Ultimate Stealth ShiftHammer Group Buy

[atwong1]

Guys and Gals,

Price has got better, please read latest news below. Only $180/pair, and possibly $150/pair if we have 20 buyers. Authentic Mercedes AMG part.

After a lot of research, I have finally located the part number of the Ultimate Paddle Shifter per RSFDOC.

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i96/deespence199/wheel1.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i96/deespence199/wheel2.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i96/deespence199/wheel3.jpg

It came from a Mercedes Benz S63 AMG Steering wheel.
Part # 221-267-00-46
It's retail price is $254.25 per pair plus tax. Not bad compared to the stealth buttons RSFDOC used which cost $105 each, which means $210 per pair.

Once you get them, you must thank CplDaugherty while you do this:
http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=64740&highlight=shifthammer

and thank nclimey while you do this:
http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=106644&highlight=shifthammer

finally, you want to thank DeafCharger while you do this
http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=105804&highlight=stealth+shifthammer

Here is the best part of this message. I told the parts guy about our forum and if I can buy in bulk to save some money. The guy I talked to did some research and said if I do not care for the retail boxes, I can get them in individually packed plastic bags for $200 per pair including tax. But the catch is I have to buy in multiples of 10 pairs. So, here is the deal. I am starting a group buy here. Please reply if you are interested. I have never initiated a group buy before so if we have 10, I will need some experienced person to help me figure out how to collect the money and make the purchase together. I figured the shipping will be about $15 via UPS with insurance and packaging. Please PM me your addresses if you want the exact amount before signing up. Since there are only 10 pairs in a case, I cannot order 11 or 12, so once we hit 10, please stop. Of course unless we hit 20. I do not mind buying 2 cases in one trip, but I don't want to make a second trip unless someone pays for the gas. Order will be placed on Friday May09, 2008.

This good deal doesn't stop here, Hammer Automotive has agreed to let the 10 lucky fellows who win this deal to get the ShiftHammer Standalone Kit (w/o buttons) for a super discounted price of $250 shipped. Details here:
http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?p=1532619#post1532619

This is the Ultimate deal. So, please hurry and don't be the 11th person to sign up.

Latest News: Melvin (The Mercedes parts guy) called me today (May02, 2008) to see if I want to place order yet. I told him we are still quite far from the 10 pairs that we need for the special price. He made me another offer. If I order 10 by Friday of next week, he will get them to me for $180 per pair (employee internal pricing I guess) picked up from their dealership. If I order 20, the price will be $150 per pair. So please hurry up to help all of us get this unbeatable deal. I am shooting for the $180 price because I do not think we have that many hands on people here who have the time and funding do this mod, but some of you may start thinking about helping some other forum members out in time with their install, using the extra $30 discount as an incentive. Plus the special pricing for ShiftHammer, you are getting the Ultimate deal for only $400 even. Heck, I will even throw in the screws needed to mount it on our wheels if we get 20. I will get them from HomeDepot of the right size and length and try it on my own wheel, and I will take pictures so you all see how to mount them. I am getting all excited. Anyway, next Friday is the order day. Melvin said even if we get only 5, he can still sell them to me for $200/pair, and keep whatever left in stock for himself. To me, I think this Paddle ShiftHammer combo package is still a must have for hard core racing.

Here is the sign up list which I will update daily:
--------------------------------------------------
1.atwong1-----------paid(self)---installed but not working (08 tranny wiring color scheme changed need research)
2.hemiwagn----------paid--------shipped-------arrived
3.talktoandy---------paid--------shipped-------arrived
4.jaak---------------paid--------[-]shipped[/-]-SHEEPED-------installed and working
5.hemiwagn----------paid--------shipped-------arrived
6.3car---------------paid--------shipped-------arrived
7.Joe Cool-----------paid--------shipped-------arrived
8.
9.
10.
------------------------------------------------
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
------------------------------------------------

Anthony

[Ultimatecarman45]

Can you take a picture of them a bit closer from the side to see how deep the switches are.

[ControlledChaos]

Those are pretty sweet right there. I have this mod on my list of stuff to do but I don't think I can pull the trigger on the buttons just yet. Good Luck to you though on this and I will be watching this thread for updates.:thumbs_u:

[JetBlack300c]

Can you take a picture of them a bit closer from the side to see how deep the switches are.


those switches are about 4.5mm thick, unlike the other Mercedes switches that some have installed, these do not require grinding the steering wheel plate down, as they fit simply by removing the foam.


and for those that have the other buttons, these are exactly the same shape as the others as far as mounting is concerned, so you can remove what you have and replace with these without having to alter what you have already cut.

yes I have installed these for someone.. and compared them to the ones I have...

they are nice, but not $200 nice for my pocket book. I'll stick with my $50 set procured from a Mercedes amg steering wheel..

[atwong1]

Here they are. Looks like the same depth as the buttons, but this time, we may actually have to use the screw hole to hold it in place.

Anthony

[hemiwagn]

Count me in!
Q: what holds them in place to the steering wheel? Are they fastened with screws?

[JetBlack300c]

Count me in!
Q: what holds them in place to the steering wheel? Are they fastened with screws?


I couldn't get the screw to work, not long enough, nor could I find a suitable replacement that would not damage the unit..


so I used black silicone seeing as there is no reason to ever remove them....

[atwong1]

Count me in!
Q: what holds them in place to the steering wheel? Are they fastened with screws?
I don't know. I haven't removed my steering wheel yet to try. I just put it next to my steering wheel to make sure that they will fit. I imagine with the paddle action, we do need to drill a thru hole from the front under the audio control buttons to hold it in place just in case we press too hard it will not pop out.

[Ultimatecarman45]

Shame they weren't thinner. Plus with the added fact that you are now pulling on them farther they would need a tougher hold on the steering wheel. I'll have to keep looking.

[DaddyGoFast]

I have never been able to find the wheel for 50 bucks!

[atwong1]

they are nice, but not $200 nice for my pocket book. I'll stick with my $50 set procured from a Mercedes amg steering wheel..

I wish there are more $50 AMG wheels on ebay for us to buy. I hate to spend another $200 on top of the $300 for the ShiftHammer just for this mod, but my other option is to get the "not as ideal to me" buttons for even more money. Plus, if I get this group buy going, I am local so I do not pay for shipping. Whoops, I did pay for gas to drive there a few times to do this research, 10 miles each way. Well, I hope my work is appreciated.

[Ultimatecarman45]

I wish there are more $50 AMG wheels on ebay for us to buy. I hate to spend another $200 on top of the $300 for the ShiftHammer just for this mod, but my other option is to get the "not as ideal to me" buttons for even more money. Plus, if I get this group buy going, I am local so I do not pay for shipping. Whoops, I did pay for gas to drive there a few times to do this research, 10 miles each way. Well, I hope my work is appreciated.


Wasn't the REV selling the Shifthammer base kit for $175? That's all that you need, right? Or did you get the shifthammer a while back when no stealth installs were going on?

[JetBlack300c]

atwong1:

don't mis-understand me... I like them, but based on how often I actually use the other ones $200 is to much for me..

others may not think so.. but since I have mine I'm happy..

good luck with the sale..

