Hardwiring a Radar Detector in the Magnum

[DMAG]

Written by Dr Bonz

Well, I went ahead and hard wired my Valentine One into the Magnum today. It was pretty easy and took me about 30 minutes to accomplish. I ended up using the front cig. lighter as my power source. You'll want to use a source that goes off when you turn the key off in the ignition and this one is perfect.

You can't use the one in the center console (between the front seats) if you have the "smoker's package" since it is ALWAYS on (even if you don't have the key in the ignition). You can correct this if you want by changing the fuse in the back of the car to a secondary position making it just like the one up front.

Here are the "tools" you'll need.
A screw driver to help you unplug the wire harnesses from the back of the climate control and the cig. lighter
a wire stripper
a wire hanger to help you pass the wires.


http://www.lxforums.com/images/How_To/hardwire/1a.jpg

First you have to remove the plastic housing around the radio and vents. It's very easy and just pries right off by unclipping the clips:

http://www.lxforums.com/images/How_To/hardwire/1.jpg

Just lift it forward. You'll have to reach behind it to unplug the three harnesses. One between the two vents and two to the climate controls:

http://www.lxforums.com/images/How_To/hardwire/3.jpg

It helps if you put the gear shift back into neutral since when it is all the way forward in park it tends to get in the way.

Next you pull out the ashtray panel that contains the cig. lighter.

http://www.lxforums.com/images/How_To/hardwire/4.jpg

You then unplug the wire from the back of it. There is this pain in the A** plastic clip that you have to pry off with a screwdriver.

http://www.lxforums.com/images/How_To/hardwire/5.jpg


There is a red (hot) and black (ground) wire attached to the back. Here is what the plug looks like unplugged. I'm holding the plastic clip that you have to slide out to remove the plug:

http://www.lxforums.com/images/How_To/hardwire/6.jpg

Next I buried the wire from the detector. I reversed the detector's hanging bracket so I could slip it under the headliner in front by the windshield. In this location you can still see the panel from your driving postion but it makes for a nice stealth location as you cannot see the lights from behind the car and it is difficult to see from the outside unless you practically put your nose on the windshield.

Also, it keeps the detector as high up as possible which is ideal for the best range in radar and lidar detection.

http://www.lxforums.com/images/How_To/hardwire/7.jpg

Tucked the wire under the A-Pillar cover.

http://www.lxforums.com/images/How_To/hardwire/8.jpg

Then down the door under the plastic cover:

http://www.lxforums.com/images/How_To/hardwire/9.jpg

[DMAG]

Then I passed it under the dash toward the center console.

It is a tight squeeze getting it from that location into the space behind the ash tray.

I used a looped wire hanger to pass the wire into this space:

http://www.lxforums.com/images/How_To/hardwire/10.jpg

Voila!

The V-1 has a plug like a telephone with four wires in it. You'll only need two of them to power it. Obviously if you have another brand of detector this will be different.

http://www.lxforums.com/images/How_To/hardwire/11.jpg

I cut the plug off and from previous installs in my other cars I know that the green wire is the hot one and the red wire is the ground (I know it sounds weird but trust me on this Smile

The other two are yellow and black. You don't need them so I just taped them off separately.

I believe they are for use with the small remote display that comes with the V-1.

http://www.lxforums.com/images/How_To/hardwire/12.jpg

I then just slid the green wire into the slot on the plug that contained the red (hot) wire and the red wire from my detector slides into the plug that has the black ground.

I then just plugged it back into the back of the cig. lighter. I didn't reinstall that plastic clip. You won't need it as everything stays in pretty tight.

http://www.lxforums.com/images/How_To/hardwire/13.jpg

I now have power to my detector. I tested it by removing the key and opening the passenger door and it goes off along with all the other accessories as planned.

