5mpg, smoother idle, and better engine response. And they were $2.99 a piece from NAPA, not much more than the originals at $1.69. I never had much luck with Champion plugs in anything not even lawnmowers....lol

[jarrod]

Plug Specs:

ABout $41 for 16 new Champion RE14MCC4 Copper Plus Plugs.

Use 13 ft-lbs or 156 in-lbs to torque plugs and 105 in-lbs to torque coil bolts.

Gap plugs at .045"


Changing spark plugs:


Took about 1.5 hours to do the job, taking my time. Plugs were in tight and squeaked when being removed at first.

Good write up.. can you come do mine? Going to hate to let someone "learn" on my car....

[smokey0810]

Yeah, I never had good luck with Champions either, except on my 1980 Jimmy. Had a 350, and Champion made a specific truck plug back then (10 yrs ago, might still)
I'm going with Splitfires baby!!! HAHA...
Seriously, I would consider the Bosch or NGK Platinums. Anyone use the Delco Platinums in their car? They worked pretty darn well in the LT-1 in the Impala/Caprices of the late 90's. (None in mine yet)
Would like to see how the platinums do overall.

[kudasai]

for those looking for the stock plugs....

the dealer wanted 3.89 a peice for them....

rockauto.com, i got all 16 shipped for 29 dollars, and they arrived in two days.

[zonian]

for those looking for the stock plugs....

the dealer wanted 3.89 a peice for them....

rockauto.com, i got all 16 shipped for 29 dollars, and they arrived in two days.

Same here from Rock Auto:


CHAMPION570 16 @ $ 1.35 =$21.60
Shipping= $ 7.23
Order Total $ 28.83

Did it this afternoon...took about 2 hours....

[BrilliantBlackHemi]

Great price. I paid $2.48 each at Advance Auto Parts. They obviously were not on sale that day. :(

[Quagmire]

A quick follow up. The Bosch Platium plugs are running great. Still a smoother idle, and slightly better fuel mileage. 110% completely satisfied and unlike those who are determined to keep the copper champions in there engines, i do not have to change these for 100k miles.

[quarky42]

rockauto.com is an awesome place! I got a $250 oil pan for another car I had for $87 including shipping. It was amazing.

I'll definately get my replacement spark pluggies from them.

What formfactor of platinum plug provides the "best" spark. (Most power and Most fuel economy) ? I see all these different kinds: Split Fire, Quad Fire, and such.

I'm curious which one really is "best". There shouldn't be any issue with running platinum plugs and the 91 octane tune from the Superchips Flashpaq? I can't see how timing advance and a platinum plug could really cause much of a problem... or am I missing something here?

[FloridaRT]

With our aluminum heads, it is not a good thing to leave any kind of spark plug in for 100,000 miles. Even with the anti-seize paste, you did use that right?

For the money, best to stick with the stock spark plugs and change then every 30,000 miles.

Just my opinion.

Bob

[quarky42]

I don't mind using platinum as long as it doesn't harm the engine. I don't mind changing platinum plugs every 30k or 50k miles either even if it isn't necessary. Especially if there is a little fuel economy to be had. at 20k+ miles a year I don't mind investing a little in quality gas, quality plugs, quality oil, and such. Especially since I can do all that easy stuff myself. (I can't trust our local Jiffy lube to do it right, so who could I trust?)

I had plugs in my honda (aluminum block) for 60k miles and there was no problem. (using the anti sieze paste stuff)

[Quagmire]

Yes of course, anti-seize on the threads and di-electric grease on the wire to plug contact.

[da BoMM]

OK folks -- I'm past 30K and have not changed my plugs. No performance issues: she runs like a scalded dog.

1) Any updates on the platinum plugs?
2) Is there really evidence that a plug upgrade (copp to plat) will improve mileage and performance? My gut tells me this is a placebo.
3) What if I don't change the plugs until 40-50K?

[BrilliantBlackHemi]

Platinum upgrade is only there for long term durability of the electrodes. It's not expensive to replace with the regular plugs and do it yourself. Doing it at 30K is what the service manual says to do. The plugs look very good at this mileage, so it's your choice to go ahead and go a little further. Maybe you should pull one and do an inspection.

[da BoMM]

Platinum upgrade is only there for long term durability of the electrodes. It's not expensive to replace with the regular plugs and do it yourself. Doing it at 30K is what the service manual says to do. The plugs look very good at this mileage, so it's your choice to go ahead and go a little further. Maybe you should pull one and do an inspection.

Thanks BBH -- good advice -- I need to get off my lazy arse and check a couple plugs.

[Carfinish]

I like this thread...Ihave changed plugs before on all my cars and kinda never paid attention to the torque numbers for plugs...just kind of snugged them up. On the Magnum though I am kind of concerned.

DID anyone actually use a torque wrench for the plugs??

How about some anti-sieze in the 10mm bolts for the coil packs???


Stell

[Bubba's Dragon]

Anyone have the part number for the bosch plug?

[flhthemi]

Anyone have the part number for the bosch plug?

Read up on the Bosch plug as it's threads are nickle plated to eliminate the use of anti sieze compounds. I'm ready to change mine and I'm going to use Bosch but I still need a verified number too.

[BrilliantBlackHemi]

I like this thread...Ihave changed plugs before on all my cars and kinda never paid attention to the torque numbers for plugs...just kind of snugged them up. On the Magnum though I am kind of concerned.

DID anyone actually use a torque wrench for the plugs??

How about some anti-sieze in the 10mm bolts for the coil packs???


Stell

Yes, torque the plugs. Yes Anti-seize on everything. Can't hurt.

[crhemi]

140125? Is this the # for the Bosch Platinum II's or is it 4314?

[flhthemi]

140125 is a borla exhaust number.

[quarky42]

I confirmed this with Bosch's website (http://www.boschautoparts.com/RB.NA.AFTERMARKET.BOSCHAUTOPARTS.CMS/templates/VehiclePartFinder/VehiclePartFinderResultsTemplate.aspx?NRMODE=Publi shed&NRNODEGUID=%7bB045EDBE-2735-4740-B308-1FE402C47E2A%7d&NRORIGINALURL=%2fVehiclePartFinder%2fVehiclePartFi nderResults%2ehtm%3fYear%3d2005%26Make%3dCHRYSLER% 26Model%3d300_C%26Engine%3dV8%25205%2e7%2520%28345 %29%2520GAS&NRCACHEHINT=NoModifyGuest&Engine=V8%205.7%20%28345%29%20GAS&Model=300_C&Year=2005&Make=CHRYSLER) and another auto parts place.

5.7L Engine:
Bosch 4482 is the +4 (4 terminal variety) (Pregapped) [Not being manufactured at this time. Guess they need to make more.]
Bosch 4314 is the +2 (2 terminal variety) (Pregapped)
NGK 5306 V-Power (0.044 Gap)

3.5L Engine:
Bosch 4428 PLATINUM+4 (Pregapped)
Bosch 4308 PLATINUM 2 (Pregapped)
Bosch 7561 SUPER High Output; GAP=0.050"; Original equipment is platinum or other precious metal.
Bosch 4203 PLATINUM High Output; GAP=0.050"

2.7L Engine:
Bosch 4481 Platinum+4 (Pregapped)
Bosch 4313 Platinum2 (Pregapped)

Don't ask me which is better. They want you to believe the +4 is better. I will probably get the +4s when I change mine in a few thousand miles. RockAuto.com was the best price I found on them.... anyone find a better price?

