Highest HP LX w/ Twins..?

[MagnumRT05]

I am starting to think that it just might be possible:) Things are coming together very well now that the right parts are finally here. In the process of changing the oil scavenge system out as the old one wont work. Dont have any updated pictures yet of the downpipes/etc, but this should work for now. The turbos are not the lowest point under the car now, so no more worrying about anything getting hit down there especially while utilizing the UAS system to its full capabilities.

Twin TC76s. All I need now is one of those bulletproof transmissions and a stout rear end setup to complete this whole thing...

A huge thanks go out to Steve at RDP Motorsport, Stu at Inertia, Diablosport, Forced Inductions, and Big 3 Racing:beerchug:

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/DMXanswerand1/Dodge%20Magnum/9zlkco.jpg

Updates in post #16

[pigpen]

Damn! thats dope!

[Ghostface Mag]

Looking good so far Rich...Damn those twins look good under their...Looks like a **Right click,save pic as" moment...:)

[sergeo'shemi]

the golden moment is going to be when you take it to the track and run the times you claimed a few month ago...

[FactoryD]

I'd be happy to see a report of it running 13s! ;)

JK bro.

Good luck. I can't wait to see what you can do with her!

[CT-MSRT]

looks good. some serious heat shielding between that setup would be golden. If not, those suckers are going to raise tranny temps by quite a bit.

[InferAl]

Dam Richie looks good ,glad its comming together

[roswald0511]

Looks good richie...Cant wait to see the cold side piping when it is done.

[Cam]

Am I missing something here??. All I see is the snails mounted and not even the tubing completed from the collector. Well anyhow, best of luck Richie, you have a long ways to go.

[FlyByU]

Are these going on a stock bottom end 5.7?

[dudeiwin86]

Are these going on a stock bottom end 5.7?

inertia stroker if memory serves

[MagnumRT05]

More pictures will be up soon. Its all apart now to make sure everything is spot on, but all thats left to do is wait for the oil pump now from Turbowerx. Should be here Wednesday and then it wont take long at all to reassemble everything.

And this is all going on a 5.7 based 392. Not sure on the intake manifold yet, but Im planning on staying 5.7 as of now unless the RPM wall is absolutely terrible.

[dudeiwin86]

More pictures will be up soon. Its all apart now to make sure everything is spot on, but all thats left to do is wait for the oil pump now from Turbowerx. Should be here Wednesday and then it wont take long at all to reassemble everything.

And this is all going on a 5.7 based 392. Not sure on the intake manifold yet, but Im planning on staying 5.7 as of now unless the RPM wall is absolutely terrible.

i know some will disagree,
but im starting to see that the rpm wall comes from the cam.
the longer runners on the SRT top end help for maybe 200 more rpm.... maybe..

[adamwahhab]

Looks GREAT mangum!!! can wait to see the finished picture...but take it from me, theres still a long way to go!!!!
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/adamwahhab/IMG_0807.jpg

[MagnumRT05]

Looks GREAT mangum!!! can wait to see the finished picture...but take it from me, theres still a long way to go!!!!

Thanks. I know that me and you are going through the same things. A big single was my goal at the start, but the whole spool up thing bothered me. Now whether or not it will spool up at 2000 or 3000 RPM, I am very excited to see your results. Heck, I may even be kicking myself at the end of all this for not going with the ST80 I originally had. Either way, I cant wait to see yours and I cant wait to finally be able to drive my car again. Its full speed ahead and there is no turning back now. The hardest thing is out of the way now as trying to find a place for the turbo(s) was very difficult.

The little things are pretty killer on the wallet though when it comes to clamps, flanges, etc:doh: I wouldnt recommend it to everyone, but the results at the end of the day sure take that pain away...

[MagnumRT05]

Wow, forgot to update all this. Heres some more pictures.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/DMXanswerand1/Dodge%20Magnum/2hg7puc.jpg

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/DMXanswerand1/Dodge%20Magnum/9fuzar.jpg

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/DMXanswerand1/Dodge%20Magnum/346rt4y.jpg

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/DMXanswerand1/Dodge%20Magnum/wupf9l.jpg

Dyno results to follow very soon to make sure all the fuel is spot on:)

[Ghostface Mag]

Can't wait...:thumbs_u:

[done]

Can't wait...:thumbs_u:

Well, we have been waiting for about a year and a half for something to happen on this car, is it really gonna happen this time?

[daithi2]

are you leaving the oil feed/drain at that angle? ive had problems with loosing seals when not within 15 degrees vertical

[roswald0511]

Richie, it all looks good. Glad to see this project is coming near to completion.


One suggestion, take a look at the 4th pic you just posted. I would move that t-bolt clamp (that is on the passenger side cold side piping) to the side so you dont have any clearance issues with it.


44mm wastegates? If so, good choice.

What are the complete specs of the turbos?

[1362#Sublime]

The only advice I can give, I read on a few (maybee 2) post that the 10psi + of boost is splitting the 5.7 manafold at the seams....

[MagnumRT05]

are you leaving the oil feed/drain at that angle? ive had problems with loosing seals when not within 15 degrees vertical
Yes I am. Turbowerx (who sent me the oil pump) said it was fine. Most companies allow a maximum of 30 degrees anyway. If it starts to smoke, then Ill be forced to change it but fingers crossed that it works well.
Richie, it all looks good. Glad to see this project is coming near to completion.


One suggestion, take a look at the 4th pic you just posted. I would move that t-bolt clamp (that is on the passenger side cold side piping) to the side so you dont have any clearance issues with it.


44mm wastegates? If so, good choice.

What are the complete specs of the turbos?
I believe it is (2) 38mm ones with .9 bar springs. The turbos are custom TC70s with the F1 turbo wheel. Should spool up pretty darn quickly.
The only advice I can give, I read on a few (maybee 2) post that the 10psi + of boost is splitting the 5.7 manafold at the seams....
I have read all that but there hasnt been any proof yet. If it blows, then ill probly just get one of RDPs custom ones. Or if my RPM wall is too terrible, then Ill go another route as well. The biggest issue I have is the IAT popping out (no the rubber grommets wont work). However, the SRT4 screw-in IATs are the same part number:)

[dudeiwin86]

I have read all that but there hasnt been any proof yet. If it blows, then ill probly just get one of RDPs custom ones. Or if my RPM wall is too terrible, then Ill go another route as well. The biggest issue I have is the IAT popping out (no the rubber grommets wont work). However, the SRT4 screw-in IATs are the same part number:)

cool tidbit of info there.

in regards to the manifold, have you considered the XV setup?
it should be pretty gnarly for boost. however a sheet metal intake from RDP would be wicked sick too.

[MagnumRT05]

cool tidbit of info there.

in regards to the manifold, have you considered the XV setup?
it should be pretty gnarly for boost. however a sheet metal intake from RDP would be wicked sick too.
Ive considered it, inquired information about it, but how long does it take someone to get a full kit?! Its always out of stock. Ive lost interest really in it and Steve's manifolds are superb looking. If the XV stuff is available very soon then for the price it cant be beat. Until then, lets see if the 5.7 one will blow apart.

[adamwahhab]

Hey Richie, I've taken my turbo setup 14lbs, without the IAT sensor popping out, maybe you drilled the hole to big?

[MagnumRT05]

Hey Richie, I've taken my turbo setup 14lbs, without the IAT sensor popping out, maybe you drilled the hole to big?
I used the 90* elbow from the other turbo kit which has the IAT/rubber grommet. Either way, Ive been doing alot of researching and if the part #s are the same, then ill just use it. Its $30 anyway and im just doing everything to be safe.

Now if I can just get this tune to run correctly so I can get some numbers already, Ill be happy. Dang car just wants to start up and bounce off the rev limiter. Plugs are gapped correctly and it doesnt seem to be a problem with the tune...wtf...

[MagnumRT05]

Little update.

The Fore hat w/ triple 255s are here, my last piece of the puzzle that I have been waiting for. Thanks Josh at HHP. All thats left to do is work with Johan a little more and it should be up and running in no time. Having a slight surging problem due to barometric pressure not cooperating, but I bet Johan can fix it in no time!

[Sharma]

WOW looking good, cant wait to see final results

[EXTREME]

wow, that's nice, can't wait to see the finished product!!!

[MagnumRT05]

wow, that's nice, can't wait to see the finished product!!!
Its about 99% finished. It just keeps slinging oil all over the place out of the exhaust. The engine has 0 miles on it so Im a little confused here. Oil pressure is at 40 psi. Turbo seals cant be bad. PCV valve seems alright. The thing that scares me is that the oil sometimes smells like gas during draining. If its an engine issue (valves, piston rings, etc) then I think its time to call it an end...time for a compression test I guess.

[dudeiwin86]

if theres 0 miles on the motor, then the rings may not be seated?

i really dont know man.

do you have a different oil pump? i thought at WOT we only get about 55 psi
and 25 or so at idle

[MagnumRT05]

if theres 0 miles on the motor, then the rings may not be seated?

i really dont know man.

do you have a different oil pump? i thought at WOT we only get about 55 psi
and 25 or so at idle
To my knowledge, the engine has been started up and idled/ran 6 times. The first 2 times it ran for about a minute without the turbos or anything else on there. I wasnt told about any oil issue when the shop started it up so I assume that things were fine then. The 3-6th times was with the turbos on there. The 3rd time was when my TPS went haywire and it bounced off the rev limiter for about 5 seconds and then was turned right off because of oil spewing/didnt want to hurt the motor. The rest of the times were after my tunes when things idled around 800-1200 RPM. Maybe they arent seated. I really have no clue at this point.

As far as oil pressure, I have a 2nd oil pump for the turbos and it was high 40s before the restrictors and low 40s after the restrictors. Nothing that should blow out turbo seals. The turbos are now clocked at 15* and it still does the same thing so that rules that out.

And this is my 2nd oil pump.
http://www.turbowerx.com/Scavenge_Pumps/Exa-Pump/Exa-Pump.html

I still dont understand the oil smelling like gas. The car starts right up so its not being flooded or anything. It smells during cold starts and warm starts. Its becoming a PITA to change the oil out everytime gas is smelled.

This build has become the "stumped" project. Things keep coming up that seems to stump everyone involved. First it was the rev limiter problem when the throttle showed 100% WOT when the pedal wasnt even being touched. Turned out to be the pedal assembly/TPS but who would have thought that on a 20k mile car? Now its this insane oil problem. Its starting to be not worth the hassle anymore as I havent driven the car in almost a year (will be a year in November).

[Cam]

You need to do a compression test and leak down. It also sounds like maybe your cylinder washing that thing on start-up. If the two tests don't show anything negative, get that tune checked. Hell, get it checked anyhow.

[dudeiwin86]

what about a static'd injector(s)?
maybe your spraying the piss out of one more more cylinders

[MagnumRT05]

You need to do a compression test and leak down. It also sounds like maybe your cylinder washing that thing on start-up. If the two tests don't show anything negative, get that tune checked. Hell, get it checked anyhow.
Those tests have been coming for awhile now, just afraid to see the results...

What would tunes have to do with oil? Im not too knowledgeable on everything the tunes can do so I dont know. Fuel isnt a huge issue to me, but the oil is. Its hard to clean up massive puddles of oil every minute the car runs and have the neighborhood go up in a grey cloud of smoke if someone steps on the throttle a little.
what about a static'd injector(s)?
maybe your spraying the piss out of one more more cylinders
I assume that Johan knows what hes doing in that area as tons of people are running the Ford 80# now. So Im leaning towards something else, but ill def ask about static. The wideband shows high 13s. I know it could use a little help there, but I dont want to keep bothering Johan until I can get it to stop spewing oil.

[adamwahhab]

I agree with cam Richie, the leak down and compression test, will give you a good idea if it's the rings, but from the sound of it, it does seem like your pre fuel settings are washing down the cylinders, and that's definatly not a good thing for the rings, I just got my car running over the weekend, I just took it on the freeway, kept the rpm's in the 2000-3000 range and just went for a long drive to let the rings seat.... By the way what rings are u running, gapless?

[adamwahhab]

Richie I have a few other questions for you, I'll pm u my number

[Redfox0099]

I had one of my injectors stick open and dumped some fuel at 100% for a minute or so and it got a little in the oil and went mostly out the exhaust....it was caused by the wire I had on the #5 injector to get my RPM signal for one of my gauges ground out for a little bit.

Do you have any wires hooked to any injectors to get RPM signals... even a remote start could do it.

