Changing your oil for first-timers *

[Displaced Hokie]

For those that have yet to change their oil for the first time. I know that I like to know what to expect before doing a job, and I couldn't find any photos anywhere, so here you go (for those that are interested)...

First, get her up in the air. I use the poly Rhino Ramps. Strong, and no air-dam contact issues.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y188/patlucado/a3c4397c.jpg
This is the belly pan you have to remove. I thought it was smaller, but it covers the whole bottom of the engine. 10mm will remove the four bolts.



http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y188/patlucado/b5677202.jpg
Pan removed.




http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y188/patlucado/52630f7c.jpg
Drain plug location. I didn't install a Fumoto valve (do a search) this time, but I will the next. I wanted to see how this looked before doing so. No problem if the valve sticks out, as the plug is almost horizontal. 13mm wrench.

WARNING - When you remove the plug, the oil will shoot out a foot or more. Put the drain pan way back! Yet another reason a Fumoto valve and hose is so cool.




http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y188/patlucado/fb0387a7.jpg
Oil filter location.




http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y188/patlucado/6d025057.jpg
Removing filter. Note: See the orange Wal-Mart special filter wrench I have. Fits great, but it WILL NOT remove the tight stock filter. The socket square rounded off! Luckily, I had a metal one that I use on my truck. The metal one got it off, but it was tight. My metal filter wrench said "Cal-Van 791"


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y188/patlucado/f30a8542.jpg
Oil filter manifold




http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y188/patlucado/e38e2836.jpg
Here was the fun part. After all was finished I was putting the belly pan back on. The last bolt would not thread. Well guess what, the clip thingy that the bolt threads into was gone. I felt into the hole and it was up in the crossmember! Figuring I must have knocked it up in there when removing the pan I fished it out with my magnet. Well, it was broken! I'll replace it at next change. I held it in place with my finger and installed that bolt. Luckily there was enough "tab" left to keep it from spinning. Great job Chrysler! These clips are really fitting to a $30,000+ vehicle!

Overall, quick job. Given the filter orientation, you can fill it before installing it. That's cool.

I did find a lot of this information on what wrench sizes to use, how much oil to use, and that the filter would be tight via other posts on this forum. Thanks to all that contributed that!

Pat

[Tommy T.]

Good thread. That oil filter sure is a biotch to remove the first time around. I tried it today for the first time on my Dodge Ram and that factory-installed filter was even worse than the Magnum's.

I also posted some pictures for anyone interested:

http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=7909

-- Tommy

[LonghornSpencer]

Is it the same size bolts for the 3.5 SXT? I am changing the oil today and like you just want to know what I'm getting into. Thanks Hokie....Hook 'Em Horns

[maneval69]

When you pull the drain plug make sure the catch pan is offset to the rear of the car as much as it can and still cover directly under the plug. The oil comes out with some velocity. I had my pan centered under the plug (i am use to a plug that points down not sideways) and when I pulled it the stream of oil cleared the pan and straight on the floor. I moved the pan to intersect the stream but the speed of the fluid was enough to wash over the rim and even- even more oil on the ground.

Just something to be aware of. It will save clean-up time.
I will get a Fumoto valve for my Chargers first oil change.

[hand-badge-1176]

where do i get a Fumoto Valve for my Magnum, thank you..

[Nightshade]

http://www.fumotovalve.com/

Don't know what size would work though.. Great idea though..


where do i get a Fumoto Valve for my Magnum, thank you..

[quarky42]

When putting that bottom "scuff pad" or catch pan back on, try putting the screws in loose by hand first. In other words, just hand thread them until they grab and don't over tighten. This way the pan can be shifted slightly back and forth so you get all the screws in, including the last one. Hope this helps.

Edit: I think the Fumoto F106 and F106N are the oil valves that can be used to replace the drain plug if you wish. I have not tested this yet, but have ordered one already per a search in the forums.

[dlyle]

Hokie, thanks for taking the time to do this! We appreciate it.

[BrilliantBlackHemi]

I use those Cal-Van metal oil filter wrenches too. The factory installed filters are always difficult to remove, but usually come off with the Cal-Van, just requires a lot of torque. This is way better than the "poke a hole in it with a screwdriver" method for sure. The belly cover clips require a gentle touch and no overtightening. They should have threaded holes in the sheet metal for that thing. Cheap clips! Arrgh.

Good write up. A nice addition to the knowledgebase.

[quarky42]

I was able to get the stock oil filter off with a standard strap oil wrench. The trick for me was figuring out how to put the handle of the strap wrench over the tubing/piping that is in the way, thus allowing you to keep the strap and handle horizontal relative to eachother. (or keep the strap unbent).

To the right (towards passenger side) of the oil filter is an obstruction. I haven't looked closely at it as I was focused on the job at hand. I believe it is some sort of tubing or piping and a cross member of some sort possible (this from memory).

You put the strap end of the oil filter wrench up to the right of this obstruction and slip the strap through a gap above this obstruction towards the oil filter. With your left hand you'll pull the strap through this gap and slip the strap over the oil filter. This leaves the handle pointing towards the passenger side of the car. Further more, the handle is almost horizontal or flat with the strap so you can get the most leverage! Also, you have pleanty of room to keep your right hand on the handle and your left hand up along the strap with the oil filter. I squeeze with my left hand to hold the strap in place, give the handle a good sturdy pull turning to the left to loosen the oil filter.

The left hand in place helps the strap get a good bite on the oil filter and the right hand lets you put a little muscle into it.


I didn't have a different style of wrench available, so the strap was a must for me. Once I figured out this position to get it in up there, removing the old oil filter and putting on the new one was a breeze.

MAKE SURE YOU ARE BEING SAFE TO INCLUDE BUT NOT LIMITED TO:
1. Car in Park. Parking brake FULLY engaged.
2. Chalk the wheels with 2x4"s or preferrably wheel chalks.
3. ALWAYS use jack stands and make sure they are properly placed! I usually have two jackstands in place. The first jack stand holds the weight while the second jack stand just behind it is set at the next lower height and is in place as a "just in case".

I have had relatives and friends almost kill themselves because they were working on their car and were being STUPID about jack stands (or lack of them) and getting under their multi-ton vehicles. One of them suffered a broken collarbone which could have been a LOT worse! Be careful! Use yer noggins! *grin*

[sugar-tj]

thanks hokie, great job!! i learned something new,... i never heard of that ''fumotovalve'' gotta get me one of them.....

[1MRMOPAR]

Hi
I know this sounds stupid, but what is this Fumoto valve that you are talking about. I have always changed the oil in my vehicles prior to my Magnum R/T and I have never heard of this.
Can someone take the time and educate me?