5% off RockAuto Discount Code: 468665431179 Started on 08/01/2006. Good for approx 2 months after this date. Discount Code: 489046320584 is good until October 31st, 2006.

[BillyDsl]

Sounds like good info,
Thanks guys

BillyD.. :thumbs_u:

[quarky42]

I tried to order the 4482 from RockAuto and they could not special order them from the manufacturer. Bosch told them that they were out of production right now. (Doesn't mean they won't make more but that they don't have any left to sell. I'll try getting ahold of Bosch to find out WTF is going on.) *grin* Maybe I'll just have to bite the bullet and go with some Iridiums.

[Carfinish]

What about the gapping on the Bosch 2...they have them pregapped at .44 and the 5.7 says to gap @.45

Any one that used the B2's change the gap or is this negligable??

[quarky42]

Platinums are a bit different and you don't change the gap on most of them. Most of the better sites that sell them will say that they are pre-gapped meaning you should not try and mess with the gap. Some are even better written and say something to the affect of do not adjust the gap in plain english.

I just ordered the Bosch 2's and will be putting them in next time I change my oil.

[MikeEast]

I used the 4314 Bosch Plat-2's, lubed and greased everything and used my torque wrench at 15 lbs like the package said.

I just drove it 1071 miles in 16 hours and 43 minutes and averaged 24.5 mpg. Did the Plat-2's help? Does it run any better? Really hard to quantify, it runs so darn good with the v1.00 SC perf/91 tune in it that I really can't say.

The stock plugs that came out showed minimal wear, with some deposits on a few of them. I won't leave the new plugs in for 100K miles, just like I don't leave Mobil-1 in forever either.

Mike

[quarky42]

I'd be glad to get 60k out of platinum spark plugs. 90k / 100k is pushing it.

I've never used dielectric grease before. (Anti-sieze every single time). I'm going to use it. I've seen 3 different ways to use dielectric grease:

1. Spread a thin layer of dielectric grease on the white ceramic section of the spark plug.
2. Instead, Place a little dielectric grease on the inside of the plug wire boot.
3. Perform #1 and #2 placing dielectric grease in both locations.

#1 makes the most sense to me. I would think that you would not want to risk getting any grease on the boot end of the spark plug itself. By placing it on the ceramic before putting the spark plug in, you are avoiding any likely way of getting grease in something that you shouldn't.

What do you spark plug gurus think / do each time? Inside the boot, on the ceramic of the spark plug itself, or both?

Also, "How much" antisieze compound should you have on the threads? When I do it I spread a little dap around the threads careful to not get any anywhere else and I use a piece of papertowel to wipe off the excess. This leaves some antisieze compound in the threads. I'm not sure if this is too much or not enough anti-sieze compound.

[bradkaye]

It's the easiest car I've ever changed plugs on. You just need a couple of short extensions and a swivel for a couple.
I agree. I was able to change out 16 plugs in less than 3 hours, including 3 phone conversations. A short extension and universal swivel got to all of them.
Once again, DCX didn't use the plat plugs because they would cost more, and with the copper you'r egetting them replaced more often. Same reason for factory filling the engine with dino oil instead of synthetic. My brother-in-law (SAAB mechanic) let me know that new GM cars, including SAABs are only being shipped to dealerships with 1/2 fill of oil. It's up to the dealership to top it off before putting them out on the parking lot. Check your oil on your brand-new car!

[magnumdude]

thanks for the info..I'm about due

[Tincup]

Excellent post, thanks for taking the time to document the procedure...

[Mr.PEZO]

Any updates or new news on any of the topics or ??'s in this thread???

[Magne300Csium]

I agree great write up. I'd like to know anyone's experience with the platinum plugs. I like to think it's positive, since there have not been any negatives posted.

[Mr.PEZO]

:bump:

[GEN XER]

Great info to have in about 37K miles.

[themightye]

A special thanks to BrillantBlackHemi. I initially thought I could not change my plugs but I went out and added to my tool collection(torque wrench, spark plug removal kit) and 3 hours later, 1 new set of plugs in the car. Only thing noticed so far is a bit more push when I accelerate. Only reason it took so long was I had to pick one of the coldest days to change them and I kept receiving calls from friends who thought I could not do it. As a bonus the torque wrench will help me with a few mods for my motorcycle this summer. Excellent write-up as always.

[BrilliantBlackHemi]

Thanks. I aim to please! :)

[MattRobertson]

My NGK Iridium plugs arrived today and I'll be following this guide. Never done coilover plugs before. Thanks BBH!

Something I always used to do... After each plug (or pair of them in this case) I close the hood and start the car; making sure the plug I just replaced is doing its job properly. Goes back to the day when I did my first plug job and it turned out I had screwed something up and it took awhile to figure out which plug was the culprit.

On these cars its a little more complicated, with two plugs in the mix and the coil pack and all, but same idea.

[BrilliantBlackHemi]

You are welcome. Nothin' different due to the coils except extra steps to unplug/unbolt and replace. The main thing to practice properly is removal and replacement of the STEEL plug in the ALUMINUM head. USE FOR ANTI-SIEZE! :)

[MattRobertson]

oh crap I would have coasted right over that without your mentioning it. I know how alloy vs. steel = bad but I had plumb forgotten to do 2+2 here. Off to Kragen I go after work today.

[GEN XER]

You are welcome. Nothin' different due to the coils except extra steps to unplug/unbolt and replace. The main thing to practice properly is removal and replacement of the STEEL plug in the ALUMINUM head. USE FOR ANTI-SIEZE! :)

How have the NGK's worked out? I love this plug and I use it in everything I drive except the SRT. Not time for change at slightly below 6K miles.

[MattRobertson]

How have the NGK's worked out?
Mine are working splendidly.


Hey gang here's something I found invaluable when doing this procedure. Something I keep on hand is a flexible drill shank. I have one for 1/4" drill bits and another for 3/8"... its kinda tough to find a 3/8" unit that will work for 3/8" sockets but I have one. I am NOT talking about what you most often see with respect to a flexible extension for a drill. These do not rotate on the outside surface and you can hold onto the thing while you work:

Eazypower Flex a Bits (http://www.eazypower.com/wrk/items.asp?SubCategoryID=217)


Its a Cadillac unit and still only about $11 at this site (http://www.shop.com/op/%7E73613_FLEX_A_BIT_3_8_IN_DR_4268447-prod-9128378-13861733?sourceid=3). Worth its weight in gold both for this job and countless others. It won't help you with the initial oomph you need, nor will it be used on the final torqueing. Here's what I do:

1. Take a drill and set its torque to the lowest possible setting, so you can easily grab the chuck and stop it from rotating. If you have a gear setting set it to the slow one. No need for hi rpm's here.

2. Put the flexible extension into the chuck and tighten. Put the spark plug socket on the end.

3. For removal, fit the socket onto the plug and rotate SLOWLY until the socket is free. You have just saved yourself a ton of time and your back a fair bit of arching and aching. Multiply this benefit by 16.