[MagnumRT05]

I agree with cam Richie, the leak down and compression test, will give you a good idea if it's the rings, but from the sound of it, it does seem like your pre fuel settings are washing down the cylinders, and that's definatly not a good thing for the rings, I just got my car running over the weekend, I just took it on the freeway, kept the rpm's in the 2000-3000 range and just went for a long drive to let the rings seat.... By the way what rings are u running, gapless?
I cant even get the thing on the freeway or the road because of all the oil/smoke. Im too afraid of blowing a motor or something going haywire. As far as rings, gas nitrided steel top napier second. Will give you a ring soon as you may be my last hope:)

As far as any extra wires, I dont have a remote start or anything special. All clear around the injectors.

[Tim@NCTSLLC]

I will try to help you if you so desire, if I don't see a response, then I will assume you are not interested.

Is there any oil residue in the charge piping?

If you pull the silicone connector off a turbo discharge, do you have oil draining out?

If so, then it is an oil scavenge issue. Assuming it is.

What size lines are feeding the turbo's with oil?

What restrictor's do you have and where are they located?

Does your pump shut off when the engine shuts off, or does it continue to run for a preset time?

Regardless of your oil pressure, if you have more than .85 liter per minute draining out the turbo drain at idle, it will fill the center section and make it's way past the seals into both the hot and cold side (more in the hot side).

The farther the drain is from vertical, then the more of an issue it becomes.

If oil is in the charge piping, then both hot and cold sides will need to be removed and cleaned to get the oil residue out. The mufflers may very well be filled with oil as well.

[MagnumRT05]

I will try to help you if you so desire, if I don't see a response, then I will assume you are not interested.

Is there any oil residue in the charge piping?

If you pull the silicone connector off a turbo discharge, do you have oil draining out?

If so, then it is an oil scavenge issue. Assuming it is.

What size lines are feeding the turbo's with oil?

What restrictor's do you have and where are they located?

Does your pump shut off when the engine shuts off, or does it continue to run for a preset time?

Regardless of your oil pressure, if you have more than .85 liter per minute draining out the turbo drain at idle, it will fill the center section and make it's way past the seals into both the hot and cold side (more in the hot side).

The farther the drain is from vertical, then the more of an issue it becomes.

If oil is in the charge piping, then both hot and cold sides will need to be removed and cleaned to get the oil residue out. The mufflers may very well be filled with oil as well.
Sounds like all my problems that I am having. As far as mufflers, I dont have any. Just straight pipe which exits before the differential.

I have .030 restrictors in the line. The setup consists of a -4 feed to a -4 T, and in the T is where the restrictors are located.

[Tim@NCTSLLC]

Sounds like all my problems that I am having. As far as mufflers, I dont have any. Just straight pipe which exits before the differential.

I have .030 restrictors in the line. The setup consists of a -4 feed to a -4 T, and in the T is where the restrictors are located.

Wow, a .030 restrictor is less than 1/32 of an inch, can you verify that size? I can't imagine a flow rate issue with that small of a restrictor.

I use 3/16" diameter line with 1/8" ID fittings up to a flow restriction valve, and then into a 4AN fitting on the turbo inlet with a 1/16" (.0625") machined internal restriction orifice.

I just finished a forged 5.7 running a 6.1 performance pump, and it was producing 48 psi at idle, and there were no oil issues.

I know it sounds dumb, but sometimes it is the simple things, is there anyway that the pump is either plumbed backward or that the +/- leads are reversed.

Could the outlet lines be kinked preventing flow?

Either of these would instantly cause the same problem.

Is the vehicle still in Ohio?

[MagnumRT05]

Wow, a .030 restrictor is less than 1/32 of an inch, can you verify that size? I can't imagine a flow rate issue with that small of a restrictor.

I use 3/16" diameter line with 1/8" ID fittings up to a flow restriction valve, and then into a 4AN fitting on the turbo inlet with a 1/16" (.0625") machined internal restriction orifice.

I just finished a forged 5.7 running a 6.1 performance pump, and it was producing 48 psi at idle, and there were no oil issues.

I know it sounds dumb, but sometimes it is the simple things, is there anyway that the pump is either plumbed backward or that the +/- leads are reversed.

Could the outlet lines be kinked preventing flow?

Either of these would instantly cause the same problem.

Is the vehicle still in Ohio?
Its def a .030 restrictor. And everything has been checked and double checked thats why i am at my near end on this build. The Exa-Pump from Turbowerx was a PITA to start and I got a faulty one. They sent me a brand new one and its empties into a bucket perfectly now. I will check the lines again though.

The vehicle is located in Brunswick, OH at Big 3 Racing (www.big3racing.net) to help with all the fabrication work. I have too many projects here at the house with the Galaxie and MGB, so I took it there.

[Tim@NCTSLLC]

I would like to take a look at it, PM me about your availability this weekend, possibly I can run over there at see what's up. With that size restrictor, it has to be something else.

Does Big 3 have an AWD dyno? I need to get my Cherokee HP/TQ numbers.

[MagnumRT05]

Little update. All seems well now with no oil spewing after changing out the 2nd oil pump lines. -10AN lines were installed and seems to have stopped any oil issues that I have had. The pump recommends -6AN lines, but those didnt work very well:roll: More to follow very soon.

[dudeiwin86]

awesome dude. let us know how ti goes

[MagnumRT05]

And the problems begin again. The -10AN line worked for about 60 seconds and then oil is everywhere again after a couple little revvs. I guess its time for a triple oil pump setup with (2) Exa-Pumps. I hope this works and will report back next week.

[FLSRT8]

Make sure you clean out all the cold side pipes after each time you have an oil leak.
Where are your feed lines coming from the engine and where is it returning to the engine?

[MagnumRT05]

Make sure you clean out all the cold side pipes after each time you have an oil leak.
Where are your feed lines coming from the engine and where is it returning to the engine?
Everything was cleaned out and there was at least a quart of oil in the silicone connectors. And the head is tapped for the oil. I was told by some folks in the turbo industry that the oil pan isnt always the best spot for things so we will see. The pump is here so time for more lines/fittings:roll: If two pumps per turbo dont solve it, then I dont know where else to go.

[Tim@NCTSLLC]

Everything was cleaned out and there was at least a quart of oil in the silicone connectors. And the head is tapped for the oil. I was told by some folks in the turbo industry that the oil pan isnt always the best spot for things so we will see. The pump is here so time for more lines/fittings:roll: If two pumps per turbo dont solve it, then I dont know where else to go.