[Alfa Charger]

Hi
I know this sounds stupid, but what is this Fumoto valve that you are talking about. I have always changed the oil in my vehicles prior to my Magnum R/T and I have never heard of this.
Can someone take the time and educate me?

Not a stupid question. Here's the info.

http://www.fumotovalve.com/

Dave

[rpg]

Nice thread! Is there room under the belly pan to fit a long (Mobil One M1-301) filter on a 5.7 liter engine? I think the M1-301 is almost three inches longer than the stock filter.

[DA X 6]

I think there is room for a longer filter- the stock filter is WAY up there, so 3" longer shouldn't be an issue.

As to the advisability of putting a larger filter on, I'm not qualified to comment.

[ccl088]

Anybody tried the Fram PH8A instead of the Fram PH16.Same filter but the PH8A is longer.Will the PH8A fit instead of the PH16 that it calls for since it's longer?

[frzn]

Remember...5w-20 unless the oil cap otherwise and save your receits as proof you change the oil.I havnt seen Mopar push the issue...but the Benz guys are a bunch of tight azz's and may challenge it.....cover your butts.

[Buck70]

When filling with the new oil, always pull the breather tube from the airbox end and plug/elevate it. When you put a funnel in the filler neck and dump oil in it, oil can/will push up into the tube and run into your airbox/CA tube. Poor design on the filler neck/vent tube combo, makes an oily mess of your air filter on the inside.
DB

[DakotaDave]

Remember...5w-20 unless the oil cap otherwise and save your receits as proof you change the oil.I havnt seen Mopar push the issue...but the Benz guys are a bunch of tight azz's and may challenge it.....cover your butts.
My cap says 10W-30.

[lafrad]

Anybody tried the Fram PH8A instead of the Fram PH16.Same filter but the PH8A is longer.Will the PH8A fit instead of the PH16 that it calls for since it's longer?

I wouldn't use fram. (for reasons that start flame wars, so I will leave it at that)

yes, the longer filters fit well.
I am running the Motorcraft FL-1A filter (which is an inch or two longer than stock mopar). Needs an extra 1/4-1/2 quart of oil in the engine, but it has MUCH more filter capacity (read: catches dirt for a longer period of time).

[lafrad]

I wouldn't use fram. (for reasons that start flame wars, so I will leave it at that)

yes, the longer filters fit well.
I am running the Motorcraft FL-1A filter (which is an inch or two longer than stock mopar). Needs an extra 1/4-1/2 quart of oil in the engine, but it has MUCH more filter capacity (read: catches dirt for a longer period of time).


Oh.. and you can get the Oil and Filter all from Wally-World (wal-mart) in one trip... much cheaper that way.

[Bubba's Dragon]

N-Series valve(with Nipple to accept hose) is not recommended for passenger cars with low ground clearance.

I guess no valve for my Magnum, but for you folks with normal height rides I might get one. But I dont like the idea of it popping open and all my oil gone gone gone!

[joseph]

I use K&N oil filters, they are HP, don't drain back, and have a 1 inch nut welded at the end of it, making it real easy to put on and remove.
This is the least expensive place I've found so far, only $8.50 http://www.ajusa.com/cgi-bin/knfilters/details?part_num=HP-2004&products=1&session_id=af1224f430a0042efcf4c7b722e6e0a8

[havoc1]

Thank goodness I found this--I thought maybe I was going crazy. I've done hundreds of oil changes on dozens of vehicles or engines, and I've NEVER had as much trouble getting a filter off as I have on my Magnum. They must have had a gorilla crank that thing on there at the factory before they dropped the engine in!

I started off with the mark I mod 0 hand, tried a set of tongs that I've used on stubborn filters in the past, moved to a metal cup-style socket adaptor (stripped/slipped), then a chain-link strap wrench and an open end wrench (can't get them in there to use properly). NO LUCK! The damned thing is all munged up and the clearances really stink. I gave up for the night and I'll probably go out there in the morning and either hammer a screwdriver through it or get that cup-style wrench back out and drill holes in it for self-starting sheet-metal screws. Unbelievable!

I can't believe a 15-minute job has taken all afternoon! Anyone got any other wild ideas?

[fnkychkn]

a good quality metal cup is what i use. never a problem.

btw, welcome to LXforums. glad you could join us. :)

[oldschool]

Thank goodness I found this--I thought maybe I was going crazy. I've done hundreds of oil changes on dozens of vehicles or engines, and I've NEVER had as much trouble getting a filter off as I have on my Magnum. They must have had a gorilla crank that thing on there at the factory before they dropped the engine in!

I started off with the mark I mod 0 hand, tried a set of tongs that I've used on stubborn filters in the past, moved to a metal cup-style socket adaptor (stripped/slipped), then a chain-link strap wrench and an open end wrench (can't get them in there to use properly). NO LUCK! The damned thing is all munged up and the clearances really stink. I gave up for the night and I'll probably go out there in the morning and either hammer a screwdriver through it or get that cup-style wrench back out and drill holes in it for self-starting sheet-metal screws. Unbelievable!

I can't believe a 15-minute job has taken all afternoon! Anyone got any other wild ideas?


Yes the o/c are a little quirky but the car will be just fine for you. Give it a little time and put some more miles on her and you will forget about your misadventures getting the first filter off. I use a metal cup like fnky mentioned with a long adjustable neck wrench and it gives me the room to remove a stubborn filter quick. It's all about just having the right tool for the job.

:welxcome: :welxcome: :welxcome:

oldschool

[havoc1]

This is going to sound overly n00bish but...that damned filter isn't reverse threaded or something stupid like that is it? Don't think I've ever done one that was, but this would of course be the first... :evil:

[fnkychkn]

This is going to sound overly n00bish but...that damned filter isn't reverse threaded or something stupid like that is it? Don't think I've ever done one that was, but this would of course be the first... :evil:
lefty loosy, righty tighty. :)

[havoc1]

LOL, sure enough, the tool below is what I was finally able to break it loose with, using a 1/2" socket! I was dumbfounded when I failed to budge it with one of those cup/cruncher attachments. I wish I'd had a torque wrench to check it, because it was on there amazingly tight. Unbelievable!
http://ec2.images-amazon.com/images/P/B000I0XYYG.01-AXPVI82I57KZA._AA280_SCLZZZZZZZ_V60747633_.jpg

[Dupie24]

My cap says 10W-30.
Then you don't have a 5.7L Hemi!:Na_Na_Na_Na: Just kidding, but really, only the 5.7 has the 5/20w spec, its for the MDS.:beerchug:
BTW, I ordered one of the fumoto valves, looks like the way to go.

[oldschool]

Then you don't have a 5.7L Hemi!:Na_Na_Na_Na: Just kidding, but really, only the 5.7 has the 5/20w spec, its for the MDS.:beerchug:
BTW, I ordered one of the fumoto valves, looks like the way to go.

I love mine. I installed it but haven't used it to drain just yet but I can't wait!

oldschool

[Apache]

Ok, got a question for you. After draining the oil and replacing the filter. How do you measure the amount of oil to put in the engine, due to the fact of no "Dipstick"? Thanks

Ok, after further review. So just add a total of 7qts on a 5.7L Hemi?

[LowGo]

Ok, got a question for you. After draining the oil and replacing the filter. How do you measure the amount of oil to put in the engine, due to the fact of no "Dipstick"? Thanks

Ok, after further review. So just add a total of 7qts on a 5.7L Hemi?

Hmmm... mine doesn't have a transmission dipstick, but it definitely has an oil dipstick! My guess is that yours does too.

[Apache]

D'OH, I guess I had a blonde moment, I guess I wanted to refer the transmission. Thanks for reminding me to think before I speak.

[Dupie24]

D'OH, I guess I had a blonde moment, I guess I wanted to refer the transmission. Thanks for reminding me to think before I speak.
Trans fluid level is checked with a special dipstick and a starscan. You fill the trans and match the level on the dipstick with the temp of the trans fluid, or something like that. Maybe some other way around it, not sure.

[Mr.PEZO]

Another thing to use in place of jack stand are RAMPS.......

[Mr.PEZO]

I want to add one more thing, I found on a post here and dont remember where it is but the key thing in that post was. To take off that rubber hose that is on the back of your stock air box because oil will drain into it when you put the oil back into the car. Sure enough I checked mine yesterday and oil had came thru there and on the air filter. So always remove the ? breather tube? so oil doesnt get on your air filter. And try a sandwich bag over the oil filter to catch the oil, and use rubber gloves Walgreens has them. Or get them from a hospital if you know someone!

[punkey71]

After reading about all the problems folks were having removing the factory oil filter, I brought my gun(s) to a knife fight. I used an all metal 93/15 filter wrench with 12" entension and 18" breaker bar. Came off like butter....it should!!!:mrgreen:

Replaced my factory fill at 1500 miles with M1 5-20 and M1 Extended Life filter (M1-204). I might change to a Wix or Napa Gold filter (same thing I'm told). I plan on changing again at 5,000 on the ODO and every 5,000 thereafter.....5K, 10K, 15K etc....somewhere in between the normal and severe use. As a bonus, it's easy to remember when to change the oil.

Bye,
Harold

[higg13001]

Once upon a time... I worked in one of those quick oil change places. We literally did hundreds of oil changes. I remember a few that none of the usual filter wrenches, bands, etc. didn't work. They were the factory installed filters. After the oil filter was completely crushed from unsuccessful attempts to remove it, we resorted to driving a large screwdriver through the center and cranking it off. (Problem was, back then certain Rice-Burners had a long tube into the center of the filter acting as a permanent anti-drainback device.) I recently changed the oil in my Charger with no problem. I hope nobody has to resort to such drastic measures. Good luck! :racing:

[bclarke22]

Hi all,

I am not a mechanic by any stretch...so don't laugh at my question please :)

I would like to change my own oil -- as of now I do not have jackstands or ramps -- which are better or easier to use?

Now for the question I have: When I get my oil changed at the dealer I notice they raise my car on a lift; so the car is level (I assume). So if I do this at home, I'd have to use ramps or a jackstand to raise the car to get underneath; the car will be angled (meaning front of car is higher than the rear of the car). Do I have to lower the car back to the ground (level) to ensure all of the oil has drained? Or does it drain "better" with the front of the car higher than the rear?

I hope that is not a really stupid question.

Thanks in advance for your reply.

-Bob

[Arch Stanton]

Ramps are definitely easier for oil changes. Jack and stands are good to have though if you need to remove the wheels or want to raise the entire car at once.

Don't worry about the car sitting level, the drain plug is in the back of the sump anyway. Even if it wasn't, a couple ounces of old oil in with 7 quarts of new isn't going to affect anything.

And do yourself a favor and get a Fumoto (http://www.fumotovalve.com/) valve. Get the one with a nipple, then get a short piece of clear tubing from the hardware store and every oil change after this one will be a breeze. And apparently a YM4 promotion code will still get you 10% off.

[Token]

Good advice Arch.

[Dupie24]

And do yourself a favor and get a Fumoto (http://www.fumotovalve.com/) valve. Get the one with a nipple, then get a short piece of clear tubing from the hardware store and every oil change after this one will be a breeze. And apparently a YM4 promotion code will still get you 10% off.
I put a fumoto valve on ours, makes oil changes very easy, only down side is it takes much longer for the oil to drain from the fumoto valve. Patience is a virtue!

[whall]

After reading all the stuff on here - I had braced myself for a very hard first oil change on my SXT. As it hit 2000 miles I decided to take the plunge so to speak.

Much to my surprise, it was danged easy and the filter is by far easier to get to and work with than several other vehicles I have owned. I already had a few great wrenches in stock from old cars that pulled that factory filter with ease. The fact that both the plug and filter aren't far back on the engine, and having the filter mounting perfectly vertical is a big plus.

I think the big plastic cover under the engine is an interesting feature that I had never encountered before. I can see those getting permanently removed by people as time goes on.

[Jweezy]

I may change my oil tonight...but I saw the guy that changed my oil last time, but the filter on with his hands...I should be able to take it off with my hands also right?

Also when taking off the filter will there be alot of mess?

-Justin

[DA X 6]

Also when taking off the filter will there be alot of mess?

It'll drip until you get it fully removed- I recommend waiting to pull the filter until the drain plug has stopped dripping so you can reposition the catch pan under the filter.

[whall]

I may change my oil tonight...but I saw the guy that changed my oil last time, but the filter on with his hands...I should be able to take it off with my hands also right?

Also when taking off the filter will there be alot of mess?

-Justin

um...no. They usually need a little bump with a wrench.

[Jweezy]

My car is low...someone in my neighbor hood said I could use his Ramps...but it seems they are a at to much of a incline...do they have low car ramps?

lol

I could also use his jacks...(I dont have any). those are kinda of a pain, and I would feel safer with a ramp.

-Justin

PS. Here is how low it is...

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c166/vipergtsr4life1985/PDRM3611.jpg

[Dupie24]

My car is low...someone in my neighbor hood said I could use his Ramps...but it seems they are a at to much of a incline...do they have low car ramps?

lol

I could also use his jacks...(I dont have any). those are kinda of a pain, and I would feel safer with a ramp.

-Justin

PS. Here is how low it is...

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c166/vipergtsr4life1985/PDRM3611.jpg
No way your crawling under that without getting it up in the air! Ride looks awesome!

[feros]

...do they have low car ramps?
yes they do, but you can allways use some wood for ramps onto the ramps. That is what I do.

[feros]

Is it the same size bolts for the 3.5 SXT?
Yes bolts are the same, same filter as the 5.7 too

[Hal'sMag]

I did mine for the first time ub 20 years. Due to the specialty oil. it seemed to make sence,

I put one ramp on the sidewalk, and one one the road to gain a few much needed inches.

Then I used a floor jack and bumper jack to give me a few more.

Whata a PIta.

Building my own ramp would have been better, but more cumbersome.

I can't figure how slammed cars even get up a ramp.

[NYC_SRT8]

What is the torque specs for the drain plug?

[FleshWound]

What is the torque specs for the drain plug?

TORQUES
Oil Drain Plug.....20 ft-lbs
Transfer case
Fill Plug.....22 ft-lbs
Drain Plug.....22 ft-lbs



I didn't read every post in this thread so excuse my laziness if it's been mentioned, that when installing your new filter you should coat the gasket (on the filter)with oil or grease to ensure a good seal and to facilitate removal

[LX HEMI]

Go Royal Purple!!!

[charginscott]

I always coat the gasket and threads with new clean oil.

Scott

[NYC_SRT8]

TORQUES
Oil Drain Plug.....20 ft-lbs
Transfer case
Fill Plug.....22 ft-lbs
Drain Plug.....22 ft-lbs



I didn't read every post in this thread so excuse my laziness if it's been mentioned, that when installing your new filter you should coat the gasket (on the filter)with oil or grease to ensure a good seal and to facilitate removal

Thanks FleshWound,

I'm trying something new with my next oil change. I will be using a longer oil filter. It's twice as long as the stock filter. I will take pics of both to show you guys the difference. What do you guys think of this?

[timbone]

dude put the filter on with his hands? he must have some hella torque goin on.. i'd be afraid of oil leaking out through the threads...

[teezy]

anyone know what size futomo valve to put on a 3.5 sxt?

[havoc1]

And do yourself a favor and get a Fumoto (http://www.fumotovalve.com/) valve.

I did a search and couldn't turn anything up. Is the proper Fumoto valve the F-101 (http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=78)? They list them by displacement, but the list of engines next to this part number skips over 5.7L.

By the way, it appears the 10% code is now F101N...according to my cart.

EDIT: Oops, did an external google search and it turned up a post with the answer. F106 (http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=F106N&CartID=1)! :roll:

[Dupie24]

dude put the filter on with his hands? he must have some hella torque goin on.. i'd be afraid of oil leaking out through the threads...
I own an auto repair shop, we do not tighten filters with a wrench, just seat the gasket and tighten down approx 3/4 to 1 1/2 turns more, just make sure its somewhat tight, they don't leak if tight enough and if tightened with oil filter wrench it will be a SOB to get off next oil change.

[Arch Stanton]

I did a search and couldn't turn anything up. Is the proper Fumoto valve the F-101 (http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=78)? They list them by displacement, but the list of engines next to this part number skips over 5.7L.

By the way, it appears the 10% code is now F101N...according to my cart.

EDIT: Oops, did an external google search and it turned up a post with the answer. F106 (http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=F106N&CartID=1)! :roll:
That's the one. :beerchug:



And I usually just hand tighten my filters too. I crank them about as hard as I can with my bare hand and I've never had a problem with them leaking or getting them off either.

[havoc1]

Indeed. I've never used a wrench to put a filter on, and in 15+ years of home wrenching, I've never had an oil leak at the filter! ;-)

[convbcuda]

My method of changing the fuel filter on my 06 Ram Mega Cab CTD.

1. Put drain pan under the drain tube.
2. Open the drain valve. Wait for it to stop draining.
3. Unscrew the cap.
4. Remove the old filter and O Ring.
5. Install new filter and O Ring.
6. Put the cap back on.
7. Briefly click the key and leave it in the on position to fill the filter.
8. Check for leaks.
9. RUN BACK TO THE CAB AND SHUT OFF THE KEY BECAUSE YOU FORGOT TO CLOSE THE DRAIN VALVE AND YOU NOW HAVE DIESEL SPEWING EVERYWHERE ON THE GROUND.
10. Close the drain valve.
11. Fill the filter canister with the key on.
12. Start the truck and check for leaks again.
13. Sit back and realize that just like every oil change, I once again managed to make a mess, but at least this time it was on the street since the truck doesn't fit in the garage.

[CJ7VFR]

we do not tighten filters with a wrench, just seat the gasket and tighten down approx 3/4 to 1 1/2 turns more,

This is absolute the CORRECT thing to do when installing oil filters.

Once the filter gasket makes contact with the metal housing, you should
only tighten the filter another 3/4 of a turn or so. Doing it by hand, you are
not going to over tighten the filter. If you use a wrench on it to put it
on, you can cause the filter gasket to distort, and actually cause a leak.

Installing the filter as tight as you can get it by hand will get you the
3/4 of a turn or so you need.

I have been chaning my own oil for over 25 years, and my father taught
me this way back then. He said NEVER use a wrench to tighten an oil
filter. Always tighten it by hand. As a matter of fact, I always tighten
my filters with my left hand. I am right handed, and my left hand is not
quite as strong as my right, so I use my left hand just for the hell of it.

In all those years, on all those different cars (including my wifes cars
also) I have NEVER had a filter leak.

And you should always apply some new, clean oil to the filter gasket
before you put the filter on.

Also, ALWAYS check the metal filter housing before you put on a new
filter to make sure the old filters rubber gasket did not come out of the
old filter, and stick to the housing. If it did, which can happen, and
you install the new filter over top of the old gasket, you WILL have
a major leak! Always, always, always check for this! It takes literally
2 seconds, and can save your car.

Jim

[convbcuda]

Dodge hired Ah-nold to install the factory oil filter on my Ram. They gave him a long breaker bar, too.

[convbcuda]

Also, ALWAYS check the metal filter housing before you put on a new
filter to make sure the old filters rubber gasket did not come out of the
old filter, and stick to the housing. If it did, which can happen, and
you install the new filter over top of the old gasket, you WILL have
a major leak! Always, always, always check for this! It takes literally
2 seconds, and can save your car.

Jim

You don't have to worry about saving your car. You'll notice this one right away. This is another fun thing I did once on our Pacifica. I actually had a clean oil change thanks to the Fumoto valve, which is rare.

Then I started it up to look for leaks, and I had a gusher come out the oil filter. Yep, 1 gasket good, 2 gaskets bad.