4. For insertion, stick the plug into the socket so the rubber holds it. Bend as needed to get it in there. Seat it and *gently* start the revs until it catches. The anti-seize on the threads will help this all go smoothly. Roll it in at maybe 45-60 rpms. When it hits bottom the reduced torque setting will keep things from getting out of hand (make sure you know your drill's limits on this score before you jam something up).

Do the above and save yourself a TON of time.

[Big D]

Matco tools:

http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/toolcatalog.jsp?cattype=T&cat=2442&page=2糖

http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/toolcatalog.jsp?cattype=T&cat=3613&page=1磀


SnapOn tools:

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools.asp?tool=all&Group_ID=132&store=snapon-store

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools.asp?tool=all&Group_ID=132&store=snapon-store

[BJsHemi]

I just bought new plugs and a torque wrench. The torque wrench only goes down to 25. How do I set this thing to torque the plugs to 13 and the coil bolts to 105.

[oldschool]

A quick follow up. The Bosch Platium plugs are running great. Still a smoother idle, and slightly better fuel mileage. 110% completely satisfied and unlike those who are determined to keep the copper champions in there engines, i do not have to change these for 100k miles.

But again, the major point is that they are sitting in your car for an extended amount of time and may seize up or be difficult to remove despite antiseize. They may not deteriorate as fast but it is kind of like the 5yr/100,000 miles interval of the coolant, you really don't want to leave it in there that long as it is.

I wish you the best of luck, keep us up on your 120k tuneup!

oldschool

[oldschool]

I confirmed this with Bosch's website (http://www.boschautoparts.com/RB.NA.AFTERMARKET.BOSCHAUTOPARTS.CMS/templates/VehiclePartFinder/VehiclePartFinderResultsTemplate.aspx?NRMODE=Publi shed&NRNODEGUID=%7bB045EDBE-2735-4740-B308-1FE402C47E2A%7d&NRORIGINALURL=%2fVehiclePartFinder%2fVehiclePartFi nderResults%2ehtm%3fYear%3d2005%26Make%3dCHRYSLER% 26Model%3d300_C%26Engine%3dV8%25205%2e7%2520%28345 %29%2520GAS&NRCACHEHINT=NoModifyGuest&Engine=V8%205.7%20%28345%29%20GAS&Model=300_C&Year=2005&Make=CHRYSLER) and another auto parts place.

5.7L Engine:
Bosch 4482 is the +4 (4 terminal variety) (Pregapped) [Not being manufactured at this time. Guess they need to make more.]
Bosch 4314 is the +2 (2 terminal variety) (Pregapped)
NGK 5306 V-Power (0.044 Gap)

3.5L Engine:
Bosch 4428 PLATINUM+4 (Pregapped)
Bosch 4308 PLATINUM 2 (Pregapped)
Bosch 7561 SUPER High Output; GAP=0.050"; Original equipment is platinum or other precious metal.
Bosch 4203 PLATINUM High Output; GAP=0.050"

2.7L Engine:
Bosch 4481 Platinum+4 (Pregapped)
Bosch 4313 Platinum2 (Pregapped)

Don't ask me which is better. They want you to believe the +4 is better. I will probably get the +4s when I change mine in a few thousand miles. RockAuto.com was the best price I found on them.... anyone find a better price?

5% off RockAuto Discount Code: 468665431179 Started on 08/01/2006. Good for approx 2 months after this date. Discount Code: 489046320584 is good until October 31st, 2006.

I have to be honest...stay away from splitfire/Bosch +2, +4, +1,000 whatever. I had a GrandPrix and the plugs over a short time generated fro whatever reason, alot of heat and turned my oxygen sensor to crap and my plug boot to a blue cheese looking kind of material. Single electrodes are much better and more reliable. My 2cents.

oldschool

[Carfinish]

I just bought new plugs and a torque wrench. The torque wrench only goes down to 25. How do I set this thing to torque the plugs to 13 and the coil bolts to 105.

you'll need a wrench that goes below 25 FT/lbs...that one will not do.......a good snugging on the coil bolts should work fine..not too crazy

[carchitect]

you'll need a wrench that goes below 25 FT/lbs...that one will not do.......a good snugging on the coil bolts should work fine..not too crazy

I'm pretty sure the 105 for the coil bolts is in in/lbs not ft/lbs. To convert in/lbs into ft/lbs divide by twelve.

[MattRobertson]

what he said. You try and torque down in ft. lbs and you are going to be realllllly sorry.

[blackcell]

@BrilliantBlackHemi, I've spent the last 3 days searching the Net for a how-to. Found several but yours by far is The Best!! Feel confident now that I can do this myself. Mucho thanks!!

[Carfinish]

I'm pretty sure the 105 for the coil bolts is in in/lbs not ft/lbs. To convert in/lbs into ft/lbs divide by twelve.

what he said. You try and torque down in ft. lbs and you are going to be realllllly sorry.

from the first post
__________________
Use 13 ft-lbs or 156 in-lbs to torque plugs and 105 in-lbs to torque coil bolts.

Gap plugs at .045"

__________________

[oldschool]

OK OK I have an update on my plug install today.

My install was a bit different. I don't have plug wires which I think is a 6.1 kind of setup and my coil pack plug was a squeeze release type that pops off rather easy.

A few easy tugs and the packs do come out with no problem. I thought of putting dialectic sploog on them to see if at my next 60k plug swap if it is any easier to pull.

The pass side rear bank was a bit tricky. During the whole process I had a swarm of different extensions/flex bits to work with and I am glad. My magnetic 13/16ths socket was perfect and made things much easier. I actually went around that tiny black canister like thing near the firewall/PCM and had a better shot getting to the pack. Removing it was tricky because there are so many wires. Other then the first pack I did near the oil stick everything went easy and smooth. I checked my gaps and used dialectic on all repacks.

The only thing I didn't do was torque them accordingly. Don't get me wrong, I knew I needed a wrench but I lost a reducer bit that would allow me to use the torque wrench from my tire lugs on a smaller application. I was very careful with the torque on the packs and they are defintely snug and properly tightened. You can only go so far without bottoming out againt the valve covers anyway so i was not worried. The plugs were also def. not overtightened and I am confident in this situation I did alright. I double checked every tightening and basically put it back the way I found it.

Now the weird stuff.

DC definitely did not put any kind of antiseize as each plug had a little pop on the unscrew. The car had them in for 25 months/29k miles and they were a bit stiff.

Also the plugs were all gapped differently. One was around.020 which made me crap my pants and some were as high as .048. Maybe 8 were about .046. I didn't drop any and the threads and electrodes all had the typical deterioration (minor) and discoloration/carbon spots. All together it took me 1:45 which was shocking since the 2 harder coil packs on the pass side probably took as long as the other 6 packs. Once I got in a groove things really flew by. My lower back is pissed from bending for 16 plugs and my wrist well...usually gets a workout like this in other situations hehehe jk...sorry for the grossness.

I kinda had fun and it was so much easier then the 6 plug V6 Grnadprix I had with FWD. My fingers/knuckles got creamed over the heat shields from the exh. manifold and the tight clearnace near the old o2 sensor. This was time consuming but a breeze.

Don't forget to blow off all dirt with an airgun, get lots of dialectic on the boots and antiseize on the threads, make sure you have EVERY TOOL and bit you need beforehand and double check those gaps!

On a side note I opted for the Champion SIngle Plat. 3570 plugs x 16 gapped at .045. 2.52 a pop and 50 shipped was a good buy. I saved almost $750 doing it myself (from the 5.5 hour labor rate my local DC was quotoing me.) and it took me a third of the time DC thought it would take. Someone correct me about car with the pics Brilliant Black Hemi posted. He has a 6.1 (duh) but he posted for the 5.7. Was this on your own car BBH? Again, mine had no red clip (except for my injectors), was a squeeze removal, and I have no plug wires. Maybe my setup is because of MDS which 6.1's don't have. Whatever, it got done and the car actually idles a tiny bit better. Butt dyno is happy too!

oldschool

[BrilliantBlackHemi]

Differences between 2005 and 2006 I guess.

[lil_hemi]

hey guys my 05 has 27k i was at the dealer this week for a tsp on the a/c i will post the number later,, but i ask him ( a good friend ) about the plugs and he said about 36 or so unless i have a problem ,, i just got back froma long trip ( 1700 ) and used 91 tune ( superchips) and 91 oct gas and got 25 mpg with a/c so that pretty good , but i don't do many miles either

[oldschool]

That is one hell of a sentence!

oldschool

[JNAMREFIEL]

Whats The Eaiest Way To Do This? Have It Done Or Diy. I Work At A Vw/audi Dealership, Was Thinking Of Having One Of The Techs Do It? Whats Everyones Thoughts About That?

[flhthemi]

It's not that hard. Do it yourself and know it's done right.

[JNAMREFIEL]

There Is A Few Guys Here I Know Will Do It Right And I Trust

[flhthemi]

I think most important is they:

1. Don't over tighten them
2. Make sure they use an anti sieze compound on the threads
3. They use dielectric grease under the cap
4. They check the gap is correct on each plug

[MangoInTX]

Oops... didn't read whole thead, comment not needed. My bad

[Peter300C]

Just wanted to say a big thanks to BBH (and others) for posting the how-to on changing the spark plugs. I have a 2005 300C with 30K. The dealer quoted me $285 to change the plugs. Thanks to BBH I did it myself today...piece of cake, and of course, much much cheaper.

I used the stock champion plugs (1.39ea), bought some anti-sieze and the dielectric grease. I also had to buy couple accessories for my socket set (universal joint, extension, adapter...etc.) All told, I spent about $80, but now I have those tools, etc. for next time.

Anyway, this is a great forum, and thanks again. I have the satisfaction of saving the dough, and of course of doing it myself which is what I like.

Peter

[Jeepers]

Just changed the plugs at 40,000 miles; it was one of the easier plug changes I've done. All the plugs were a nice colour, near perfect shape still. The rear passenger plug though, from the head on up, around the hex up thru the ceramic looked as if either water was trapped in their for an extended period of time or the cylinder was leaking. Kind of weird and rusty looking. Any one else notice anything like this? I'd show a pic, but it's in the landfill by now.

[blacksleeper]

I totally agree with Fred. I work in an auto plant in Cambridge, Ontario and I know for a fact that auto manufacturers try to save every penny. (even when building a Lexus!!!) Copper plugs are the cheapest with the shortest life span. DCX used better plugs on the SRT8 because profit margins are far greater on those vehicles, and buyers of SRT8s demand a better product. (in my opinion, at least)

My Magnum is due for a spark plug change soon and I plan on using double Iridum plugs. Yeah they're very expensive, but they are good for well over 100,000 miles, and the gap doesn't expand over time because iridium is even harder than platinum, so the electrodes do not wear out as they do with copper plugs. The fine center electrode (0.6mm) requires less energy to produce spark. Therefore, if we use an Iridium plug with the existing coils, theoretically the spark produced should be stronger (brighter?) because the coils were designed to work with copper plugs that create more resistance.

Any thoughts?
blacksleeper

[done]

I totally agree with Fred. I work in an auto plant in Cambridge, Ontario and I know for a fact that auto manufacturers try to save every penny. (even when building a Lexus!!!) Copper plugs are the cheapest with the shortest life span. DCX used better plugs on the SRT8 because profit margins are far greater on those vehicles, and buyers of SRT8s demand a better product. (in my opinion, at least)

.......


The fine center electrode (0.6mm) requires less energy to produce spark. Therefore, if we use an Iridium plug with the existing coils, theoretically the spark produced should be stronger (brighter?) because the coils were designed to work with copper plugs that create more resistance.

Any thoughts?
blacksleeper

Yup,

The plugs used in the SRT8's are also used in the mini-vans so money saving logic does not work.

The only factor related to the energy required to produce a spark is the gap.

[NautcaSprt6]

Excellent write up.
But whats all this talk about gaps? What size gap should I get?
I will be doing this over the weekend with help from BigDave.

Thanks again
Bert

[woodeman]

I did my 30k check this weekend. I pulled 2 plugs from each side and checked gap and condition. The gap was just a whisper over .045" and the plugs looked good. I re-installed them and am confident they are good for another 30k, but will check them again at 45k. The car runs like a champ, by the way.

[08blkrt]

On my Ram I just traded in on my Charger, I had the original plugs at 59,500 miles plus and they still looked great, and my milage was at the highest it had ever been. I checked them at 30K, and they were pretty much as perfect as they could have been, and again at 45K, and they looked ok, so I put anti seize on them, and put them back in.

The plug wires were a different story, they started showing signs of crossfiring almost right away, and a couple were replaced before it hit 12K. I got zapped several times just brushing against a couple of them. They looked like there were pencil marks all over them. I was about to order plug wires the day my knee decided to get me.

I was planning on doing a whole bunch of things to the truck, rotors and brake pads, trans fluid, plugs and wires, and the big one, tires. My left knee blew the quadriceps tendon, and that made getting into the Ram a problem, so off it went after I had surgery. I got reamed on the trade, but the payments on the charger ended up a little less than the Ram's were. I was 2 payments from having it paid off too.

[mikesmagrt]

Great Write Up ! I Got My 05 Mg Rt Hemi And The Wifes 04 Ram1500 Hemi To Do This Weekend .

Thanks

[mikesmagrt]

A Trick I Use On Recessed Plugs .

Get A Piece Of 1/4 Tubing Slip Over End Of Plug Use This To Get The Plug Started In The Head . Then Just Pull Tubing Off And Torque To Spec.

[mikesmagrt]

FYI BOSCH REBATE FOR 4314 +2 PLATS AND IRTYIUM

AUTOZONE HAS THEM FOR $3.99 EACH WITH FREE SHIPPING

http://g-ecx.images-amazon.com/images/G/01/00/00/01/18/17/55/118175530._V16382395_.pdf

[BrotherB]

This is a VERY EASY to do thing! I just spent 1 1/2 hours to do all 16 and that was with a smoke break in between sides. Anyone with any car knowledge can do this and save themselves a ton of money. Take your time and DONT forget to use anti seize on your plugs and di-electric grease on your boots. In my opinion, the reason that you have to change your plugs at 30k is, the factory dont use antiseize on the plugs. I had a few that was even starting to rust!!!! All 16 where bone dry!
Bill

[forango]

This is a VERY EASY to do thing! I just spent 1 1/2 hours to do all 16 and that was with a smoke break in between sides. Anyone with any car knowledge can do this and save themselves a ton of money. Take your time and DONT forget to use anti seize on your plugs and di-electric grease on your boots. In my opinion, the reason that you have to change your plugs at 30k is, the factory dont use antiseize on the plugs. I had a few that was even starting to rust!!!! All 16 where bone dry!
Bill


50K miles on stock plugs here :doh:...no wonder our gas mileage stinks right now. lol..gonna have to change them bad boys out ASAP.

