Clunk is Gone

[zonian]

OK, so my car has really been bugging me for well over a year now. Felt like the front end was going to fall off every time I went over a bump...even extra scary on the highway.

In May I replaced inner & outer tie rod ends...that helped tremendously...it was such an improvement that I actually at first thought it fixed all my clunk issues. But, sadly, over time I realized I still had clunk.

I've had SRT springs & shocks since about Jul '07...since then I put 80K+ on them and figured they were shot anyway, so I ordered Pedders shocks as replacements. About a month ago I installed them...that helped the overall ride alot. Because my tension strut bushings were cracked, I also ordered the Pedders critical kit at the same time as the shocks, but did not install it.

While I had the car jacked up and the wheels off to install the shocks, I started my search to find the source of my clunk. I pounded, shook, twisted, and otherwise manhandled every piece of the suspension I could get my hands on, but I could not duplicate or hear any clunk.

So finally I decided to get CSI scientific. I used a stethoscope to isolate the sounds. While banging on the brake disc with a rubber mallet, I moved the stethoscope around listening to the various joints (without touching them) in the suspension. The only clunk I found was coming from the ball joint in the tension strut...mind you it was not overwhelming, but it could definitely be heard with the stethoscope.

So, I ordered new tension struts w/new ball joints, had the Pedder's TS bushings installed into them, and put them on the car this weekend.

That eliminated the clunk!!! I'm sure the ball joint end of the tension strut is what really fixed the clunk, but the car feels MUCH tighter, probably because of the Pedder's bushings. It also fixed high speed braking vibration. Still get a little wobble on bumps at high speed, but I think the rest of the Pedder's critical kit will fix that when I get it installed.

Hope this helps the rest of you that are suffering the dreaded clunk...

Paul

[BuckeyeRT]

That is great news! Congrats.:beerchug:

[HemiPowered5700]

How hard was it to 1 install the pedders bushings and 2 install the tension struts? PM me if you wanna...

[fireman2118]

Nice job!

[zonian]

How hard was it to 1 install the pedders bushings and 2 install the tension struts? PM me if you wanna...


I did not press the bushings in...I had them done at Medinah Automotive...they they ended up charging me $70 to do them. They wouldn't give me a price up front because they had not done them before. I thought that was pretty high, but they said it took an hour???? Maybe now that they have done it once the next time wont take so long?

The install of the TS's was pretty easy. Hardest part was separating the ball joint...1st side took about 1.5 hours....2nd side about 30 minutes.

Paul

[cleary524]

That's awesome...glad you got it fixed. My front end is clunky too and I've done the outter tie rods and end links all ready. Clunk still there and I suspect the ball joints and control arm bushings are the culprits.
Good for you! Cheers.

[karfreek]

Still get a little wobble on bumps at high speed, but I think the rest of the Pedder's critical kit will fix that when I get it installed.



Paul

The bump steer kit will fix that. I did it this weekend, and WOW. I never thought my car was that bad, I only installed it because I needed the Control Arm and Tension rod bushings, and it was much cheaper to get the critical kit.

Now, I just need to get the worn Tension rod and Control arm bushings done, but that apt is for friday.

FWIW: My car has gone thru two sets of OEM control arm and tension bushings at just 56k. Hopefully with the pedders installed this will be the last time.

Jay

[HemiPowered5700]

Thank you! I'll be doing this soon.

[progolfer82]

Good to hear! I also replaced my tension struts this weekend and got rid of 70% of my clunk. the other 30% is my outter tie rods and are shot. I will be replacing this week and I'm sure that will end the clunk for ever!!! I didnt by OEM tension struts and got mine from rockauto and were Mevotech. They had a beefy bushing and ball joint. I replaced both my tension struts in about 1 hour for both sides. I put on a lift and I suggest taking off your tires to help with remove the tension strut and will also take the weight off. I will post pictures of the job tonight hopefully if I have time.

[zonian]

The bump steer kit will fix that. I did it this weekend, and WOW. I never thought my car was that bad, I only installed it because I needed the Control Arm and Tension rod bushings, and it was much cheaper to get the critical kit.

Now, I just need to get the worn Tension rod and Control arm bushings done, but that apt is for friday.

FWIW: My car has gone thru two sets of OEM control arm and tension bushings at just 56k. Hopefully with the pedders installed this will be the last time.

Jay


Jay,

Did you order new lower control arms? If yes, what P/N's and from where?

Any tips on installing the bump-steer kit? maybe will do that this weekend.

Paul

[zonian]

Here is what I took out:

RH Tension strut:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v499/zonian/Magnum/2009_11102001.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v499/zonian/Magnum/2009_11102002.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v499/zonian/Magnum/th_2009_11102005.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v499/zonian/Magnum/?action=view&current=2009_11102005.flv)

LH Tension Strut:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v499/zonian/Magnum/2009_11102003.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v499/zonian/Magnum/2009_11102004.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v499/zonian/Magnum/th_2009_11102006.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v499/zonian/Magnum/?action=view&current=2009_11102006.flv)

The cracks in the bushings are self-evident. The looseness of the ball joint was similar to the looseness of my tie rod ends...easily wiggled with just a finger. By contrast, when installing the new tension struts, I had to use vise-grips and hefty force to pivot the ball joints so they would line up with the hole in the knuckle.

[karfreek]

Jay,

Did you order new lower control arms? If yes, what P/N's and from where?

Any tips on installing the bump-steer kit? maybe will do that this weekend.

Paul

I am reusing the ones that were installed under warranty two years ago, almost to the day.

Jay

[diboblo]

Mr. Incredible found some more information on updated OEM Tension Struts.

Check it: Tension strut info. (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showpost.php?p=2574298&postcount=1)

[zonian]

I am reusing the ones that were installed under warranty two years ago, almost to the day.

