Remote start stalls out?

[BlackCharger06]

Not sure if this is the right section, but I know most people skip over a lot of posts. So the install was pretty straight forward and worked fine. I get a call today from my mom and she tells me the car dies after about 15/20 seconds. I also like a dork wired it up to the horn so every time she hits the key button the horn honks. So undoing that wire isn't a big deal, but why is the car dying? Plenty of gas, check ;) Could it be the weather? I'm guessing that she is hitting the key to many times and is shutting it down by accident. It could also be just a programing thing as well, I'm usually pretty good when it comes to wiring things up and had it running yesterday just fine. Love to hear any ideas, it's cold out so I'd love to spend only an hour in my drive way instead of 3 ;) thanx guys.

Brian

[glhs837]

Brand of remote start? Bypass module?

[BlackCharger06]

Brand of remote start? Bypass module?

mopar oem for 2006 dodge charger. Install kit and remote start module. Any help would be great. I'm hoping it's just user error or a easy fix. Maybe the doors need to be locked or the gas light was on so it shuts off.

[Zoban]

May need to reprogram the tach ..

[Zoban]

http://www.moparsupercenter.com/pdfs/82208995AE.pdf

on Page 11...


3. Tach Rate Programming (Required for system to operate).
A. Close hood.
B. Turn the ignition to the “on” position.
C. Press and hold the programming button. After 10 seconds the horn will
chirp and the lights will flash 3 times.
D. Release the programming button.
E. Press and release the programming button again. The horn will chirp and
the lights will flash 4 times indicating the system has entered Option
Bank 1.
F. Press and release the programming button again. The horn will chirp and
the lights will flash 5 times indicating the system has entered Option
Bank 2.
G. Advance to option 2 by pressing and releasing the brake pedal 2 times.
The horn will chirp and the lights will flash 2 times indicating the system
is at option 2.
H. Start the vehicle with the key. The horn will chirp and the lights will flash
once approximately every 3 seconds indicating a valid tach signal.
I. Once the engine has settled to a normal idle speed, press and release
the brake pedal to set the tach rate.
J. Turn the ignition off.
Note:
If the system is not chirping the horn and flashing the lights every 3 seconds
after the ignition has started, the system is not seeing a valid tach signal.
Check your tach connection (Dk Blue/Yellow at coil). Repeat the
Tach Rate Programming procedure.

[Zoban]

Or the Keys have to be redone for some reason..


6. Vehicle starts then stalls - SKREEM Transponder Interface not learned.
A. Ensure 2 and 4 way connectors are connected
B. Ensure antenna coil is wrapped tightly around the ignition cylinder
SKREEM antenna ring.
C. Re-learn SKREEM Transponder Interface (see page 12).

[BlackCharger06]

Or the Keys have to be redone for some reason..

Hey man thanx, Bad news I get to figure this stuff out in the snow tomorrow. Good news is I'm pointed in the right direction on how to get it done. It's always something dumb, the hard stuff I can do no problem it's always the little things. Thanx again.

[JetBlack300c]

check your coolant level as well..

mine has been mis-starting and also dying after 20 -30 seconds and i discovered I had a coolant leak, replaced the radiator hoses and flushed the system and now the remote start fires on every shot..

not sure if the 2 were linked, but i believe they might have been, and the remote start was killing the motor because the coolant pressure was too low..

[Zoban]

Now that is one you wouldn't think of .. HAL at work protecting itself as always eh..

[BlackCharger06]

check your coolant level as well..

mine has been mis-starting and also dying after 20 -30 seconds and i discovered I had a coolant leak, replaced the radiator hoses and flushed the system and now the remote start fires on every shot..

not sure if the 2 were linked, but i believe they might have been, and the remote start was killing the motor because the coolant pressure was too low..

This car is to smart for it's own good ;) I'll have to add that to my list.

[klarmie]

I bet resetting the tach signal will take car of the issue

[BlackCharger06]

I bet resetting the tach signal will take car of the issue

I'll have to go try that next. It works on flat ground just fine but for some reason won't work in the drive way that has a sharp angle. Is there level or a float or something silly that I am over looking. I heard that the coolant level might have something to do with it.. Wtf :)

[Zoban]

DOH .. it's the hood switch .. parked on the angle it thinks the hood is up .

May wanna swap to the 2009 switch (has resistor in it already) which goes over by the pcm and doesn't rely on gravity and angles as much as the battery shaped one that bolts onto the hood. ..

[BlackCharger06]

DOH .. it's the hood switch .. parked on the angle it thinks the hood is up .

May wanna swap to the 2009 switch (has resistor in it already) which goes over by the pcm and doesn't rely on gravity and angles as much as the battery shaped one that bolts onto the hood. ..

Well I got out of work late, but I was able to start the car on level ground with 0 problem. I did it 5 times just to be sure. Now when I pulled in the drive way nothing. Then it worked, then it didn't. It must be the hood latch. 9 degrees right now though. I'm going to wait until this weekend when it's a nice and toasty 25 degrees to mess with it some more. (thanx zoban)

[BlackCharger06]

So it was on a hill and I was having problems. After watching tv watching the snow I decided to just move the switch which took care of the problem. I tried mounting it where the book says which didn't work out so well. Now it's finally fixed.

[klarmie]

NICE!! Thanks for the update. :beerchug:

[BlackCharger06]

Now a year later the thing won't work at all. I hear there is a tsb for a new switch is that true. I looked at some other posts, and token and a few others just grounded out the switch. There are 2 wires, and I know one of them has to be connected. I took the switch off the car and put it on a voltmeter. I got 900ohms of resistance, so I threw a 900ohm resister on instead of the switch and that didn't work. Hey Adam what is your warranty policy ;) I think the switch is fubar...

[BlackCharger06]

anyone???

[BrilliantBlackHemi]

Well when I had my remote start. It eventually quit and I had to buy another DNA module to plug in to get it to work again. That's the card that plugs in the module with the wire connections.

[fnkychkn]

Now a year later the thing won't work at all. I hear there is a tsb for a new switch is that true. I looked at some other posts, and token and a few others just grounded out the switch. There are 2 wires, and I know one of them has to be connected. I took the switch off the car and put it on a voltmeter. I got 900ohms of resistance, so I threw a 900ohm resister on instead of the switch and that didn't work. Hey Adam what is your warranty policy ;) I think the switch is fubar...
exactly what are the ignition, horn and park lamps doing when you initiate a remote start event? this may not be a hood switch issue. Token has the older version with the chassis grounded switch. yours grounds through the module.

[BlackCharger06]

exactly what are the ignition, horn and park lamps doing when you initiate a remote start event? this may not be a hood switch issue. Token has the older version with the chassis grounded switch. yours grounds through the module.

Details might help.


I just walked out now to double check. I click the remote start twice and I see the parking lights flash twice and the horn honks twice. Nothing happens until about 5 seconds later and then the horn and lights honk/blink twice. I got it to work this past tuesday all day, but not before and not since. I think it could be the ball in the switch isn't making contact with whatever it has to to. I have a steep driveway, and thought that might be the problem but I can't start the car on flat ground either... Thanx Funky....

[BlackCharger06]

I'm not sure if it matters but the interior lights come on as well and the radio stays on like the car is in acc mode or something. So some how the car is getting an error message or something that is preventing it from starting cause everything else is seems to be ok.

[fnkychkn]

does the ignition turn on before the last 2 horn chirps?

EDIT: never mind the last question, you just answered it lol.

[BlackCharger06]

does the ignition turn on before the last 2 horn chirps?
nope. I hear a click but it doesn't crank or crank, start then die after a few seconds like I know some other guys have had happen.

[65standard]

there should be a DTC stored when the remote start failed. that would let you know if it is the hood switch or something else.

[fnkychkn]

this sounds like a "key in sense" polarity issue.

1- hood closed. key on. press and hold programming button until lamps/horn flash 3 times (approx 10 seconds).
2- press and release programming button. lamps/horn flash 4 times.
3- press and release programming button. lamps/horn flash 5 times.
4- press and release brake pedal. lamps/horn flash once.
5- press and release transmitter button.
6- key off and try remote start again. should work now.

this is a temporary repair. tomorrow, i'll post instructions for a permanent fix.

[fnkychkn]

there should be a DTC stored when the remote start failed. that would let you know if it is the hood switch or something else.
no DTCs for '05-'07 mopar remote start.

[65standard]

no DTCs for '05-'07 mopar remote start.

dinosaurs

[BlackCharger06]

this sounds like a "key in sense" polarity issue.

1- hood closed. key on. press and hold programming button until lamps/horn flash 3 times (approx 10 seconds).
2- press and release programming button. lamps/horn flash 4 times.
3- press and release programming button. lamps/horn flash 5 times.
4- press and release brake pedal. lamps/horn flash once.
5- press and release transmitter button.
6- key off and try remote start again. should work now.

this is a temporary repair. tomorrow, i'll post instructions for a permanent fix.

well that was fun.. My neighbors love the honking horn :)

With the hood closed, and the key in the on position, I held the programing button and it honks once... but nothing after that.. not after 10, or 30 seconds...Because I can't do that step I don't think the other steps had much effect. After the first step I pressed and released the button and the lamps/horn didn't flash 4 times, or 5 times. I then pressed and released the brake pedal, and again nothing. I put the key back in the off position and nothing happened. I'm back where I started. probably something else.

[fnkychkn]

well that was fun.. My neighbors love the honking horn :)
OK, new first step; remove the horn relay. lol

http://members.cox.net/mmfrieden/LX_Front_Relays.jpg


is the hood switch connected?

hood switch issues will cause the lamps/horn to flash twice immediately after the last fob press. a 5 second delay and the ignition being turned on before the last 2 flashes indicates a key in sense polarity issue and can be programmed. if it won't even go into programming mode, it;s either not seeing the hood closed, the key on or the button push.

[BlackCharger06]

OK, new first step; remove the horn relay. lol

http://members.cox.net/mmfrieden/LX_Front_Relays.jpg


is the hood switch connected?

hood switch issues will cause the lamps/horn to flash twice immediately after the last fob press. a 5 second delay and the ignition being turned on before the last 2 flashes indicates a key in sense polarity issue and can be programmed. if it won't even go into programming mode, it;s either not seeing the hood closed, the key on or the button push.


Yea, probably a good idea to disable the horn ;) Yes the hood switch is connected. I'm glad we might have the issue isolated, but I can't reprogram it because I can't get the car to follow the steps mentioned before. Maybe it's not 5 seconds maybe 2.. it's just cold out so it seems longer. Are you saying that the ignition won't turn on if it is a hood switch issue? I'm probably just doing something wrong. What's the chance of me having the dealer fix it?

[fnkychkn]

not trying to belittle but i just gotta ask; where is your programming button?

[BlackCharger06]

not trying to belittle but i just gotta ask; where is your programming button?

No your asking the right questions... when you say programing button I'm thinking the same button to start the car on the remote... I'm wrong huh and you mean on the brain/module it self huh?

[BlackCharger06]

http://www.robagd.com/cars/robs/PDFs/Mopar_LX_Remote_Start_Install_Manual.pdf


ah ok... I'll give that a try...

[fnkychkn]

it should be tie wrapped near the DLC (data link connector).

[BlackCharger06]

Well after pushing the right buttons, I still had no luck. I ended up bringing it to the dealer and they gave me some bs story about how there is a wire that give a constant 12 volt signal that needs to be cut. They said if the wire is not cut the remote start will not work. I asked them so how has it worked all this time.. and they couldn't give me an answer. 200 dollars lata it works fine. I called Adam at Eastway and he couldn't figure out why a 5 star dealer couldn't fix it right away. He also said that the starter should be under warrarnty and that I can call up chrysler and I'll get reimbursed for the repair cost which was good to here. Is this wire story BS, who knows but atleast it works now...

[fnkychkn]

there are actually 2 wires that need to be cut from the SKREEM interface module. i can't remember exactly why but they can sometimes mess with the remote start module's ability to see key in sense position. should've waited another day. i would have told you which wires to cut.

[JetBlack300c]

not to side track, but any one know where I can get the updated hood switch.

mine was removed from the hood and subsequently broken after the last repaint, I have it grounded to the chassis now, but want the hood switch back..

or if there is a decent aftermarket mercury switch anyone knows of...

[BlackCharger06]

there are actually 2 wires that need to be cut from the SKREEM interface module. i can't remember exactly why but they can sometimes mess with the remote start module's ability to see key in sense position. should've waited another day. i would have told you which wires to cut.

Yea, that's what I get for being in a hurry. Thanx again for all your help.

[fnkychkn]

not to side track, but any one know where I can get the updated hood switch.

mine was removed from the hood and subsequently broken after the last repaint, I have it grounded to the chassis now, but want the hood switch back..

or if there is a decent aftermarket mercury switch anyone knows of...
you'll need to get the improved version of the original switch (chassis grounded). if you want the new style switch (module grounded), you'll need a different harness and DNA chip.

[JetBlack300c]

you'll need to get the improved version of the original switch (chassis grounded). if you want the new style switch (module grounded), you'll need a different harness and DNA chip.


thanks Pete, I actually located a DEI mercury bearing switch right after I posted, simple 2 wire ground style used for hood/trunk tip sensors on most aftermarket alarm systems. it should work.

[BlackCharger06]

there are actually 2 wires that need to be cut from the SKREEM interface module. i can't remember exactly why but they can sometimes mess with the remote start module's ability to see key in sense position. should've waited another day. i would have told you which wires to cut.

Just to help others in the future.. what wires do u have to cut?

[fnkychkn]

Just to help others in the future.. what wires do u have to cut?
i'll get pictures tomorrow.

[fnkychkn]

cut orange and violet wires and tape back to harness.

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p223/fnkychkn/DSC01394.jpg