BTW--I did not read all 7 pages of this thread, but getting back to the platinum vs copper plug thing...I know from my experience with Mustangs that the copper plugs will give you better performance..the plats might last longer, but the butt dyno suffers. lol

[mikesmagrt]

a little side note

changing the plugs on a ram1500 with the hemi is a lot more difficult .

i had to buy a special spark plug socket with built in swivel to get the back 4 drivers side plugs out ( brake power booster was in the way)

[redwagon]

Reading through this forum has given me the 'cohones' to do my own tune up instead of paying the dealer $900, but I couldn't find out where or how much dialectic grease to apply. How do you apply the grease- is it applied in the boot connector or on the ceramic of the spark plug before installing it. I put the car in the garage tonight and will change plugs in the morning once the engine is cool. Also, should I remove the Predator tune before changing plugs. Thanks.

[BrotherB]

Reading through this forum has given me the 'cohones' to do my own tune up instead of paying the dealer $900, but I couldn't find out where or how much dialectic grease to apply. How do you apply the grease- is it applied in the boot connector or on the ceramic of the spark plug before installing it. I put the car in the garage tonight and will change plugs in the morning once the engine is cool. Also, should I remove the Predator tune before changing plugs. Thanks.

The grease thing is easy to... I put mine right in the end of the boot. Try to get it as far down into the boot as possible. The grease comes in a little tube or I have also seen the huge cans that have a tube like a can of WD40. I use the little tube and just squeeze a fair amount down in the end of the boot. When you reinstall the boot it goes right where it belongs! No need to remove your tune, it will all be there when your done. And dont forget to use antisieze on the plugs!!!!
Hope this helps! :thumbs_u:
Bill

[lil_hemi]

hey guys i have 33,000 on my 05 we dont drive it much just weekend my wife and both have comp trucks ,, i was going to change mine befor we go on vac this year ,, but it still runs great ,, i wish i could run the top gas and then i could run my super chips ,,,, it gets better then

[southercomforthemi]

Just a thought.....copper has the lowest resistance and therefore is easier to fire and will produce a bigger spark that platinum or iridium.

The only difference is that they do not last as long.

Any thought on this...shoot me down...

[Zoban]

Ran the Iridium (spelling) in my PT Cruiser for two years without fail or issue. Again spec was for copper.

I admit there is a big difference between a PT and a MAG but come spring those coppers are being swapped for the Iridiums.. Much truer arch on the spark for my dollar.

Besides if we can spend 100's plus on lil cosmetic things why not spend an extra couple bucks on one of the primary three (spark, fuel, compression) without it the car just looks good in the driveway..

[goldsmi]

...and I've got a bridge in Brooklyn for sale

[lil_hemi]

how much??? i been looking for a bridge,, how many miles on it ?? lol

[HIPCHIP]

This looked scarey at first, but it was really easy. I have a flex-head wrench, so nothing extra needed, except for a short extension. Definitely not as easy as my '56 Chevy to work on (I could get in between the engine and the fender!), but a lot easier than doing my Ram 1500!
:}

[BrilliantBlackHemi]

Well long since I originally started this thread, I've torn a lot further into these motors, including replacing one or two, with help of other great members here like Hemi31. I'm glad this little overview on changing the spark plugs has helped so many. I appreciate the continued positive feedback I get from this.

[Carfinish]

Well long since I originally started this thread, I've torn a lot further into these motors, including replacing one or two, with help of other great members here like Hemi31. I'm glad this little overview on changing the spark plugs has helped so many. I appreciate the continued positive feedback I get from this.

My thanks Robert and beans(see if lets me give them)

[marshall9779]

I did mine this weekend. I only have 23,400 miles on, but I figured I would go ahead and do it. I used the NGK IX Iridium plugs. I got them here. http://www.clubplug.net/ You can also fill out a thing to send to a friend to save %5. The total for mine including shipping was $120.21. This was the best deal I found on these.

Tips: I used a 3" extension with a u joint and then a 1' extension to not have to lean under the hood so far. It wasn't as bad as I thought. Still time consuming though. I think it took me about 1hr45min taking my time.

I tested after each pair to make sure there were no problems.

When I started up when i was done, I gave it some good rev ups. I did notice a little sputter a couple times as the RPMs came down after the rev-up. Has been running fine since then.

I didn't have a torque wrench, and I know I put more than 13ft-lbs but I put plenty of anti-sieze on so I shouldn't have to worry about being able to remove them the next time.

These plugs aren't cheap, but doing it myself I felt I could spend a little more for some good plugs.:thumbs_u:

[2005maggie]

I just bought a 05 Magnum RT AWD. It had 33000 on miles and well serviced. When driving 65-70 I get at bet 19 mpg's acual fuel consumption. When driving harder the trip monitor shows I get better milage but in the end its the sam only 18mpg only doing HWY. Also I own a 68 charger and the HP was factory at 335 and now 365. I know the magnum is 1700lbs more but I feel this car is only 285 ish lbs and poor MPG. I love Maggie but she is killing me. What say you?

[Rogertc]

Coming up on my 2nd plug change (60K) and thought I'd share this with the forum.

I have the shop manual for my '05 300C ($300.00) and it mentions nothing about using anti-seize. It it quite specific about using dielectric grease on ALL the boots though! Tear a coil boot and you won't be happy!

The reasons I use the 570 (RE14MCC4) Copper Champions is that Mopar recommends them (shop manual and emissions sticker), their proprietary coating (see below) and the $1.77 price tag :thumbs_u: for only 30K miles use .

:spock:

This is from the Champion Web Site.



Copper Plushttp://dodgeram.info/Engine-Gas/SparkPlugs/photos/2-copperplus.jpgChampion Copper Plus is a spark plug line that leads the industry with innovative performance benefits. Copper Plus is available for all import and domestic vehicles and carries the best warranty of two years/unlimited mileage. One of the features that makes the Copper Plus stand out among other spark plugs is an extra hard and dense ceramic insulator. This allows flawless functioning with high energy ignition systems, while maintaining extremely accurate heat ranges. Champion uses an extruded copper core in our center electrode which allows for accurate control of heat range, optimizing the performance and longevity of the spark plug. A patented semi-conductor resistor is used to remove RFI from on-board electronics and assures maximum plug life. Our zinc plated shell uses TinTaC® and a patented process known as ULTRASEALTM which eliminates the need for use of anti-seize compound when installing spark plugs. This process provides the best corrosion protection of any spark plug in the industry.

[IES99]

I found my set up in the 2006 300C a little different:

The coil on the top of the plugs looked like this:

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e155/ies99/spark%20plugs/DSCF0006.jpg

Disconnect the wire by squeezing the plug at the top left to release it.

