Hide wheel weights?

[Scott]

Is anyway to avoid wheel weights on the outer edge of the wheels? I don't like their appearance. Plus, they create points for corrossion to develop.

When I raced motorcycles we could tape weights on the rim ID, which was handy with frequent tire changes. But the clearance for the calipers on the RT would seem to make this unsuitable, and I don't know if it would last for a year or two of driving through bad weather in a car.

My brother's camaro has little rim offset like our wheels and he has the wheel weights on the inner side of the rim. However, if the weight imbalance was near the outer-side of the wheel and the weight was applied on the inner-side, that could create a diagonal imbalance, I'm guessing.

Options?

Thanks in advance,

Scott

[Netsrac]

Well in my experiance, it's where you go to get your wheels balanced.

When I went to a tuner shop, they used the stickie weights,

When I went to Joe's Garage, they used the clamp on weights.

Your best bet is to go to a tuner shop and specify that you want the weights on the inside.

Hope this helps

[NC-SXT]

2 ways. The balancer can be set up to balance to place weights on inner rim only or the best would be stick on weights. These weight are only 1/8 or 3/16 in thick and could be placed in the radius area away from the calipers.

[Rev.Hammer]

I think hat you will be fine with the stickons unless there is a huge imbalance

[Scott]

Is the adhesive for the sticky weights durable enough to last for a few years and for winter driving?

Thanks,

Scott

P.S. Rev. Ham, belated congratulations!

[Netsrac]

I had them on my Avenger mags for 3 years, one in winter and they never came off.

[deuceroadster2]

Scott,

IF they clean your wheels exceptionally well before they apply the weights then they should stay on for a long time. If they do a half-*&# job then they will most likely fall off before you want them to. It's all in the preparation.

[BigBadMagnum99]

I have always told the tire shop to place the weights on the inside....as I hate scuff marks on my stock rims and the terrible look of those clip on weights on the outside of the rim! I really hate that the automakers actually cheap out on this and place those damn clip weights on the outside!

The inside sticky weights they placed on my RT AWD rims (holy crap a doodle) not much space left from that weight and caliper.....pretty darn tighty!

I have had the sticky weights on my 4x4 trucks and I have yet to loose a weight travelling the highways and logging roads. Yes it is all in how the tire shop cleans your rims before placing the weights makes a big difference on how the rim balances and the weight sticking.

[Scott]

Guys,

Thanks for the input.

Scott

[NC-SXT]

remember advice is always free, Good advice is priceless

[fastlayne]

And if you get a good shop with a good machine, they can enter the number of spokes on the wheel. This way the weight can be split (if necessary) and hid behind adjacent spokes.

[Scott]

Hey, those are some pretty cool tips. A few remaining questions:

1. Does auto tire balancing have much of a inner/outer balance factor? I alluded to this earlier: if the imbalance is near the spokes (outer part of rim), can the weights be installed near or at the inner side of the wheel without comprimising the quality of the balance job? I am thinking that with occassional ice build-up in Wisconsin, I would like to place weights inboard of the calipers. I'm not looking to decrease my caliper to wheel gap. Plus, one wonders if the weight be knocked off.

2. Wisconsin roads are sometimes white with salt, so corrossion really eats alumunum rims. Is the wheel weight area on the rims clear coated which is knocked off when the factory installs the weights? Should I be coating the areas on the rim where wheel weights were removed with some protectorant? Does that need to be done after mounting? Is there protection by applying coating over a wheel weight?

Thanks again,

Scott

[F1fan]

Hey,
I had tape weights on custom wheels for various vehicles over the course of the last 15 yrs, surviving all the weather greater MN has to offer. Thtas the only way to go if you ask me.
I've never had a weight fall off. Of course....I never keep the vehicle more than 4-5 yrs either. Provide dthe tire monkeys know what they're doing (applause to tire rack) you should have no issues.

John

[deuceroadster2]

Scott:

In reference to balancing, the further apart(inside bead to outside bead) that you can place the wheel weights, the better the balance will be. When you start moving the weights towards the inside of the wheel, away from the outer edges, the more weight it takes to achieve balance. Any good shop will perform what is referred to as "match mounting", this helps reduce the amount of weight needed. Match mounting is when they take the high spot in the tire and match it with the low spot in the rim for smoother rotating assembly.

As far as the clearcoat on your rims goes, the clip on weights do breach that finish and thus starts the degredation of the clearcoat. In your case, road salt will get into the scratched area and you know what happens then.

[Scott]

As far as the clearcoat on your rims goes, the clip on weights do breach that finish and thus starts the degredation of the clearcoat. In your case, road salt will get into the scratched area and you know what happens then.

So what is a practical way to protect against corrosion where wheel weights have been or are mounted? Can the exterior and interior of the rim be touched-up with clear coat at these points? Will the tire installing machine tear-up the clear coat?

I bought a second set of factory rims for snow tires for my AWD. (EBay specials.) Should I have the worn out Conti's dismounted, remove the weights, and clear-coat the points where the weights were, before having the new tires mounted? If wheel weights are used, what is the chance of getting clear coat next to and under the weight to delay corrosion?

Thanks again,
Scott

[deuceroadster2]

Scott:

The only thing I know of would be to re-clear coat the rims and not use clip on weights. If the shop you go to uses a standard tire machine(the old style) yes, it can not only scratch the clear coat but the aluminum itself. I would request that they use a "touchless" machine. These are the new style machines and any reputable shop will have at least one.

As far as your extra set of rims is concerned, I think trying to spot in the clear coat would look worse than the scratches. I think that question could be better answered by a paint and body man which I am not. Trying to get the clear coat next to and under the weight will be a waste of time, I wouldn't do that.