How-To Install Lowering Springs

[DMAG]

compiled by snickle

Dodge Magnum SXT with 245/40-20 tires
Before picture:

http://www.lxforums.com/images/How_To/springs/image001.jpg

1st step is to jack the car, support on jack stands and remove wheels:

http://www.lxforums.com/images/How_To/springs/image002.jpg

Fronts:

Remove the upper sway bar link:

http://www.lxforums.com/images/How_To/springs/image003.jpg

Then remove the bolt securing the upper A-arm and separate it with a pickle fork:

http://www.lxforums.com/images/How_To/springs/image004.jpg

Tie the upper arm with a string for now, so as to keep the brake line from stretching:

http://www.lxforums.com/images/How_To/springs/image005.jpg

Remove the top 3 shock mounting bolts, but leave one lightly attached to hold it in place, (also remove the lower shock mount, but its not pictured):

http://www.lxforums.com/images/How_To/springs/image006.jpg

Remove the strut assembly as a whole, then use your spring compressor to tighten the springs for removal:

http://www.lxforums.com/images/How_To/springs/image007.jpg

Old and new springs:

http://www.lxforums.com/images/How_To/springs/image008.jpg

New spring reassembled:

http://www.lxforums.com/images/How_To/springs/image009.jpg

Reassemble in reverse order of disassembly.

[DMAG]

Rears:

Remove the rear shock, it is held on by one nut/bolt on the bottom and two bolts on top:

http://www.lxforums.com/images/How_To/springs/image010.jpg

http://www.lxforums.com/images/How_To/springs/image011.jpg

Next remove the inner part of the lower control arm. Set a floor jack under to keep the spring from expanding and knocking the whole assembly loose when you remove the bolt

Here is the inner arm removed:

http://www.lxforums.com/images/How_To/springs/image012.jpg

For info, a pic of the top of the shock, installed:

http://www.lxforums.com/images/How_To/springs/image013.jpg

Rear spring comparison:

http://www.lxforums.com/images/How_To/springs/image014.jpg

The rear spring is removed by gently releasing the jack holding the arm up. then place the new spring in its place.

Next, we need to disassemble the rear shocks to trim the bumpstops (not necessary on fronts)

Before:

http://www.lxforums.com/images/How_To/springs/image015.jpg

Bump stop after:

http://www.lxforums.com/images/How_To/springs/image016.jpg

Once again, reassemble everything in reverse and you are done!!!!

After picture:

http://www.lxforums.com/images/How_To/springs/image017.jpg

Torque Specs from Badpenny:

FRONT

1) shock shaft: hold the shaft from turning, tighten retaining nut to 66 ft. lbs. (there is a special tool 9362 for this).
2) upper ball joint: hold stud from turning, tighten nut to 35 ft. lbs. +90 degrees.
3) stabilizer link: hold stud from turning, tighten nut to 108 ft. lbs.
4) lower shock mounting bolt: tighten to 128 ft. lbs. with car on ground at ride height.


REAR

1) spring link bolt at crossmember: tighten nut to 80 ft. lbs.
2) shock absorber upper: tighten bolts to 38 ft. lbs
3) shock absorber lower: tighten nut to 53 ft.lbs. with car on ground at ride height.

[SoCalRT]

You may want to use a tie rod end puller instead of the pickle fork. I picked up this one for around $10 at the local parts store. A few turns with a wrench and it popped loose, with no damage to the rubber seals.
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/SoCalRT/Puller.jpg

[Vaderwagon]

What happened to the pics of the "lowering spring" install?? The description is good but the pics are helpful.

[2003z]

sorry, i switched ISPs, then my computer crashed and I lost all my pics.

[ChargerOsix]

What happened to the pics of the "lowering spring" install?? The description is good but the pics are helpful.

On each box, right click and goto Properties. Cut and past the URL and replace dodgemagnumclub with lxforums. The pics are in order so just replace the number for the next frame.

[DMAG]

Sorry...fixed the pics in the posts. :)

[Black on Black]

I used the same tool and it worked out great. Those rubber seals/gaskets are filled with grease, so its always nice when you can do without damaging them.You may want to use a tie rod end puller instead of the pickle fork. I picked up this one for around $10 at the local parts store. A few turns with a wrench and it popped loose, with no damage to the rubber seals.

[StatueMan]

DMAG

Does the "bump stop" require trimming or is it something you did for ride, etc? What if it isn't done? What did you trim it with?


Sorry...fixed the pics in the posts. :)

[Jerry M.]

Is an alignment needed after installing the lowering springs?

[snickle]

An alignment is recommended, however that can be challenging as it won't quite come to factory spec. Camber is off.

[buellcyclone]

I just installed a pro kit last week. In an RT you have to loosen your exhaust to remove the inner A arm bolts so remember that. That took a little time. Use a impact driver to remove the bolts from the shock shafts, forget about the special tool Chyrsler says you need for the struts. Ensure that the spring compressor is compressing the springs slightly before you remove the spring holder on the strut to make sure the spring doesnt fly when you remove the holder. You do have to remove and cut the rear suspension stops or you will continuously bottom out.
When you installed your kit does your front suspension bottom out occasionally? Mine does. Just wondering. Also, do you find the ride a lot harsher? I installed a Pro kit on my 2000 Mustang GT and the ride didnt feel too much harsher but on the Magnum, I really feel the length of the car now compared to stock springs and the ride is way more rough.Let me know.

Thanks

[nkjs77]

Very helpful. Thanks alot~!!!

[Earache]

Although mechanically challenged, I am swapping out my RT suspension bits for SRT8.

Removing the spring\shock assembly is straightforward, but I am stuck on how to remove the top hat from the assembly. The retaining nut is recessed into the hat and compressing the spring does not make it accessable.

How do I get to the 18mm retaining nut in order to remove the hat?


earache
______________
2005 Midnight Blue RT

[Hemi31]

Although mechanically challenged, I am swapping out my RT suspension bits for SRT8.

Removing the spring\shock assembly is straightforward, but I am stuck on how to remove the top hat from the assembly. The retaining nut is recessed into the hat and compressing the spring does not make it accessable.

How do I get to the 18mm retaining nut in order to remove the hat?


earache
______________
2005 Midnight Blue RTIf you dont have the tools do yourself a favor and take the strut assemblies to a shop.They will swap them out quickly and for just a few bucks.Otherwise;put your spring compressor on and tighten down on the spring to take the tension off the hat(NEVER TAKE A STRUT APART WITHOUT A SPRING COMPRESSOR!IT IS THE FASTEST WAY TO LOSE BODY PARTS!)Then you will need a thinwall 18mm impact socket and impact gun.Spin the 18mm nut off take the hat off,replace the spring and put the hat back on.Put the nut bak on and spin it down with the impact gun.Then you can let the spring compressor off the old spring SLOWLY.I found that you do not need the compressor for the new spring as it's short enough to put the hat on without.

[Silver Bullit]

I am trying to install a set of Hotchess bars on my mag. The question is are the bars froma rwd mag the same as awd mags.:thumbs_u:

[Token]

I am trying to install a set of Hotchess bars on my mag. The question is are the bars froma rwd mag the same as awd mags.:thumbs_u:In a word..... NO

[lowriderman3]

An alignment is recommended, however that can be challenging as it won't quite come to factory spec. Camber is off.

Yea I just had mine lowered yesterday, and both front and rear is off. I did search and did not see any post about a real fix for it. A company does exist called Specialty Products who makes the kit for the front. My mechanic actually showed me the info on them. They sell front camber arms that will then allow for the adjustments. They are expensive as all heck though($295 each side from what it looks like). I see other companys make something for the rear, as does this one. Anyone try these yet?

Click link and then put in the info on your car. Pic is below of what one looks like.
http://www.specprod.com/PROD_DIR/PROD_PASSCAR.HTML

http://www.specprod.com/PROD_DIR/prod_dynamic/prod_photos/66030.jpg

[t walgamuth]

i was looking at my 05 awd 3.5 car and wondering how they raised the ride height from the factory. specifically i was wondering if they may have just installed thicker spring pads in the rear. it looks as if i could lower the rear an inch and the car would just look level.

tom w

[Fatrock]

If I missed a discussion on this I apologise 'cause I didn't see anything on it, but doesn anyone in this here forum have any experience with Eibach springs on the Magnum? I've used them exclusively in the past on other makes that will go unmentioned here, and unless I hear specific reasons not to go with them I will. Any help here folks? Thanks a million! Also, the Gallery doesn't like my pics, sp hit dub dub dub dot photobucket dot com, and search for "fatrock" and there you'll see a couple pics of my beast.

[Bubba's Dragon]

Fatrock look around a lot of people have used them, use the search tool also. I used them also, but had to take them off due to ride height being to low.

[bguild]

I got a question.. I have lowered my car and then unlowered it.. I did that to take my springs out because I finally upgraded to the R/T.. Anyway the rear I have questions about.. I had done the rear by loosening the whole rear sub frame then lowering that while sitting on the jack (off course you have to unbolt the exhaust). Anyway when putting my SXT back together I had issues of the subframe lining up and then one of the subframe bolts broke the thread insert out of the body.. Anyway I think this is a crappy way of doing the rear install. I saw you did it a different and probably better. DO you have to compress the rear springs when you unbolt that lower bar? Can you just explain the rear a tad more.. I also never trimmed my bump stops in the rear shock on the old car and it rode fine. I assume i will do this on my new one but can you guys give me some feedback again.. I really dont want to unbolt my rear sub frame again. if I do the rear again I will most likely take it someplace to have it done. The fronts I am getting pretty good at now (-: I think I can do a side in 30min if I hurry and get the top hat all lined up.
Anyway please let me know your help is appreciated.

