OBDII Not Ready HELP!! (Cant Pass Inspection)

[c4m]

Hey guys I'm having an issue with my 2005 300c AWD with 45,000miles. I recently took my car to NJ State inspection and failed for OBD Not Ready. I have a diablo predator with a 93 octane tune and had gotten the inspection done with my tune on. As soon as I failed I automatically figured it was the predator tune. So I went back to stock and went to inspection again but I still ended up failing. At this point I am still running with my tune off and figured maybe I needed a full drive cycle untill the OBD becomes ready. Searching around on the board I found that if you wait 15 seconds with the key position to on if the CEL blinks it means OBD is not ready. I've driven at this point over 300 miles and my OBD is still not becoming ready. My next step is simply to take it in to the dealer, but being an 05 with 45,000 miles im sure none of this will be covered under warranty. Before I do this I wanted to get some help, advice, or suggestions from my fellow LX members. HELP! Any info is much appreciated and thanks in advance.

[dpshook]

check the fuse for the power. I dont know which on it its. also have you tried to unplug the battery and let it reset?

[c4m]

Sorry I forgot to leave that out. I actually did leave my battery unplugged overnight and reconnected in the morning to do a "full reset" of everything.

[PowerWagon896]

Sorry I forgot to leave that out. I actually did leave my battery unplugged overnight and reconnected in the morning to do a "full reset" of everything.


DO NOT DO THAT!

Everytime you do a reset it will reset the not ready condition.:blam:

[dudeiwin86]

yea dude.
you have to drive like 50 miles on the car to get it to learn read all the sensors.

if you reset anything it will give NOT ready.
if you wrote a tune, or went back to stock.. NOT ready, it starts over.

go drive for a while, do 75 mph in 5th gear
then do traffic, or light to light
different types of driving finish it faster.

check with the Key to see if the CEL blinks, if it doesnt, then go get inspected.

[c4m]

After failing the second time for not ready I decided to do this. As I said earlier I've driven over 300 miles since unplugging the battery. I mean just continuing driving may resolve the issue but I guess only time will tell. But I would think 300 miles should be sufficient for the system to become ready, but I can be wrong..

[PaCharger]

took me 3 key cycles getting to temps, about 18 miles.

[PaCharger]

do you have the temp code turned off in your tune? o2 sensors? give us some other details....

[Carfinish]

read this ... should help you a lot

http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?p=2058431#post2058431

[c4m]

I did not make any other changes with the predator besides the 93 octane tune and the typical quick adjust settings. And again about 300 miles ago I went back to my original backup so the car is now back to stock.

[Hemi31]

Do you have a colder T-stat?If the car does not maintain 167*and above for the entire test cycle it will not test for ready status.I know most people have 180* T-stats but if it's cold out then it is possible not to maintain 167*+.Also you need to maintain highway speeds for some distance.I would bet your Thermostat is the culprit.....also you didn't mention if you had an engine light,if you do it's an instant fail.

[c4m]

I have not changed out the T-Stat. I bought this certified used from the dealer so it is possible that the previous owner changed it. But I have no way of knowing. I do get the "coolant not reached optimum temperature CEL" (I forget the code number) from time to time that I simply clear with my diablo. But I dont know if this means anything.

[Hemi31]

p0128?That would be the t-stat.If the temp needle is not on the center line or above on the highway you have an aftermarket t-stat.If it's about a 1/4" off to the left of center you might have a 170* and you'll never get to ready without really working at it.

[c4m]

Yes its the p0128. With the colder weather it does take a little while but it does eventually get to the middle line or at least very close to it.

[Hemi31]

Easiest thing for you do do is go buy a stock t-stat,put it in,go drive 100 miles and pass inspection.You can put the cooler t-stat back in for the summer.

[c4m]

Ok, I will try that. Is there any way to verify 100% if it is a cooler t-stat or not?

[Hemi31]

Only if you know someone with a starscan or starmobile to ride around with you and watch for test readiness.If you have an EVIC you can monitor exact engine temp on the screen.

[c4m]

Ok thanks for the great info. I will monitor the temps, and see if I can get a proper cycle in and see if I can get it to go into a ready state. If not I will try to replace the T-stat and see if that makes a difference.

[PowerWagon896]

Ok, I will try that. Is there any way to verify 100% if it is a cooler t-stat or not?

Generaly, a stock 206*F TSTAT will bring the needle up to 12 o'clock on the OEM temperature gauge. (straight up center mark)

If it goes to or slightly past the 1st mark (11 o'clock) to the left of 12 o'clock, it is probably a 180*ish TSTAT.

If it does not reach that 11 o'clock mark it will probably not reach optimum temperature & will not re set your OBDII.

A cheaper alternative to the $28 OEM TSTAT is a 4128 from AutoZone. That is a 185*F TSTAT & should reset your OBDII.

[PowerWagon896]

Generaly, a stock 206*F TSTAT will bring the needle up to 12 o'clock on the OEM temperature gauge. (straight up center mark)

If it goes to or slightly past the 1st mark (11 o'clock) to the left of 12 o'clock, it is probably a 180*ish TSTAT.

If it does not reach that 11 o'clock mark it will probably not reach optimum temperature & will not re set your OBDII.

A cheaper alternative to the $28 OEM TSTAT is a 4128 from AutoZone. That is a 185*F TSTAT & should reset your OBDII.

BTW: Here's a link to a TSTAT change out video.

http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=32989

[Hemi31]

A cheaper alternative to the $28 OEM is a 4128 from AutoZone. That is a 185*F TSTAT & should reset your OBDII.just an FYI Dan,I have a 4128 and fought to keep it above 167* in colder temps to hit ready.The only guarantee is stock.

[PowerWagon896]

just an FYI Dan,I have a 4128 and fought to keep it above 167* in colder temps to hit ready.The only guarantee is stock.

That sounds like the AutoZone 4127, (176*F) you sure that's not what you have?

I have only had a TSTAT code 1 time in 3 years W/the 4128 while the 4127 acted as you discribe.

Yes the OEM would be a sure thing.

Maybe someone near him has 1 he can borrow.

[c4m]

Thanks for the link, I've already started researching doing the swap out. The only odd thing is that I know for sure that after driving for a while I am able to reach or get pretty close to the half way mark on the temperature gauge. Would'nt this make the temperature above that 167* mark? Therefore it should be running the readiness check. But than again I guess there is no 100% way to tell if it is without a starscan tool...

[Hemi31]

That sounds like the AutoZone 4127, (176*F) you sure that's not what you have?

I have only had a TSTAT code 1 time in 3 years W/the 4128 while the 4127 acted as you discribe.

Yes the OEM would be a sure thing.

Maybe someone near him has 1 he can borrow.No....it's a 4128....it's only a month old,I know that cause I had to buy it in Utah on the way home.....it was 2 weeks old when I had to pass inspection.
Oh.....I never said I was throwing codes......I said it was difficult to keep it over 167* last month to get to OBDII ready status.

[PowerWagon896]

Thanks for the link, I've already started researching doing the swap out. The only odd thing is that I know for sure that after driving for a while I am able to reach or get pretty close to the half way mark on the temperature gauge. Would'nt this make the temperature above that 167* mark? Therefore it should be running the readiness check. But than again I guess there is no 100% way to tell if it is without a starscan tool...

As I said, the 11 o'clock mark is just about 180*F so if you are getting near straight up 12 o'clock on the OEM gauge, it should be getting warm enough to re-set. How long does it take to get there?

Are there any codes when you do a diagnostics check W/the Predator?

If there is a dealer around that you trust to not to puts the screws to ya, you might want to have the Starscan hooked up to it.

[c4m]

How long I guess it depends on how cold of a day it is or what time of day it is. Temperature around here has been any where from 20*F-40*F. I would say maybe 15 minutes of highway driving to get up to temperature.

No codes when I run the diagnostics on the predator.

And my next step is to take it to a dealer but I haven't had to much experience with the ones in the area.

[PowerWagon896]

How long I guess it depends on how cold of a day it is or what time of day it is. Temperature around here has been any where from 20*F-40*F. I would say maybe 15 minutes of highway driving to get up to temperature.

No codes when I run the diagnostics on the predator.

And my next step is to take it to a dealer but I haven't had to much experience with the ones in the area.

Stop & go city driving might get you "ready" quicker.

15 minutes sounds a bit long, but W/no codes, I can't put my finger on anything.

Is there any sort of fan mod in place? If there is & it is operating @ a low temperature that might slow things down.

Find someone W/a Starscan if it doesn't work itself out.

[c4m]

Sounds Good thanks again for all the help guys. Ill be trying a number of things and will update the thread. If anyone else has further input it would be much appreciated.

* and nope no fan mods.