The cig. light still works as well:

http://www.lxforums.com/images/How_To/hardwire/14.jpg

I then put all the plugs back in and replaced the panels and here is the final result:

http://www.lxforums.com/images/How_To/hardwire/15.jpg

And the outside view:

http://www.lxforums.com/images/How_To/hardwire/16.jpg

[flhthemi]

You DO NOT need to break off the tab on the cigarette lighter plug to disconnect it. If you simply PUSH in on the plug and while pushing it squeeze/depress the release tab with your thumb and pull it back. The part you need to squeeze/depress is in the 12 o'clock position when the ashtray assembly is in the dash. Not all cig plugs will fit tightly without the locking tab still in tact.

[redinorange]

Nice how-to. Good job, Doc.

[SStlthy]

Nice write-up DMag! I'll be doing the same with my Valentine. The bracket: did you use the black bracket with the two suction cups?

[DMAG]

Nice write-up DMag! I'll be doing the same with my Valentine. The bracket: did you use the black bracket with the two suction cups?

I can't take credit....it was Dr Bonz's write up. I just spread the news. ;)

[Feisty 1]

How would I change the fuse to a secondary position for my console power supply?
You lost me on that one.

[Rice Eater]

Whats the scoop on the Valentine dectector...i never heard of that.

[SStlthy]

www.valentine1.com
Love mine.

[RadarmagneT]

In my Charger, I was able to tap the over head console for the accessory power. I cut the cig adapter off a replacement cable (from Radio Shack) and hardwired it to the Acc and Ground from the overhead console. Worked GREAT!!!...

I'll pull the overhead off again sometime and post instructions with the harness and wire colors to tap.

[thewagon]

Excellent writeup on the radar detector install. I've tried the headlight switch, but the voltage would drop after a few seconds. I want these as stealth as possible, not some large coil cord hanging down. As the other guy said, the clip remains behind the lighter socket and I used 3m connectors to splice thru the wire for a good connection.
Just one note if I may, please use electrical tape and/or wire nuts rather than cellophane tape for all connections. Less potential issues in the long run.

Andrew

[TivoManiac]

Greetings all. New Magnum owner here. Just got mine last Sunday. Trying to move my V1 and I'm wanting to be sure I don't break anything. You mention removal of the plastic cover that surrounds the vents, radio, etc. I'm afraid I'm going to break it. Where are the "clips" that are mentioned?

advTHANKSance!

[Aikidoka]

Whats the scoop on the Valentine dectector...i never heard of that.

Me either. I've always used the Escort but I havent had it in the car for awhile.

[TivoManiac]

Me either. I've always used the Escort but I havent had it in the car for awhile.

You can find out about the V1 at http://www.valentineone.com

[barnsy]

Just after some advice. I've just installed my satellite radio system and used the cig lighter as my power source. When I pulled the cig lighter out there was already a connection made to the DVD modulator (I think). i went ahead and hard wired my Satellite to the cig lighter. My question is how much stuff/accessories can you hard wire to this cig lighter? before overloading the wiring.....

[diamondrmp]

Thanks DC and everyone that has been so detailed and kind enough to take the time not only to write up but add pics as well.

You are a wealth of information. I have so many "How To's" printed and in a "Magnum How to File". The file has really come in handy a couple of times.

Also I look forward EVERY day to the WIT and Humor of you all. Especially the Rev himself. Rev, ever think about being a comedy writer?
I love you guys :huddle:

[frixion]

I followed this gentleman's instructions and wired the Valentine one into the top center console:
http://home.nc.rr.com/maneval69/overheadpower/overheadpower.htm
(thank you sir!)
Note: my pink wire did NOT have a green stripe...

Word of warning... when you disconnect the negative on the battery DON'T instinctively close the hatch! If you do find a small flat-head screwdriver and something to open the emergency release per these instructions (http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=12360&highlight=hatch+release+battery).

I got my Valentine 1 back in 98 when I bought my Mustang Cobra. Best investment I ever made. I also got the external audio (put in headrest) and external video (put on windshield - line-of-sight). I plan to do the same on the Magnum.

Rock on-
-f-

[RadarmagneT]

I'll have to fix my writeup, that should just be a plain "pink" wire.

Just to seed this thread with better info...

MODULE-ELECTRONIC OVERHEAD - BLACK 6 WAY
CAV CIRCUIT FUNCTION
1 D55 20WT/OR CAN B BUS (+)
2 D54 20WT CAN B BUS (-)
3 A117 20RD/DG FUSED B(+) (I.O.D.)
4 Z909 20BK/LG GROUND
5 F880 20PK FUSED ACCESSORY DELAY RELAY OUTPUT
6 -

[70GT6]

I did mine today.
Scary pulling on the dash panel :!:, but it popped off ok. I used the + and - off of the lighter. I wired an Escort x50 8500 using the smart wire option which as it turns out is pretty cool. There is an extra power light, warning light and mute button on the "remote" display. Luckily there are holes in the back of the little cubby hole above the lighter/heated seat buttons. The display fit perfectly and is really easy to reach for the mute option. I have also found this is a great option for when the visor is down and blocking the on unit display.

:grin:

[Darthvader]

I have an escort can I tap in to the overhead lights too

[COOKZ32]

THANKS DMAG,
I wired mine in this morning and it works! Didn't break anything, lucky for me! I haven't done anything like that since high school, my better half says I'm like a little kid again. These cars make you wanna play with em when your not driving em.

Thanks for the clear instructions, oh yeah, it's a passport, it was sitting in a box for a few years.

[joescat]

A couple of things to add, in case it helps anyone . . .

I rewired mine today. I wasn't originally happy with the Radio Shack tap-in connectors I used - too bulky. I found better one at the hardware store. I don't have a brand name, since they were found in the hardware drawers individually. They are a "wrap around" kind, that you plug a spade lug into. Smaller, and allows you to disconnect your wires if needed.

And, I used those bulky connectors in the overhead console the 1st time - way too crowded, can't really push the overhead quite all the way in.

This time around, I followed another tip (from another thread somewhere), and tapped in inside the passenger side A pillar. This is the much preferred location! The cover is ultra easy to remove, there is more room to work in there. Plus, it's not up as high and doesn't have the overhead console always in your way, so it physically easier to work with. Tucking the wire behind the headliner is incredibly easy too.

-------------
Specific to a Valentine One:
I couldn't find my original hard wiring parts, so pirated a telephone line cord. Each end of a cord like this has the wires in opposite connections. Using the one with the red wire facing towards the front of the V1, the green wire goes to the pink with green stripe (my 2006 Charger has the stripe on the wire). The red wire goes to ground, black with green stripe. I've read that is the way a stock V1 hard wire cable works also.

[Banshee]

I was going to wire my detector in the overhead console in my RT. When I removed the console , mine as only 3 wires going to the over head lights, which none are cut on and off with the ignition switch:doh: ..So, now I have to find another soruce. Anyone know how to remove the "A" pillar cover?

[joescat]

If it's like the Charger, just pull it off. Mine has a black plastic retainer near the top (and the entire retainer came out, I had to remove its base and reinstall it into the frame. Around the middle, there's a more typical retainer that just snap in and out.
The bottom is held in by tabs that go into recesses in the dash.

[Banshee]

I pulled on it some, but didn't want to pull to hard till I checked.

[joescat]

I guess you'll have to get a Magnum specific response to be sure.

I'd bet DCX makes them all very similar - that is just more efficient.

Another way to tell - are there any screws or fasteners that you can remove? Probably not.

[Banshee]

I didn't see any. I remember when I had it back at the dealer for them to fix the dash pop, he had the cover off real fast. I just didn't get up the car quick enough to see what he did.

[quarky42]

Pull. You can search the forums for the "service manual link" and download a full service manual on how to get into just about any panel or part in your car.