[sothras]

:popcorn:

[bguild]

Okay guys I never lowered the rear of my car.. I did however do the front.. My reasoning. is that my subs in the rear lower it alot anyway. I was afraid it would cause it to rub or look uneven.. So anyway I dont have to learn about the rear lucky me. Anyway if you do the subframe thing be careful I did have the insert break loose and it wasnt covered under warranty. They luckily just took care of it for me because I bought a new car from them but be careful if you do the sub frame way. The way they do it on this knowledge base seems the safer way to do it. I will post a pic of just the front lowered and the way I took care of the back end (-:

[bguild]

http://www.brawlerbikes.com/new_mag/mag1.jpg
http://www.brawlerbikes.com/new_mag/mag2.jpg
Okay here is how I lowered the rear..
http://www.brawlerbikes.com/new_mag/mag3.jpg

[themongrel]

Great article! Saved me $$$ on paying someone to drop mine. Thanks

Before:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v477/themongrel/610c002.jpg

Today:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v477/themongrel/100_2033.jpg

[MrHemi2U]

A note for AWD installs. The bolt that holds the fork at the bottom of the strut dosn't have enough room to come out unless you take the tie rod end off at the spindel. Jus use the same tool you used to break the ball joint loose.

[energumeno]

Hi,

I am really thinking on doing this myself but am still worried about alignment.

Did you guys had to do some alingment in order to avoid negative camber after lowering? If so, did you have to take it to a shop to do it or could it be also considered as a DIY project?

[bguild]

I actually havent taken mine to the alignment shop yet but really should. The wheel is straight so I am not to worried about it.. When I lowered my first mag a SXT.. i did have the alignment way off so I just took it to a shop and had them align everything.. After doing two cars I feel like I have it down pretty good.. i would suggest to do it on a day that you have some patience and take you time. The main thing is make sure you have the top part of your stut aligned properly. Just make sure you look at how the top is aligned with the bottom part of the strut make sure when you put the new springs on that the top aligns the way it did from the factory.. That will be the hardest part with the front.. Also word from the wise use the spring compessor kit from advance auto you just put a diposit down on it and keep your reciept.. when you are done you bring it back and its free. Also if you dont have an impact wrench and a compressor dont even attempt it. It would take for everrrrrrrr..

Good Luck... its not hard if you have all the right tools. Like a 12 pack of your fav cheap beer.

[bguild]

Mongriel--- hey what sunroof do you have on that thing? My R/t has every option but the sunroof so I am curious.. Your care defenitly looks better lowered. I think magnum looks silly with all the space in the wheel wells.

[Fireman512]

Anyone chime in on this one. I wanna put my stock rear spring back on and I want to know if this can be done without totally removing the rear shock? What tools will I need?

[bguild]

I am trying to remember but I dont think you can get to the spings without completly on doing the rear shock. You have to lower the arm or subframe in order of the springs to come out of the car. removing the shocks is the easy part though. I would just follow the directions that just unbolt the rear control arm adn not mess with unbolting the whole subframe. Its fairly simple but take your time and follow the directions..
you will need an impact wrech and some sockets.

[KsMagnum]

Eibach has some allignment parts that you can buy. I am about to install the Eibach Pro-kit lowering springs and need to know which parts i need to buy, there is only one for the front so that is fairly simple :) but there are 2 for the rear, one that allows +/- .75 camber, and one for +/- 1.50 camber.

Thank you for your help

[Texas Tran]

ive having trouble getting the rear to line up after jacking up the arm.

can anyone give me any pointers? ive been going at it for over an hour now

[bguild]

Okay this happened to me so be very careful.. I actually got one bolt in then moved it.. upon doing that I broke the threaded insert that holds the rear in on the unibody.. Luckily I traded in that car and the dealership fixed it for free but they had to unbolt the rearend and reweld that insert in. MY susgestion is to not unbolt the subframe and only unbolt the rear control arm things. Anyway since you have already unbolted it I would get two jacks and a extra set of hands to position it. The problem is that when you have the rear sub frame sitting without any bolts it wants to tilt fwd.. You need a jack or something to push the fronts up into place. just make sure you dont break the inserts off like I did.. Take your time and gets ome help and the more jacks and hands you have the better. I idealing you should have a jack on the front part of the rear subframe and one on the rear then you will be able to get it lined up right. Having two people will help get it all lined up evenly..

Also make sure you have the right bolts.. The fronts are different lengths than the rears. I messed mine up the first time and was like why isnt this threading in.. well I had the wrong bolt.
GOOD LUCK

[pigpen]

So are the fronts longer bolts or shorter bolts?

[bguild]

good question-- I cant remember which is what.. I am thinking maybe the back ones are the longer ones.. can anyone else chime in on this? I personally like the idea of just unbolting the rear control arm things instead of taking the whole sub frame loose. I think since I removed my subs I know will put in my rear lowering springs.. I hope this goes better than it did on my SXT I used to own. I think after 3 times I should be a pro at it though (-;

[pigpen]

Couple of little things!!


Anyone using this guide for SRT suspension take off: Springs, Struts, Sways. You will have to drop the rear end. When you drop the rear end their are four bolts that bolt to the frame 2 long ones in the back and 2 short ones in the front.

Will be working on the front have the next weekend coming up.

[ARoss]

Any tips for getting the rear control arms to line up with the bolt holes on the subrame (we didn't drop the subframe)? Also, we are having trouble getting the rear arm to jack up high enough. The spring only compresses so much before the car starts to raise up.

[miplank]

I had the same problem...


I used a transmission jack...it took a few times to get it to "start" to line up properly. Chances are your never going to get it to line up w/a jack. What I had to do was get a pry bar and use that to line it up while I had someone else watch and shove the bolt through when it was lined up.

