Left pull continued...

[OLJustice]

Well after getting 2 rear hub bearings and a front right tie rod end, my car still pulls to the left. This is my third and final visit to the stealership as they obviously have no f*cking clue whats going on. Just to recap whats been replaced in the last 3 visits:

steering rack/gear
2 rear shocks
1 front left strut
sway bar end link bushings
front tension struts
1 front left tie-rod end
2 rear wheel hub bearings

I've also had my car aligned at a Meineke TWICE, and a Strauss Auto TWICE.

Now personally? I dont think there was anything wrong with these parts to begin with. I truly believe they are just finding things to do to charge the warranty company (I'm not under factory anymore) and increase their numbers.

I understand from reading a thread on charger forums that the TYPE of pull is important to diagnosing the cause so here goes: The pull is to the left. The wheel itself is straight... meaning if I let go of the wheel on the highway doing 40 or over, I'll be in the left lane next to me in about 5 seconds. The faster I go, the more pronounced the pull. HOWEVER the steering wheel itself is centered. So basically I have to constantly drive around with the steering-wheel about 20* angle to the right to compensate and straighten her out constantly. This causes the wheel itself to fight me (as it naturally wants to return to dead center). So essentially I am driving around with the wheel 20-30 degrees to the right constantly fighting the wheel which is pulling to return to dead center.

I hope all that made sense. This is opposed to the type of pull where the wheel itself is off-center.


Any suggestions?

[moonstreaker]

Just out of curiosity...did they check out your driver's side shock/spring and the mounts? You could have a sagging spring, busted shock, or even a cracked mount on that side. That could lead to uneven weight distribution, possibly causing the car pulling to the left even though it is aligned properly. Hit any major pot holes or get into any fender benders right before the problem started? Also, make sure they check the hub on that driver's side front rotor. There are so many if's that it's not even funny. I know this is driving you nuts at this point, but try to stay sane. I'm sure everyone here will do the best they can to help you figure this one out. Best of luck to you.

[sidetrack]

It amazes me how dealers struggle finding the right fix for our cars. Image how much money Chrysler could save in warranty claims if they could provide the proper training and diagnostics tools to solve suspension problems. The dealers are working like computer field service technicians that carry a car full of spare parts to enable them to completely replace all the hardware on a computer system. They just keep replacing parts until the problem goes away.

Anyway, it looks like they need to look at the more unlikely areas.

How about the power steering gear?

Or maybe ESP is screwed up and applying the brakes on the left side. Try disabling ESP, for what it is worth.

http://www.300cforums.com/forums/attachments/general-discussion/28848d1210215919-2005-300c-awd-worth-doing-tsb-steering-suspension-steering-diagnosis-pg-2.jpg

[OLJustice]

Just out of curiosity...did they check out your driver's side shock/spring and the mounts? You could have a sagging spring, busted shock, or even a cracked mount on that side. That could lead to uneven weight distribution, possibly causing the car pulling to the left even though it is aligned properly. Hit any major pot holes or get into any fender benders right before the problem started? Also, make sure they check the hub on that driver's side front rotor. There are so many if's that it's not even funny. I know this is driving you nuts at this point, but try to stay sane. I'm sure everyone here will do the best they can to help you figure this one out. Best of luck to you.

The mounts should be good. I should note that since they replaced the shocks/struts, I have since replaced them with SRT8 takeoffs (shocks/struts/springs). Problem did not go away although handling is significantly tighter. Could loose bolts/nuts anywhere in the front cause this?

I get road wander as well as the pull. But I'd like to fix this pull first then address the wander. Its very annoying and sometimes dangerous (when maneuvering through traffic) to drive with the wheel 20-30* to the right to keep straight while fighting a steering wheel that wants to center itself.

I will ask about the drivers side hub

Anyway, it looks like they need to look at the more unlikely areas.

How about the power steering gear?

Or maybe ESP is screwed up and applying the brakes on the left side. Try disabling ESP, for what it is worth.

Never thought about the power steering gear. Could that really cause a pull? I will disable ESP via diablo and try it out today. Also, does anyone know a good test for the hubs? I know about the tie-rod test (lift car and grab tire at 9 & 3oclock and shake). Is there any type of DIY hub test I can perform?

[AlbertaAMX]

Hub / Wheel bearing. I am sure that you can grab it top and bottom, same as sided to side for Tie-Rods and it will show any slack in the hub.

[sidetrack]

I assume you have rotated your tires?
I just read through your other thread again and I don't think you mentioned tire rotation, or testing for defective tires.

[OLJustice]

I assume you have rotated your tires?
I just read through your other thread again and I don't think you mentioned tire rotation, or testing for defective tires.

My tires could be better. Slight high spots and uneven wear on some of them. Thing is, I've had this problem waaay before I got these tires (since I was on my original 18s) so I know for a FACT its not the tires although the tires could be exacerbating the problem. I plan on getting new tires within the month.

Hub bearing test on the front test out ok. Well... based on what has been replaced at the dealer and my own inspection(s). I think I can pretty much officially rule out any suspension components as the culprit. I understand there is a new alignment TSB that was released late last year that involves shifting the rear cradle to adjust for camber/castor. This will be my next step. In none of the MANY alignments I've had to fix this problem (about 6 alignments in the last 6 months) have they ever shifted the cradle. Since pretty much my whole underside of the car is new due to tons of replacements, lol... I'm betting everything on this alignment - TSB 02-004-07.

If that doesn't fix it then I'll start looking towards the steering column itself and all associated parts.

I'm sure the new tires will help a little bit too. Hopefully I can get that with my economic stimulus check ;)


Thanks for all the help guys. Any more suggestions on this left-pull issue... feel free to chime in :)

[05magmn]

Have the dealer look at TSB# 02-004-07 Your front suspenion cradle may need to be shifted. Also are your brakes warped? I had a car that started to pull from warped brakes.

[OLJustice]

Have the dealer look at TSB# 02-004-07 Your front suspenion cradle may need to be shifted. Also are your brakes warped? I had a car that started to pull from warped brakes.

Front rotors and pads were replaced in December. Doubt they're warped (although crappy stock pads are already down to 35%). Prior to the replacement I had a pretty bad vibration and thats gone so I'm pretty sure the rotors are still good.

At this point i'm thinking its either that it needs a cradle-adjustment/alignment per the TSB or something related to the steering column