Jay
How are you gonna install the new bushings into the old control arms?

Paul

[karfreek]

How are you gonna install the new bushings into the old control arms?

Paul

80 ton press.

[progolfer82]

This tension strut is for a RT and not a LX (srt).

Mr. Incredible found some more information on updated OEM Tension Struts.

Check it: Tension strut info. (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showpost.php?p=2574298&postcount=1)

[cleary524]

Does Pedders give any love to the AWD'ers for front end replacement parts?

My front end is sloppy and clunky and I know it's the four lower control arm bushings. I can't imagine the lower ball joints are anything to write home about either.

[progolfer82]

My tension struts bushing didnt looked cracked to the eye but looked similar when you used clamp like you did. My ball joints were so bad you could move them without even touching them.

Here is what I took out:

RH Tension strut:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v499/zonian/Magnum/2009_11102001.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v499/zonian/Magnum/2009_11102002.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v499/zonian/Magnum/th_2009_11102005.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v499/zonian/Magnum/?action=view&current=2009_11102005.flv)

LH Tension Strut:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v499/zonian/Magnum/2009_11102003.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v499/zonian/Magnum/2009_11102004.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v499/zonian/Magnum/th_2009_11102006.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v499/zonian/Magnum/?action=view&current=2009_11102006.flv)

The cracks in the bushings are self-evident. The looseness of the ball joint was similar to the looseness of my tie rod ends...easily wiggled with just a finger. By contrast, when installing the new tension struts, I had to use vise-grips and hefty force to pivot the ball joints so they would line up with the hole in the knuckle.

[dpshook]

So did you do upper and lower ball joints?

Any tips for installing them myself?

[bigjim]

I am reusing the ones that were installed under warranty two years ago, almost to the day.

Jay


FYI, I did that two months ago and now have tension struts on order cause they have since gone to crap. Start with new tansion struts, they are chaeper than the bushings you are putting in. I gotta get some new pedders stuff for the new struts now.

[progolfer82]

Can someone please help me. My clunk still hasnt gone away and is makes a creaking sound like a wooden chair while turning the wheel at low speeds ( pulling in and out of parking spots) also going over speed bumps you feel the front help creak and squeak a lot. I still hear a mild clunk going over bumps in the road and its really pissing me off!!! I have replaced sway bar bushings, links with bwoodys, new tension struts and tie rod ends. The inner tie rods look fine and have little movement like they should. what the hell is wrong? what else is left that could make this sound?

FYI: when replacing the sway bar bushing I notice the bar was worn down where the bushings go and the old bushings had a lot of metal on them..does that have something to do with this sound? to much movement in the sway bar bushing? thanks for all your help. I'm bout to donate my car soon if I cant fix this problem.

[karfreek]

Can someone please help me. My clunk still hasnt gone away and is makes a creaking sound like a wooden chair while turning the wheel at low speeds ( pulling in and out of parking spots) also going over speed bumps you feel the front help creak and squeak a lot. I still hear a mild clunk going over bumps in the road and its really pissing me off!!! I have replaced sway bar bushings, links with bwoodys, new tension struts and tie rod ends. The inner tie rods look fine and have little movement like they should. what the hell is wrong? what else is left that could make this sound?

FYI: when replacing the sway bar bushing I notice the bar was worn down where the bushings go and the old bushings had a lot of metal on them..does that have something to do with this sound? to much movement in the sway bar bushing? thanks for all your help. I'm bout to donate my car soon if I cant fix this problem.

When mine did this it was the inner control arm bushing. Your description matched it to a 't'.

Jay

[liltrk]

Just today I replaced the tension struts on my 34000 mi Maggie with new factory pieces. The difference is impressive. Both were torn like the photos above. I had to remove the brake rotors and backing plates for the puller to get a good grip on the knuckle. The clunk is gone and I had a braking shudder which I think is gone as well. The ball joint end was tight on both sides.

[mnunes]

While I don't have (or at least I don't think I have) a clunk, I do get vibration in the steering wheel at highway speeds. Passenger side front wheel has some play which leads me to believe I have a bad tie rod again; visual inspection shows my tension strut bushings on both sides are cracked.

When I'm at the dealer for a tie rod replacement under extended warranty (I pay the deductible) should the dealer replace the bushings under extended warranty simply because they're cracked and I request replacement or will they need to be convinced that replacing the tie rod doesn't fix the problem? I fear I may end up making multiple trips and paying multiple deductibles. I wonder if I can request replacement with the new 2010 part that Mr.I found.

[karfreek]

While I don't have (or at least I don't think I have) a clunk, I do get vibration in the steering wheel at highway speeds. Passenger side front wheel has some play which leads me to believe I have a bad tie rod again; visual inspection shows my tension strut bushings on both sides are cracked.

When I'm at the dealer for a tie rod replacement under extended warranty (I pay the deductible) should the dealer replace the bushings under extended warranty simply because they're cracked and I request replacement or will they need to be convinced that replacing the tie rod doesn't fix the problem? I fear I may end up making multiple trips and paying multiple deductibles. I wonder if I can request replacement with the new 2010 part that Mr.I found.

The bushings are at end of life, I would push them to be replaced just because. Dont even say you feel that it is part of the problem.

Jay

[Coopers_Dad]

Just to update I was chasing a clunk did the tension struts no change and this past weekend did the sway bar bushings. Clunk gone.

For anyone with a clunk I would do the bushings first they were only $8 a piece rather than the $75ish for the tension struts.

[BuckeyeRT]

Just to update I was chasing a clunk did the tension struts no change and this past weekend did the sway bar bushings. Clunk gone.

For anyone with a clunk I would do the bushings first they were only $8 a piece rather than the $75ish for the tension struts.

That is what I did. One more TS and that should do it ...I hope :)