I might add that you should post this on chargerforums, 300cforums and custommagnum forum, perhaps some of the jeep and SRT8 forums as well..

you will most likely get 10 buyers between the 6 - 7 forums..

[JetBlack300c]

I have never been able to find the wheel for 50 bucks!


I found 2,

one for $53 and the other for $48 (used that one for Trojans car)

:mrgreen:

Wasn't the REV selling the Shifthammer base kit for $175? That's all that you need, right? Or did you get the shifthammer a while back when no stealth installs were going on?


that was a limited time offer, at the time the first member made the stealth shift hammer we sold them for cost... only got 1/2 dozen guys to get them (and I got 3 of them...)

price is $299 with the buttons, $369 with..

[Ultimatecarman45]

I found 2,

one for $53 and the other for $48 (used that one for Trojans car)

:mrgreen:




that was a limited time offer, at the time the first member made the stealth shift hammer we sold them for cost... only got 1/2 dozen guys to get them (and I got 3 of them...)

price is $299 with the buttons, $369 with..


Ouch....I guess I should have kept the one I had...

[atwong1]

Wasn't the REV selling the Shifthammer base kit for $175? That's all that you need, right? Or did you get the shifthammer a while back when no stealth installs were going on?

I thought it was $299 for the base kit plus shipping. I haven't looked for a while. I will find out when I purchase.

[DaddyGoFast]

Ouch! I thought it was 175 without buttons period. I guess I can chalk this one up as DONE....

[JetBlack300c]

OK guys after talking with Wheelife we have decided to help out atwong1 with his group buy.

if he gets 10 or more buyers for the buttons we will offer the shift hammer to those 10 persons for a GB price of $250 shipped.

I made a new thread here with the details:

http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?p=1532619#post1532619

[talktoandy]

I'm in as well. Let me know when we're ready.:rock:

[atwong1]

atwong1:
I might add that you should post this on chargerforums, 300cforums and custommagnum forum, perhaps some of the jeep and SRT8 forums as well..

you will most likely get 10 buyers between the 6 - 7 forums..

Will they let me post links to this forum?

[JetBlack300c]

Will they let me post links to this forum?


i believe so..

[atwong1]

Only 3 people signed up so far, including me. And it's almost 24 hours already.

[magnumdude]

thinking........

[Joe Cool]

I am considering this as well. I just bought halos from the AAC group buy so I need to cut a few more lawns to get in on this one.

[Jaak]

Count me in!


Me too...

Thanks for letting me know about this Greg!

Just the paddles, don't need anything else.

[hemiwagn]

Me too...

Thanks for letting me know about this Greg!



You are welcome!

[Jaak]

Lol! Shhhhhhhh.....

[atwong1]

Me too...

Thanks for letting me know about this Greg!

Just the paddles, don't need anything else.

I only offer the paddles GB. But you can take advantage of the ShiftHammer special offer if you don't have one yet.

[talktoandy]

Bump for the new pricing and order date in the first post.

[atwong1]

Weekend bump

[atwong1]

bump

[Walt SRT8]

Thanks Rev Hammer

We (XE & I) Both did the stealth shifters (back of steering wheel mercedes switchs) and without a doubt, it is one of the most useful mods I have done to my car. Both hands on the wheel at all times.
Thanks Hammer for a great product, we just went a step further as did others.

Walt

[atwong1]

ShiftHammer is as important as rain-x when driving in bad weather in an unfamiliar area. The only difference is that you only need to do it one time for the ShiftHammer.

[atwong1]

bump

[Joe Cool]

Is today the deadline?

[atwong1]

Yep, I will be going to the MB dealer around noon and place the order. They say it should arrive the dealership by Wednesday, but I will be working out of town and I will pick them up Friday. I will ship them out ASAP, and no later than Saturday.

[atwong1]

Order has been placed, Paypal invoices has been sent. Now I am hoping it's next Friday already. In the meantime, I want to let all of you know that although we did not make 10 orders, Mr. iNCREDIBLE has agreed to still honor the special offer of $250 for the ShiftHammer without buttons. So, take advantage of it while it lasts. I have already placed my order. I can't wait to install all of them next weekend.

[3car]

Crap. I just started searching this weekend for paddle shifter options for my Charger SRT8. It looks like the perfect solution has just expired!

Any chance I can still get added to the GB for the AMG paddles?

...Brent

[hemiwagn]

Crap. I just started searching this weekend for paddle shifter options for my Charger SRT8. It looks like the perfect solution has just expired!

Any chance I can still get added to the GB for the AMG paddles?

...Brent

Well I bought two sets and would be happy to sell you one for the GB price.

[3car]

Wow hemiwagn, that's extremely nice of you. How should we arrange this? Should I get it from you, or should we get atwong1 to send it direct to me? I assume you've already paid, so I need to pay you, right? I do have PayPal.

Next I'll see if Hammer Automotive will deal direct with me on the related ShiftHammer group buy, rather than bugging you for his part.

Can't wait!

...Brent

[atwong1]

hemiwagn, you can save yours for your SRT8. I can get a few extra for the same GB price. 3car, if hemiwagn want to save his, I will get it for you. I will bend backwards to help out all the SRT8 owners because I think all SRT8's should have it as standard. Even R/T and V6 should have it as an option due to safety. Hammer Auto will honor the $250 deal either way. I just need to update this thread to show your name on it. Let me know how you want it done.

[Joe Cool]

I really feel bad to have to miss this. I just couldn't come up with the money. I agree that this is a mandatory mod of SRT8. Mine will have to wait.

Be sure to post some pics once someone has them installed.

Joe

[hemiwagn]

hemiwagn, you can save yours for your SRT8. I can get a few extra for the same GB price. 3car, if hemiwagn want to save his, I will get it for you. I will bend backwards to help out all the SRT8 owners because I think all SRT8's should have it as standard. Even R/T and V6 should have it as an option due to safety. Hammer Auto will honor the $250 deal either way. I just need to update this thread to show your name on it. Let me know how you want it done.

AT - if you can get one more for 3car that is my preferred route.
If not, then since 3car is in canada (like me), send me both.

I will do to the import hassle and I'll send 3car one and settle with him directly.
Hope that makes sense.
thanks all

[atwong1]

hemiwagn, 3car, I will call MB in the morning to add one to the order. I will be sending it to hemiwagn to let me do the import hassle. You two decide and let me know whether I should bill hemiwagn or 3car. Just PM me after you decide

Joe Cool, how long will it be before you can come up with the money? I am thinking about just paying for an extra one for the GB price and wait for you to pay me and I ship it to you. Hemiwagn can barge in if you like and stock this one for Joe Cool. Let me know.

I believe it's not too late to change the order tomorrow. It will be too late to change it Tuesday.

[3car]

atwong1.... It sounds like hemiwagn prefers to keep both of the ones he ordered. If you can add one extra to the GB order and treat me as if I had signed up by the Friday deadline, that would be simplest and wouldn't cause extra hassle for hemiwagn.

If you're willing to send by USPS instead of UPS, I've found there is no import hassle into Canada (the courier companies hose us bigtime with customs brokerage charges, but Canada Post is very reasonable). I'd gladly pay you a handling charge if the USPS thing is an extra hassle, or stay with UPS if that's best for you. I'll PM you with my personal details and we can work out shipping and payment.

