Help changing inner tierods

[357_magnum]

Well, i went to get an alignment today after putting on my new 24s. Guy tells me i have a worn outer tierod on the drivers side and a worn inner tierod on the passenger side. I decided im gonna replace both on each side. So i order a pair of Moog inners and outers from rockauto.com total came to $173.64 shipped. So my question is can anyone give me any guidance on how and what to expect when changing the inners? maybe a how to or something. the outers seem to be a cinch to replace. thanks guys.

[klarmie]

INNER TIE ROD REMOVAL

1.Remove outer tie rod.
2.Remove tie rod jam nut from inner tie rod.
https://w05.dealerconnect.chrysler.com/service/mds2002/serviceInfo/en_US/301.jpg

NOTE: If equipped with All-Wheel-Drive, it may be necessary to remove heat shield (3) above inner tie rod bellows (2) to allow better access to bellows clamp.


https://w05.dealerconnect.chrysler.com/service/mds2002/serviceInfo/en_US/6571.jpg
3.Remove clamp (1) securing bellows (3) to inner tie rod.
4.Remove clamp (2) securing bellows (3) to steering gear body.
5.Remove bellows (3).


https://w05.dealerconnect.chrysler.com/service/mds2002/serviceInfo/en_US/6573.jpg
6.Install appropriate inner tie rod removal tool on inner tie rod hex (1).
CAUTION: If inner tie rod cannot be removed using specified tools, do not use a hammer or heat to loosen. Damage to steering gear will occur. Replace entire steering gear.
7.Unthread and remove inner tie rod (2).


https://w05.dealerconnect.chrysler.com/service/mds2002/serviceInfo/en_US/6577.jpg
8.Remove travel restrictor (2) from rack gear (3).






INNER TIE ROD INSTALLATION


https://w05.dealerconnect.chrysler.com/service/mds2002/serviceInfo/en_US/6577.jpg

NOTE: The travel restrictor (2) has a beveled lip (1) on one end of its inside diameter to keep the restrictor from being install too far onto the rack gear. Install the restrictor with the beveled lip side outward (away from gear) to avoid misinstallation and restrictor damage.
1.Install travel restrictor (2), beveled lip (1) side outward, on end of rack gear (3). Once installed, restrictor will be flush with end of rack gear.

2.Apply Mopar® Lock AND Seal Adhesive or equivalent medium thread locker adhesive to inboard end threads of inner tie rod.
https://w05.dealerconnect.chrysler.com/service/mds2002/serviceInfo/en_US/6573.jpg
3.Install inner tie rod (2) onto gear using appropriate inner tie rod installer tool or crows foot wrench on hex (1). Tighten inner tie rod to 115 N·m, (85 ft. lbs.).

4.Loosely place new clamp over large end of bellows.5.Slide new bellows with clamp over end of inner tie rod and onto gear body.
https://w05.dealerconnect.chrysler.com/service/mds2002/serviceInfo/en_US/6589.jpg
6.Push small end of bellows (2) past groove (1) machined into inner tie rod.
7.Apply a small amount of Mopar® Lubriplate or equivalent uniformly to groove (1) in inner tie rod shaft. This allows for toe adjustment without twisting bellows.
8.Pull small end of bellows outward until ridge inside bellows engages groove.


https://w05.dealerconnect.chrysler.com/service/mds2002/serviceInfo/en_US/6571.jpg
9.Install new clamp (1) over small end of bellows (3).


https://w05.dealerconnect.chrysler.com/service/mds2002/serviceInfo/en_US/6591.jpg
10.Using crimping pliers (2), crimp bellows clamp (1) at gear body.


https://w05.dealerconnect.chrysler.com/service/mds2002/serviceInfo/en_US/301.jpg
11.If equipped with All-Wheel-Drive and heat shield was removed, install heat shield (3) above inner tie rod bellows (2). Tighten screws to 10 N·m (89 in. lbs.).

12.Thread tie rod jam nut onto inner tie rod far enough to install outer tie rod.
13.Install outer tie rod.




:beerchug::modding::thumbs_u:

[9GUY9]

you will need a inner rod end tool. Its basicly a ~12" tube that various size "C" shaped inserts that fit over the hex in the inner rod end go in one end and you put a 1/2" ratchet on the other end.

You can probably borrow/rent one from a parts store.



A little piece of advice; when you remove the outer rod end just crack the jam nut loose, and then attempt to not turn it any more as you get the outer rod end off. You can then measure how far the jam nut is from the end of the inner rod end, and put the new jam nut the same distance in on the new inner rod end. THen just screw your new outer rod end up to the jam nut and your alignmet won't be too far off for the drive to the alignment shop.

[357_magnum]

thanks alot guys. do i have to buy new bellows and clamps or can i reuse the old ones?

[bigjim]

Be gentle on removal and they are reusable. I took mine apart prior to ordering to make sure they were spent then put everything back. I think my Chrysler inners came w/boots. Carefully measure the length when you remove the assys so you can get to an alignment shop without scrubing the tires.

[sidetrack]

INNER TIE ROD REMOVAL





:beerchug::modding::thumbs_u:

Klarmie,
Where did you get the inner tie rod removal instructions?
I have the 2005 and 2006 Service Manual and they don't have the Inner Tie Rod instructions.
I see the pics are linked to dealerconnect.chrysler.com.
Is there a 2007/2008 Service Manual available?

[9GUY9]

I have replaced lots of inner rod ends and never needed to replace the boots. If you don't have a new metal clamp for the boot, you can use a heavy duty zip tie.

[357_magnum]

I have replaced lots of inner rod ends and never needed to replace the boots. If you don't have a new metal clamp for the boot, you can use a heavy duty zip tie.

what about using screw clamps like the ones used on air intakes?

[9GUY9]

what about using screw clamps like the ones used on air intakes?


as long as they were thin enough to fit in the grove on the r&p housing that would work too. Theres very little load put on the boot, so you just need something to keep it from sliding off the rack and pinion housing.

[357_magnum]

another question. what exactly did u guys use to remove the old clamps? i want to try to remove them without damaging the bellows. thanks.

[Carfinish]

since you are replacing both inner and outer....one method of trying to maintain the correct distance on each side it to count the number of revolutions it takes to get the outer tie rod off and then screw the new on on the same amount...you should be pretty close and good for drive to shop for alignment

[bigjim]

since you are replacing both inner and outer....one method of trying to maintain the correct distance on each side it to count the number of revolutions it takes to get the outer tie rod off and then screw the new on on the same amount...you should be pretty close and good for drive to shop for alignment

The inners on these cars ARE the tie rod. IMHO the only safe method is measuring the before and writing it down for re-install later.

[Carfinish]

The inners on these cars ARE the tie rod. IMHO the only safe method is measuring the before and writing it down for re-install later.

no need to explain to me jim....lol ;) see this
http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=114412

I guess I should have said.... that is the way my mechanic (chrysler tech) did it when he changed them on my car.

[Tbird100636]

I have replaced lots of inner rod ends and never needed to replace the boots. If you don't have a new metal clamp for the boot, you can use a heavy duty zip tie.I've only done that on vehicles that you can't fit boot clamp pliers in to crimp the clamp. That's not an issue on an LX. You don't need the specific pliers, just crimp it with diagonal cutters. Don't squeeze to hard, just enough to crimp it, not cut it. Tap the crimp down gently with a hammer.

another question. what exactly did u guys use to remove the old clamps? i want to try to remove them without damaging the bellows. thanks.Just use a flathead screwdriver inside of the crimp. Insert and twist. Just have a new clamp handy. The Chrysler inner comes with this clamp.

you will need a inner rod end tool. Its basicly a ~12" tube that various size "C" shaped inserts that fit over the hex in the inner rod end go in one end and you put a 1/2" ratchet on the other end.

You can probably borrow/rent one from a parts store.



A little piece of advice; when you remove the outer rod end just crack the jam nut loose, and then attempt to not turn it any more as you get the outer rod end off. You can then measure how far the jam nut is from the end of the inner rod end, and put the new jam nut the same distance in on the new inner rod end. THen just screw your new outer rod end up to the jam nut and your alignmet won't be too far off for the drive to the alignment shop.
Well that tool doesn't fit that well on a RWD LX. You have to jack up the front suspension as far as it will go, but still it doesn't clear the spindle very well. I use an adjustable wrench on these to remove and install. It is a lees bulky wrench I got from Snap-On.
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x294/Tbird100636/SnapOnwrench.jpg

I've also used these huge Channel Lock pliers to remove them too. Just grip on tight and give it a quick jerk.
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x294/Tbird100636/BigAZZ.jpg

You also have to jack up the suspension to be able to thread the inner tie rod on as straight as possible, so you don't cross-thread it. You will have to angle it slightly down, but keep it down until it's started completely.

[bigjim]

no need to explain to me jim....lol ;) see this
http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=114412

I guess I should have said.... that is the way my mechanic (chrysler tech) did it when he changed them on my car.


I definatly was NOT trying to contradict you. I just want it clear for others.:friday::beerchug::racing:

[Carfinish]

I definatly was NOT trying to contradict you. I just want it clear for others.:friday::beerchug::racing:

I know....was just funnin with you...:beerchug: