Suspension component tests

[OLJustice]

Well it looks like ill be doing my suspension/swaybar install solo so of course, id like to do a routine suspension check. So the purpose of this thread is to gather information for myself and everyone else who wants to know some simple old school checks of commonly failing suspension parts for our LXs. Ill start with what I know, Outter tierods.

Outter Tie Rods: Im aware of the 3 - 9 o'clock wheel wiggle test. Anything else that is a good test for this part?

Inner Tie Rods: ?

Tension Struts (balljoint):

UCA (balljoint):

LCA (balljoint):

*this should be a first* Lower Balljoint (the one attached to the knuckle):


Anyone who knows of tried and true methods of checking the above parts feel free to toss in your input. :thumbs_u:
Posted via LXFMobile

[fireman2118]

As far as I know. When my inner tie rods were starting to go, I could tell with the same 3-9 o'clock test used for the outers. When you get under there, you can see which parts are loose.

Tension struts were a pretty easy check on the front side. Simply look for cracks in the bushings like the one shown below

Hope this helps

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/hozer2118/frontsuspension40kmiles-11-1.jpg
http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/hozer2118/frontsuspension40kmiles-22.jpg

[OLJustice]

As far as I know. When my inner tie rods were starting to go, I could tell with the same 3-9 o'clock test used for the outers. When you get under there, you can see which parts are loose.

Tension struts were a pretty easy check on the front side. Simply look for cracks in the bushings like the one shown below

Hope this helps

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/hozer2118/frontsuspension40kmiles-11-1.jpg
http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/hozer2118/frontsuspension40kmiles-22.jpg

Good info on the inners. I didn't know the test was the same. With respect to the tension struts, I was looking for a test for the balljoint end.

Posted via LXFMobile

[bigjim]

Ball end of the tension strut. Simply KICK the tire at 9 oclock ( LOL Position NOT time), if you get a loud "clank" it is due for replacement. New ones are cintered metal, old ones are nylon. Once replaced they will last long enough to justify Pedderizing them prior to install.

Weight bearing ball joint. jack the car in the normal body pick point, remove the tire. Lower the car onto two 4x4 blocks under the spot where the lower end of the shock mounts. Lower the car SLOWLY onto the blocks, when most of the weight of the corner is on the block us a pry bar to lift the knuckle assy and measure the play in the ball joint, the service manual says 1.5mm (0.060") is grounds for replacement. This will make a friggin annoying racket when you hit bumps at 1.5mm.

UCA, no idea.... someone else will have to contribute.

Inners, I disassembled them and felt the tension to move them, when I unscrewed them, they dropped with their own weight, New ones are almost painful to move with bare hands, somewhere in the middle ( need to be pushed down) should be ok, these were also re-designed after first gen to be cintered metal from nylon first gens and should be a long time between replacement.

I have changed inners, outers, tension struts, and right ball joint. All this (except ball joint) before 50,000. At 180,000 I have never had to re-do any of them.

[richierevs]

For checking upper and lower ball joints, there's an "old school" test that also tests wheel bearings. With the tire mounted and the wheel off the ground grab the wheel and push and pull in rapid succession the front and back of the tire and then the top and the bottom. There should be some play, but if there's more the usual the issue can be with either the ball joints or the wheel bearings. An issue with wheel bearings will have excess movement and clunching noise that will come more from the center of the wheel and the wheel will move without the rest of the suspension moving. This is a good test to do on a regular basis.