Richie,

Dang, I saw the other post and thought you had it fixed, I was by that area this weekend and could have stopped in.

Seriously, there is no reason that you should need two pumps per turbo. I wonder if the pumps your using have a problem dealing with an air/oil mix draining from the turbos.

It must be one of two things, either too much flow going in, or for some reason the pumps can not evacuate the oil. If they are not self priming, that is a big problem. Location may also hamper their function, if mounted high, they may have difficulty priming themselves as well.

Two pumps together may actually wind up fighting each other, depending on how they are connected (series or parallel).

Mounted next to the tranny, your drains are so low that I don't think a large common sump could be located, but if it could, it might be better to have both turbos drain through the large lines to a common sump and pull suction from the sump rather than the turbos.

I know it is a pain to keep having to clean everything out, but, you could try raising the car up on a lift enough and let the turbos gravity drain into a bucket under each turbo.

If it does the same thing again, you would know it is on the oil feed side, if it runs fine draining, then you would know that it is a pump configuration issue. I will try to call down there tomorrow afternoon and offer any assistance I can provide.

[MagnumRT05]

Richie,

Dang, I saw the other post and thought you had it fixed, I was by that area this weekend and could have stopped in.

Seriously, there is no reason that you should need two pumps per turbo. I wonder if the pumps your using have a problem dealing with an air/oil mix draining from the turbos.

It must be one of two things, either too much flow going in, or for some reason the pumps can not evacuate the oil. If they are not self priming, that is a big problem. Location may also hamper their function, if mounted high, they may have difficulty priming themselves as well.

Two pumps together may actually wind up fighting each other, depending on how they are connected (series or parallel).

Mounted next to the tranny, your drains are so low that I don't think a large common sump could be located, but if it could, it might be better to have both turbos drain through the large lines to a common sump and pull suction from the sump rather than the turbos.

I know it is a pain to keep having to clean everything out, but, you could try raising the car up on a lift enough and let the turbos gravity drain into a bucket under each turbo.

If it does the same thing again, you would know it is on the oil feed side, if it runs fine draining, then you would know that it is a pump configuration issue. I will try to call down there tomorrow afternoon and offer any assistance I can provide.
Ive never used this Turbowerx pump before so I figured I would give it a try. I called Turbonetics and they recommended the Exa-Pump or the Weldon one. I had this feeling from the start that I should have went with the Weldon pump and I guess I was right. Or I wish that STS would sell me their oiling stuff.

A common sump was talked about but at this point in time, Im already wayyy over my budget for this build. R&D isnt much fun at all...

[Tim@NCTSLLC]

Ive never used this Turbowerx pump before so I figured I would give it a try. I called Turbonetics and they recommended the Exa-Pump or the Weldon one. I had this feeling from the start that I should have went with the Weldon pump and I guess I was right. Or I wish that STS would sell me their oiling stuff.

A common sump was talked about but at this point in time, Im already wayyy over my budget for this build. R&D isnt much fun at all...

(For clarity, I am NOT referring to Turbowerx in my reply). Richie, anything you need, let me know. They do not manufacture their pumps, they only stick their label on it. I source my pumps from the same manufacturer. The new design is even better than the old design (no rubber cap any more, different gear cut). Any components you think you need, I have for an oiling system. I spent quite some time researching the best way to control the oil system, and use components that they do not.

Let me know what you need.

[MagnumRT05]

Richie, anything you need, let me know. They do not manufacture their pumps, they only stick their label on it. I source my pumps from the same manufacturer. The new design is even better than the old design (no rubber cap any more, different gear cut). Any components you think you need, I have for an oiling system. I spent quite some time researching the best way to control the oil system, and use components that they do not.

Let me know what you need.
At this point, Im not really sure what I need. I have been lead to believe that X will work by manufacturers and then I end up having to go with Y because X doesnt work. Big 3/I call and send pictures of every little connection/fitting/line/drain and confusion arises. Drains are vertical. Big 3 hooked up clear lines to the pump and the pump is working fine. Its just not getting all the oil out. I guess lets see what this 2nd pump does and go from there. If it blows up, then time to run the CIS kit again with a KB blower attached to it. Now if a certain shop that I used to go to would return all my components back to me like I have asked then maybe I could revert back to an old setup or even have a hood cowl/wipers/etc again, but thats for another thread:roll:

[Tim@NCTSLLC]

At this point, Im not really sure what I need. I have been lead to believe that X will work by manufacturers and then I end up having to go with Y because X doesnt work. Big 3/I call and send pictures of every little connection/fitting/line/drain and confusion arises. Drains are vertical. Big 3 hooked up clear lines to the pump and the pump is working fine. Its just not getting all the oil out. I guess lets see what this 2nd pump does and go from there. If it blows up, then time to run the CIS kit again with a KB blower attached to it. Now if a certain shop that I used to go to would return all my components back to me like I have asked then maybe I could revert back to an old setup or even have a hood cowl/wipers/etc again, but thats for another thread:roll:

I will give Big 3 a call this afternoon and go over a couple things with them. There are two items I use on the feed side that may help you out, and they are not expensive. I am certain we can figure this out without a lot of additional cash outlay for components. If they have pictures, I will see if I can get them to send them to me so I can look them over.

[MagnumRT05]

I will give Big 3 a call this afternoon and go over a couple things with them. There are two items I use on the feed side that may help you out, and they are not expensive. I am certain we can figure this out without a lot of additional cash outlay for components. If they have pictures, I will see if I can get them to send them to me so I can look them over.
Sounds good to me. Maybe we just need that other set of eyes to maybe see something that he/I am not seeing. And Im sure they have tons of pictures as they have been sending them to Turbowerx for weeks now.

[stevesrt8]

Damn, don't you just love hot rodding?

Keep your chin up, man.

Hats off to the pioneers.

[FLSRT8]

Richie I have a TT setup and if you can send the pics to me as well, I will see if I can help.

[Robert@SHR]

now this is what forums are supposed to be about!..helping one another!...with all the knowledge Tim and FLSRT8 have with turbos on these engines im pretty confident yall will get this figured out. Beans to you guys!...best of luck to you richie, cant wait to see some videos of this beast!! :thumbs_u:

[MagnumRT05]

Richie I have a TT setup and if you can send the pics to me as well, I will see if I can help.
Ill see if Tim can forward some of the pictures to me. The pump is mounted on the driver's side shock tower and then all the lines go down from there. The manufacturer said that pump height isnt an issue, but we will see in the end.
now this is what forums are supposed to be about!..helping one another!...with all the knowledge Tim and FLSRT8 have with turbos on these engines im pretty confident yall will get this figured out. Beans to you guys!...best of luck to you richie, cant wait to see some videos of this beast!! :thumbs_u:
I have a feeling that the first video will be of the rear end blowing up and the transmission getting toasted:)

[Robert@SHR]

I have a feeling that the first video will be of the rear end blowing up and the transmission getting toasted:)

lol!!...i sure hope not!...that would suck!...you should be able to get a couple WOT passes out of the tranny before its toasted completely, and when that happens im sure we can help you out.
:beerchug:

[Tim@NCTSLLC]

Okay, I talked to Derrick at Big 3 today (sorry for the delay, but I have been sick with the Flu for the past week). From what he is telling me, there is an issue with a single pump trying to pull from both turbo center sections. Somehow the T fitting is getting air bound or similar preventing the single pump from evacuating the oil out of the center sections.

They tested it with both turbos draining free to a bucket and the pump pulling from the bucket. All was fine.

They tested it with the pump pulling only from one turbo. All was fine.

Connect the pump through the T fitting to both turbos, oil winds up in the exhaust and the charge piping.

We think that the addition of the second pump allowing one pump to pull from one turbo should fix the issue.

It is odd that the T fitting would be causing an issue, but I have seen stranger things. I suspect it is creating a trap, or the fitting simply can not pass enough from both sides to keep it from backing up.

He has my number and is going to let me know how it works with one pump per turbo.

Hopefully this will get it on the road.

[dudeiwin86]

with the T fitting wouldnt it pull from the side with less resistance to suction? more pressure drop / ft on one side of the fitting if the plumbing is different lengths or bends?
is it only one turbo overflowing oil by chance?

[MagnumRT05]

Okay, I talked to Derrick at Big 3 today (sorry for the delay, but I have been sick with the Flu for the past week). From what he is telling me, there is an issue with a single pump trying to pull from both turbo center sections. Somehow the T fitting is getting air bound or similar preventing the single pump from evacuating the oil out of the center sections.

They tested it with both turbos draining free to a bucket and the pump pulling from the bucket. All was fine.

They tested it with the pump pulling only from one turbo. All was fine.

Connect the pump through the T fitting to both turbos, oil winds up in the exhaust and the charge piping.

We think that the addition of the second pump allowing one pump to pull from one turbo should fix the issue.

It is odd that the T fitting would be causing an issue, but I have seen stranger things. I suspect it is creating a trap, or the fitting simply can not pass enough from both sides to keep it from backing up.

He has my number and is going to let me know how it works with one pump per turbo.

Hopefully this will get it on the road.
I so appreciate the call. If two pumps solve the issue then that would be great. Kind of overkill, but if it works it works.
with the T fitting wouldnt it pull from the side with less resistance to suction? more pressure drop / ft on one side of the fitting if the plumbing is different lengths or bends?
is it only one turbo overflowing oil by chance?
Both turbos are overflowing. The difference in plumbing is so minimal that I dont think it should make a difference, but this build has proven itself to have very odd issues so anything is possible.

[Tim@NCTSLLC]

I spoke with Mark from Turbowerx today, and we were both in agreement that the issues must be related to the nature of the layout which is driven by minimal clearances to work with related to the overall turbo system layout. It is what it is, and in many cases, the clearances drive the actural design.

I had previously discussed this with Derrick at Big 3, so at this point, myself, Mark from Turbowerx, and Derrick from Big 3 all feel that the solution will be to run one pump per turbo. Sometimes due to system idiosyncrasies of a layout, this is the best solution.

It is not an issue with the Turbowerx pump, it is fully capable of handling all of the requirements associated with an underchassis mount turbo system, and it is simply related to the specifics of the system that it needs one pump per turbo to evacuate the oil in the manner that meets it's particular needs.

If I can be of any further assistance, please feel free to contact me.

[Darell]

If the oil drains are bull-headed at the tee, this would be a major restriction.

[MagnumRT05]

Update.

All the -10 and -8 AN lines and fittings are run (I think enough to circle the world) and no more oil since installing one oil pump per turbo. After recalibrating the new accelerator pedal this week and installing a couple last tunes, I think we are scheduled to blast off next week:)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/DMXanswerand1/Dodge%20Magnum/10284719.jpg

I think its time for some SRT coil packs as well:)

[sergeo'shemi]

hot damn, i think it is about time!

[STREET LIFE R/T]

holy snake pit....:panic:

[typicalmarine]

holy snake pit....:panic:

lmao

[MagnumRT05]

holy snake pit....:panic:
Youre telling me:roll:

BTW, the Fore stuff is right around 52psi so you, boss, know your stuff. Just have some last tuning to go and then all is well. The BARO codes (P0129) and the ETC light/limp mode seem to be my only issues now. Lets see what happens tomorrow.

[STREET LIFE R/T]

Youre telling me:roll:

BTW, the Fore stuff is right around 52psi so you, boss, know your stuff. Just have some last tuning to go and then all is well. The BARO codes (P0129) and the ETC light/limp mode seem to be my only issues now. Lets see what happens tomorrow.

Im glad I was able to help you out...The BARO code gave me a run for my money long time ago..but josh fixed all of that...Also, a bad MAP sensor can cause those lights and code to come on..is you lightning bolt flashing also???

[Tim@NCTSLLC]

Youre telling me:roll:

BTW, the Fore stuff is right around 52psi so you, boss, know your stuff. Just have some last tuning to go and then all is well. The BARO codes (P0129) and the ETC light/limp mode seem to be my only issues now. Lets see what happens tomorrow.

If you don't get your codes figured out, give a call.

[MagnumRT05]

Im glad I was able to help you out...The BARO code gave me a run for my money long time ago..but josh fixed all of that...Also, a bad MAP sensor can cause those lights and code to come on..is you lightning bolt flashing also???
The MAP is a brand new Caliber one, so I really hope it isnt the MAP. I dont recall the ETC light flashing, just always on. I did have to replace my TPS/pedal assembly, but it was recalibrated today so my guess is its in the tune, particularly in the BARO scaling..? The KOEO numbers are 2in-Hg and then BARO is at 31in-Hg KOER. Im sure Johan will send me tons of tunes tomorrow to try like he always does and then it should be fixed in no time.
If you don't get your codes figured out, give a call.
Eh, if I call, I might end up ordering the iEMS3:panic:

[Tim@NCTSLLC]

The MAP is a brand new Caliber one, so I really hope it isnt the MAP. I dont recall the ETC light flashing, just always on. I did have to replace my TPS/pedal assembly, but it was recalibrated today so my guess is its in the tune, particularly in the BARO scaling..? The KOEO numbers are 2in-Hg and then BARO is at 31in-Hg KOER. Im sure Johan will send me tons of tunes tomorrow to try like he always does and then it should be fixed in no time.