Take the two small screws holding the coil/boot assembly in place.

Here I have removed one:

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e155/ies99/spark%20plugs/DSCF0007.jpg

Gently pull the assembly out from the plug caverns. The assembly looks like this:

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e155/ies99/spark%20plugs/DSCF0009.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e155/ies99/spark%20plugs/DSCF0008.jpg

The cavern entrances look like this:

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e155/ies99/spark%20plugs/DSCF0010.jpg

Take the plugs out using a narrow plug socket.

Insert the new plugs after applying anti-sieze and dielectric grease.

Tighten the plugs to 13 foot pounds

Insert the boot/coil assembly

Replace and tighten the two screws holding the coil on.

Reattach the wire.

Go on to the other 14 plugs.

:beerchug:

[forango]

Sorry if I ask reposted questions, but at work I don't have much time...I do not have a TQE Wrench that goes to those low specs, is it truly mandatory? Also, the anti-seize goes directly on the plug threads? Never used anti-seize on plug changes for other cars.

[mikesmagrt]

the trq wrench is not manditory but is a good precaution , with aluminum heads alittle to much elbow grease and you have a stripped spark plug hole . the anti seize is used because of the aluminum heads , the dissimilar metals react to each other over time and get locked together ( there's a fancy term for it)

[thewagon]

Just to let everyone know, I have this set of extension's for 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 drives.

It was a GODsend, made the entire job easy. The "wobble" gives you enough offset to easily remove/install the plugs and 10mm bolts.
And they are very cheap.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=31203

Also, remove the spark plugs after 30k miles was SCARY! I did not have enough leverage with the 3/8" drive ratchet, had to use the torque wrench to loosen up the spark plugs, and even then, I thought one plug is gonna snap on me.
But all worked out fine.

BB, could you edit the first post to include the ft/lbs for the 10mm bolts. I think the in/lbs may confuse some.

Thanks for a great writeup

Andrew

[69amx]

I installed the expensive E3 three prong diamond shape plugs in my 06 rt awd. Save your money. They made no measureable improvement over stock plugs. did anyone else have similar results?

[stitchmonkey]

Just to let everyone know, I have this set of extension's for 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 drives.

It was a GODsend, made the entire job easy. The "wobble" gives you enough offset to easily remove/install the plugs and 10mm bolts.
And they are very cheap.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=31203

Also, remove the spark plugs after 30k miles was SCARY! I did not have enough leverage with the 3/8" drive ratchet, had to use the torque wrench to loosen up the spark plugs, and even then, I thought one plug is gonna snap on me.
But all worked out fine.

BB, could you edit the first post to include the ft/lbs for the 10mm bolts. I think the in/lbs may confuse some.

Thanks for a great writeup

Andrew

Harbor Freight Rocks! I got the same set up, did mine before I went to Ohio, an Champions work just fine!

[moonstreaker]

I just did the plugs in my '06 R/T the first time today...holy crap, talk about being covered in oil. The passenger side was slightly fouled, but the driver's side was horrendous. If someone had just showed me the plugs from the drivers side and said "what do you think" I would have guessed they had 50k mi on them and were run in an old Ford 289 with 250k miles on it.

[lustymagnum]

I changed my plugs and PCV valve this weekend. It took about 2 hours but I REALLY took my time. Everything seemed good. I started the motor after every cylinder.
Inoticed when I was done and test drove it, about a mile down the road I jumped on it and it sputtered. I drove it another 12 miles and it never did it again.
If there was an issue with the connection a lite would have come on or it would run rough right! I ask cause the boots came of stiff but went on easy? I was careful not to pull to hard.
I may just be a overcautious father in this case, what do ya'll think?

P.s. Great instructions! Thanks so much for saving me the money. :pepper:

[VIDEOBOB]

*gasp*
My car has 83K on it and the plugs have never been changed.
I take care of the oil with Royal Purple and stuff, but the car has never been
engine serviced by a dealer with the exception on a recall on a seal on the transmission a few years ago.
I REALLY need to do this, I have noticed my fuel isn't as good as it used to be.
I drive pretty hard and fast and in this 100+ Texas heat.
I am going to make sure to get this done soon!!!

[Spali32]

Just ordered my NGK 5306 V-power plugs for my 06 R/T. I have 37,500 miles on the original plugs. I got all my plugs ($16 of them...$2.29 each) with a 10% discount for $36.00.

[Spali32]

Picked them up at Schuck's Auto Part Store.

[08blkrt]

I used NGK platnum in mine, and i am having no problems whatsoever, actually I gained 1.5mpg, smoother idle, and better engine response. And they were $2.99 a piece from NAPA, not much more than the originals at $1.69. I never had much luck with Champion plugs in anything not even lawnmowers....lol

If I used Champions in past vehicles, I always bought a couple extra, because if I didn't, I always had to put one or two old ones back in and go back to the parts store to relplace one or two that would break due to dropping them, or one time, I dropped the rachet and sheard off the plug I had just installed. Champion insulators are the easiest to break of any plugs I have ever seen. For years, I had 360 powered vehicles and never bought anything but Champions, but about 1980, a friend and I were doing plugs on both our cars and he bought Autolite's, and we had no problems, and no broken plugs.

[VIDEOBOB]

I did this tonight.
I had to do it at night because it's been over 100+ everyday here in Texas.
Even at 2AM I was pouring sweat!!!

It took exactly 1.5 hours as predicted and I thought it would be quicker with
the use of my trusty Skill Lithium Ion powered socket wrench.
That came in handy to remove and re-install the 10mm bolts on the coil packs.
I had to go back and fourth with the extensions.

I was also smart enough to borrow my buddies Snap On torque wrench,
extensions and spark plug socket that holds the plug in place.
I also made sure to coat each new plug with high temp anti seize.

I used single platinum Champion plugs at $3 each, mostly because these were
the only ones they had in stock.

Another great tip I would life to offer is to keep a SWIFFER handy, perfect for
getting those lost bolts and sockets from under the MIDDLE of the car!!!

With the exception of the slow and tedious time consuming factor of removing the
coil packs and having to deal with twice as many plugs, it's really pretty easy!

Fired up and purred like a kitten.
I will see how it drives later today.

[LeadSSled]

Another great tip I would life to offer is to keep a SWIFFER handy, perfect for getting those lost bolts and sockets from under the MIDDLE of the car!!!
Ahhh... I see that you experienced "Murphy's 1st Law of Auto Mechanics" which states: If you drop either a part or a tool when working on a car, it will roll to the exact center of the vehicle (if it drops all the way through).

Been there, done that... a bazillion times. :mrgreen: Nice job on the DIY plug replacement. I'm planning to tear into this job myself in a couple of weeks.

[LeadSSled]

I did the plug replacement today. I must say that this was the easiest spark plug change for a V8 that I've ever worked on.

[BlackCharger06]

Best deal I found on the plugs was at sumitt racing. like 1.75 or something, it's a little less then 3dollars but every bit helps.

[LeadSSled]

I bought my plugs at Rockauto.com. The OEM Champion ones were a dollar cheaper than the local Advance Auto Parts at $1.54 each. Shipping for the plugs plus a Wix air filter ($10.32) and cabin air filter ($8.09) was $9.40.

