CIS refurbished turbo kinda up and running

[Flmango1832]

Lets just say this turbo project has been a huge pain in the ass and it is still giving me problems, but hopefully ill get em straighten out nd post up pics of the project. Ive been through many oil downs. I got the car dyno tuned at Precision Motorsports of Florida. Im not sure exactly what dyno they have but it is comparable to a mustang dyno. 7psi till 4850rpms then falls off to 5psi after that
http://sn104w.snt104.mail.live.com/att/GetAttachment.aspx?tnail=0&messageId=d9caba20-3f5e-4c8b-b1e8-5066e257245c&Aux=40|0|8CB7B9CB8ED7110|
Yess i make peak hp at 4850 supposedly because ive already exceeded the capabilities of the turbo at that point and yes i know for a turbo the tq is peaking real late... i have no answer for that. I drove it around a 2 days find it it hard to start nd boggin bad. I check my engine nd see oil residue on my BOV so i take off the chare pipe and find out its full of oil (which couldnt be good for my numbers and my car). So when i get the oil issue fixed im going to take it to a dynojet nd see what it lays down then ill update you guys with some pics, numbers, maybe some videos , and track times. Oh I have hi-flows btw. Nd tim if your out there i think im gunna need to upgrade to a t4/t4 cuz my curve and numbers look nothing like yours

Oh nd its on a conservative tune a/f runnin between 10.5-11.5 w/ water/meth starting at ~2psi and 100% at ~4.5 psi

[STREET LIFE R/T]

Lets just say this turbo project has been a huge pain in the ass and it is still giving me problems, but hopefully ill get em straighten out nd post up pics of the project. Ive been through many oil downs. I got the car dyno tuned at Precision Motorsports of Florida. Im not sure exactly what dyno they have but it is comparable to a mustang dyno. 7psi till 4850rpms then falls off to 5psi after that
http://sn104w.snt104.mail.live.com/att/GetAttachment.aspx?tnail=0&messageId=d9caba20-3f5e-4c8b-b1e8-5066e257245c&Aux=40|0|8CB7B9CB8ED7110|
Yess i make peak hp at 4850 supposedly because ive already exceeded the capabilities of the turbo at that point and yes i know for a turbo the tq is peaking real late... i have no answer for that. I drove it around a 2 days find it it hard to start nd boggin bad. I check my engine nd see oil residue on my BOV so i take off the chare pipe and find out its full of oil (which couldnt be good for my numbers and my car). So when i get the oil issue fixed im going to take it to a dynojet nd see what it lays down then ill update you guys with some pics, numbers, maybe some videos , and track times. Oh I have hi-flows btw. Nd tim if your out there i think im gunna need to upgrade to a t4/t4 cuz my curve and numbers look nothing like yours

Oh nd its on a conservative tune a/f runnin between 10.5-11.5 w/ water/meth starting at ~2psi and 100% at ~4.5 psi

You need a catch can buddy...:wink:

[charginscott]

I am not sure about boosted cars but the A/F NEEDS TO BE AROUND 12.5

[Johnparts]

No a boosted car needs 11.5 afr to survive

Posted via LXFMobile

[STREET LIFE R/T]

I am not sure about boosted cars but the A/F NEEDS TO BE AROUND 12.5

^^^Thats all motor AR's

Most boost applications I see sit around 11.8-12 at the highest...

[pbmgoat]

Theres a red "X" for the graph Zane...

You need a catch can buddy...:wink:

Do you think the catch can is the solution to this issue? There shouldnt be oil coming from the turbo. We first had a problem with the oil pump not switching on when the car was running but we could hear the pump was working when the car was in the "ON" position and when in "ACC" position. We scrapped the CIS box (we were only using it for the oil pump because we have a stand alone boost refrenced meth kit) and I wired the oil pump to a switch (powered from the battery) just to get to the dyno.

We have since taken the pump off the switch and I have the pump running off a fuse that is hot when the car is running and when the key is in the "ON" position. I dont know if the oil has been coming out since we had it on the switch or if it is only happening since I moved it to the fuse.

[STREET LIFE R/T]

Theres a red "X" for the graph Zane...



Do you think the catch can is the solution to this issue? There shouldnt be oil coming from the turbo. We first had a problem with the oil pump not switching on when the car was running but we could hear the pump was working when the car was in the "ON" position and when in "ACC" position. We scrapped the CIS box (we were only using it for the oil pump because we have a stand alone boost refrenced meth kit) and I wired the oil pump to a switch (powered from the battery) just to get to the dyno.

We have since taken the pump off the switch and I have the pump running off a fuse that is hot when the car is running and when the key is in the "ON" position. I dont know if the oil has been coming out since we had it on the switch or if it is only happening since I moved it to the fuse.