This is the worst part of lowering the lx. Just take your time, get some help and don't get too frustrated.

[INTREPER]

You may want to use a tie rod end puller instead of the pickle fork. I picked up this one for around $10 at the local parts store. A few turns with a wrench and it popped loose, with no damage to the rubber seals.
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/SoCalRT/Puller.jpg

Does anyone have a picture or drawing of how this tool is to be used on the LX? I just picked one up and I want to make sure I don't go using it incorrectly, being my first time and all :loser: I'm use to working on these :modding: :banana:

[keefboz]

Someone on this post mentioned they had lowered an AWD R/T. I have just searched for the lowering springs but all of them say "does not fit AWD".

Any suggestions?

[hops23]

Someone on this post mentioned they had lowered an AWD R/T. I have just searched for the lowering springs but all of them say "does not fit AWD".

Any suggestions?

I lowered my 05 AWD RT with KW coilovers two years ago. At that time there were no springs available for AWDs. The only options were coilovers or bags.

[hops23]

Does anyone have a picture or drawing of how this tool is to be used on the LX? I just picked one up and I want to make sure I don't go using it incorrectly, being my first time and all :loser: I'm use to working on these :modding: :banana:

Loosen the nut under the upper arm. Slide the jaws under the boot. Turn the bolt on the tool until it places pressure on the bottom of the upper arm bolt. Wrench until the arm bolt pops loose. You'll need a hex wrench on the bottom of the arm bolt to be able to take the nut off completely.

[Jaxon]

I'm having a problem with the rear's. I took the rear shock off. Compressed the rear spring a little bit with the a spring compressor. I took the nut off the bolt holding the A-arm to the frame. I placed the hydrolic jack under the A-arm. I can't seem to get the stud out of the A-arm. Should I take a hammer to it? 2 jaw puller? Will I stip the threads this way?

[X E Ryder]

I'm having a problem with the rear's. I took the rear shock off. Compressed the rear spring a little bit with the a spring compressor. I took the nut off the bolt holding the A-arm to the frame. I placed the hydrolic jack under the A-arm. I can't seem to get the stud out of the A-arm. Should I take a hammer to it? 2 jaw puller? Will I stip the threads this way?

Rear Springs right? You need to lower the rear cradle to unload the spring. Be careful, there's alot of stored energy in there so let it down easy. The Hotchkis website has downloadable instructions for the rear springs/swaybar that are alot easier than what the service manual asks you to do.

You can drop your exhaust system down onto jackstands, and lower one side of the rear cradle at a time for springs only. If doing rear sway, both sides have to come down a bit more.

I did my rear sway and springs/shocks in my garage. It is a little involved but quite do able.

[MopAr$pRinCe]

Nice..........

[riperoo]

Great thread, can't wait to tear into mine.

[pattywagon]

I do not want to do anything to the front but front to back 3/4 in. difference no one wants to break up sets but has anyone ever just cut a half a coil off rear spring. I heard 1 coil is about 2inches on other cars.

[54chris]

awesome thread i cant wait to lower mine! just waiting on the $$$

[randy-berg]

Just bought air ride for my maggy . Looks like no one yet wants my Hotchkis springs and bump stops . i put the Hotc kit in myself . 6 hrs. So im putting my air ride in with a few friends . once its apart and no takers on my springs . Then i;d spilt the set up if your still interested/

[unoscenario]

Just bought air ride for my maggy . Looks like no one yet wants my Hotchkis springs and bump stops . i put the Hotc kit in myself . 6 hrs. So im putting my air ride in with a few friends . once its apart and no takers on my springs . Then i;d spilt the set up if your still interested/
I would be interested in your springs and bumper stops.
What do you want for them?

[TheFleshRocket]

You may want to use a tie rod end puller instead of the pickle fork. I picked up this one for around $10 at the local parts store. A few turns with a wrench and it popped loose, with no damage to the rubber seals.
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/SoCalRT/Puller.jpg

Yeah, um, not so much.

I'm friggin' pissed. I have managed to bork BOTH upper control arm ball joints. Initially I was going to use a pickle fork as described in this thread, and THAT IS WHAT I SHOULD HAVE DONE. On the passenger side, I tried banging on the end of the ball joint bolt with a hammer to loosen it. (I read that in a thread here somewhere--and of course I don't still have the link open to it.) Not only did that not loosen it, it mushroomed the head of the bolt. No big deal, I thought.. I'll get out the Dremel and just cut off the 1/8" or so of buggered threads. I went out and got a ball-joint puller as pictured here and used it to pop the ball joint out. The only problem is that I apparently still cut off too much, and the hex head that is supposed to fit up there doesn't have enough room to do so. I didn't even realize a hex head was supposed to go up there to hold the ball joint in place until I was putting the passenger side back together.

So I used just the ball joint puller on the driver's side. Well, the ball joint was in there so friggin' tightly that the ball joint puller actually popped off while tightening it!! At that point, I was worried about the hole for the hex head, and sure enough the ball joint puller had buggered it!

At that point, I said "screw it" (actually I said quite a bit worse than that) and got out a pickle fork. A few dozen hard bangs and the ball joint finally came loose. The boot is torn, but at least the ball joint itself would have been fine had I just used the pickle fork in the first place.

Alright, thinks I, I can still fix this. I figured I could just pull the upper control arms, take them to the dealer, and have new ball joints pressed in. So I spent a couple of hours (maybe not QUITE that long, but it sure seemed like it) getting the four upper control arm bolts off. The one on the passenger side rear is a very tight fit and that one took me longer than all the others combined.

So imagine my angst when I decided to browse for ball-joint replacement information and found this thread: http://www.300cforums.com/forums/suspension-handling-modifications/53901-does-anyone-make-aftermarket-lower-upper-control-arms-awd-used-sale.html?highlight=ball+joints Apparently the ball joints themselves are not replaceable--I have to buy the entire control arm. And guess what, the sonsabitches are $126 EACH. http://www.parts.com/oemcatalog/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=2

So some guy's "use a hammer" advice is going to cost me $126, and the damn ball-joint puller idea will cost me another $126. Suddenly paying a shop $400 to do this in the first place doesn't seem like such a bad idea, especially considering I spent most of Sunday and then Monday night working on it and I'm still not done.

:blam:

Holy crap, I'm just ridiculously pissed right now. So much for being able to go to sleep. GRRRRR....

[4life]

Yeah, um, not so much.

I'm friggin' pissed. I have managed to bork BOTH upper control arm ball joints. Initially I was going to use a pickle fork as described in this thread, and THAT IS WHAT I SHOULD HAVE DONE. On the passenger side, I tried banging on the end of the ball joint bolt with a hammer to loosen it. (I read that in a thread here somewhere--and of course I don't still have the link open to it.) Not only did that not loosen it, it mushroomed the head of the bolt. No big deal, I thought.. I'll get out the Dremel and just cut off the 1/8" or so of buggered threads. I went out and got a ball-joint puller as pictured here and used it to pop the ball joint out. The only problem is that I apparently still cut off too much, and the hex head that is supposed to fit up there doesn't have enough room to do so. I didn't even realize a hex head was supposed to go up there to hold the ball joint in place until I was putting the passenger side back together.

So I used just the ball joint puller on the driver's side. Well, the ball joint was in there so friggin' tightly that the ball joint puller actually popped off while tightening it!! At that point, I was worried about the hole for the hex head, and sure enough the ball joint puller had buggered it!

At that point, I said "screw it" (actually I said quite a bit worse than that) and got out a pickle fork. A few dozen hard bangs and the ball joint finally came loose. The boot is torn, but at least the ball joint itself would have been fine had I just used the pickle fork in the first place.

Alright, thinks I, I can still fix this. I figured I could just pull the upper control arms, take them to the dealer, and have new ball joints pressed in. So I spent a couple of hours (maybe not QUITE that long, but it sure seemed like it) getting the four upper control arm bolts off. The one on the passenger side rear is a very tight fit and that one took me longer than all the others combined.

So imagine my angst when I decided to browse for ball-joint replacement information and found this thread: http://www.300cforums.com/forums/suspension-handling-modifications/53901-does-anyone-make-aftermarket-lower-upper-control-arms-awd-used-sale.html?highlight=ball+joints Apparently the ball joints themselves are not replaceable--I have to buy the entire control arm. And guess what, the sonsabitches are $126 EACH. http://www.parts.com/oemcatalog/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=2

So some guy's "use a hammer" advice is going to cost me $126, and the damn ball-joint puller idea will cost me another $126. Suddenly paying a shop $400 to do this in the first place doesn't seem like such a bad idea, especially considering I spent most of Sunday and then Monday night working on it and I'm still not done.

:blam:

Holy crap, I'm just ridiculously pissed right now. So much for being able to go to sleep. GRRRRR....


Im curious as to how the threads got mushroomed. I think when using the hammer to bang on the joint you are suppose to hit the flat spot sticking out. If you mushroomed the threads it sounds like you were smacking the bottom of the bolt in an upwards direction.

[TheFleshRocket]

Im curious as to how the threads got mushroomed. I think when using the hammer to bang on the joint you are suppose to hit the flat spot sticking out. If you mushroomed the threads it sounds like you were smacking the bottom of the bolt in an upwards direction.

Yeah, that's exactly what I did. I guess I should have known better, but I figured hitting the threads was the best way to force the ball joint out of its socket. I won't be making THAT mistake again.

[SloW8]

Does it work to hit the flat spot on the side of the arm with a hammer like the mfg shows?

[Z1NONLY]

I recently installed a set of Koni's on my 350Z and the guy that showed me how to do it had a nice little trick for the spring compressor.

With the car on jack stands, he put the jack under the lower part of the suspension and compressed the suspension first. (On my Z, we only had to do this a little) Then, he put the spring compressor parts on the spring and used his hands to get them snug on either side. We then lowered the jack and removed the strut.

On the Z, compressing the spring, allowed removal of the strut without disassembling other suspension components.

I don't know if this will help with the Magnum, but I intend to give it a try.

[hops23]

Might not work on an LX. It will just lift the whole car off the stands.

[Z1NONLY]

Might not work on an LX. It will just lift the whole car off the stands.


That would happen with my Z (and any other car) too, if I had kept on jacking up the wheel hub after it compressed.

I am sure there is some amount of compression that can happen before lifting the car off the jack stands. I just don't know if it will compress the spring/shock combo enough to remove it.

[Z1NONLY]

Update!

I just finished putting a set of bilstein shocks on or RT magnum. Using the jack and spring compressor while the shock is still on the car does not work for removal. I was still about a 1/4 to-1/2 inch shy of clearing the lower arm.

The "puller" tool shown in post #53 worked great though. (although I for got to tie off the arm on the first side.:doh: I was lucky the brake line survived.)

[C1Pendragon]

Yeah, um, not so much.

I'm friggin' pissed. I have managed to bork BOTH upper control arm ball joints. Initially I was going to use a pickle fork as described in this thread, and THAT IS WHAT I SHOULD HAVE DONE. On the passenger side, I tried banging on the end of the ball joint bolt with a hammer to loosen it. (I read that in a thread here somewhere--and of course I don't still have the link open to it.) Not only did that not loosen it, it mushroomed the head of the bolt. No big deal, I thought.. I'll get out the Dremel and just cut off the 1/8" or so of buggered threads. I went out and got a ball-joint puller as pictured here and used it to pop the ball joint out. The only problem is that I apparently still cut off too much, and the hex head that is supposed to fit up there doesn't have enough room to do so. I didn't even realize a hex head was supposed to go up there to hold the ball joint in place until I was putting the passenger side back together.

So I used just the ball joint puller on the driver's side. Well, the ball joint was in there so friggin' tightly that the ball joint puller actually popped off while tightening it!! At that point, I was worried about the hole for the hex head, and sure enough the ball joint puller had buggered it!

At that point, I said "screw it" (actually I said quite a bit worse than that) and got out a pickle fork. A few dozen hard bangs and the ball joint finally came loose. The boot is torn, but at least the ball joint itself would have been fine had I just used the pickle fork in the first place.

Alright, thinks I, I can still fix this. I figured I could just pull the upper control arms, take them to the dealer, and have new ball joints pressed in. So I spent a couple of hours (maybe not QUITE that long, but it sure seemed like it) getting the four upper control arm bolts off. The one on the passenger side rear is a very tight fit and that one took me longer than all the others combined.

So imagine my angst when I decided to browse for ball-joint replacement information and found this thread: Apparently the ball joints themselves are not replaceable--I have to buy the entire control arm. And guess what, the sonsabitches are $126 EACH.
So some guy's "use a hammer" advice is going to cost me $126, and the damn ball-joint puller idea will cost me another $126. Suddenly paying a shop $400 to do this in the first place doesn't seem like such a bad idea, especially considering I spent most of Sunday and then Monday night working on it and I'm still not done.

:blam:

Holy crap, I'm just ridiculously pissed right now. So much for being able to go to sleep. GRRRRR....

roffle. thx for the good laugh

[jg]

I completed my SRT8 spring/shock install on my '05 Magnum RT this past Friday night/Saturday. I puchased Charger SRT8 springs/shocks off of another member, and got a new pair of Magnum SRT8 springs form the dealer, to the tune of a little over $100 for the pair. I do have to say, the rear was easier than the front. Unexpected. This thread was great to read before starting the process. Thanks!

Rear...
Lowering the rear cradle was cake! Maybe I got lucky. With the rear of the car on jackstands, I placed my jack under one side of the cradle, on the pad just inside of lower arm mount area. Then loosened the two bolts that hold the cradle in place. The front bolt (the shorter of the 2 bolts) eventually came out of the body, by the time I got the cradle low enough to pull the shock first then the spring out. I never had the rear bolt loose enough to come out of its threads. I wanted to keep it in so that the cradle would stay lined up to aid reinstalling the front bolt and prevent crossthreading it. I then cleaned the lower spring pad and it's pocket in the lower control arm, and installed the new spring. I jacked up the cradle enough to start the front cradle bolt in the threads in the body, then jacked up the rest of the way and tightened the bolts. Same process repeated on the opposite side of the car. I never had to mess with lowering the exhaust! The cradle never touched it. This took me 2-2.5 hours Friday night, including the trip to fridge for a Corona, and a check of my watched items on ebay! - hehe!

Front...
Definitely have this tool on hand before starting this, it worked perfectly! (it was the smaller of the 2 available at my local Auto Zone)...
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/SoCalRT/Puller.jpg
I started this after a trip to a local car gathering on Saturday morning (unfortunately not in the Mag. as the rear was still on the jackstands). After getting the front of the car on jackstands and removing the wheels, I removed the sway bar link nuts, lower shock bolt, and loosened (not removed) the upper ball joint nuts. The driver's side ball joint popped right out with a slight upward tap of a rubber mallet on the upper control arm. Easy enough. The pass. side ball joint required the use of the puller pictured above. As noted in previous posts, be sure you're prepared for the knuckle to come at you when you pop the ball joints out! I had to wrestle with the shock/spring assembly and the suspension to get enough room to get the coilover out. This was a bit difficult holding the knuckle/brake assembly in one hand while trying to push it down (and not bend/pull the brake line too far), and holding the coilover in the other hand and trying to get it out over the lower control arm. I eventually won the wrestling match with the suspension. I must have loaned out my spring compressors to someone, and were never returned - ugh! I made a trip to Belle Tire for a top mount/hat switch from the shock/springs I removed to the SRT shocks/springs to be installed. The removal and trip to Belle Tire for the spring compressison all took the better part of the afternoon with stops at the bookstore and Target while waiting for the tire shop to do their work. Back to the garage... A bit more wrestling to get the new coilover in, reinstalling all nuts/bolts, and done! Wheels/tires back on and went for a drive. If you have compressors and know what you're doing (i'm obviously not a pro), this shouldn't take more than 3 hours.

Nice! Now for an alignment.

This knowledge base is a great source of info., and made my install go a bit easier. I thought i'd share my experience.

:thumbs_u:

[shagmag07]

This Is Very Helpful, Im Gonna Tackle Mine Next Week When The Parts Get Here

[Cam]

This Is Very Helpful, Im Gonna Tackle Mine Next Week When The Parts Get Here


haha, I see you found it already. I don't know if this was already mentioned. So sorry if it's been covered.

The front upper ball joint. Remove the nut 100% before you break the ball joint loose from the A arm. THEN spray some WD40 or whatever on the stud and install the nut again to where it's even with the end of the stud. Lift the boot up on the ball joint and spray some more on the shaft and give it time to penetrate. THEN install the ball joint puller. If the puller is unable to pop the joint loose, leave pressure on it and smack the A arm with a hammer and she'll pop. Then remove the nut.

Reason for doing it this way is the stud will be rusty and removing the nut is a PITA. Once it's removed and re-installled and 100% lubricated, that proccess becomes an easy one.

Good luck.

[Dantra]

Not sure if it's been mentioned but when I do springs I go to Advanced Auto Parts and rent the spring comp kit and front service pack kit (ball joint kit)...free rental if you return everything with no damage within 45 days. They charge you full tilt for everything but return it 100% upon tool return

[atwong1]

Yeah, um, not so much.

I'm friggin' pissed. I have managed to bork BOTH upper control arm ball joints. Initially I was going to use a pickle fork as described in this thread, and THAT IS WHAT I SHOULD HAVE DONE. On the passenger side, I tried banging on the end of the ball joint bolt with a hammer to loosen it. (I read that in a thread here somewhere--and of course I don't still have the link open to it.) Not only did that not loosen it, it mushroomed the head of the bolt. No big deal, I thought.. I'll get out the Dremel and just cut off the 1/8" or so of buggered threads. I went out and got a ball-joint puller as pictured here and used it to pop the ball joint out. The only problem is that I apparently still cut off too much, and the hex head that is supposed to fit up there doesn't have enough room to do so. I didn't even realize a hex head was supposed to go up there to hold the ball joint in place until I was putting the passenger side back together.

So I used just the ball joint puller on the driver's side. Well, the ball joint was in there so friggin' tightly that the ball joint puller actually popped off while tightening it!! At that point, I was worried about the hole for the hex head, and sure enough the ball joint puller had buggered it!

At that point, I said "screw it" (actually I said quite a bit worse than that) and got out a pickle fork. A few dozen hard bangs and the ball joint finally came loose. The boot is torn, but at least the ball joint itself would have been fine had I just used the pickle fork in the first place.

Alright, thinks I, I can still fix this. I figured I could just pull the upper control arms, take them to the dealer, and have new ball joints pressed in. So I spent a couple of hours (maybe not QUITE that long, but it sure seemed like it) getting the four upper control arm bolts off. The one on the passenger side rear is a very tight fit and that one took me longer than all the others combined.

So imagine my angst when I decided to browse for ball-joint replacement information and found this thread: http://www.300cforums.com/forums/suspension-handling-modifications/53901-does-anyone-make-aftermarket-lower-upper-control-arms-awd-used-sale.html?highlight=ball+joints Apparently the ball joints themselves are not replaceable--I have to buy the entire control arm. And guess what, the sonsabitches are $126 EACH. http://www.parts.com/oemcatalog/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=2

So some guy's "use a hammer" advice is going to cost me $126, and the damn ball-joint puller idea will cost me another $126. Suddenly paying a shop $400 to do this in the first place doesn't seem like such a bad idea, especially considering I spent most of Sunday and then Monday night working on it and I'm still not done.

:blam:

Holy crap, I'm just ridiculously pissed right now. So much for being able to go to sleep. GRRRRR....

Good joke for April 1. You had me for almost 5 minutes.

[Cxan]

I cannot get the REAR Lower control arm to line back up, any suggestions?

Please ahhhhrrrgghhhh..

[cepp]

i needed help too. just get the bolt into the bushing to the other side. now have one person hit the impact turning the bolt and the other person, grab ahold of the spindle and lift and twist. keep the jack under the arm with a little tension off of it. you can have someone watch the hole and make minor adjustments with the jack so your close, then start the impact. good luck..