Eh, if I call, I might end up ordering the iEMS3:panic:

That's fine to, but I would still like to hear what your issues were and the resolution, it adds to my database in my head In particular what was going on with the pedal and TPS, and what led you to those two items.

The p0129 is related to low MAP voltage seen by the ECU at key on for the baro reading, it could be the caliber MAP sensor reads too low, or simply the scaling is out of range at key on, or a loose connection to the MAP sensor or other wiring issue, or a bad sensor itself.

[MagnumRT05]

That's fine to, but I would still like to hear what your issues were and the resolution, it adds to my database in my head In particular what was going on with the pedal and TPS, and what led you to those two items.

The p0129 is related to low MAP voltage seen by the ECU at key on for the baro reading, it could be the caliber MAP sensor reads too low, or simply the scaling is out of range at key on, or a loose connection to the MAP sensor or other wiring issue, or a bad sensor itself.
Well the pedal was replaced because it just went WOT/100% all the time and bounced off the rev limiter as soon as the shop installed my new engine. Not sure if it happened during install at RDP or what, but thats not even the point. As soon as I started the car up, Starscan told me that the reading was 100% and then when I stepped on the pedal the numbers didnt change. I checked vacuum leaks and everything and then Big 3 had the idea to change out the TPS, which I guess you have to buy the whole pedal assembly to get the TPS. Replaced that, recalibrated the pedal and no more WOT all the time.

As far as P0129, BARO allowed voltage was set too high. All is well now and the car is back home:) I think its been exactly one year today when my car went under the knife and its soo nice to have it back. Big 3 Racing is the bomb.

For having two massive 70-trim turbos, this thing starts making serious boost at 1500 RPM:panic: Thank you Stu for the sweet camshaft. Videos will follow very soon...

[done]

Any plans to get it on the track this year?

[dudeiwin86]

very cool.
lets see some vids, dyno charts, anything!

[MagnumRT05]

Any plans to get it on the track this year?
Thats been the goal for the past couple months, but I have to pick and choose wisely as it wont meet any legal requirements. Dragway 42 here doesnt really look for cage/etc so thats the plan. Id be happy with just being able to drive the car though at this point.

Little update. Back to the drawing board. During datalogs, MAP at idle is only reading 30 kPa, so Houston we have a problem. I dont have a huge cam, so it should be reading alot higher Im told. Vacuum leak? Pushrod not seated? Im happy to say that after taking the valve covers off, the pushrods arent out of wack at all so I think I can rule that out. Kind of scared me after throwing a P0300 Random Misfire code while transporting the car. After clearing the code, it hasnt come back since so I think Im safe. If there was a rod out, I would think that it would have thrown a Cyl X Misfire code no? Oh well.

Time to find out if theres a vacuum leak somewhere:evil:

[Tim@NCTSLLC]

Little update. Back to the drawing board. During datalogs, MAP at idle is only reading 30 kPa, so Houston we have a problem. I dont have a huge cam, so it should be reading alot higher Im told.

Time to find out if theres a vacuum leak somewhere:evil:

That's only about 8.8 inches of vacuum, that is way less vacuum than you should have even with a fairly aggressive cam.

Do you have vacuum gauge to get an actual inches of vacuum reading? You should be around 17" of vacuum with a mild cam, so that is a pretty bad vacuum leak if you do have one, and should be able to be heard. It would need to be a large line like the brake booster hose, or a serious problem with the intake/gaskets. Are you still running a plastic manifold, with higher levels of boost, it is possible to split it although rare.

[ElecTech]

If you are actually logging vacuum in KPA, that would be low (approx. 8.86 inHg), but if you are actually logging Manifold Absolute Pressure in KPA, then that is low, nearly factory. Larger cams will usually show a higher MAP value (low vacuum) around 50-60 kpa. If that value is right, I doubt there is a vacuum leak.

Maybe MAP scaling is off?

[Tim@NCTSLLC]

If you are actually logging vacuum in KPA, that would be low (approx. 8.86 inHg), but if you are actually logging Manifold Absolute Pressure in KPA, then that is low, nearly factory. Larger cams will usually show a higher MAP value (low vacuum) around 50-60 kpa. If that value is right, I doubt there is a vacuum leak.

Maybe MAP scaling is off?

Yes, I agree, it is hard to tell from just a KPA number without a reference. That is why I like to see a simple mechanical vacuum gauge reading.

Big thing is how is it running at idle?

[MagnumRT05]

That's only about 8.8 inches of vacuum, that is way less vacuum than you should have even with a fairly aggressive cam.

Do you have vacuum gauge to get an actual inches of vacuum reading? You should be around 17" of vacuum with a mild cam, so that is a pretty bad vacuum leak if you do have one, and should be able to be heard. It would need to be a large line like the brake booster hose, or a serious problem with the intake/gaskets. Are you still running a plastic manifold, with higher levels of boost, it is possible to split it although rare.
Vacuum gauge showed 18" prior to me transporting the car, not sure what it is now but it shouldnt have changed. Still running the 5.7 manifold. All the gaskets are new except the manifold gasket, so thats the idea as of now. The motor hasnt seen any boost higher than 2psi yet.
If you are actually logging vacuum in KPA, that would be low (approx. 8.86 inHg), but if you are actually logging Manifold Absolute Pressure in KPA, then that is low, nearly factory. Larger cams will usually show a higher MAP value (low vacuum) around 50-60 kpa. If that value is right, I doubt there is a vacuum leak.

Maybe MAP scaling is off?
I was told that with my cam, it should be around 55 kpa. I asked about MAP scaling. I was told that it was ok and I assume it is as Johan has already done numerous cars with the SRT4 3 bar MAP. Maybe the Caliber 3-bar is different than the Neon........
Yes, I agree, it is hard to tell from just a KPA number without a reference. That is why I like to see a simple mechanical vacuum gauge reading.

Big thing is how is it running at idle?
Like @$$. Starts out really rich (10.0) and then shoots up to about 16.5-17.0 and then it will settle down to about 14.3 on the gauge. Then it will die and so on. But we are trying to get the MAP right before any adjustments are made for the new fuel system.

[Tim@NCTSLLC]

Vacuum gauge showed 18" prior to me transporting the car, not sure what it is now but it shouldnt have changed. Still running the 5.7 manifold. All the gaskets are new except the manifold gasket, so thats the idea as of now. The motor hasnt seen any boost higher than 2psi yet.

I was told that with my cam, it should be around 55 kpa. I asked about MAP scaling. I was told that it was ok and I assume it is as Johan has already done numerous cars with the SRT4 3 bar MAP. Maybe the Caliber 3-bar is different than the Neon........

Like @$$. Starts out really rich (10.0) and then shoots up to about 16.5-17.0 and then it will settle down to about 14.3 on the gauge. Then it will die and so on. But we are trying to get the MAP right before any adjustments are made for the new fuel system.

So you have the 2.25 bar srt-4 sensor or the 3 bar sensor? 2.25 was stock, 3 bar was with the upgrade kits on the Neon SRT-4.

The caliber srt-4 sensor could very well be different than the neon srt-4 sensors which are the more commonly used ones.

If you vac gauge reads 18", then I would venture to say your MAP scaling is off quite a bit.

[MagnumRT05]

So you have the 2.25 bar srt-4 sensor or the 3 bar sensor? 2.25 was stock, 3 bar was with the upgrade kits on the Neon SRT-4.

The caliber srt-4 sensor could very well be different than the neon srt-4 sensors which are the more commonly used ones.

If you vac gauge reads 18", then I would venture to say your MAP scaling is off quite a bit.
I have a 3-bar Caliber one. I contacted Realtune Performance and they gave me the part # and said the scaling was the same as the Neon. The Caliber one was like $30. I guess I will check the manifold and then check the scaling again.

[Tim@NCTSLLC]

I have a 3-bar Caliber one. I contacted Realtune Performance and they gave me the part # and said the scaling was the same as the Neon. The Caliber one was like $30. I guess I will check the manifold and then check the scaling again.

If your vac gauge is reading 18" at idle, then you don't have any vac leaks, has to be the scaling.

[MagnumRT05]

Update. Compression test is perfect. Smoke test/visual test confirmed no vacuum leaks. Pulled all the plugs and they are super fouled. Lets hope some new plugs can solve this issue, otherwise time to look at the camshaft...

[Tim@NCTSLLC]

Update. Compression test is perfect. Smoke test/visual test confirmed no vacuum leaks. Pulled all the plugs and they are super fouled. Lets hope some new plugs can solve this issue, otherwise time to look at the camshaft...

If your MAP sesnor scaling is off, the ECU will be dumping a butt load of fuel and fouling the plugs.

Take a look at your fuel trims and see what they are doing and check for any rich codes while at idle.

[MagnumRT05]

If your MAP sesnor scaling is off, the ECU will be dumping a butt load of fuel and fouling the plugs.

Take a look at your fuel trims and see what they are doing and check for any rich codes while at idle.
Well I know the fuel trims are way off, but we kind of wanted to fix the low MAP issue first and then dial in the fuel stuff. No codes, thats why I am so baffled.

Another little interesting find. 4 of the cylinders/plugs look much better than the other 4 cylinders. I thought maybe MDS was still on, but that isnt the problem:panic:


EDIT: Looks like the car will not be on the road this year. Time to pull the heads and install some non-MDS lifters.

[Tim@NCTSLLC]

Well I know the fuel trims are way off, but we kind of wanted to fix the low MAP issue first and then dial in the fuel stuff. No codes, thats why I am so baffled.

Another little interesting find. 4 of the cylinders/plugs look much better than the other 4 cylinders. I thought maybe MDS was still on, but that isnt the problem:panic:


EDIT: Looks like the car will not be on the road this year. Time to pull the heads and install some non-MDS lifters.

If the trims are way off, that is another sign of the MAP scaling being the issue. I certainly would believe an analog vac gauge reading taken directly off the manifold.

Why switching MDS lifters at this time? I doubt they are part of the fueling issue right now.

[MagnumRT05]

If the trims are way off, that is another sign of the MAP scaling being the issue. I certainly would believe an analog vac gauge reading taken directly off the manifold.

Why switching MDS lifters at this time? I doubt they are part of the fueling issue right now.
Well the vacuum is 18" as soon as the car starts. Then it will hover around 8.5" for a little and then it will shoot up to 18" again. Seeing as how the non-MDS cylinders look pristine and the MDS cylinders have carbon build up/fouled plugs, its gotta be an issue with MDS. I dont have the MDS solenoids and MDS is turned off, yet I have MDS lifters, I dont think its making a good combo. Just a little mix up that had happened. I dont see any way to really change it other than adding the solenoids, but then I have the issue of part throttle boost + MDS. So I guess non-MDS lifters is the smart way to go...

[dudeiwin86]

stupid question but...

are you sure youre not running on 4 cylinders accidently?

in the old cars, you CAN NOT remove the MDS solenoids.
it will run on 4 cylinders only, you have to leave them in the block and attached to the harness, and just use the tune to disabled them, and run regular lifters.

put regular lifters in, put mds solenoids in. disable mds in the tune.

[Tim@NCTSLLC]

Well the vacuum is 18" as soon as the car starts. Then it will hover around 8.5" for a little and then it will shoot up to 18" again. Seeing as how the non-MDS cylinders look pristine and the MDS cylinders have carbon build up/fouled plugs, its gotta be an issue with MDS. I dont have the MDS solenoids and MDS is turned off, yet I have MDS lifters, I dont think its making a good combo. Just a little mix up that had happened. I dont see any way to really change it other than adding the solenoids, but then I have the issue of part throttle boost + MDS. So I guess non-MDS lifters is the smart way to go...

Okay, I see what you are saying now, makes more sense. What issue you have with part throttle boost and MDS? It should kick out of MDS close to 0 inches of vacuum.

I have no problem running MDS, never sees boost in 4cyl mode, always kicks out. But, I am tuned with the iEMS3 not a CMR tune. I run part throttle boost all the time, way more than I run wide open throttle. I will even see it go into part throttle boost going up hills in cruise control, nice smooth transition and then drops right back out of boost as the load drops off at the crest of the rise. Cruise control stays engaged and speed is constant.

[MagnumRT05]

stupid question but...

are you sure youre not running on 4 cylinders accidently?

in the old cars, you CAN NOT remove the MDS solenoids.
it will run on 4 cylinders only, you have to leave them in the block and attached to the harness, and just use the tune to disabled them, and run regular lifters.

put regular lifters in, put mds solenoids in. disable mds in the tune.
This is a brand new motor and I believe that the MDS solenoids are plugged. At this point, it sounds like a mixture of plugged solenoids, MDS disabled, and regular lifters so I need the solenoids and harness. Im not sure how disabling MDS works in the tune so I have no idea about that subject.
Okay, I see what you are saying now, makes more sense. What issue you have with part throttle boost and MDS? It should kick out of MDS close to 0 inches of vacuum.

I have no problem running MDS, never sees boost in 4cyl mode, always kicks out. But, I am tuned with the iEMS3 not a CMR tune. I run part throttle boost all the time, way more than I run wide open throttle. I will even see it go into part throttle boost going up hills in cruise control, nice smooth transition and then drops right back out of boost as the load drops off at the crest of the rise. Cruise control stays engaged and speed is constant.
Im not totally ready to switch to iEMS3 yet however so thats why part throttle and MDS is scary. Im way over my budget already with all these annoying issues, so the funds arent there right now.

[dudeiwin86]

you can disable it VIA the handheld on any tune you have.
im pretty sure you can also disable it with the CMR.

does it sound like its running on all 8?

ive seen on 2 different R/T cars where they will only run on 4 from the second you start them if you dont have the solenoids in the block and hooked up to the harness, even with it disabled in the tune.

[Tim@NCTSLLC]

Im not totally ready to switch to iEMS3 yet however so thats why part throttle and MDS is scary. Im way over my budget already with all these annoying issues, so the funds arent there right now.

I understand, what I am interested in is if you are actually seeing boost while still in MDS mode? I never saw that situation even before I started tuning with the iEMS3 several years ago.

I assume your MDS harness and solenoids were part of the "missing" parts you never got back from the other shop.

I can check with a builder I use and see if they might possibly have them laying around from an engine build.

[MagnumRT05]

you can disable it VIA the handheld on any tune you have.
im pretty sure you can also disable it with the CMR.

does it sound like its running on all 8?

ive seen on 2 different R/T cars where they will only run on 4 from the second you start them if you dont have the solenoids in the block and hooked up to the harness, even with it disabled in the tune.
It doesnt sound like a normal Hemi, so I would venture to say that that meant it was running on 4 only. Lets see what it sounds like with all 8:)
I understand, what I am interested in is if you are actually seeing boost while still in MDS mode? I never saw that situation even before I started tuning with the iEMS3 several years ago.

I assume your MDS harness and solenoids were part of the "missing" parts you never got back from the other shop.

I can check with a builder I use and see if they might possibly have them laying around from an engine build.
I actually was able to make a couple pounds of boost while doing some datalogs on 4 cylinders. Little did I know that I was actually on 4 cylinders then. And yes, I am missing tons of stuff including the solenoids/harness, but Stu is stepping up and sending me some asap. If by some wild chance that he doesnt, then I will give you a call. Just trying to get some numbers being the snow falls and that isnt too far off.

[Tim@NCTSLLC]

It doesnt sound like a normal Hemi, so I would venture to say that that meant it was running on 4 only. Lets see what it sounds like with all 8:)

I actually was able to make a couple pounds of boost while doing some datalogs on 4 cylinders. Little did I know that I was actually on 4 cylinders then. And yes, I am missing tons of stuff including the solenoids/harness, but Stu is stepping up and sending me some asap. If by some wild chance that he doesnt, then I will give you a call. Just trying to get some numbers being the snow falls and that isnt too far off.

Let me know if I can help you out any.

[MagnumRT05]

Update. The MDS plugs are out and all the MDS stuff has been put back in. Ive got full vacuum and am now running on 8 cylinders. It also sounds a little more "normal" and doesnt stall out when it goes into MDS mode. Id say 2 more last tunes by Johan and then time for some big boost runs..?

[dudeiwin86]

haha, been there.

you fire up a new combination not knowing what it sounds like..
and when it doesnt run right youre stumped.

then when you nail the MDS issue... your like OOOOOH ..... now that sounds right...

haha, im glad to hear my thought pulled thru!
lookin forward to some big boost results!

[MagnumRT05]

We have boost:) Photobucket wont upload my other videos so this is all I have for now.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/DMXanswerand1/Dodge%20Magnum/th_IMAG1804.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/DMXanswerand1/Dodge%20Magnum/?action=view&current=IMAG1804.flv)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/DMXanswerand1/Dodge%20Magnum/th_1125091712a_426964.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/DMXanswerand1/Dodge%20Magnum/?action=view&current=1125091712a_426964.flv)

More to follow tomorrow/this week.

[Sharma]

Congrats!!!!

[05silvhemimag]

Bout time !!!! haha sounds good..

[MagnumRT05]

Well I figured that I could get a couple dyno/street runs in with the stock transmission, but I was sadly mistaken. After heading out for some race gas at Speedway, I figured why not turn the boost up to 18psi and let her rip. I did manage to get full boost, but the transmission threw a P0700 (no limp mode though...). I cleared it and it comes back right when I start the car. Now she keeps wanting to pop out of gear all the time/rev and take an hour to downshift during cruising. With snow now here, I guess its time to call it an end this season/year after only 3 WOT runs, but I hope to have it running perfectly by March thanks to SHR. To be continued...

[Cam]

Don't be disappointed Richie............look at the bright side..........you got to actually break your very first part!!!!!:friday::pepper::rock::thumbs_u::banana:: pepper::hammer::chickdance::wax::magburno::mrgreen :

[uglyman8]

This thread was awesome!!! I like how everyone pulled together and helped out. I love that about this forum!! Welcome to the 'broke sh*t" club! I've broke a rear end and a motor!! Glad to see you got it all figured out. Can't wait to see SHR set u up w/a tranny. Will be watching to see dyno/drag times. Nice job to all envolved. :sosayweall:

[MagnumRT05]

Going to Big 3 Racing for dyno runs. Results later with stock trans......

[LIL WAGON]

well.................

[sergeo'shemi]

http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=197630&page=2
well.................