Thanks hemiwagn and atwong1! As a newbie and a stranger, I'm amazed to get this kind of help. Much appreciated!

...Brent

[Joe Cool]

Joe Cool, how long will it be before you can come up with the money? I am thinking about just paying for an extra one for the GB price and wait for you to pay me and I ship it to you. Hemiwagn can barge in if you like and stock this one for Joe Cool. Let me know.

I believe it's not too late to change the order tomorrow. It will be too late to change it Tuesday.

I'd need a couple of weeks.
I've been thinking about the total cost of this mod and thought it would out of budget for a while. but I suppose that I can purchase the paddles now and leave the ShiftHammer for a couple of months (Hopefully still being able to get the GB price on it).

If you can add one more to the order then put me down for it.
Thanks in advance.

Joe

[atwong1]

Done for you Joe.

Joe and 3Car, please pm me with your Paypal email address and your shipping address. I will use USPS to ship for both of you. But I insist to add insurance. These things are too fragile and expensive to ship without insurance.

[Joe Cool]

Done for you Joe.

Joe and 3Car, please pm me with your Paypal email address and your shipping address. I will use USPS to ship for both of you. But I insist to add insurance. These things are too fragile and expensive to ship without insurance.

PM sent.
Thanks.

[bigbore]

Just saw this today. Am I too late?

[atwong1]

Yes, it is too late. But I am going to start another GB. Looks like a lot of people missed the first round. Good luck to you all and hope you will make the $180 price.

Here is the link:
http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?p=1556470#post1556470

[atwong1]

Ok, MB parts called and said that 5 of them arrived already and they will deliver it to my house sometime today (unbelievable service). They said the other 2 were backordered and were shipped out this morning. They will not arrive until Monday. So, 3car and Joe Cool's will be shipped out Monday. I think I can finish my work this afternoon, and hopefully if everything goes well, I can fly home tonight to install this baby. It's going to be long night. I can ship to hemiwagn and talktoandy tomorrow morning. Pray for me that I can go home tonight. I won't be able to concentrate on my work anymore if I have to stay here another day.

Oh, and jaak, you have to beg hemiwagn for one or wait for another GB next year... J/K hehehe

[Jaak]

Phone your manager and tell him you feel very well and need to go home. Take a day of well leave. LOL!

[atwong1]

Phone your manager and tell him you feel very well and need to go home. Take a day of well leave. LOL!

Well, I am a consultant, I don't need to call my manager to get leaves. But if I leave before I finish, I will have to fly back next week. I don't want that additional expense on my cost because it will have a hit on my revenue and will directly affect my bonus (or mod$$$). Plus I really want to be on the bench next week to play with the shifters.

Mr.iNCREDIBLE, when will I see my shifthammer? I can't wait!!!!! I need it for my batmobile YESTERDAY!!!!! hehehehe:panic:

[atwong1]

Latest news:
1. I am done, heading to airport now. Will start working on padlle shiffe tonihts.
2. can't type anyomre, in a heryurry
3. all 7 arrived, they opent eh box and saw all 7, can start shippinig tomorroow monring

See you all tonight sorry for the typos! Pary for me safe flight/ bye

[Jaak]

Awesome!!!

I really appreciate the work you've done on this. Safe trip and no cancellations/delays! Flying on Fridays, usually sucks... Especially in the winter and going through O'Hare, but fortunately, you don't have to do either!

[JetBlack300c]

Latest news:
1. I am done, heading to airport now. Will start working on padlle shiffe tonihts.
2. can't type anyomre, in a heryurry
3. all 7 arrived, they opent eh box and saw all 7, can start shippinig tomorroow monring

See you all tonight sorry for the typos! Pary for me safe flight/ bye


cool deal, your Shift Hammer will ship by tomorrow

[atwong1]

First pics here. Instructions being compiled.

[atwong1]

How come I cannot upload more than 3 pics?

[atwong1]

After a brief rest, I started the install late last night.

Here are the install instructions:

http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=114669

[Joe Cool]

That looks fantastic! Groovy even!
Definitely excited for this mod now.

Joe

[hemiwagn]

Wow -- This is going to be a fantastic mod. Thanks Anthony for your pioneering!

[atwong1]

Wow -- This is going to be a fantastic mod. Thanks Anthony for your pioneering!

Just had a quick test drive outside. All I can say is WOWWWWWWWW!!!!!! I can't wait to hook up the rest of them. Mr.iNCREDIBLE!!!!!!!! I wish ShiftHammer arrived yesterday.

[Jaak]

Wow -- This is going to be a fantastic mod. Thanks Anthony for your pioneering!

Like hemiwagn said!

I've been wanting to do this for a year or more now, so this is just awesome!

I even bought a spare steering wheel to hack for this purpose, for experimenting. Guess I won't need to experiment! That looks so sweet!

Thanks again for finding these!

[atwong1]

Like hemiwagn said!

I've been wanting to do this for a year or more now, so this is just awesome!

I even bought a spare steering wheel to hack for this purpose, for experimenting. Guess I won't need to experiment! That looks so sweet!

Thanks again for finding these!
You have a spare? Is it an SRT version with the carbon fiber style leather on the top 1/3? I am looking for one.

[hemiwagn]

jaak has so many spare parts token and I joke that he has the only 300magcharg in existence.

[atwong1]

jaak has so many spare parts token and I joke that he has the only 300magcharg in existence.

Hey, actually, we have a member here called Charg-um. He has an interesting ride. He is a wizard in metal works.

[Jaak]

I have spare parts for the car too!

Oh. You were talking about the car... Oops...

Yeah, we're puzzled what car the steering wheel's from. It's carbon fiber on the top, but not cloth, a hard plastic. It doesn't have SuperBee coloured stitching, and it doesn't have the chrome rings like on the 300.

I should take a picture of it and post it.

There, I did...

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e266/srt8jaak/Paddleshifters/SteeringWheel011a.jpg

Oh, and while I was at it, for those that might be curious...

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e266/srt8jaak/Paddleshifters/steeringwheelbuttons.jpg

[DaddyGoFast]

That looks amazing!

Can we see some pics of the back of the wheel?

[atwong1]

That looks amazing!

Can we see some pics of the back of the wheel?

Here
http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=114047

[DaddyGoFast]

Oh there it is. I did not go back and check the first post. LOL!

Thanks!

[atwong1]

Hemiwagn should be receiving the shipment today via UPS and talktoandy will receive tomorrow via UPS. Be sure to inspect the package as soon as they arrive because all of them are insured. Please let me know so I can update the status. And show pictures of your install. 3car and Joe Cool, yours are shipped via USPS with insurance too, so please be sure to let me know they arrive safely in perfect condition. With USPS, and thru customs, I have no clue how long it takes to arrive. Please keep me posted so I will know next time how long to expect when shipping to Canada. If they are not in perfect condition, we will have to file a claim too.

