How To: RT Exhaust into V6

[thefever]

After scouring the forums for information on how to put an R/T exhaust on my V6, I decided to do a write up of how it is done. All of the information compiled into an easy to understand (hopefully) write-up. Now, I’m having a shop weld my on. Some people, from what I’ve read have used the clamps, and had to use an adapter. This just seemed “Un-steady” to me. I didn’t want to have to check the tightness of the clamps every few thousand miles. With that said, let’s get onto the parts you’ll need.

Total Time: About an hour for prep, and an hour or so at the shop.

Difficulty: 3 of 10


WHAT YOU’LL NEED:

Stock Exhaust Brackets.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v627/namesinwetcement/DSCF1340.jpg
Part Number: 4581723-AB
Cost: $9.20 a piece from my dealership.

Two 8mm Bolts. 1-1/4”
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v627/namesinwetcement/DSCF1342.jpg
Cost: $1.03 from Home Depot.
These will be used to bolt the exhaust brackets to the car.

Two Exhaust Insulators.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v627/namesinwetcement/DSCF1343.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v627/namesinwetcement/DSCF1345.jpg
Part Number: 17160
Cost: $3.99 from Autozone.

Two Rolls of Insulator.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v627/namesinwetcement/DSCF1341.jpg
Cost: $4.29 from Home Depot.

RT Exhaust.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v627/namesinwetcement/DSCF1348.jpg
Cost: $100 from a local member. (Thanks Terri)

Socket set, plastic cleaner, rags.

There’s a good few things you can go ahead and do before you take your car to the exhaust shop. I was able to clean the RT exhaust and polish the tops of the tips, put my heat shield material onto the inner fender well, and gas tank, and also install my brackets.

Step 1:
I didn’t have my ramps, so I just jacked up the rear of my car and used some jack stands.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v627/namesinwetcement/DSCF1357.jpg

Step 2:
The first thing I did was crawl underneath there and with some cleaner and a rag, cleaned my inner bumper where my left side resonator will be fairly close to. I went ahead and placed some of the insulator on this area.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v627/namesinwetcement/DSCF1352.jpg
This stuff goes on really easy, and is incredibly strong. We will see how it holds up when some heat gets around it. I may end up going with the factory heat shield if I need to.

Step 3:
Next, I put some of the insulator on the gas tank, across from the factory heat shield. Make sure it’s clean so it can adhere well.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v627/namesinwetcement/DSCF1356.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v627/namesinwetcement/DSCF1353.jpg

Step 4:
Get your bolts and brackets for the exhaust and get your socket set. Mine was a 12mm socket. I didn’t get before pictures of the holes where the brackets need to go, but you can’t miss it. The after should look something like this.
Furthest back:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v627/namesinwetcement/DSCF1349.jpg
Closest to rear of car.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v627/namesinwetcement/DSCF1350.jpg


Step 5:
Grab your exhaust insulator A.K.A., the rubber hanger, your checkbook, and head out to your local exhaust shop.

Out with the old
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v627/namesinwetcement/DSCF1360.jpg

This was the guys at The Muffler Shop on Raguet in Lufkin sliding the passenger side of the exhaust into the appropriate hangers.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v627/namesinwetcement/DSCF1361.jpg

All mocked up, ready to be welded.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v627/namesinwetcement/DSCF1362.jpg

Getting welded on
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v627/namesinwetcement/DSCF1364.jpg


In with the new

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v627/namesinwetcement/DSCF1368.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v627/namesinwetcement/DSCF1366.jpg

Side Notes: The exhaust insulators I got from Autozone ended up being a fluke. They were made out of old recycled tires, it looked like. Luckily, the shop had some extras they used that were about a ¼” longer than the stock ones. I’d advise getting some from the dealership, or maybe even having the shop weld them on instead.

Because of the quarter inch difference, I will be going back and adding a quarter inch washer to the brackets on the passenger side.

The heat insulator I used is working great; it isn’t peeling back or anything. I will give more of an update after it’s been driven in rain and regular conditions.

Overall: It sounds great, not too loud; not too quiet. I actually feel like it gave me a little bit of pick up. I don’t know about actual HP increase, but it definitely looks good and fills in that extra cutout. I am extremely pleased with the outcome. If you have any questions, feel free to PM me. :)

Final Cost to me: $207.02 (I gave the exhaust guy a tip)

[ToddStone]

That's funny, I did my exhaust about the same time you posted this. I wish I'd seen this before. The shop that did mine made the left side not even with the right side. I'm going to have to take it back next summer when I get back from Iraq. It's bothered me, but at the time that I had it done, I was getting ready to leave.

Thanks for the write up. Wish I had known that before.

[LongLiveRock1974]

Nice write-up. A lot of people say they go without the heat shield but I'm going to buy a few rolls. I'm glad that stuff worked for you. I've been looking to an inexpensive alternative.

[cepp]

wonder does a r/t exhaust heat shield for the gas tank fit a sxt? looks like all the brackets that need added are the same, is that true? Does anyone have a part # for the rubber isolaters thru the dealer?

[Dantra]

The rear isolaters are about $25 each, fronts are $10 and the heat shields will run you $25 for the upper and lower (each). You're gonna be around $100 buyiing stuff from the dealer if thats the route you decide to go. Best bet might grab the stuff listed in post #1 and save some coin


http://www.moparpartsamerica.com/schematics/P/PT05330.gif

[cepp]

do you have the part number part of the page, or just the pic?

[Dantra]

Link sent via pm

[300 touring]

I can get my hands on a Borla set up for the LX platform. All brand new still in the box. I think I can get it for about $200.00. Do you think this would be something I should do? Would it be as easy as the stock set up. I'll be putting it on my '05 300 Touring w/3.5.

[65standard]

Great write-up. Why did they have to weld anything? Doesn't the 5.7 x-pipe fit the 3.5s mid pipes?

[MidnightSXT]

Great write-up. Why did they have to weld anything? Doesn't the 5.7 x-pipe fit the 3.5s mid pipes?
5.7 pipe is larger. 3.5`s pipe has to be expanded or welded

[P-Funk]

Did you experience any hp dropoff going to a larger diameter than the stock?

[ChuckWagon]

I recently purchased RT exhaust, courtesy of V8mag (Thomas) and I've been debating on whether or not to delete the resos. I heard a 300C (5.7) over the weekend with reso delete and it sounded good at WOT, but it didn't make much difference at "normal" operating inputs.
My exhaust goes on April 11 thanks to Klarmie (Keith) and I think I'm going to leave the resos on. I'm worried about it losing too much back pressure and also sounding like a weed wacker in a tunnel. I don't know about all of you guys out there, but my V6 frequently sees 6000 rpm, so I want whoever is behind me to say "hhmmm..that doesn't sound bad" not "....dam ricer wannabe".
Am I making any sense?

[cepp]

I agree with you Chuckwagon.. Good sound, not ricer.. Post pics of your install.. Trying to prepare my self for my install?

[Hell Ride]

sound clip?

[ChuckWagon]

I will post pics on the 11th...late tho. I've got nothing to record a video/sound with 'cept my cell phone, so I'll just say that there are plenty of sound clips out there of the 3.5 with the RT exhaust for those that are curious. I won't be posting that.

[shagmag07]

great write up thanks for the info i just picked up my RT exhaust from my buddy and next door neighbor jon (injunwiz)

[ChuckWagon]

First of all, I'd like to thank klarmie (Keith) for doing this for me.

Here are the results from my install. Sorry there aren't any pics, but thefever (who started this thread) did so well, that anything else would just be redundant.

I kept the resonators on the system and, while I like the sound, there isn't enough of it. I kept the suitcase in place also. To get better sound, I'd suggest replacing the suitcase with an aftermarket item first, before replacing the resos. If that dooesn't do it, you might need to replace the resos with something else aftermarket.

As far as performance gains go, I have noticed that there is a small decline at low speeds, while there is quite a bit more at highway speeds. I don't know if anyone elses car runs like mine, but my car seemed quite at ease at anything less than 55mph, but once over 65, the effort to gain speed seemed to be something the car didn't want to do. Now it seems as though 65 and up isn't as big a deal. Granted, once I get my Predator next week, that will more than likely change.
The seat of my pants tells me I didn't gain any horsepower or torque, just a little bit of rearranging them in the rpm range. I would much rather have useable power across the whole power band, than just something that comes on strong at low or high rpm.
I hope this info helps someone.

[radicaltuned]

I'm doing this too shortly. I expected low speed would suffer a bit because of the bigger pipe but not on the top end. I already have the predator so let us know if it helps. Btw what do you do for the left exhaust pipe opening? I was planning on using the bezel kit from Mopar.

[Kuldip]

Awesome write up and documentation. Very well done!! thanks for sharing the info.

Car looks good bro!

[ChuckWagon]

I'm doing this too shortly. I expected low speed would suffer a bit because of the bigger pipe but not on the top end. I already have the predator so let us know if it helps. Btw what do you do for the left exhaust pipe opening? I was planning on using the bezel kit from Mopar.

I used the bezel kit from Mopar. It took about 10 minutes to install. I was a bit nervous cutting the bumper cover. I didn't want to screw it up. Once I got into it tho, it was painless.
I drove to work this morning and 75mph on highway was effortless, compared to before when it seemed like it was struggling. i think an aftermarket air intake would help too. Can't wait for the Predator!

[thefever]

Glad everyone has got some useful information from me!

[shagmag07]

I recently purchased RT exhaust, courtesy of V8mag (Thomas) and I've been debating on whether or not to delete the resos. I heard a 300C (5.7) over the weekend with reso delete and it sounded good at WOT, but it didn't make much difference at "normal" operating inputs.
My exhaust goes on April 11 thanks to Klarmie (Keith) and I think I'm going to leave the resos on. I'm worried about it losing too much back pressure and also sounding like a weed wacker in a tunnel. I don't know about all of you guys out there, but my V6 frequently sees 6000 rpm, so I want whoever is behind me to say "hhmmm..that doesn't sound bad" not "....dam ricer wannabe".
Am I making any sense?

Did you experience any hp dropoff going to a larger diameter than the stock?


I used the bezel kit from Mopar. It took about 10 minutes to install. I was a bit nervous cutting the bumper cover. I didn't want to screw it up. Once I got into it tho, it was painless.
I drove to work this morning and 75mph on highway was effortless, compared to before when it seemed like it was struggling. i think an aftermarket air intake would help too. Can't wait for the Predator!

I'm doing this too shortly. I expected low speed would suffer a bit because of the bigger pipe but not on the top end. I already have the predator so let us know if it helps. Btw what do you do for the left exhaust pipe opening? I was planning on using the bezel kit from Mopar.

COLD AIR INTAKE- Let me make a suggestion on that, i went from the afe stage 2 CAI to the Big Bully intake, WOW, what a difference, soo if u get the chance to go with that one...DO IT!!!,

POWER WISE- Its more of a RPM thing for mine...anything past 3000 when i stomp it actually makes an effort it didnt have before to wanna gain speed...but yes the low end did suffer, but thats just a small sacrifice compared to what ur gonna get from the Top End.

SOUND- My sound was definately louder with the bigger intake, OBVIOUSLY, soo i agree with the earlier statement of replace ur suitcase before u replace ur RESO's bc i've heard of too many people sayin that the RESO delete was way too much noise. Although mine has headers and duals and BIGGGGG Intake, i personally am perty satisfied with my sound, though i may go with the Suitcase delete, i will put borla on their because thats what i had before and enjoyed it ALOT BETTER.

POWERBAND ISSUE- It's been to my experience in the mustang racing world that when i had a big problem with BOG in the WOT with all the mods i have.That a call to Doug Studdard up in Jasper, AL at bama chips would make all that go away. So I will spend 75 bucks and do his custom e-mail order tune and get back to you guys.

THANKS FOR READING MY OPINION- Although i am no expert i do have alot of experience in racing and tuning cars strictly at a SHADETREE STYLE, and with that said this is strictly my opinion on these situation based on that experience and im not tryin to contradict anybody, just maybe add a lil more insight for people who were like me before i did my install, i had a 5 Hour Drive to The MSO in Kissimmee to get the feel and sounds i wanted to get from the dual upgrade with a small intake then after i bought my BIG BULLY while down there i got to feel the difference in sound and power coming back.

Thanks
Cam

[shagmag07]

I used the bezel kit from Mopar. It took about 10 minutes to install. I was a bit nervous cutting the bumper cover. I didn't want to screw it up. Once I got into it tho, it was painless.
I drove to work this morning and 75mph on highway was effortless, compared to before when it seemed like it was struggling. i think an aftermarket air intake would help too. Can't wait for the Predator!

Can I see what ur bezel kit looks like? im thinkin of doin the same upgrade, how bout posting some pics if u dont mind...
THANKS
Cam

[ChuckWagon]

http://lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=77734 Bookeem posted pics in his thread with a link to the Bezel kit, which is where I ordered mine from.
I took a lot of pics, but they didn't come out well. Between thefever and Bookeems pictures, there's not much more that can be shown.

As a side note, my Magnum didn't need to have any extra shielding at the gas tank. There was the factory heat shield already in place. Klarmie (Keith) applied a small piece of heat shield (adhesive type) over the driver side reso, but even after sitting still and idling for a little while (10 minutes I think) I can just about put my hand on either reso, so I'm not too worried about heat.

And Cam, I believe you when you say that the aftermarket intake would make a BIG difference. Heck, just taking the drop in K&N from my wifes car and putting into mine, I noticed a major difference in low end response.

Thanks for everyones input and knowledge. if there's any other questions I can answer, let me know.

Chuck

[bigblewwho]

The 2 bolts for the hangers; they are 12mm long, correct? I saw 20mm long too but they looked too long.

Posted via LXFMobile

[ChuckWagon]

The 2 bolts for the hangers; they are 12mm long, correct? I saw 20mm long too but they looked too long.

Posted via LXFMobile

I think you are right. 20mm sounds way too long.

[Magnum P.I]

I think you are right. 20mm sounds way too long.

One way to make sure(this is what i did) is to take off one of the current bolts on the rear hangers and took it to the hardware store and matched it up perfectly..



ODD:thumbs_u:

[yambra]

So what does the exhaust shop do to mod the exhaust? Is this something that can be done at home?

[bigblewwho]

Got it installed this morning. Here's some photos: http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=167871

The bolts, were too short. 12mm in length is too short and you need to go up to 20mm. I took out the otherside like Magnum P.I. suggested. I also suggest getting some washers to go with those bolts for added strength.

I need to go back and add more heat shielding to the gas tank, as it looks too close. But, the stuff I got at home depot isn't staying on well, so that might have to be upgraded.

The bezel kits is actually really easy to do yourself if you have the tools. Just use some painters tape, follow the instructions and you are good to go. I did hate putting on those compression clamps on the inside though. I found all my stuff online for pretty cheap too (hangers, isolators, bezel kit).

We had to cut off part of the old exhaust and weld that on. This way, if I take this one off and get something else, all we need to do is un bolt it and boom. Since the pipes are different size, this was the easiest thing to do.

I did not notice a loud change. A slightly louder grumble on gas at lower RPM, but not much. Gotta keep driving it and I'll see how it sounds after that. Thanks Centurion and Ditos Motors!

[Familywagon]

I have a R/T exhaust taking up space in my basement if anyone wants it..Located in western Mass.

[ChuckWagon]

PM sent..

[65standard]

i've seen it asked here and not answered. the mopar part number for the rubber isolator is #4581790AB and MSRP is $25.15 each.

if anyone needs these, i have two brand new ones in the bag still. i also have two new hangers brackets #4581723AB.

[cepp]

are those the hangers for the right side? what do you want for the brackets and rubbers iso's?

[cepp]

Are those brackets for the right side? What do you want for the brackets and rubber isolaters? shipped.... Let me know

[65standard]

the left and right side use the same brackets and isolators. $45 shipped to the lower 48 states.

[cepp]

nope.. there are left and right brackets. at least on a '08 there are. ordered them thru the dealer and they arrived for the right side, not the left. and were labeled "R". there oops. look at the bracket. should be stamped either "R" or "L".

[65standard]

yeah, mine have the "L" on them.

[65standard]

i also have the two for the right side (with the "R" on them) but you shouldn't need them.

[SKULLBOY]

For those who want pic of the Bezel Kit Install:

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee274/EvilSkull666/Death%20Wagon%20Mod%20Pics/IMG_0378.jpg
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee274/EvilSkull666/Death%20Wagon%20Mod%20Pics/IMG_0385.jpg
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee274/EvilSkull666/Death%20Wagon%20Mod%20Pics/IMG_0386.jpg
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee274/EvilSkull666/Death%20Wagon%20Mod%20Pics/IMG_0387.jpg
Both sides need to be cut to install the bezel kit.......
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee274/EvilSkull666/Death%20Wagon%20Mod%20Pics/IMG_0390.jpg
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee274/EvilSkull666/Death%20Wagon%20Mod%20Pics/IMG_0389.jpg
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee274/EvilSkull666/Death%20Wagon%20Mod%20Pics/IMG_0388.jpg
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee274/EvilSkull666/Death%20Wagon%20Mod%20Pics/IMG_0391.jpg

For those going to Dual Exhaust on a V6, now is the time to think about installing the Charger SRT8 rear diffuser.........more cutting in involved, but IMHO it looks nicer then the MOPAR bezels.........requires removing the rear fascia, cutting out the entire lower recessed panel, and drilling mounting holes....

With going to the R/T or SRT8 Exhaust on a V6, larger tubing means a loss in backpressure........which usually means you will lose some of the lower end (off the line), but "should" find an improvement on top end............

[cepp]

skullboy, what did u cut the bumper with?
did you stay with the Y? or go with a full r/t exhaust? trying to decide on just using the r/t reso's with a y pipe or bolting the full exhaust up.


65standard, the bracket are a little expensive. i can buy them from blastin bob for $45.

[Blastin_Bob]

Nice thread, a couple things I can add or maybe didn't see.

Only the V-6 single has a heat shield inside the fender/bumper area due to all the heat coming off one side, the hemi's have do not have these on either side.
This company makes an adhesive heat shield product that they said would stick to the gas tank, http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/index.php (http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/index.php)

The SRT facia is a good idea but keep in mind the SRT tips stick out about 1.5" further from the hanger then the Hemi tips do, so unless your exhaust is custom the tips will be that much further under the bumper.

Did not see the bezel mopar part # 82210055

Stock hanger= good, price is fair, stock bolts and isolators are too expensive, I use stainless bolts, lock washer and flat washers for a fraction of the price of the stock ones. You can use the Saturn Vue rear isolators, I think they were less then $10 each ( 7 and change if I remember right), they match up perfect with the stock ones, length, width and pin size.

Bob

[bubbart]

if you have done the bezel kit,can you still do the charger rear diffuser at a later date.I wondering have I cut to much the bumper for the diffuser install.

[cepp]

I'm wondering the same... Anyone ever done that.

[65standard]

...65standard, the bracket are a little expensive. i can buy them from blastin bob for $45.

alrighty then...

[cepp]

you wanna make a better deal? or is that your bottom dollar?

[bubbart]

Did the bezel kit and the rt exhaust and I love it.Of course having the pred set for 93 tune and a CAI helped.Thank you for all the tips and there is enough bumper after the bezel kit install to do the charger srt diffuser add-on. On to the next install/rt brake upgrade,really stops like a boat.
Craig

[65standard]

you wanna make a better deal? or is that your bottom dollar?


i also have the isolators slightly used. they were mounted, but removed right away. the $45 is for the new in the bag isolators and brackets. less for the almost new ones. all are genuine Mopar parts.

[ChuckWagon]

i also have the isolators slightly used. they were mounted, but removed right away. the $45 is for the new in the bag isolators and brackets. less for the almost new ones. all are genuine Mopar parts.


I think that's a fair price for shipped! Sent to a friend so hopefully she'll get in contact with you.

Chuck

[65standard]

here is one way to make the R/T's H-pipe fit the V6's mid pipes. cut off the ends if the V6's Y-pipe, then cut off the ends of the H-pipe, then weld on the V-6's ends onto the H-pipe. the R/T's exhaust system is now a complete bolt on.

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q223/65standard/h-pipemod1.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q223/65standard/h-pipemod2.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q223/65standard/h-pipemod3.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q223/65standard/h-pipemod4.jpg

[radicaltuned]

Are there brackets towards the front that is needed? I have the one for the rear.

[Booper]

The rear isolaters are about $25 each, fronts are $10 and the heat shields will run you $25 for the upper and lower (each). You're gonna be around $100 buyiing stuff from the dealer if thats the route you decide to go. Best bet might grab the stuff listed in post #1 and save some coin


http://www.moparpartsamerica.com/schematics/P/PT05330.gif


I just left my mechanic and he flat out refused to install the RT exhaust on my magnum without the heat shield that goes over the suitcase muffler, I went to the dealership and they quoted me 380 bucks Canadian for it!?!?!?! Is that correct??? :panic:



Ben

[bigblewwho]

here is one way to make the R/T's H-pipe fit the V6's mid pipes. cut off the ends if the V6's Y-pipe, then cut off the ends of the H-pipe, then weld on the V-6's ends onto the H-pipe. the R/T's exhaust system is now a complete bolt on.

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q223/65standard/h-pipemod1.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q223/65standard/h-pipemod2.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q223/65standard/h-pipemod3.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q223/65standard/h-pipemod4.jpg
That's how we did mine and it is the easiest solution.

[bigblewwho]

Are there brackets towards the front that is needed? I have the one for the rear.

You will need two brackets and two hangers for the driver side rear. If you look under your car on the driver side, you will see the spots for the hooks. There is a hook in the front/middle already, you don't need anything additional there.

[300 touring]

I will post pics on the 11th...late tho. I've got nothing to record a video/sound with 'cept my cell phone, so I'll just say that there are plenty of sound clips out there of the 3.5 with the RT exhaust for those that are curious. I won't be posting that.




I have access to a Borla performance exhaust system (brand new, still in the box) for little money. How well will your "how to" stack up to putting this on my 3.5 300 Touring? Also how do you think it will sound? I don't want that "fart pipe sound" like the ricers have.