[Danntonio]

Thanks BrilliantBlackHemi...NICE _How-To_ !!!! I am up to 50 000 km....so...time to change those plugs...

[Ferl]

I did the plug replacement today. I must say that this was the easiest spark plug change for a V8 that I've ever worked on.

Just did mine and I agree. Easiest plug change I've ever done.

[JTSBLACKEXPRESS]

I just replaced the plug and on my 300 and missed a tube situated behind the plenum. What a racket the engine made. All sorts off error messages and so forth. What is the function of this tube?

[joshn]

Hi. I am new owner of a 2006 300C. I bought the car because I have been obsessed with the body style since they came out. I was looking to put some money into the car cosmetically but I have noticed a slight rumble/low groaning noise when the car accelarates at 40-60 mph. there is a slight shake that goes along with it. I just had all the plugs replaced. any thoughts as to what may be causing it???

[fireman2118]

Nice write up

[dj sense]

Hey I really appreciate you taking the time to post this info! It was extremely helpful and you just saved me a ton of cash! Dude your better than Geico!!! Geico doesn't have pictures with descriptions. I will be trying it this weekend. I'll let ya know how it goes. Thank you, really...

DJ SENSE

[Chronic01505]

I went with Champion Platinums... It has been 30k miles since ive changed an it still feels better from when i first bought it... the second i got rid of the copper ones an got platinum I realized how smooth the idle can actually be :)

[MuscleMan305]

Dodge does not recommend Platinum on MDS engines. .


What if we have MDS disabled using the Predator, would it then be ok to us Plats?

[3 G]

Thank you BrilliantBlackHemi! This is the best directions for changing sparkplugs ANYWHERE on the web. The pictures were perfect.

I just finished changing my plugs (two hours total including finding tools and cleanup, any real mechanic would do it in an hour no problem). Here are a few ideas that I though would make your instructions even a little better (if that is possible):

1. Use a 5 inch extention for your spark plug socket. I found a 6 inch too long and the 3 inch too short. The 5 inch works perfect and eleminates any need for a universal.

2. Rather than the liquid anti-seize that can drip into the cylinder, I used the "Spark Plug Anti-Seize" caryon. This is specifically designed for spark plugs and extremely high temperature. NAPA part number 765-2405 for $2.99 and will last for many years.

3. Don't think "I'll just snug them down good and tight." A torque wrench is required with these aluminum heads. I found the ACE Pro Series adjustable torque wrench very good. I adjusts from 5 - 80 ft-lbs (many of the wrenches do not adjust below 10 ft-lbs), has a lifetime guarantee and is nearly the perfect size (this is not one of the toy torque wrenches that I found for $25 at a parts store, this is a professional tool). ACE part number 2023919 for $49.99 whcih is very reasonalbe for such a quality tool.

4. I saved all the 10 mm torque to the end. This way you do not have to keep changing your torque wrench setting from 13 ft-lbs to 8.75 ft-lbs (105 in-lbs). I simply tightened the 10 mm bolts by hand during the spark plug changes, and then went back through with the torqute wrench set to 8.75 ft-lbs and torqued the 16 (10 mm) bolts.

Hope this might help some? Anyone that change change a light bulb can change the plugs on a Magnum. No special tools, no contorsions, all right there and easy to get too. The hardest part of the job by far was getting the engine cover alligned and reinstalled.

Dealer quoated: $230

My costs:
Anti-Sieze $2.99 (Napa)
Torque Wrench $49.99 (ACE)
16 OEM plugs $29.50(Napa)

Total $82.48 and two hours time (of course the Torque Wrench will last a lifetime!)

[liltrk]

One thing nobody has mentioned...when you put ANYTHING (antiseize in this case) on a thread it changes the torque spec. If the manual is giving dry specs and you are using antiseize, there will be a difference. Obviously nobody is having problems since this thread is quite old, but just an FYI: copper based anti seize the torque should be 80 percent of the dry rating. Never-seize(R) is only 45 percent!!

[concussion]

great write up.

[hop2000]

I replaced my spark plugs about a week ago and did not use a torque wrench. What should I do? Would it make sense at this point ot try to remove them and retorque? I've only driven the car about 10 miles so far as I was out of town for most of the week. I used antiseize on them as well.

[BrilliantBlackHemi]

I replaced my spark plugs about a week ago and did not use a torque wrench. What should I do? Would it make sense at this point ot try to remove them and retorque? I've only driven the car about 10 miles so far as I was out of town for most of the week. I used antiseize on them as well.

I only said using a torque wrench was proper technique, but I've changed plugs many times on my SRT and during head swaps and never torqued the plugs, just tighten by feel. You just don't wanna do it too hard. There are a lot of threads, they aren't going anywhere, not like they'd back out. The big concerns are cross-threading, and seizure. Anti-seize and threading my hand should fix that.

[hop2000]

I only said using a torque wrench was proper technique, but I've changed plugs many times on my SRT and during head swaps and never torqued the plugs, just tighten by feel. You just don't wanna do it too hard. There are a lot of threads, they aren't going anywhere, not like they'd back out. The big concerns are cross-threading, and seizure. Anti-seize and threading my hand should fix that.

I threaded all of them by hand and then tightened using the wrench. I think that with the anti-sieze and I should be all set. The only reason I asked is that I have neven used a torque wrench in past spark plug changes (in other cars) and was wondering if there is anything that can happen to the vehicle as a result of not torquing to spec.

Thanks for the response and the write up. The car stated right up and didn't seem to have any issues. Hopefully I didn't tighten them too much (I don't think I did).

My main question is, would it make sense to now go back loosen them up, and then retorque to factory spec?

[skongolf]

Just found an add for Champion Platinum power Plugs. $1.79 each with a $1.50 rebate so .29 cents a peice. Any opinions on these?

[MYNES]

hey just changed all 16 plugs with no problems.and she fired right up and so far no more rough idle.i swapped out the oem plugs for the champion double platinum power plugs.and so far so good threw some anti seize on the plugs as well.and i used no torque wrench just did it by feel.so if you have a extra hour and a half to do this go for it.save your self the money you would spend for the mechanic.great thread thanx a mill

[jbull9000]

gotta ask: anyone heard anything about the pulstar plugs in our rigs? with dual plugs and an aluminum block is it a good idea to increase spark that much? anybody?

[smoove7410]

BUmping this back up. So, now that it has been some time, what is everyones view on platinum vs copper on the 5.7? Should I spend the money? Which one is recommended if I go platinum?

[mikesmagrt]

platniums will last longer but my stockers looked fine at 40k i put the bosch platnium 2 in so i'll check them at 80k

[Leadfootluke]

Great writeup. Completely forgot to read this the duration of my time here.

[smoove7410]

platniums will last longer but my stockers looked fine at 40k i put the bosch platnium 2 in so i'll check them at 80k

Thanks. I am mainly looking to see if they will make the idle smoother...any idea?

[themightye]

Just changed my plugs again. Took my time, took about 3 hrs. from start to finish. Cost of plugs(Canadian)--$36.01. Dealership wanted 260.00 to change plugs. Best 3 hrs. I have spent in a long time. $200+ savings going to my Mexico trip later this year. I love this site.

[hop2000]

platniums will last longer but my stockers looked fine at 40k i put the bosch platnium 2 in so i'll check them at 80k

I have to agree. My stocks did not look that bad for 40000 miles on them. I would say install the Champion coppers and spend the money else where.

[hop2000]

Thanks. I am mainly looking to see if they will make the idle smoother...any idea?

It shouldn't unless your plugs were VERY dirty. If you are having a idle issue, I believe there is a TSB out there for this.

[DA X 6]

I just went over 55,000 mile on my '06 (built May '05) R/T, and I'm about to replace the plugs for the 2nd time. The coppers are fine by me...

[racergary]

ok now I'm confused

removed my engine cover on the 2006 RT and what I take to be my coil plug set looks nothing like those in the photo's.....are the photos from an 6.1

Also I don't see any red tab and I've got a longer rectangle covers unlike the more square looking coil plug set shown in the photos

not sure what its called but one of the connectors on what I take to be the coil set was bent over from vertical about exposing some of the connector tab,I've gentle bent it back up as the others.The dealer is the only one who would have had the cover off for some minor warranty work

what am I not seeing?

Thanks:blam:

[Alfa Charger]

ok now I'm confused

removed my engine cover on the 2006 RT and what I take to be my coil plug set looks nothing like those in the photo's.....are the photos from an 6.1

Also I don't see any red tab and I've got a longer rectangle covers unlike the more square looking coil plug set shown in the photos

not sure what its called but one of the connectors on what I take to be the coil set was bent over from vertical about exposing some of the connector tab,I've gentle bent it back up as the others.The dealer is the only one who would have had the cover off for some minor warranty work

what am I not seeing?






Thanks:blam:

The write up is for a 2005 model 5.7L. Your 2006 and newer has a simple coil pack for the two plugs in each cylinder. 2005 had a plug wire going to one plug on the opposite side of the engine and the other plug was connected directly to the coil.

Just remove the coil pack on your car, remove both plugs then reinstall.

Easy peasy.

Dave

[IES99]

ok now I'm confused

removed my engine cover on the 2006 RT and what I take to be my coil plug set looks nothing like those in the photo's.....are the photos from an 6.1

Also I don't see any red tab and I've got a longer rectangle covers unlike the more square looking coil plug set shown in the photos

not sure what its called but one of the connectors on what I take to be the coil set was bent over from vertical about exposing some of the connector tab,I've gentle bent it back up as the others.The dealer is the only one who would have had the cover off for some minor warranty work

what am I not seeing?

Thanks:blam:

If you look through this entire thread (try page 8) you will find my post with pics of how to do our 2006s :rock:

[racergary]

IES..........yep,that looks like what my coil packs look like

Keep in mind I've never seen nor worked on this type of plug system before

something is still not going well,got the coil pack off,used a swivel head an extension and the plug socket slid down the tunnel just fine and push down to try and get the socket to seat on the plug which it never did feel like it......pushed down and down but still no go and then the socket was stuck down the tunnel with the extension withdrawn

after numerous tries I finally got the socket out but no plug came with it..........I've given up,for what should be easy isn't working that way

How I could be messing up such a rather simple job is beyond me

Would like to do this myself so is there any help available out here in Vegas?

[racergary]

update...........after giving up changing the plugs I tried a new plug for fit in the plug socket and boy it was tight had to almost hammer a plug in to the socket(not a good sign) and needed a puch to get the plug out of the socket and when the plug finally came out it brought part of the cushion with it.........now theres still a little bit of cushion deeper in the socket and the test plug slides on and off easily

going to try again Monday morn after a visit to the Dentist

All should be good to replace now

[IES99]

Gary,
I think your plug socket's walls must be too thick. I certainly had no such problem when I did mine. Advice: a new socket that you try first on one of the new plugs?

[racergary]

I had to try a couple different part stores before finding a decent 5/8 socket that didn't have too hard of center rubber part.

the new socket worked just fine,changed all plugs with ease.

now for the reason for changing the plugs for the first time at 40,000 was a slight miss that was most noticeable at idle

a slight miss is still there mostly at idle

what next?could it be a coil over pack? If so how would I figure which one

One cylinder had slightly darker plugs.driver side front

how easy is it to change out a coil pack and are they all the same?

thanks...........Gary

[rtdak00]

As several people hinted already....they don't work well with the MDS system. If they had worked well, the Chrysler Engineers would have used Platinums.

The 3.5 V6 & 6.1 Hemi use platinums but DO NOT have the MDS system. I've done some research on this & just replaced the plugs on my wife 06 R/T a month ago.

[Alfa Charger]

As several people hinted already....they don't work well with the MDS system. If they had worked well, the Chrysler Engineers would have used Platinums.

The 3.5 V6 & 6.1 Hemi use platinums but DO NOT have the MDS system. I've done some research on this & just replaced the plugs on my wife 06 R/T a month ago.

I just went through some research on Chryslers MDS system along GM's Variable Fuel Management system. On the Chrysler system, the patents write a great deal on how the system monitors oil airation, cylinder temperature variation and other variables to engage or disingage the system.

None of the patents mention the need for a specific composition of the Spark plug.

Dave

[69charged]

i threw a set of the ngk platinums. i am one of those that have nerver had good luck with champions in sleds or quads. i totally agree with alfa. the ONLY reason platinums are not in there is money related. if someone can come up with other reasoning, then by all means prove me, and others, wrong. does anyone have solid proof or first hand knowledge that they dont work well in mds engines??
clarence

[Mosie]

...if someone can come up with other reasoning, then by all means prove me, and others, wrong. does anyone have solid proof or first hand knowledge that they dont work well in mds engines??
clarence

I don't know of any "proof", but what a stealership service writer stated to me was that DCX's testing shows that it "can" (not that it will) effect the MDS. While that's not solid proof, it is good enough for me. I just put a new set of OEM Champion copper's in, and she's 'running stronger then ever'...
Which is pretty much what everyone who's just installed Platinum says.

However; for me, other than a CAI, SupperChips & full exhaust system, I'm pretty well stock drive trian wise. So, take that for what it's worth.


The part number is on a decal near the radiator. They are not Platinum and Dodge does not recommend Platinum on MDS engines. Mine are Champions. I just don't have the part number with me right now.

570 RE14MCC4 = Champion Copper Plus

[jbull9000]

Thanks for the write up, very useful.

So, my two cents, last week i hit 30k and changed my plugs to bosch +4 platinums. There is definately an increase in low end torque, also, a barely noticable lob i had is now gone. driving on the freeway my MDS is actually more responsive than before. (Another thing i noticed is that my MDS had starting requiring more torque to engage.)

I don't know yet about the plugs burning up or the long term effects of using them but so far i'm loving the change.

[JaxHemi]

Great writeup guys.
With a bit under 60k mi, I finally changed out my spark plugs for the first time. No issues with the job except for application of the dielectric grease. I used a q-tip to reach down the boots to the electrode connector. I agree with most, this is a 2 hour job. Oh yeah I stuck with the OE champion plugs. They served well to nearly 60k, so I figure they're perfectly matched for the motor.

[Sugart81]

Just ordered my plugs from rockauto for 1.62 each. Local parts store was charging around 6 something a plug.:blam: This is my first time changing the plugs, but I think Ill be good since Ive read this thread 100 times.