[Banshee]

Pull. You can search the forums for the "service manual link" and download a full service manual on how to get into just about any panel or part in your car.

well crap, I forgot about that. I even have it in pdf. thanks, i'll check it out..:doh:

[Chrisjh]

Just finished the hardwire. Good instructions for access, V1 wiring, etc.
I did put an inline fuse in the hot wire just as it tapped off of the cig lighter harness, and I soldered and taped the connections. Plenty of room back there for extra parts. Seemed to me that depending on the 20amp cig-liter fuse for that long telephone cord with plenty of chanches for a cut/short was a bit too much.

[DA X 6]

Over on the Charger forums there's been a bit of discussion about the best way to hardwire your RD. Some favor the methods described above, some run wire from the fuse box in the trunk, and one guy (NaperGuy) swears by pulling the passenger-side 'A' pillar and tapping into the wires there.

That's what I did. The positive wire is the pink one; the negative is the black one with the green stripe. I used 18-gauge wire , and tapped into the pink & black wires using Tap-In Squeeze Connectors from Radio Shack (Part #64-3053). No need to cut vital wiring with these; they just let you hook up to them. Highly recommended.

This is the simplest method; there's no need to disassemble the dash, nor the overhead console, and you'll use much less wire than the old-school "from the fusebox" method. The 'A' pillar opens right up with light pressure on the top, and it snaps back into place. No muss, no fuss.

[Banshee]

[quote=DA X 6]
That's what I did. The positive wire is the pink one; the negative is the black one with the green stripe. quote]

are these hot all the time, or are they switched?

[DA X 6]

Good point, I should have mentioned that they're hot only when the ignition is on (which is what you'd want for radar). Presumably one of the other colored wires is hot since something must supply power to the HomeLink transmitter...

[joescat]

I've wired mine both to the overhead console, then re-did it at the A pillar. A pillar is the preferred location. There isn't much room for the connectors, and I ended up putting stress on them when reinstalling the overhead console. That ended up causing an intermittent open after the weather got warm. So, while I was re-doing it anyway, I went to the A pillar. Another benefit is it's a lot easier to work on over there, and not overhead with that console banging your hands.

[mluker]

If your RD or Garmin NAV have a cigarette adaptor for power can you just cut it off and use those wires?

[DA X 6]

If your RD or Garmin NAV have a cigarette adaptor for power can you just cut it off and use those wires?

Absolutely. That wasn't an option for me, because my OEM power cord crapped out (which was the reason I finally got off my butt and hard wired after 13 months of ownership). That may not be the best option, though, if the cord you have is coiled...

[Forty4]

Very nice thread of posts here...Great information on the install. It will come in handy for sure.

A minor question but, I thought I read don't place radar detectors NOT too low on the dash of some cars (metal wiper blades blocking) or NOT too high up top on the windshield because of the darker tint band across the top of the windshield?

Anyway, again nice post from all!

Thanks!

[joescat]

Very nice thread of posts here...Great information on the install. It will come in handy for sure.

A minor question but, I thought I read don't place radar detectors NOT too low on the dash of some cars (metal wiper blades blocking) or NOT too high up top on the windshield because of the darker tint band across the top of the windshield?

Anyway, again nice post from all!

Thanks! Valentine recommends mounting the radar/laser detector as high as possible. BUT, the tint at the top of some windshields should be avoided FOR LASER detection. It has no effect on rader. Anything metal will reduce radar reception though, such as the mentioned wiper blades. A clear view of the road ahead and behind is ideal.

[h2osho]

I just installed my Sirius SV1 model (looks like a radar detector) and placed it on the RIGHT side of my mirror. I then ran the antenna and the power cord down the left side A pillar. The power cord I then snipped off and ran it under the glove box and behind the ash tray. (Removing the bezel) I tapped into the wires and it was a piece of cake with NO wire hanger needed to pull it through the cabin.

Try it through the passenger side....you'll like it!!!

[TxSwimDad]

I'm interested in hearing if any of you have installed a ZR3 yet? About to switch to the Escort 8500 and might add this, too.