I check my engine nd see oil residue on my BOV so i take off the chare pipe and find out its full of oil (which couldnt be good for my numbers and my car).

^^^Its a solution to this issue.

[Flmango1832]

Sorry I cant post the link to the dyno because i need at least 5 post before i can post a URL

I dont think the solutions is a catch can (unless I want to dump it everyday) the turbo is filling over centerline and pouring oil into the exhaust and intake. It is not a fast leak but it is definantly not good. We put a nitrous jet in the oil line to the turbo to slow the flow of oil. So i dont know if we should put a smaller jet in it to restrict t more or we need the pump to get it back to the car faster. :banghead:

On a happier note i cant wait to get it on a dynojet and to the track. Those mustang dynos are heartbreakers.

[Tim@NCTSLLC]

We scrapped the CIS box (we were only using it for the oil pump because we have a stand alone boost refrenced meth kit) and I wired the oil pump to a switch (powered from the battery) just to get to the dyno.

We have since taken the pump off the switch and I have the pump running off a fuse that is hot when the car is running and when the key is in the "ON" position. I dont know if the oil has been coming out since we had it on the switch or if it is only happening since I moved it to the fuse.

Not a good idea, you need the timing function in the box to keep that pump on after you shut the key off. Pump needs to run about 35 - 45 seconds then it turns off to clear the residual oil out of the center section.

I did not sell the system to you directly, but if you are having a problem with the box, ship it back and I will be happy to check it out for no charge just to make sure it is functioning correctly.

[Tim@NCTSLLC]

Turbo is sized for a stock 5.7 and no more, even mine fell off some on the upper end.

Your dyno numbers are close to what my numbers were on a mustang dyno, on a dynojet it made 411 rwhp and 500 rwtq. I think you will be close to that.

Keep in mind, that my car WAS NOT tuned with a Diablo tune, but rather tuned by me via the iEMS3 engine management system. If you are having drivability issues, it is your tuning and not the FI system causing it.

Regarding the oil, you stated you were seeing 60psi pressure at idle which is high from what I have seen, and if it is that high, as I stated before, you need to get the flow cut down. Even with an open drain, if the flow is too high it will flood out along the shaft as it just can't get through the center section fast enough. Initially the system was run without the oil pump functioning, and this pumped a lot of oil into the exhaust and the charge piping. Precision had told me that it had stopped spitting residual oil out the exhaust after a pill was installed in the feedline. It will burn out of the exhaust without cleaning it out. The charge piping is different, as I had mentioned, unless the piping is removed and all residual oil is cleaned out, it will take a very long time for it to dissipate on its own, and it will push residual oil up to the BOV and TB every time it goes into boost, so this may very well be what you are seeing. If the piping was not removed and cleaned out, I would advise doing so.

Mine would reach 500 ftlb tq by 3500 rpm on a dynojet, every vehicle and every dyno is different.

7psi to 4850 and then dropping to five is pretty consistant. You could probably hold further if you were using an advanced electronic boost control with a feedback circuit so the controller could adjust the pulsewidth to the solenoid to hold boost.

If you are running the water/meth at 100% output by 4.5 psi, I think you are spraying too much and may be killing power. I never went over about 60 - 70 % capacity of pump output.

You and Precision both have my number, feel free to call anytime.

Lets just say this turbo project has been a huge pain in the ass and it is still giving me problems, but hopefully ill get em straighten out nd post up pics of the project. Ive been through many oil downs. I got the car dyno tuned at Precision Motorsports of Florida. Im not sure exactly what dyno they have but it is comparable to a mustang dyno. 7psi till 4850rpms then falls off to 5psi after that
http://sn104w.snt104.mail.live.com/att/GetAttachment.aspx?tnail=0&messageId=d9caba20-3f5e-4c8b-b1e8-5066e257245c&Aux=40%7C0%7C8CB7B9CB8ED7110%7C
Yess i make peak hp at 4850 supposedly because ive already exceeded the capabilities of the turbo at that point and yes i know for a turbo the tq is peaking real late... i have no answer for that. I drove it around a 2 days find it it hard to start nd boggin bad. I check my engine nd see oil residue on my BOV so i take off the chare pipe and find out its full of oil (which couldnt be good for my numbers and my car). So when i get the oil issue fixed im going to take it to a dynojet nd see what it lays down then ill update you guys with some pics, numbers, maybe some videos , and track times. Oh I have hi-flows btw. Nd tim if your out there i think im gunna need to upgrade to a t4/t4 cuz my curve and numbers look nothing like yours

Oh nd its on a conservative tune a/f runnin between 10.5-11.5 w/ water/meth starting at ~2psi and 100% at ~4.5 psi

[pbmgoat]

Hey Tim, we got everything up and running again. The oil pump must not have been getting proper voltage. We took the restrictor out and put the pump back on a switch and so far so good. Were taking it out for a drive in a little bit so hope for the best! :D I think Zane, you should probally still get a oil catch can just incase, but at the rate it was flowing before we fixed it today, we would have to dump it everytime you drove; now it will just be there for extra saftey.

As far as the timing function, since it is on a switch now Zane just lets the pump run for 30-40 or so seconds after the car is off to pull the oil out of the center section as the CIS box would do (hes just got to sit and wait for it now).

We looked at the oil psi today after we got everything running and it looks like its around 55 psi at idle on a cold start up but it goes to around 25-30 when the oil is warm.

I hope this thread didnt come across as insulting to you Tim, you have been very helpful over PM and our phone calls, and I think everything is good to go now. Thank you for the offer on the CIS box, but the only reason we are not using it is because with Zanes car (06 Daytona) we would have to splice into the wires under the fuse box like you instructed and Im not 100% confident in doing so.

We will look over the meth and talk to Bob at Precision and see about the meth settings. I thought it was pretty odd to be at 100% that soon as well. It goes through meth pretty quickly too so that may be the fix for that.

Lets just hope that the DynoJet is a little more nice to us :). We should have some vids and pics pretty soon and maybe a DynoJet sheet in the next few weeks!

[Tim@NCTSLLC]

No offense taken at all, I just want to make sure any owner whether new or used are set up correctly and getting the most possible out of the system, you can contact me anytime.

I checked my old numbers from the Mustang dyno run, and it showed 367 HP and 453 tq, very close to your numbers, so I beleive your dynojet numbers should be up near what mine were as well. Your torque is down a bit, could be in the tune, or could be too much spray. If using a lebonte or snow progressive box, set your dials to come on around 2 psi and max at 12 psi and see what that does for you. If you do not have one, you should install an EGT gauge and probe to monitor the exhasut gas temps which will tell you when you have enough cooling taking place from the spray. The electrical splice is easy to make, one simple solder joint and he can do away with the switch.

Also, if you did not move the oil return from the oil cap to the valve cover as per the instructions, you will continue to suck return oil back through the crankcase vent line and back into the turbo intake and eventually back through the charge piping, so that is important that you move it.

The very first dynojet numbers ever on the first runs (almost three years ago) were 337 hp and 360 tq, the refinements took it to 411 hp and 500 tq at the wheels. Unless you plan to upgrade your engine internals, the current turbo is fine, any larger and you will be pushing the stock internals past their limits.

Good luck and let me know how things go or if I can help in any way.

Hey Tim, we got everything up and running again. The oil pump must not have been getting proper voltage. We took the restrictor out and put the pump back on a switch and so far so good. Were taking it out for a drive in a little bit so hope for the best! :D I think Zane, you should probally still get a oil catch can just incase, but at the rate it was flowing before we fixed it today, we would have to dump it everytime you drove; now it will just be there for extra saftey.

As far as the timing function, since it is on a switch now Zane just lets the pump run for 30-40 or so seconds after the car is off to pull the oil out of the center section as the CIS box would do (hes just got to sit and wait for it now).

We looked at the oil psi today after we got everything running and it looks like its around 55 psi at idle on a cold start up but it goes to around 25-30 when the oil is warm.

I hope this thread didnt come across as insulting to you Tim, you have been very helpful over PM and our phone calls, and I think everything is good to go now. Thank you for the offer on the CIS box, but the only reason we are not using it is because with Zanes car (06 Daytona) we would have to splice into the wires under the fuse box like you instructed and Im not 100% confident in doing so.

We will look over the meth and talk to Bob at Precision and see about the meth settings. I thought it was pretty odd to be at 100% that soon as well. It goes through meth pretty quickly too so that may be the fix for that.

Lets just hope that the DynoJet is a little more nice to us :). We should have some vids and pics pretty soon and maybe a DynoJet sheet in the next few weeks!

[pbmgoat]

Wow those Mustang dynos sure are heartbreakers! Should be intresting to see our results when we get on the DynoJet.

Thanks for the advise on the meth kit, Zanes using a Labonte progressive controller. I think the next things for Zane to get is the EGT gauge and maybe a catch can just to be safe. We drove to the movies and around town and there was no oil coming out that we could see. There was a little boost leak but that will be fixed tomorrow morning.

I moved the oil return to the valve cover the day we talked about it Tim so thats all taken care of as well. It was actually much easier than I thought to take to valve cover off so it worked out fine.

Thanks again for the help Tim!

[Flmango1832]

Well you know why GoMango is the best.....
























It was in the new Fast and Furious:rock:..... Track time coming soon... i want everybody to pray for a sub 3 sec. 60ft. :racing:

[hemi nick]

You need a catch can buddy...:wink:

Also a one way check valve spliced between your pcv and intake manifold would help too:beerchug:

[hemi nick]

Wow those Mustang dynos sure are heartbreakers! Should be intresting to see our results when we get on the DynoJet.


Why would you wanna switch dynos? A mustang dyno is your best tool for tuning..The guys here on this forum won't be impressed when you put up bigger numbers..You are not gonna learn anything about your vechicle improvements by switching to a different dyno. stay with the mustang dyno my friend....(that way you can compare your sheet with mine:thumbs_u:)

[pbmgoat]

The tuning is all done, and it was done on the Mustang dyno. Were just going to do a pull or two on the DynoJet to get more realistic numbers. Do you have any pics of the one way check valve for the PCV system?

[hemi nick]

The tuning is all done, and it was done on the Mustang dyno. Were just going to do a pull or two on the DynoJet to get more realistic numbers. Do you have any pics of the one way check valve for the PCV system?

Don't have pics to show you but Vortech uses one on there kits, any performance shop would have these lying around... As for the dynos, I also have been a little curious as what the difference in numbers from one type of dyno to the other would be...But in the end, it's the reading from the mustang dyno that (i.m.o:)) is the "more realistic number"....:beerchug:

[Flmango1832]

Don't get me wrong i wanted the car to be tuned via a mustang dyno for a better tune but for bragging and whatnot i'm going to see what she can pull on a dynojet. I'll def. look into getting a catch can and check valve soon just need the pocket book to cool down a little bit lol. Oil issue has been solved :banana:. As far as the car goes I know she falls off quite a bit after 5k rpms but the midrange power and tq is very useful and fun for street driving. The power hits like a truck all at once unlike where it came in linearly when i was N/A. Another cool thing about the turbo is that you can hear exactly when the boost is about to hit from the turbo spoolin

[hemi nick]

Don't get me wrong i wanted the car to be tuned via a mustang dyno for a better tune but for bragging and whatnot i'm going to see what she can pull on a dynojet. I'll def. look into getting a catch can and check valve soon just need the pocket book to cool down a little bit lol. Oil issue has been solved :banana:. As far as the car goes I know she falls off quite a bit after 5k rpms but the midrange power and tq is very useful and fun for street driving. The power hits like a truck all at once unlike where it came in linearly when i was N/A. Another cool thing about the turbo is that you can hear exactly when the boost is about to hit from the turbo spoolin
I here ya on the number thing, my car is only in the 500's, but i know it pulls harder than some 600+ I been in....Makes me wanna go to their dyno just to shut them up with their inflated numbers. But I found that seeing them in my rearview works just as good. The check valve is really not expensive at all, don't know where you can get one but if you do a google search I'm sure you'll find something...B.T.W. I know that spoolin feeling(check out my profile album:wink:)....

[Tim@NCTSLLC]

I'll def. look into getting a catch can and check valve soon just need the pocket book to cool down a little bit lol. Oil issue has been solved :banana:. As far as the car goes I know she falls off quite a bit after 5k rpms but the midrange power and tq is very useful and fun for street driving. The power hits like a truck all at once unlike where it came in linearly when i was N/A. Another cool thing about the turbo is that you can hear exactly when the boost is about to hit from the turbo spoolin

Sounds like you are getting it dialed in. Regarding a check valve, why? The PCV is a check valve and will close whenever the manifold is not in a vacuum state. We route the crankcase breather back to the inlet side of the turbo, so the crankcase always sees at least some vacuum as it was originally designed to do. The only time you have a problem is when BOTH the PCV line and the crankcase breather line can see positive pressure. Yours is designed to prevent that from happening. It is not needed. The only place you can install a catch can is on the crankcase line. If you install one on the PCV line then you will have to install a check valve between the can and the manifold or you will build pressure in the can and possibly rupture it as it is not going to be designed to hold pressure and will likely become a boost leak.

Turbo chargers do not have positive shaft seals, so there will always be a slight amount of residual oil in the intake tract. Once all your lines get cleared out from the initial oil flooding when the pump was not running, as long as you only see a slight film residue of oil around a BOV, then you are fine. That slight amount of oil will also help keep your BOV from sticking as it will lubricate the piston and seals in it. Even a factory air box will suck in a slight amount of residual oil from the crankcase, so it is not uncommon.