By the way, I saw the Ban the Battery mod post. Resistor is nice and small but having a 10V when open, I am not too excited about this. Anyone have plans for a voltage regulator circuit? Maybe with a disc shape output resembling a battery to preserve the ShiftHammer warranty? Please share. See if we can do it in bulk for a lot cheaper.

[plcman]

I will post pictures as soon as mine is modified. Parts will be here today, surface mount regulator.
I'm not worried about the warranty I can repair if necessary!

[atwong1]

I will post pictures as soon as mine is modified. Parts will be here today, surface mount regulator.
I'm not worried about the warranty I can repair if necessary!

Pics and instructions!!!!

[atwong1]

Any updates hemiwagn? You should have received by now. Don't keep me wondering!

[hemiwagn]

sorry anthony - no update yet.
I had you ship the stuff to my Buffalo drop address, but I live in Toronto. I won't be picking up the stuff till this weekend.

Sorry to disappoint you!

Hey are you sure there are not 2 spare connection paths on the clockspring?
I have never had my steering wheel off so I can't be sure, but jaak, thought there may be 2 unused terminals -- per the service manual. And I did see on pic in the KB that seemed to show them but it was a small pic and I can't be sure.
As a result I have not ordered my shifthammer yet until I check it out.

[atwong1]

That will make Andy the first one to physically get his, and that will be tomorrow. I am so excited for him.
For the clockspring, I did not pay enough attention to look for spare paths when it was opened. From the pics I can see the right side audio control module has one open plug, but the left side is fully populated.

[Jaak]

Hmmm, maybe I'll go pull mine apart and finally have a look... If I never come back, you know the air bag went off.. LOL!

Don't worry, I'll pull the battery connection and let things discharge first..

[hemiwagn]

hey jaak.........















BOOM!

[Jaak]

ROTFLMAO!!!!

OK the service manual didn't lie.....

Two wires, just waiting for paddle shifters to be connected! Have to see what access to the other side is like. It will be more work than the Hammer shifter, but will be a direct connection and cost less money, but more time. (And never need a battery)

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e266/srt8jaak/Paddleshifters/SteeringWheel020Small.jpg

[atwong1]

How are you going to fit 4 wires (2 from each paddle) into only 2?

[Jaak]

Sorry, what's that, one for each paddle and a common ground? :)

[JetBlack300c]

jaak has so many spare parts token and I joke that he has the only 300magcharg in existence.


not true..

my car has Charger Daytona (GoManGo) interior

Magnum truck liner and tri-fold deck

Charger SRt suspension

and it's a 300C

so I guess I have a Daytona 300 Magnum....

[Jaak]

I like the parts the electrons enjoy the most.... LOL!

I may do the paddle connection in a "unique" way, but forget about that for now and later when I tell you, you can say, Oh yeah, I remember that.

[atwong1]

jaak, my 08 doesn't look like that, and I don't have the extra on top. I will post pics tonight.

Pics here:






http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll184/atwong1/Charger%20AMG%20paddles/Clockspring001.jpg


http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll184/atwong1/Charger%20AMG%20paddles/Clockspring002.jpg

http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll184/atwong1/Charger%20AMG%20paddles/Clockspring003.jpg

[atwong1]

I will post pictures as soon as mine is modified. Parts will be here today, surface mount regulator.
I'm not worried about the warranty I can repair if necessary!

PLCMAN, got pics yet? I am waiting to install mine.

[atwong1]

That will make Andy the first one to physically get his, and that will be tomorrow. I am so excited for him.
For the clockspring, I did not pay enough attention to look for spare paths when it was opened. From the pics I can see the right side audio control module has one open plug, but the left side is fully populated.

Andy, please post some pics once you have it installed. I want to see it. Be sure to use my instructions. I want it to be perfect as much as you do.

[plcman]

PLCMAN, got pics yet? I am waiting to install mine.

Finished today, I will post pictures and parts list. I am using a differant regulator than I told you. The one I picked out is made for automotive applications.

[Jaak]

Well that sucks for the '08... The change in the cruise control, which moves with the steering wheel, is why you don't have the open clock spring connections. (by the looks of it.)

So here's what it looks like on mine... I won't be using anything wireless, mine will be wired in... No battery to go dead, no voltage regulator, no latency added.

These two connections on the clock spring...

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e266/srt8jaak/Paddleshifters/SteeringWheelConnectorinMedium.jpg

Come out here...

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e266/srt8jaak/Paddleshifters/SteeringWheelclockspringconnectiono.jpg

Which feeds completely through the SCM with no connection to it at all, here...

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e266/srt8jaak/Paddleshifters/SteeringWheelCSoutinSCMMedium.jpg

And engage in this connector here...

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e266/srt8jaak/Paddleshifters/SteeringWheelclockspringconnectionh.jpg

Unfortunately, it's missing those two contacts, so I'll have to figure out what connectors fit in there and add the two wires. But it's a direct wired connection straight through.

That sucks that they changed it for the '08.

[hemiwagn]

Drool, slobber, grovel, what a GREAT FIND!!!!
Lucky 05-07 owners, this will be a great mod and all that is needed is a couple of switches, wire and prolly a connector mod TBD....

Jaak at his electronics best again....

[Jaak]

In case you're curious, this is how the clock spring fits in to the SCM.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e266/srt8jaak/Paddleshifters/SteeringWheel023Medium.jpg

And where it completely bypasses the SCM is through the slot in the PC board, in to the connector shell.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e266/srt8jaak/Paddleshifters/SteeringWheel026Medium.jpg

Hey, thanks Greg... :-) We'll have both of ours working fairly soon, I expect.

[Jaak]

Now I have just one more question....

Why is there a four position connector, (with only three contacts) unused in the SCM from this Daimler sourced steering column?

Anthony, got a service manual for the Benz with the paddle shifters?

It would be pretty cool if the SCM can send the shift commands on the CAN bus.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e266/srt8jaak/Paddleshifters/SteeringWheelUnusedconnectorMedium.jpg

[atwong1]

Now I have just one more question....

Why is there a four position connector, (with only three contacts) unused in the SCM from this Daimler sourced steering column?

Anthony, got a service manual for the Benz with the paddle shifters?



No, I don't have a Benz service manual.

[plcman]

Look here:

http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?p=1576757#post1576757

[Jaak]

Look here:

http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?p=1576757#post1576757

OK, I need to wake up first before looking at the forum... LOL I thought you were trying to answer my question!

Talk about a multi-threaded topic! :)

Why don't you just rip that out and run a couple of wires? Just Kidding...


Here's more pictures of the connector that the clock spring ultimately plugs in to.

It's got a cover that slides on to the connector shell and then clips in the steering column casting.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e266/srt8jaak/Paddleshifters/SteeringWheel036Medium.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e266/srt8jaak/Paddleshifters/SteeringWheel035Medium.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e266/srt8jaak/Paddleshifters/SteeringWheel033Medium.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e266/srt8jaak/Paddleshifters/SteeringWheel032Medium.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e266/srt8jaak/Paddleshifters/SteeringWheel031Medium.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e266/srt8jaak/Paddleshifters/SteeringWheel030Medium.jpg

I took many pictures so all the wire colours could be identified, if needed.

If you're curious what things look like with the clock spring removed....