Specifically pictures...

http://www.escortradar.com/zr3.htm

[dewm1]

Hi guys,,, could any of you tell me which wires( +/-) I need to use for my Escort passport 7500? There are 4 in the stretch cord.
And just for the heck of it, I tried a ordinary household 4 pin telephone plug wire,,, and it works,, looks the same everything. Could I use it in place of the stretch cord?, or would there be too much juice running through it?
It looks the same size wire.

Thanks guys.
David.

[dewm1]

Got it,,, Red and Green.
Still dunno about the wire size,,, sure look the same,,.
Oh well,,, God hates a coward.

Hi guys,,, could any of you tell me which wires( +/-) I need to use for my Escort passport 7500? There are 4 in the stretch cord.
And just for the heck of it, I tried a ordinary household 4 pin telephone plug wire,,, and it works,, looks the same everything. Could I use it in place of the stretch cord?, or would there be too much juice running through it?
It looks the same size wire.

Thanks guys.
David.

[Don Omar]

Does anyone knows the answer to this question? Thanks!

Just after some advice. I've just installed my satellite radio system and used the cig lighter as my power source. When I pulled the cig lighter out there was already a connection made to the DVD modulator (I think). i went ahead and hard wired my Satellite to the cig lighter. My question is how much stuff/accessories can you hard wire to this cig lighter? before overloading the wiring.....

[HKLEVI]

Over on the Charger forums there's been a bit of discussion about the best way to hardwire your RD. Some favor the methods described above, some run wire from the fuse box in the trunk, and one guy (NaperGuy) swears by pulling the passenger-side 'A' pillar and tapping into the wires there.

That's what I did. The positive wire is the pink one; the negative is the black one with the green stripe. I used 18-gauge wire , and tapped into the pink & black wires using Tap-In Squeeze Connectors from Radio Shack (Part #64-3053). No need to cut vital wiring with these; they just let you hook up to them. Highly recommended.

This is the simplest method; there's no need to disassemble the dash, nor the overhead console, and you'll use much less wire than the old-school "from the fusebox" method. The 'A' pillar opens right up with light pressure on the top, and it snaps back into place. No muss, no fuss.

Well I finally got off by butt and hard wired my detector tonight using the above method. I didn't want to go the over head route or the cig lighter one if possible. I followed the directions and tapped the black/green for negative and the solid pink for hot....NADA! I got no connection. After rechecking everything 5 times, I finally busted out my test light (circa 1960 something) and found that the pink wire had to power in it???? I proceeded to run through all the wires running the A pillar and found none switched with the key (did find one that made the lights/radio do a weird moment). So I re-read several threads on a couple forums and saw a mention of a pink with green wire as the ACC hot. None in the a pillar but as I looked at the bottom where there is a connector, I found 2 more wires in the lower half. So I busted out the test light and sure enough, one was an ACC hot. They both looked red(maybe a dark pink) with a green stripe, the one on the right being the one I used. So this is the wire I tapped; kinda a PITA to get to as it was below the big white connector that doesn't have much pull out room, but I got it done. Only pisser is I wound up hacking/probing the wires up in line in the a pillar, but nothing that a little electrical tape won't fix. My car has a build date of Jun '05 and came with the u-connect harness in the dash allowing me to add u-connect, so I don't know if there was a change in the wiring on the passenger's side since the early models.

Love the clean look of the dash as I've had a wire hanging there since I bought the car.

[stevesrt8]

best idea ever.... invisicord.com

[BigMagDaddy]

I just finished this mod. Took about 30-40 minutes because I was a bit unsure how to get the console out, but took my time so as not to break anything. I tapped into the red and black wires instead of sliding them into the slots like shown, I didnt realize thats what was meant until after I re-read everything for the 3rd time now! :blam: Then I just ran the hard wire under the glove box, up the door channel and A pillar and across the headliner. Easy Peasy!

I tried the A pillar tap, but didnt see any pink wire so did I did it this way instead. Excellant write up! Thanks!:thumbs_u: