HOW TO: Install Stealth Auto H10 HID fogs in a 300C [Archive]

GoofyTimL

07-30-2008, 02:23 PM

I've been wanting to do this ever since I installed matching fogs in the MSRT. It took quite a while to get this all together, but last night I finally did it. Here's the scoop.

I contacted Aaron and we exchanged info about what I wanted (6000k HID H10s), and then I filled out the on-line order form, etc.

Here's how the Heritage Edition looked as I started the job (with the recently painted garage floor I might add)...
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-6/1186946/080729001.jpg

Here's how you know what you get in the DDM kit box...
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-6/1186946/080729002.jpg

Here's what half of the components in the box look like: From left to right... the HID bulb itself (including a rubber weather boot and an extra set of wires (blue & black) - the wires just pull out of the boot), the "thin" HID ballast connected permanently to the HID Ignitor, and "HID Decoder". The "HID Decoder" is the new form of the former white ceramic capacitors that used to ship with the product for anti-flicker control. This is a much better design from all appearances. Also included were some cable ties, which I did not use, and two double-sided sticky foam pieces for use in mounting the ballast to a fascia or bumper surface.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-6/1186946/080729004small.jpg

Here's a close-up of the "HID Decoders" which I took to ask Aaron and Todd Staples (Stealth Auto owner) what the heck these things were!
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-6/1186946/080630HIDDecoders.jpg

Continued in next post...

GoofyTimL

07-30-2008, 02:28 PM

As most are aware... To access the fogs without removing the front fascia, you must remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the front side of the plastic engine pan, the 10 small bolts/screws and 6 push-pin rivets holding the fascia skirt pan, and then pull that out of the way. Also, IF your car still has the intake air silencer you'll need to pull that out... requires removal of a l-o-n-g 10mm bolt way up there between the plastic wheel well and the silencer.

Once that's out of the way, the driver's side fog looks like this...
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-6/1186946/080729005.jpg

Note that the halogen bulb's base is at 9:00 position. That will be important later. Also note that there is a small blue "keeper" on the back side of the power connector. You DO NOT have to remove this (although I did - inadvertently).

Grab the base of the H10 and turn the base to the 6:00 position (down) and the H10 bulb will pull out of the fog housing. Then disconnect the power coupling and set the bulb aside.

Note that the power coupling has a yellow and a brown/black wire as shown here (sorry... slightly blurry picture). You will need to take note of the brown/black wire later.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-6/1186946/080729006.jpg

I always compare the two bulbs for the wing pattern so that I can figure out how to insert the new bulb since it doesn't have the right-angle base as a clue. Not that the "wire" of the HID is oriented to the direction of the H10 base angle. That's how you know which way to insert it... and turn it.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-6/1186946/080729007.jpg

I didn't notice at the time, but soon would, that the O-ring appears larger or thicker on the HID bulb than on the H10 bulb. When I tried to seat the new bulb I could not get it to go into the housing far enough to engage the wings. That's when I remembered that I had the same problem before on the MSRT8. The solution is easy... remove the H10 O-ring and reuse it on the new bulb. Here's how the two O-rings compare when removed from the bulbs (skinny H10 O-ring on the right).
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-6/1186946/080729008.jpg

When I spoke to Todd about the "HID Decoders" he told me that pin in the female power connector on the label-side of the decoder is the ground, and to ensure that black wire (actually brown/black) of the car's power connector went to that pin. I asked him if this was like reversing the connector with the old capacitors. In fact that was the case. In order to connect the power coupling correctly, the security tab will be on the opposite side of the security clip when you make the connection. Unfortunately I didn't take a picture of this specifically.

Since there wasn't enough double-stick foam material in the kit for the Ignitor and Decoders, and the cable ties struck me as a little short, I just used some automotive double-stick (from AutoZone) to secure the Decoder to the bumper metal, and Ignitor to the fascia plastic as shown below. I stuck the ballast on the hard foam piece bumper cover extending out to the fascia. It just seemed like a logical spot. We'll see if it stays stuck over time.

NOTE IN THE PICTURE BELOW that the blue security clip on the power connection to the HID decoder, which I reattached backwards) is on the wrong side. If you didn't take the blue clip off the semi-circular curvature on your plug will be to the outside. Note that the black "tongue" of the connection is on the opposite side of the security tab of the decoder. This is the indication that you have properly reversed the connection so the light will work.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-6/1186946/080729009.jpg

Working on the passenger side fog is a little more difficult because of the washer fluid reservoir being in the way, but basically the process is the same, and here is the final result.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-6/1186946/080729010.jpg

It was dark by the time I finished so this probably isn't the best direct comparison to the before picture of the H.E., but it gets the point across... much brighter and a better match (although a little more blue) with the OEM HID low-beams of the Heritage Edition.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-6/1186946/080729011.jpg

That's all for now... enjoy modding!