[Cam]

Start the bolt, front to back. Get it started, then take a pry bar and put in that opening on the bottom of the lower control arm facing towards the back of the car. Use a jack to lif up on the pry bar and align the hole. Then like ^^^^ said, use a impact and screw it in.

[cepp]

its a pita, but with a friends help, it really only took about a hour to do the rear springs.

ive had to replace the dampers after my spring install. it rode like crap. go koni's!! inexpensive and a perfect set up for me. fyi

[Cxan]

Thanks Guys, Finally got it. We were doing this without a floor jack, and had no wiggle room when trying to man-handle it into place. Got my hands on one, and then we could get leverage and had it in place in 5 min.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v386/Xanthicus/Magnum/IMG00054-20090621-2041-721188.jpg

Worth every cut, scrape, bruise, and sore muscle.

[cepp]

^^^ agree, worth all blood shed.. hows it ride now?

[Cxan]

Rides nice even though I went the cheapie route -
DZ (DropZone) Springs 1.7 Inch
KYB shocks in front
Tokico shocks in back
Total ~ $350
DYI instructions from LXF = Priceless.

The front does seem to spring up in the air a little bit on a big bump, but it recovers instantly, none of that bouncing around you see on ricers. It keeps it's attitude on launch and brake, as well as tight corners. Ride is not harsh, just firmer, but I am still on stock 18's, so I'm sure those big ol' SUV tires are absorbing some of that.

Interestingly, the infamous LX low-speed bumpy clunky noises went away! Furthermore, sometime ago I hit a big pothole, and the car started pulling right (these 05 RT's tend to do that anyway) that went away also, now it rolls straight again!

Color me happy!

[kmac930]

Does anybody know if there are lowering springs out there for an AWD magnum? I see that they make them for the 300C AWD and did not know if that was compatible with the magnum? I called Eibach themselves and the lady there said they did not have a magnum at the time to test the springs with so they couldn't put it out? Any info would be helpful. Thanks

[cepp]

id check with peddlers... they may sell

[Ev0lv3]

Pointers from my install.

- use a ball joint puller, they work like a charm.
- make sure you have the 3 bolts on the "hat" of the strut lined up properly, or else you'll be taking everyhting apart again. haha. (taking the "hat" off the strut is such a pain, there has to be an easier way)

- for the back, lower the control arm, don't attempt to lower the cradle, who-ever gives you that info should be shot. So much easier undoing 2 bolts instead of undoing a whole rear end.

The front end is a little bouncier than it was before, might not be after a few weeks of settling in. How much more drop did you gain after a few weeks of driving? Also, if you have 22's what tire did you go with.. cuz 2" drop on 22" rims is gonna be close me thinks.

["show"]

Pointers from my install.

- use a ball joint puller, they work like a charm.
- make sure you have the 3 bolts on the "hat" of the strut lined up properly, or else you'll be taking everyhting apart again. haha. (taking the "hat" off the strut is such a pain, there has to be an easier way)

- for the back, lower the control arm, don't attempt to lower the cradle, who-ever gives you that info should be shot. So much easier undoing 2 bolts instead of undoing a whole rear end.

The front end is a little bouncier than it was before, might not be after a few weeks of settling in. How much more drop did you gain after a few weeks of driving? Also, if you have 22's what tire did you go with.. cuz 2" drop on 22" rims is gonna be close me thinks.
i have the 2" drop with 265-35-22. did you do the shocks and struts also?

[Ev0lv3]

i have the 2" drop with 265-35-22. did you do the shocks and struts also?
yeah thats what everyone is saying for size, and no I didn't do shocks or struts, maybe next summer when I'm tired of the semi-bouncy ride in the front. haha.

["show"]

the bouncy ride in te front will make your tires rub on corners.

[Ev0lv3]

the bouncy ride in te front will make your tires rub on corners.
This I know.

Dont even know if I'm going to get 22's yet or not.

["show"]

ok fine then. i wont try to help you anymore. lol :beerchug:

[Ev0lv3]

haha. Thanks Keith.

All i knows is, a house is top priority, even though I'm modding my car. I really need to get away from home.

ps- what struts are you running, and how much did you grab em for?

["show"]

haha. Thanks Keith.

All i knows is, a house is top priority, even though I'm modding my car. I really need to get away from home.

ps- what struts are you running, and how much did you grab em for?
eibach pro kit. i think just over $400 american. what did you go with for coils?

[Ev0lv3]

I got the sportline springs.

["show"]

same as me.

[cepp]

i replaced mine with koni's and the hard bounce front and soft rear went away... rides like i never lowered it.

[McKinneyMagnum]

What's the ballpark price for new springs to lower my RT Magnum? Nothing crazy low but lower than stock? Also, anyone know what a shop would charge labor wise to do it?

[Cxan]

I purchased lowering Springs off of eBay, and aftermarket shocks - Tokico, and something else (neither brand had both front and back, and I was not even interested in Monroe or other basic shocks), from some storefront I cannot remember right now, I could look it up.

Total was just over $300. A buddy and I did the work, was a pain, but worth it.

Beware of the DZ (dropzone) 1.8 inch drop, they dropped much further, well over 2 inches, I'm sure well over 2.5 inches in the 6 months they have been installed, otherwise they are just fine.