[Rottyfan]

I changed my oil for the first time a few days ago and the filter was also stuck on there pretty good. The only tool I had was one of those rubber strap wrenches and I realized right away that it wasn't going to get the job done.

I remembered I had a really good oil filter wrench that I bought ~15 years ago because the oil filter on my 91 Ford Probe was up in a real tight spot. Well I still have the wrench, but it was too small for the Magnum's filter. I ran over to NAPA picked up a bigger one:

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r37/rottyfan/CIMG4634.jpghttp://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r37/rottyfan/CIMG4635.jpg
http://www.lxforums.com/board/%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r37/rottyfan/CIMG4634.jpg%5B/IMG%5D
This filter wrench works like a champ. If you have 1/4" of movement, it will break the filter loose. It cost about $9 including tax and I highly recommend it.

I installed a Motorcraft FL-1A oil filter and used Mobil 1 5w-20. Also installed the Fumoto valve while I was at it.
http://www.lxforums.com/board/%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r37/rottyfan/CIMG4635.jpg%5B/IMG%5D

[Dupie24]

I installed a Motorcraft FL-1A oil filter and used Mobil 1 5w-20. Also installed the Fumoto valve while I was at it.
http://www.lxforums.com/board/%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r37/rottyfan/CIMG4635.jpg%5B/IMG%5D
FL1A?That filter works on the 5.7? I use a/c delco and its a PF13, much smaller filter than the FL1A, larger is better, right?

Dodge hired Ah-nold to install the factory oil filter on my Ram. They gave him a long breaker bar, too.
The factory filter on our car was extremely tight! The filter wrench actually crushed the filter before it let loose, yeah Ah-nold works there for sure!

[fnkychkn]

i use this style of oil filter wrench. i use it to remove AND install it. as per instructions on filter; one full turn after gasket contact. never leaks and always easy to remove using the same wrench. if you're going to buy one of these, make sure it's a metal one. the plastic ones are crap.

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p223/fnkychkn/posting%20pics/oilfilterwrench.jpg

[Scooby]

I have an 06 Charger with the 3.5 (I'm part of the "No it's not a hemi" group :doh:)
and I want to order a Fumoto valve before my next oil change.

Is it the F-106 for the 3.5 ???
and are you guys getting the nipple, or not ???
My car is lowered (I thought someone mentioned lowering makes a difference?)

It looks like the code YM4 still works for an extra discount !

I plan on just getting the Napa Gold filter that it calls for in the computer, but is there something that does a better job I would like to hear about it also ?

[Rottyfan]

FL1A?That filter works on the 5.7? I use a/c delco and its a PF13, much smaller filter than the FL1A, larger is better, right?

Yes, I think it's better -- more filter surface area and capacity. lafrad mentions earlier in this thread that he uses the FL1A filter and I thought it was a good idea so I went with it too. And since I plan on changing my oil every 3,000 miles, $3.99 is the right price.

[Rottyfan]

Is it the F-106 for the 3.5 ???
and are you guys getting the nipple, or not ???
My car is lowered (I thought someone mentioned lowering makes a difference?)

The Fumoto valve site should be able to tell you which valve will fit the 3.5. I went with the nipple because the oil shoots out from the side of the oil pan, not from the bottom. I'm going to stick the hose right into my oil catch container for less mess.

It only matters if your oil plug points straight down from the oil pan. On the 5.7 it goes in to the side of the oil pan so lowered cars are not affected.

[Scooby]

Is the FL1A a fram filter ?

I won't use Fram oil filters, I have spent to much money on my cars to cheap out on a inferior quaility filter $5 part.
(And I work for Honeywell/Allied signal = makers of Fram)
:doh:

[Stockman]

Maybe a silly question but where do you guys dispose of your used oil?

[Scooby]

Maybe a silly question but where do you guys dispose of your used oil?

I take it to the closest Checker Auto parts store, but any autozone, checker, pepboys, orielly, etc... will have a recycle thing to dump it in.

I dont actualy buy my oil there though, I buy it in the 5qt jugs at Walmart. (MUCH CHEAPER)
These jugs also make a "neat/clean" way of transporting the used oil back for the recycle.

[Dupie24]

Maybe a silly question but where do you guys dispose of your used oil?
I think in California its a law that if you sell oil you have to take in used oil for recycling, not sure though. Not sure how the markets and 7-11's get by without accepting used oil. Most all auto parts stores that sell oil will take your old oil.

[Rottyfan]

Is the FL1A a fram filter ?

I won't use Fram oil filters, I have spent to much money on my cars to cheap out on a inferior quaility filter $5 part.
(And I work for Honeywell/Allied signal = makers of Fram)
:doh:

Motorcraft

[convbcuda]

Jiffy Lube takes used oil, and that's the only reason to ever visit one. Our county dump also takes it.

[markus]

good bit of info!!

[LUVMYRT]

what size hose do you use on the nipple fumoto valve??:rock:

[jmckenzie]

great thread, thanks for putting pictures in also

[Mr_D]

I did my first oil change after taking it to the quik-change places. I've had enough of those monkeys working on my car.

I was struggling with the oil drain bolt for nearly an hour, figuring those monkeys must have used an impact wrench to put it back on and just didn't care. Then I looked at the direction I was turning it...

:picard:

[Plum Daytona 1329]

Just my 2 cents here but why risk putting after market filters on a 30,000 + car ?

Mopar filter belongs on a mopar product
Motorcraft belongs on a ford
A/C belongs on a gm product

Don,t risk engine damage just to save a few bucks on a walmart filter, use what belongs on it. Many years ago I put a hastings filter on a small block chevy because the store did not have the a/c filter. Oil pressure went from 55 psi at idle to 25 psi.

One last thing fill your filter with the new oil to the top before installing it (if filter is upright) helps get oil to the bearings faster after oil change. Bearing wear occurs at startup.

[moonstreaker]

I think in California its a law that if you sell oil you have to take in used oil for recycling, not sure though. Not sure how the markets and 7-11's get by without accepting used oil. Most all auto parts stores that sell oil will take your old oil.Same laws here in NJ. But even most auto parts stores don't follow the law.

Just my 2 cents here but why risk putting after market filters on a 30,000 + car ?

Mopar filter belongs on a mopar product
Motorcraft belongs on a ford
A/C belongs on a gm product

Don,t risk engine damage just to save a few bucks on a walmart filter, use what belongs on it. Many years ago I put a hastings filter on a small block chevy because the store did not have the a/c filter. Oil pressure went from 55 psi at idle to 25 psi.

One last thing fill your filter with the new oil to the top before installing it (if filter is upright) helps get oil to the bearings faster after oil change. Bearing wear occurs at startup.If I wanted a cheap oil filter I would use the Mopar filter. I only use Purolator PureOne filters.

[Plum Daytona 1329]

If I wanted a cheap oil filter I would use the Mopar filter. I only use Purolator PureOne filters.[/quote]

You mean the one that filters out the smallest crap and restricts flow to the bearings ( good choice )

Purolator Pure One (http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html#pl30001)

This is an interesting filter design made by Purolator. Most of the construction of the Pure One is the same as the Purolator Premium Plus. The big difference is the filter element itself. It has a dense paper/fiber filter element that can filter very small particles. The result of this is cleaner oil exiting the element, but more oil restriction. Purolator addressed this by adding more filter material (more and deeper pleats). After seeing one of these filters cut open, I am apprehensive about this filter. It seems to have so many pleats that it is almost a solid chunk of filter element. It seems like it would end up restricting the flow, more than anything. Purolator has plenty of data on the filtration abilities of this filter and I don't doubt it, but they have no flow data. Even so, I don't see any major problems with this filter. It also sports a silicone anti-drainback valve and a PTFE treated nitrile rubber gasket.

[oobxlr8r]

can somebody please edit the instructions since it is for first timers to include the fact that the oil shoots out of there like it has been trying to escape... and that a pan right under the nut will do no good... I found this out the hard way...

[Dupie24]

can somebody please edit the instructions since it is for first timers to include the fact that the oil shoots out of there like it has been trying to escape... and that a pan right under the nut will do no good... I found this out the hard way...

Very good point!!! Gotta give the oil about 12" at first, then it settles down after a while, keep an eye on the drain pan. :wink:

[Scooby]

Just a Budget Note!
Walmart now carries the "MOPAR" Brand oil filter = $4.97
:beerchug:

For this price I dont know why you would want to use anything else :modding:

[05infernomagnum]

Here in Oregon we just put the used oil out at the curb with our recycling.

[tedsweet]

I have to drive up on to a 2x4 with the front tires first to avoid hitting air dam on the ramps.

My car is low...someone in my neighbor hood said I could use his Ramps...but it seems they are a at to much of a incline...do they have low car ramps?

lol

I could also use his jacks...(I dont have any). those are kinda of a pain, and I would feel safer with a ramp.

-Justin

PS. Here is how low it is...

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c166/vipergtsr4life1985/PDRM3611.jpg

[tedsweet]

been changing my oil for 25 years, never used a wrench to put a filter on.

dude put the filter on with his hands? he must have some hella torque goin on.. i'd be afraid of oil leaking out through the threads...

[Samoan Tsunami]

You mean the one that filters out the smallest crap and restricts flow to the bearings ( good choice )

Purolator Pure One (http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html#pl30001)

This is an interesting filter design made by Purolator. Most of the construction of the Pure One is the same as the Purolator Premium Plus. The big difference is the filter element itself. It has a dense paper/fiber filter element that can filter very small particles. The result of this is cleaner oil exiting the element, but more oil restriction. Purolator addressed this by adding more filter material (more and deeper pleats). After seeing one of these filters cut open, I am apprehensive about this filter. It seems to have so many pleats that it is almost a solid chunk of filter element. It seems like it would end up restricting the flow, more than anything. Purolator has plenty of data on the filtration abilities of this filter and I don't doubt it, but they have no flow data. Even so, I don't see any major problems with this filter. It also sports a silicone anti-drainback valve and a PTFE treated nitrile rubber gasket.

how exactly does more filtering restrict flow to the bearings (within reason)? are the oil pumps in our cars THAT bad? or are the galley passages in the block that deficient that oiling to bearings is bad?

i know on the LD9 with gm, the 2.4L engine the #3 rod bearing was and is a problem due to lack of oiling, but it wasnt filter related it was the passages to bring the oil to the #3 was deficient.


theres a good amount of filters out there. i wouldnt say mopar is the only choice for our car. if it were, all companies would use it.

i get what you mean, with mopar car, mopar part...but brand loyalty only reaches so far. theres always improvements to be made.:thumbs_u:

Just my 2 cents here but why risk putting after market filters on a 30,000 + car ?

Mopar filter belongs on a mopar product
Motorcraft belongs on a ford
A/C belongs on a gm product

Don,t risk engine damage just to save a few bucks on a walmart filter, use what belongs on it. Many years ago I put a hastings filter on a small block chevy because the store did not have the a/c filter. Oil pressure went from 55 psi at idle to 25 psi.


from that study you posted, the outcome of "mopar filters" http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters.html

Mopar Filters (http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy-mopar.html) (various) (http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy-mopar.html)

These filters are Frams, Purolators, or Wixes. Mopar does not manufacture it's own filters, nor do they require anything special from these manufacturers. Since they basically paint them a different color, stamp them with a Mopar logo, and double the price, there is no reason to buy them. Sadly, the Mopar Severe Duty 53020311 filter is actually the worst filter of them all. It is a (http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy-mopar.html)Fram Extra Guard (http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html#fram-ph8a). (http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy-mopar.html)




seems that by putting a mopar filter on anything he is basically buying what he would have bought anyways...they dont filter that well and are basically rebadges...

[MattRobertson]

That is an excellent example of why mindless brand loyalty isn't doing you any favors and may hurt you. I have never understood why some people insist on a particular brand because they think for some reason the mfr is the best at something.

And besides its common knowledge that Mopar parts are mf'd by outsiders and labelled Mopar after the fact. We have countless examples of this. The Mopar exhaust (Borla), the Mopar coilovers (KW) :blah:

I wouldn't buy a Wal-Mart filter either. I'd look for something that tested well and use that; regardless of the label on the outside.

[tedsweet]

i only use wix , napa gold, or puralotor.

[X E Ryder]

Hey nice write up! Well done.

[Scooby]

That is an excellent example of why mindless brand loyalty isn't doing you any favors and may hurt you. I have never understood why some people insist on a particular brand because they think for some reason the mfr is the best at something.

And besides its common knowledge that Mopar parts are mf'd by outsiders and labelled Mopar after the fact. We have countless examples of this. The Mopar exhaust (Borla), the Mopar coilovers (KW) :blah:

I wouldn't buy a Wal-Mart filter either. I'd look for something that tested well and use that; regardless of the label on the outside.

Now thats funny right there :)
You say it is silly to buy a mopar filter because it isint any better than any other because they dont manufacturer it.
and then turn around and say you wouldnt buy a "walmart filter". I quess Walmart does manafacture their own filters
:blam:

The auto maker may not manufacter the filter, But they do tell the manufacturer the specifications they want and need from the filter.
The MOPAR labeled filter is certain to be made to those specs (Regardless of who manufacturered it)
Maybe "Pure One" may filter to a smaller micron size, but that has to come at the cost of more restriction / flow . There is really no arguement to this. How much is too much ??? I dont know ??? but I am pretty sure Mopar knows.
For me I'll just go with what they recomend, and buy it at the least expensive place I can find. (Walmart < $5)

[DodgeZ]

that's a lot of work to change the oil.

[Scooby]

that's a lot of work to change the oil.


It is actually a very easy oil change, the step by step directions just make it seem long.

Removing the skid plate is 5 bolts and takes about 30 seconds.

after that it has the oil filter and drain plug are very accessable. I didnt spill a drop in the whole process.

Try changing the oil on my 1987 S15 Jimmy, you'll be inventing curse words
:doh:

[UK CHRYSLER 300C]

you didnt spill a drop!,well a small drop anyway ay.lol

[Scooby]

if it doesnt stain the concrete it doesnt count :thumbs_u:

[I fly 2]

Is anybody still using the 5-40 turbo diesel oil for the srt8? That's what i've been using the last two oil changes, but i may switch to the quantum blue. I decided to use their engine coolant and started reading about their other products and its seems that they are gonna keep all the elements in the oil for wear and tear that some of the other companies are cutting back on because of the EPA. What do you guys think?

[DA X 6]

If I wanted a cheap oil filter I would use the Mopar filter. I only use Purolator PureOne filters.

Yeah, what he said. On both counts...

[optimus124]

Changed my oil for the first time (for any car). I am pissed that I actually paid someone to do this. Took a grand total of 1hr. That include getting the car in the air, running to autozone to get a 10mm socket, and then the oil change

[oldschool]

Just a Budget Note!
Walmart now carries the "MOPAR" Brand oil filter = $4.97
:beerchug:

For this price I dont know why you would want to use anything else :modding:

Think about it...inferior Mopar...4.95...superior PureOne or other premium filter...5.95. Who cares about being on a budget? Cheapest insurance you can buy next to synth oil!

[oldschool]

been changing my oil for 25 years, never used a wrench to put a filter on.

I agree. To much torque=bad.

If it is hard to get to I can see snugging it up but bad idea otherwise.

[Scooby]

Think about it...inferior Mopar...4.95...superior PureOne or other premium filter...5.95. Who cares about being on a budget? Cheapest insurance you can buy next to synth oil!

Your only assuming the PureOne is better, Maybe it is ??? I can defenetly see it being much more restrictive.
I dont really know but I really dont think you can go wrong with the manufacturer recomended filter.

I do see the hypocracy that so many people spend big bucks to get a less restrictive air filter (even though they let more dirt directly into your cylinders) but get on a soap box for a more restrictive oil filter that may take out a microscopeclty smaller particulate

[oldschool]

Um...do a search on filters like Fram and other OEM filters available on this search engine Scooby. There is a study where before and after usage these cheaper filters fail either because of inferior glue/materials/media. They opened each up and flow was not a concern from what I remembered reading.

[optimus124]

For my next change, I'm gonna go to a better filter. What size should I look for?

[Scooby]

Um...do a search on filters like Fram and other OEM filters available on this search engine Scooby. There is a study where before and after usage these cheaper filters fail either because of inferior glue/materials/media. They opened each up and flow was not a concern from what I remembered reading.

Go ahead and pay an extra dollar or two for the Purolator filter it is the same filter as the Mopar just a different name on it.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=6&Number=986824&Searchpage=1&Main=76558&Words=mopar&topic=0&Search=true#Post986824

That old oil filter thing has been around since Al Gore invented the internet, and is just as reliable as Al himself. Everything you ever wanted to know (and more…) about oil, lubricants, and filters can be found at http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ check out their forums pages sometime !

[Luzader1983]

Does anyone know what the part number of the "belly pan" or Gravel Shield is? My charger was purchased used and that shield is ripped and some of the plastic pins are missing. I would like to replace it.

[ICEChargerRT]

Some words of wisdom from my Father said many years ago... "Any job is easy, if you have the right tool, an easy job can be impossible with the wrong tools."

Few weeks ago I decided to forgo the oil changes from Dodge and do it myself. Hard decision only because Dodge keeps sending me discount coupons every few months. What tipped the scale was last oil change the kid doing it over tightened the filter and it started leaking. I have also wanted to switch the engine to synthetic oil and they charge a small fortune for that.

Everything seemed to be going well... Belly pan cover was missing one of four screws but came off ok. Old Oil filter came off with a little effort and of course made a small mess. Then tried to unscrew the drain plug with my cheapo wobbly Chinese made rachet, it would not budge...hmmm...ok try going the other way, maybe I'm off or something? Still no luck! I then try it from various angles, nothing. Now I'm cursing the kid at the dealership for over tightning the bolt. Dig through my box of tools and find a much better craftsmen 13 MM rachet bit that helps but I'm still not getting solid leverage because the rachet is not quite straight or solid. My wife suggests trying a new rachet so we run out to the local late night Target for a rachet.

Get home from the store about 11:00, sure enough after two or three trys, turned without a problem and I completed the oil change. Today, I'm going out and getting a few better tools. Got to have the right tool for the job!

[Dupie24]

Some words of wisdom from my Father said many years ago... "Any job is easy, if you have the right tool, an easy job can be impossible with the wrong tools."

Always listen to your father!
My father taught me - "If you know how it works, you can fix it"-- And how true I have found that out! So moral of this story is "Know how it works, and get the right tools!!!"

[daoist]

thanks for the tips guys, I celebrated the good weather today by changing my oil, and the tips sure helped out!

[FleshWound]

what size hose do you use on the nipple fumoto valve??:rock:




(Hose Sizes for N-type Valves)


3/8"I.D. --- All F-series Valves(F101N,F103N,F104N,F105N,F106N.F107N,F108N,F 109N,F110N,F111N)
5/8"I.D. --- FG2N,FG3N,FG7BN,FG8N,T202N,T204N,T206N,T208N
3/4"I.D. --- FG5N,FG6N,T200N,T201N,T203N,T205N,T207N,T211N

F101N is what I have on my 5.7 liter

[Hemi 7]

question ?? wouldn't it be easier to use the siphoning system Mercedes B??enz uses

[Dupie24]

question ?? wouldn't it be easier to use the siphoning system Mercedes B??enz uses
Sounds expensive, you got such a tool? Sucking the oil out works, but I'll bet you leave more in the bottom of the pan than if you pull the drain plug for 20 min.

[NYC_SRT8]

Go ahead and pay an extra dollar or two for the Purolator filter it is the same filter as the Mopar just a different name on it.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=6&Number=986824&Searchpage=1&Main=76558&Words=mopar&topic=0&Search=true#Post986824

That old oil filter thing has been around since Al Gore invented the internet, and is just as reliable as Al himself. Everything you ever wanted to know (and more…) about oil, lubricants, and filters can be found at http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ check out their forums pages sometime !

The mopar filter is exactly the same as Purolator but not as the PureOne (premium purolator). PureOne and Bosche filters are exactly the same. Purolator / mopar filters are good but the upscale PureOne/Bosche filter has more filtration (pleats). I have a link from 300cforums where a guy dissected 20 or so filters and examined them. Check it out...
http://www.300cforums.com/forums/general-discussion/31190-oil-filters-dissected.html?highlight=oil+filter

[NYC_SRT8]

For my next change, I'm gonna go to a better filter. What size should I look for?

I use PureOne PL30001. It's almost double the length of the stock filter. I also use Mobil1 m1-301. It's the same size at the PureOne PL30001. Stock size in mobil1 is m1-204. You can cross reference to the find the comparable size in other manufactures if you don't want to use the bigger size filter.


Use either purone/bosch, purolator/mopar, mobil 1/ k&n filter.... in that order.

[tedsweet]

no need to drain for 20 minutes. drain then change filter, reinstall plug, fill oil.

Sounds expensive, you got such a tool? Sucking the oil out works, but I'll bet you leave more in the bottom of the pan than if you pull the drain plug for 20 min.

[Lady Charger]

..

[Lady Charger]

no need to drain for 20 minutes. drain then change filter, reinstall plug, fill oil.

I use PureOne PL30001. It's almost double the length of the stock filter. I also use Mobil1 m1-301. It's the same size at the PureOne PL30001. Stock size in mobil1 is m1-204. You can cross reference to the find the comparable size in other manufactures if you don't want to use the bigger size filter.


Use either purone/bosch, purolator/mopar, mobil 1/ k&n filter.... in that order.
your so right Willy LOLOLOL

[Dennis H]

This is a very informative thread. Thanks to all who submitted. I have ordered the Fumoto, and will stick with the Royal Purple Oil and Napa Gold oil Filters I have always used. Biggest challenge is keeping the ramps from moving when I drive the car up on them. :banana:

[Dennis H]

Royal Purple. Napa Gold Oil Filter. Still looking for ramps that don't slide-my Rhino's do. Debating on wether to put oil in filter before install.
Anyone replace the stock air filter? I'll be putting in a K+N at oil change. Thanks.

[V6nside]

http://www.lxforums.com/board/%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg173/v6nside/jc_2031hs.jpg%5B/IMG%5D
Changed oil yesterday, replaced with Q- 10/30 syn. and OE filter. I used this to get the filter off and to get the extra 3/4 turn back on. You will never have a stuck filter again with these, and you can control the pressure on the filter since they work just like Vise-grips. There is just enough room to get the chain around the bottom of the filter, next time I will use a longer filter that clears the oil pan. This thing can be used for a lot more than oil changes as well.

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg173/v6nside/jc_2031hs.jpg

[CDesmondO]

This is a very informative thread. Thanks to all who submitted. I have ordered the Fumoto, and will stick with the Royal Purple Oil and Napa Gold oil Filters I have always used. Biggest challenge is keeping the ramps from moving when I drive the car up on them. :banana:

the key to not sliding the ramps is constant momentum. i will usually pull my car back about 10 ft from the ramps and drive up them. No sliding this way, but if I pull up them slowly, and give it gas, they always slide.

[Lou]

... The factory installed filters are always difficult to remove, but usually come off with the Cal-Van, just requires a lot of torque. This is way better than the "poke a hole in it with a screwdriver" method for sure...
Good write up. A nice addition to the knowledgebase.


Some days the good old screw driver through the heart is the only way....

You'd swear they have King Kong tighten those...

[petes]

i'm so glad i found this post!! i am actually planning to change my oil this weekend for the first time. i have done it on other cars but never on my 300, so im not too scared! :panic:

just had a quick question though.. i am going to napa today to buy all the stuff needed for the change. i notice there is alot of talk about metal and plastic oil filter wrenches. is there any particular size i should be asking for, or is it like a "one size fits all" thing? :doh:

thanks

petes

[fnkychkn]

i'm so glad i found this post!! i am actually planning to change my oil this weekend for the first time. i have done it on other cars but never on my 300, so im not too scared! :panic:

just had a quick question though.. i am going to napa today to buy all the stuff needed for the change. i notice there is alot of talk about metal and plastic oil filter wrenches. is there any particular size i should be asking for, or is it like a "one size fits all" thing? :doh:

thanks

petesi prefer this type (metal):
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p223/fnkychkn/posting%20pics/oilfilterwrench.jpg
buy one to fit the filter you're installing.

[petes]

well.. just finish changing my oil and all i have to say is WOW!!!:pepper: that by far was the easiest oil change i have ever done! chrysler really did a good job when they were designing the placement of the oil pan and oil filter!

everything was easy! i did it i less than an hour.. and i didnt have any problems with the oil filter at all. took a little bit of torque but it came off.

if anyone from chrysler is reading these post.. GOOD JOB!:not_worth they are always getting bashed about their poor design on certain thing but im gonna praise them on this one! :thumbs_u:

petes

[RandySmith]

BUY A K-D #2991 FILTER WRENCH FIRST! (like the picture in fnkychkn's post above - it fits the factory filter, and new ones of the PH-16 size.) I read the thread before my first 5.7L oil change, and still had trouble getting the filter off. My three strap-type wrenches did not work, one even puncturing the filter, sending hot oil on me! Went to a local auto parts store, picked up a K-D brand part #2991 cup-type filter wrench. Bang it on lightly with a hammer if needed, and I used an 18" breaker bar, 6" 1/2 drive extension, and one inch socket, and the factory filter finally came off!. The K-D 2991 accepts a 3/8" drive for the future changes, since I don't torque my filters on like the factory did. Bet there is some guy in (where, Brampton or something) Canada, eh, smirking as he sets his filter wrench to 150 ft-pounds! :wink:

[Davesatdoasisbar]

With a 392 should I be looking at a different size filter? Would it take more then the 7 qts?

[Suge]

After changing oil does it make a diff if the plastic shield goes back on or does it serve a real purpose?

[Scooby]

Put ther shield back on, it's benifit far outways the little inconvienience at oil change time

[LVBEE]

Thank you for all the info

[houston_four]

I'd first like to thank King Kong for tightening my oil filter from the factory...what a beast!!!! I had a strap wrench but ended up having to go get the metal socket to get that damn thing off! All in all it would have taken me about 30 minutes but having to go get the metal socket etc... ended up taking me 1 1/2 hour. Not shabby at all!

Thanks for the write up, I know how to change oil but it was nice getting under a new car and knowing where things were and what to expect etc...