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e266/srt8jaak/Paddleshifters/SteeringWheel044Medium.jpg

Notice the Benz logos on things? And the yellow bar that crosses over the spot another module fits in to, over the empty connector on the SCM. Maybe the 300C has something there to do with the seat/steering programming for the two keys?

[Joe Cool]

Two wires, just waiting for paddle shifters to be connected! Have to see what access to the other side is like. It will be more work than the Hammer shifter, but will be a direct connection and cost less money, but more time. (And never need a battery)


Are saying that you will use the paddle shifters without requiring a Shifthammer?

Joe

[Jaak]

Requiring a what? :wink:

Yes, that's exactly what I'm saying.

I tested out the shifter logic yesterday, on my way to Hemiwagn's and found that if both buttons are engaged at the same time, the car shifts down, which is not what I would prefer. Do it enough times and the car dumps you back in to Drive and locks out the autostick function until you restart.

So I'll be adding in a relay so that both paddles pressed, forces a shift up and the shifter will never see more than one paddle press.

So the total parts count will be the two paddle shifters, various connectors, wire, a relay and that's it. Direct connection, no battery and totally hidden.

The Shifthammer is still a great solution, and requires less disassembly of the steering column. Heck, even that bolt that holds on the steering wheel is on there extremely tight. (Blue Loctite....)

[Joe Cool]

That is excellent.
Although I already ordered the ShiftHammer, I will definitely wait to see how this mod can be done w/o it.

Maybe I'll be able to sell my S.H. to someone with an '08.

I anxiously await to hear more on your progress.

Joe

[DaddyGoFast]

According the harness site: http://dto.vftis.com/mopar/main.asp


These are what the wires do on the actual clip side:

MODULE-STEERING CONTROL - BLACK 14 WAY

CAV CIRCUIT FUNCTION 1

R63 20LG/WT
DRIVER SQUIB 2 LINE 1
2

R61 20LG/VT
DRIVER SQUIB 2 LINE 2
3

R45 20LG/OR
DRIVER SQUIB 1 LINE 1
4

R43 20LG/BR
DRIVER SQUIB 1 LINE 2
5

-

-

6

-

-

7

-

-

8

Z910 20BK/TN
GROUND
9

A913 20RD/GY
FUSED B(+)
10

D65 20WT/LG
CAN C BUS (+)
11

D64 20WT/LB
CAN C BUS (-)
12

D54 20WT
CAN B BUS (-)
13

D55 20WT/OR
CAN B BUS (+)
14

-

-


This is the plug:
http://dto.vftis.com/data/2006/06LX_R2468/svg/LX680279.svg

I tried to see if you were able to buy it as an electrical repair kit but, it says that it is not available. Bummer.

Here is the SCM:

MODULE-STEERING CONTROL (COMPONENT SIDE) - 9 WAY
CAV CIRCUIT FUNCTION 1

-

-

2

-

-

3

R43
DRIVER SQUIB 1 LINE 2
4

R45
DRIVER SQUIB 1 LINE 1
5

R61
DRIVER SQUIB 2 LINE 2
6

R63
DRIVER SQUIB 2 LINE 1
7

D500 (PREMIUM)
LIN BUS
8

D501 (PREMIUM)
LIN SLAVE RETURN
9

D502 (PREMIUM)
LIN SLAVE FEED

With it's picture numeration:
http://dto.vftis.com/data/2006/06LX_R2468/svg/LX681001.svg


Now, those wire look just like the wires on the hood light I just did. I bought this wiring repair kit, which is by far one of the least expensive, for $6 bucks:

05102411AA

Which came with two loose wires, a plastic clip (may not be used) and some cool lines heat shrink tubing. You can use the wires to insert into the blanks on the connector.

I am sooo excited about your find. I have been wanting to do this for sime time but, the cost of the hammer has been prohibitive. The clock spring make me nervous as heck but, I am sure I can do it.

Great find!!

BEans for you!

[Jaak]

Yeah, pins 5/6 are the two unused ones.... I'll document with pictures, what I do.

Funny thing... Even the '08 shows those pins as unused on http://dto.vftis.com/mopar/main.asp (http://dto.vftis.com/mopar/main.asp)

[DaddyGoFast]

What about using the Dodge radio button switches?

http://www.chrysler.com/shared/2008/sebring/interior_conveniences/images/steering_wheel_audio.jpg

They have an up and a down on each switch. Thoughts?

[Joe Cool]

I don't think those will work as the 6 positions are connected through two wires and simply read different resistence level depending on the button pressed. These resistance lavel would be translated through the CAN bus system.

If someone knows how to convert these into unique lines I would love to hear about it as I have a Durango sterring column in my 'ol 1980 Ramcharger and would love to use these radio buttons to control my power windows. I have been trying to figure out how to do it for 2 years but haven't been able to make a working multiplexer circuit.

(don't mean to highjack this thread).
Joe

[DaddyGoFast]

(don't mean to highjack this thread).
Joe


Too Late!


Just kidding/...

It would be pretty cool to use these.

[Joe Cool]

Anthony,

My switches arrived this morning... and they are very purdy!
Thanks again.:beerchug:

Joe

[atwong1]

Yeah, pins 5/6 are the two unused ones.... I'll document with pictures, what I do.

Funny thing... Even the '08 shows those pins as unused on http://dto.vftis.com/mopar/main.asp (http://dto.vftis.com/mopar/main.asp)

The link is no good. Please show a screen capture.

[atwong1]

Anthony,

My switches arrived this morning... and they are very purdy!
Thanks again.:beerchug:

Joe
Cool I will update. Any pics to show yet?

[3car]

I got my paddles today. Thanks Anthony! (and only a $5 customs brokerage charge from Canada Post, as usual).

My Shifthammer hasn't arrived yet, but I may be wiring them direct anyway if it works out for jaak.

[atwong1]

I got my paddles today. Thanks Anthony! (and only a $5 customs brokerage charge from Canada Post, as usual).

My Shifthammer hasn't arrived yet, but I may be wiring them direct anyway if it works out for jaak.

Cool, be sure to show pics.

So far, both the Canadian addresses have been confirmed receipt. What happened to Andy and hemiwagn and jaak's? Have their paddles arrived?

[hemiwagn]

Cool, be sure to show pics.

So far, both the Canadian addresses have been confirmed receipt. What happened to Andy and hemiwagn and jaak's? Have their paddles arrived?

We have them but I'm not going to do the install until the clockspring wiring is figured out. Jaak is pretty busy with work this week so he will not be back on the project for a little while.

[Jaak]

I hope to start back in to it this weekend. Initially it can be wired up directly, but I don't like the default shifter logic (Press both and it shifts down), keep pressing both like an idiot and it locks you out.

So I may just make it work first, then follow up with the idiot protection after.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e266/srt8jaak/Paddleshifters/Pic017.jpg

[plcman]

12692

This will prevent both inputs from firing at the same time. Attached is a logic diagram, just tie the Y0 and Y1 to the switch inputs.
You will need 2 pole 12 volt relays form c contacts. Make sure you put free wheeling diodes on the coils so you don't introduce any spikes. Omron makes some very small units that are 2 amp rated.
These are small enough to stay in the steering column.

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=lK7M36XCk6JxdWY%2fV6sVqw%3d% 3d

Data sheet:
http://www.components.omron.com/components/web/PDFLIB.nsf/0/4FABD5A03E56DFDB85257201007DD584/$file/G5V-2_0607.pdf

Edit:
X0=Paddle-down
X1=Paddle-up
Y0=Relay Coil-Down
Y1=Relay Coil-Up

The second set of contacts of each relay are the connection points to the shifter.

[Jaak]

Yeah, right track, but I'm doing it with one relay!

[plcman]

The circuit will lock out the other button if both are pressed at the same time. Also the button with priority will always over ride the other. The chances of both switches pressed at the exact millisecond will be eliminated, and if it does neither will activate.

[3car]

Does anyone know how the transmission will react if a button/paddle is pressed while the console shifter is in Park, Reverse, or Neutral? Normally this is impossible, but with our mod (wireless or wired) it will be a possibility.

[Joe Cool]

Does anyone know how the transmission will react if a button/paddle is pressed while the console shifter is in Park, Reverse, or Neutral? Normally this is impossible, but with our mod (wireless or wired) it will be a possibility.

Anyone currently using a shifthammer should be able to answer that. What don't you post that question on the Hammer Vendor Forum (if you haven't already).

Joe

[3car]

What don't you post that question on the Hammer Vendor Forum (if you haven't already).

Joe

Good idea, I'll do that.

[Joe Cool]

Good idea, I'll do that.

that was my good idea for the week... whew, just in time.

[Jaak]

Ok, I'm currently working on this...

So far, I've got new contacts inserted in the connector at the back of the column, as well as a new connector in the clock spring in the wheel. Just cut out the steering wheel for the paddles, ran the wires through the soft plastic to the inside, without drilling a hole for them in the metal support.

Need to get the screws in to hold them in place, and then for now, I'll just wire them up direct with no logic (and try not to push them both at the same time) and I should have it all going tonight.

Here's some teaser pics...

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e266/srt8jaak/Paddleshifters/Pic021Small.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e266/srt8jaak/Paddleshifters/Pic023Small.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e266/srt8jaak/Paddleshifters/Pic027Small.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e266/srt8jaak/Paddleshifters/Pic047Small.jpg

[Jaak]

Cooll... Directly wired in and it works!

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e266/srt8jaak/Paddleshifters/Pic051Small.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e266/srt8jaak/Paddleshifters/Pic059Small.jpg

I built a small interface with relays to ensure both being pushed will result in an upshift, but to be honest, I don't know how likely it is for both to be pressed. So I decided after building it, to not install it! You have to be pretty deliberate with these to hit them both at the same time.

Now to tidy up and then go for a test drive. OK, the other way around... LOL!

[FlyByU]

Awesome mod, I love it. When is someone going to build these and sell installed with core exchange on the steering wheel :)

Hint hint

[3car]

Does anyone know how the transmission will react if a button/paddle is pressed while the console shifter is in Park, Reverse, or Neutral? Normally this is impossible, but with our mod (wireless or wired) it will be a possibility.

Anyone currently using a shifthammer should be able to answer that. What don't you post that question on the Hammer Vendor Forum (if you haven't already).

Joe

Here's the answer in the Hammer Vendor Forum from Meister .... http://www.lxforums.com/board/showpost.php?p=1588672&postcount=136

It seems that it works perfectly!

[GoMan1315]

Awesome mod, I love it. When is someone going to build these and sell installed with core exchange on the steering wheel :)

Hint hint

x2

[Junior]

Great work fellas! I'm just jumping in now (late to the dance)!

Can you tell me the current pricing info

Nevermind, it's over here:

http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=114047

[Fast56k]

I think it would be slick if we could press both at basically the same time and get the car instantly back in D. Probably not possible, but would be nice.

C.

[Jaak]

I think it would be slick if we could press both at basically the same time and get the car instantly back in D. Probably not possible, but would be nice.

C.

I agree, but that's not trivial... The press and hold on the up paddle works the same as the autostick though....

[DaddyGoFast]

Where did you get the white clip shown here:


http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e266/srt8jaak/Paddleshifters/Pic027Small.jpg

the goes into the clock spring? (The one with the copper and silver wires on it)

Where did you get the pins for the harness?

I assume that the copper and silver wires are left and right, where did you wire the common ground?

[Jaak]

I'll detail that later this week... I hope to find an easy, common source, as the place I bought that from is local.

Off to pack then Dallas TX tomorrow. See ya in a few days!

See the red wire? Common ground. I know, red = ground, makes no sense. But check it with a multimeter... it's ground.

[Meister]

I agree, but that's not trivial... The press and hold on the up paddle works the same as the autostick though....

And does, in fact, get one "immediately" back in Drive.

No need for a two-button/paddle hold when one will do it just fine, IMO.

[atwong1]

Besides jaak, have anyone else got their's working?

[Jaak]

Hemiwagn and Token do... I helped a little with Hemiwagn's, Token's was done without me.

[hemiwagn]

Yes currently there are only 3 known shift paddle LX's out there.

I have not had much time to drive mine yet but it will be in Columbus this weekend for anyone who wants to see the mod installed.

[Token]

I've played with mine a little bit, on the way to/from work, to the store etc... Works great!
Thre is still a slight delay between the paddle pull and the actual shift, exactly the same as when you'd hit the stick and the car shifts, but being able to do it with your hands on the wheel is an excellent feature.

The install looks factory.

One last thing, the paddles are metal, so if you park in the sun they will get warm, but your fingers aren't on them all that long, so I don't think this will be an issue.

Jaak.... My install done without you.... Bah, without you and hemiwagn, it would have NEVER gotten done.

[Jaak]

I've played with mine a little bit, on the way to/from work, to the store etc... Works great!
Thre is still a slight delay between the paddle pull and the actual shift, exactly the same as when you'd hit the stick and the car shifts, but being able to do it with your hands on the wheel is an excellent feature.

The install looks factory.

One last thing, the paddles are metal, so if you park in the sun they will get warm, but your fingers aren't on them all that long, so I don't think this will be an issue.

Jaak.... My install done without you.... Bah, without you and hemiwagn, it would have NEVER gotten done.

Thanks Brother... Yeah, I guess I helped. LOL!

The delay is not unlike the Mercedes from what I've seen. I recall watching Tommy Kendall test driving the AMG on Speed TV and you could see/hear the delay in shifting from the request to the action.

I mentioned this to my cousin and his response was, "I have to anticipate a shift on my standard, what's the difference?"

Good point.

[Meister]

I think it would be slick if we could press both at basically the same time and get the car instantly back in D. Probably not possible, but would be nice.

C.

That's precisely what does happen, Fast. :wink:

That also happens when you simply hold the "Up" button for more than a half-second or so. :thumbs_u:

And *that* is even cooler than "slick" and "nice" because it only requires one hand to be on the wheel to command it, not two.

[Jaak]

Hmmm... if I hold both, it downshifts. If I hold the up, it goes in to D just like it does with the stick. In fact it does everything identical to the stick, except you can't do up and down at the same time with the stick, as it's not possible.

I've noticed the shifting for the R/T & 300C is different than the SRTs. For example, at a stop I can make an R/T go to 1 - 5, but the SRT will only select 1 or 2.

[Meister]

2. Hmmm... if I hold both, it downshifts. If I hold the up, it goes in to D just like it does with the stick. In fact it does everything identical to the stick, except you can't do up and down at the same time with the stick, as it's not possible.

1. I've noticed the shifting for the R/T & 300C is different than the SRTs. For example, at a stop I can make an R/T go to 1 - 5, but the SRT will only select 1 or 2. (Numbering mine)

1. Concur. I've noticed the same thing, ie., with the 5.7 rear end in, and either handheld tuner tweaking, 1-5 displayable when standing.

With the 6.1 rear end installed, only 1-2 displayable when standing.

2. Here's where we differ. With either rear end in my ride, concurrent engagement of the shift buttons moves me to D. Perhaps this is a function of the ShiftHammer, which you "lack". :wink:

I consider it a non-issue though, since as a simple, brief, hold of the Up button moves the tranny selector to D, there's really no need to ever depress both buttons simultaneously.

Aside: I did receive a bit of a start earlier today when, in the interest of verification, I re-visited the simultaneous engagement of the ShiftHammer's two buttons. The gear indicator showed an immediate shift from 3 to D, which is normal; however, when I briefly held the Down button afterward I didn't get the third-gear indication I expected. It simply remained at D. Autostick had no effect as well. Something was amiss.

I completed my errand (which just happened to be to ship one of my ECMs to jaak here to perform some brain surgery on :)) and re-checked for autostick. With no response I, in order, pulled fuse 11 for 30 seconds, pulled the battery for a minute or so, and swapped in a different TCM. All with no apparent effect. The plot thickens.

Using the Predator to tweak the tranny was to be my next step, but I wished to wait till we were back home in our garage to do so. I next tried the ShiftHammer's Down button while cruising at 45 mph or so and it responded perfectly. Autostick was then confirmed operating normally as well - from that point on all has been perfect, as usual.

So what happened? It may be that HAL and company simply required the attaining of a speed greater than I'd attained while in parking lots to reset after I'd so rudely held both buttons with a 6.1 rear end installed tho' they'd never complained when I'd tried the same experiment with the 5.7 rear end originally, so it's unclear which, if any, step of the several recovery steps did the trick. It well may be that the simple cycling of the key and then attaining a speed above some value, say 25 mph, is all it took to clear the briefly disabled autostick function. But that's where my curiosity ends.

I'll not again be simultaneously pressing both shift buttons with the 6.1 rear end in My Sweet C any time soon. :wink:

[Jaak]

I did discover that not only did it often, but not always, downshift when both are pressed, that if you did it enough, the TCM (I assume) would make the decision that something was wrong and throw you back in the Drive and lock you out of autostick, until the car was shut down and restarted.

I remember Fnky saying the TCM is powered down when you turn off the ignition, so effectively, you are resetting it every time. (but we know it remembers adaptives...)

Since the paddle action is very deliberate, I don't see this as an issue. I did build a circuit that would prevent it and force an upshift if both were pressed, but I've yet to find cause to actually install it.

[pioneer4x4]

I've noticed the shifting for the R/T & 300C is different than the SRTs. For example, at a stop I can make an R/T go to 1 - 5, but the SRT will only select 1 or 2.
My 2006 R/T can only select 1-2 while stopped. I think I can get into 5th at about 30mph.

[plcman]

(Numbering mine)

1. Concur. I've noticed the same thing, ie., with the 5.7 rear end in, and either handheld tuner tweaking, 1-5 displayable when standing.

With the 6.1 rear end installed, only 1-2 displayable when standing.

2. Here's where we differ. With either rear end in my ride, concurrent engagement of the shift buttons moves me to D. Perhaps this is a function of the ShiftHammer, which you "lack". :wink:

I consider it a non-issue though, since as a simple, brief, hold of the Up button moves the tranny selector to D, there's really no need to ever depress both buttons simultaneously.

Aside: I did receive a bit of a start earlier today when, in the interest of verification, I re-visited the simultaneous engagement of the ShiftHammer's two buttons. The gear indicator showed an immediate shift from 3 to D, which is normal; however, when I briefly held the Down button afterward I didn't get the third-gear indication I expected. It simply remained at D. Autostick had no effect as well. Something was amiss.

I completed my errand (which just happened to be to ship one of my ECMs to jaak here to perform some brain surgery on :)) and re-checked for autostick. With no response I, in order, pulled fuse 11 for 30 seconds, pulled the battery for a minute or so, and swapped in a different TCM. All with no apparent effect. The plot thickens.

Using the Predator to tweak the tranny was to be my next step, but I wished to wait till we were back home in our garage to do so. I next tried the ShiftHammer's Down button while cruising at 45 mph or so and it responded perfectly. Autostick was then confirmed operating normally as well - from that point on all has been perfect, as usual.

So what happened? It may be that HAL and company simply required the attaining of a speed greater than I'd attained while in parking lots to reset after I'd so rudely held both buttons with a 6.1 rear end installed tho' they'd never complained when I'd tried the same experiment with the 5.7 rear end originally, so it's unclear which, if any, step of the several recovery steps did the trick. It well may be that the simple cycling of the key and then attaining a speed above some value, say 25 mph, is all it took to clear the briefly disabled autostick function. But that's where my curiosity ends.

I'll not again be simultaneously pressing both shift buttons with the 6.1 rear end in My Sweet C any time soon. :wink:

I cannot say the Shifthammer has XOR logic built in but you can eliminate the problem with this:

http://www.lxforums.com/board/showpost.php?p=1584945&postcount=110

It will always lock out the other switch or keep them both from doing anything if selected at the same instance.

[Jaak]

So far I've not seen it as a problem... But that's similar to what I already built, but without the defaulting to an upshift, so when you release, depending on which one you let go of first, will give you a shift up or down. Great if you're aware of it, not so great if you're not. Which is why I defaulted to an upshift.

But again, it's tough to accidentally depress them at the same time.

[Meister]

I cannot say the Shifthammer has XOR logic built in but you can eliminate the problem with this:

http://www.lxforums.com/board/showpost.php?p=1584945&postcount=110

It will always lock out the other switch or keep them both from doing anything if selected at the same instance.

Excellent info, Picman, and I appreciate it a lot. :thumbs_u:

While I doubt I'll avail myself of these any time soon (I'll have no trouble avoiding hitting both buttons simultaneously), they may well be precisely what someone else desires with their pending install. And if mine ever develops problems I've now got a solution.

Beans to ya'. :beerchug:

[plcman]

^^ Thanks
I edited the post to be more clear...

[Jaak]

Driving from Hemiwagn's tonight, I had one paddle come loose. I've not been comfortable with that single screw holding them in as there's no backup mechanism to secure it.

I would recommend anyone doing this, to put a fine bead of silicone glue around the opening (just a little bit, don't go nuts) to help secure the paddle in place, just before you tighten the screw.

It's an ugly feeling to have it come out of the steering wheel while you're driving.

I'll be doing mine tomorrow night. Safety first!

[DaddyGoFast]

A small washer should do the trick.

I just found the MB steering wheel with the buttons instead of the paddles. I like that better as nothing sticks up. More stealthy and factory looking. Now I just need a spare steering wheel. It does not have to be fancy. I just need something to send in for a core. I will be gettting the carbon fiber version and putting my paddles on it.

Anyone got one laying around? I just need the strip down wheel.

I am looking and bidding on ebay but, I would rather give the money to an lx'er on the forum than some person on ebay.

Thanks guys!

BTW, Jaak, where did you get the white clip that you inserted into the empty clock spring position?

Where did you get the wire female pins to insert into the clockspring wire harness to run the other two wires to the tranny?

[Jaak]

A small washer won't do a thing, unless I've totally missed what you're talking about!

I have to look up where to get that connector that's not local to Canada. The store I purchased it from is only here. However, it's a pretty standard 0.1 inch header connector, just like what you see in PC's, so you could even raid an old PC case for parts.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e266/srt8jaak/Paddleshifters/Pic030Small.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e266/srt8jaak/Paddleshifters/Pic029Small.jpg


But right now, back to work for me!

[DaddyGoFast]

Oooohhh... a 5 pack, you got extras then? How much for 1?

LOL

[Jaak]

LOL, well actually you need two. One gets used under the airbag, and the other two contacts are consumed for the connector on the column...

OK, I'll go look for them online so you guys can order them up. I was hoping to find them crimped on wires somewhere, as it would be easier for most people.

[DaddyGoFast]

I have some wires from a wire kit I bought from the dealer. They come all prepped. The cheapest one is like 6 bucks and come with two wires and some connector. I will just the wires left over from that project to go into the black 14 position clip so, that one is good.

What I need is the white clips and the wires that go into it on the steering side.

Thanks Jaak!

[plcman]

LOL, well actually you need two. One gets used under the airbag, and the other two contacts are consumed for the connector on the column...

OK, I'll go look for them online so you guys can order them up. I was hoping to find them crimped on wires somewhere, as it would be easier for most people.

Molex numbers:
Housing 22-01-3027
Female inserts 08-50-0114

Digikey part numbers:
Housing wm2000-nd
Female inserts wm2200-nd

If you are saying the connectors that you need are .1 spacing then I have 80 connectors that I could make up for people. I will make up the 2 crimp connectors with wires for anyone that needs them.

2 leads with the housing and 2 leads with crimped connectors on them.
What lead length do they need.
I will price based on connector cost plus crimped terminals. Plus shipping.

[DaddyGoFast]

Dibbs!

How muchie??


List starting here:
____________________________________

1) DaddyGoFast

[Fast56k]

Count me in for 20.

C.

[Jaak]

OK, if this doesn't deserve beans, nothing does.... That's awesome.

The one in the steering wheel side, actually needs the tabs trimmed off to fit snug. If there's a housing that doesn't have the tabs, that's even better.

Pigtails ten inches long should be fine.

For the other connector, I should measure this, but the insulation can't be too thick or it won't insert easily. Since it's just a signalling wire and not significant current, then perhaps 22 - 24 gauge would be fine. Length should be maybe 5 feet? It has to go from the steering column to the rear end of the shifter, just the pair of conductors.

Crimping the connectors and ensuring they'll fit in the shell in the column is the toughest part. If they're not done well, they won't want to slide in properly.

Now, to go give you beans! :rock:

Oh, one more thing, if you can make one wire yellow and the other blue, all the better... It'll match the paddle's wiring colors.

Molex numbers:
Housing 22-01-3027
Female inserts 08-50-0114

Digikey part numbers:
Housing wm2000-nd
Female inserts wm2200-nd

If you are saying the connectors that you need are .1 spacing then I have 80 connectors that I could make up for people. I will make up the 2 crimp connectors with wires for anyone that needs them.

2 leads with the housing and 2 leads with crimped connectors on them.
What lead length do they need.
I will price based on connector cost plus crimped terminals. Plus shipping.

[plcman]

I will make up 50 sets. I have wire we use in our applications here that I can use 20 gauge I think. I will look for some 22 gauge. I have the proper crip tool from Molex. So the crimp should fit with no problem.

Do you want the paddle side and the lower connector side blue and yellow both?

Are these the type of connector you used, they look the same from the photo. They have the polarity ribs but they can be snipped off easily.

10 inch leads in the steering column and 5 foot for the other?

And yes there is a housing without the tabs.

Edit:
What I will be using is Belden 8442.
This has a Black and a Red wire in a jacket, 22gauge
This wire is rated at 300v temp 60c
Considered communication wire
I will start a new thread for the wiring kit!

[DaddyGoFast]

Beans for you Sir!

Jaak, I can't bean you again! - Bummer!

Hey plcman,

I have a line on carbon fiber steering wheels. You know where DCX puts the tortoise sheel looka-alike thing on the wheel? They put real carbon fiber or wood. I am trying to work a group buy for about 250 + 150 refundable core. If we do this right, we may be able to pre-build them and offer them up as a set.

[plcman]

Works for me!

[Jaak]

I will make up 50 sets. I have wire we use in our applications here that I can use 20 gauge I think. I will look for some 22 gauge. I have the proper crip tool from Molex. So the crimp should fit with no problem.

Do you want the paddle side and the lower connector side blue and yellow both?

Are these the type of connector you used, they look the same from the photo. They have the polarity ribs but they can be snipped off easily.

10 inch leads in the steering column and 5 foot for the other?

And yes there is a housing without the tabs.

Edit:
What I will be using is Belden 8442.
This has a Black and a Red wire in a jacket, 22gauge
This wire is rated at 300v temp 60c
Considered communication wire
I will start a new thread for the wiring kit!

Sounds perfect to me! There's no advantage to having a jacket in the steering wheel, but it's handy for the other end. I'll have to look at the connector, but chances are they're the same as they're very common.

Beans for you Sir!

Jaak, I can't bean you again! - Bummer!

Hey plcman,

I have a line on carbon fiber steering wheels. You know where DCX puts the tortoise sheel looka-alike thing on the wheel? They put real carbon fiber or wood. I am trying to work a group buy for about 250 + 150 refundable core. If we do this right, we may be able to pre-build them and offer them up as a set.

Hmmm... Sounds like the steering wheel I bought to figure out how I was going to build paddles, which ended up in Token's car. I really liked it. But I like the SRT one better... Which is why it ended up in Token's car. :mrgreen:

[sik300srt8]

you guys are awesome....

[plcman]

Sounds perfect to me! There's no advantage to having a jacket in the steering wheel, but it's handy for the other end. I'll have to look at the connector, but chances are they're the same as they're very common.



Hmmm... Sounds like the steering wheel I bought to figure out how I was going to build paddles, which ended up in Token's car. I really liked it. But I like the SRT one better... Which is why it ended up in Token's car. :mrgreen:
I will twist the blue and yellow for the 5' piece. This will help in getting the wiring to the connections.

[DaddyGoFast]

Hey plcman, could you not twist mine?

I have some black fabric tape that I will use to wrap mine with. It is the same stuff, or very close to it, the factory uses. If i need to twist it, I can do it later.

Thank you, Sir!