Lil Hemi
04-24-2008, 03:56 PM
After removing hood, measure carefully and mark centerline of hood.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0041.jpg
Align template with center marks, pull tight and secure with tape.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0043.jpg
Transfer cut out markings to masking tape.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0044.jpg
Use a 1/2 inch hole saw or Unibit to make a starter hole for the jig saw.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0045.jpg
Cut along the line marked on tape with a jigsaw tilted at a 10 degree angle so the botom opening is slightly larger than the top opening.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0049.jpg
Grind the sharp edges left by the jigsaw and test fit the lower brace to the hood. Mark edges of lower brace and scuff surface so adhesive, 3M 5200 marine adhesive found at Home Depot, will make a strong bond. Apply adhesive and install the 16 screws into the premarked locations on the lower brace attaching it to the hood. On the top side of the hood use adhesive to fill the gap between the hood and the lower flange. Allow this to dry 24 hrs. so the hood will not push in when the trim ring is clamped to the hood surface.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0050.jpg
If you want you can replace the screws with pop rivets and use seam sealer on the top and bottom edge of the lower brace. I decided to paint the entire bottom side of the hood to blend it all together.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0051.jpg
After everything dries you can position your hood insulator and mark it so about one inch will fit under the edge of the lower brace.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF00662.jpg
Using a straight edge and a sharp razorknife, cut along the marking you made on the insulator.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF00672.jpg
Using new push-in retainers, reattach the hood insulator to the hood. I added a third retainer to each side just to keep the insulator from moving around. Also re-install the rubber weatherstrip just in front of the lower brace.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0068.jpg
If you haven't already done so now is a good time to touchup any defects and prime the trim ring .
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0060.jpg
Check the fit and placement of the trm ring and attach to hood. I used Loctite Power Grab double-sided adhesive tape, found at Home Depot , on the outer edge of the trim ring where the trim ring meets the hood. I then used 3M 5200 marine adhesive, also found at Home Depot, the same adhesive I used to bond the lower brace, on the inner edge where the trim ring and the lower brace make contact. Mask around the trim ring and you can then prep the trim ring for paint. I attached my trim ring to the hood and blended the lower brace and the trim ring together with body filler before I painted the bottom side of the hood, however when I removed the masking tape from the trim ring it also pulled the paint off of the trim ring as you can see in the photo. Nothing a little more sanding and more paint can't take care of.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0069.jpg
Like I said nothing a little sanding and more paint can't fix. Reinstall the washer nozzles and admire your work.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0074.jpg
Now its time to move on to the engine compartment. After removing the the engine cover, remove the 4 ball studs that the engine cover attaches to.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF00542-1.jpg
Using a 3/16 drill bit, drill out the holes where the ball studs were removed. Use the supplied tool to tap new threads into the holes you just drilled. Be sure to tap these in straight.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF00552.jpg
Install the four new studs into the holes just tapped. The shortest stud goes into the passenger side hole at the front of the motor. The next longer stud goes into the passenger side rear hole. The third longest stud goes into the drivers side front hole, and the longest stud goes into the drivers side rear hole.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF00562.jpg
After removing your air intake system you will be ready to start test fitting the lower shaker mount. Tilt the shaker up at the front and set it on the rear studs, then lower it down onto the front studs. Check for any interferance that will not allow the base to sit correctly and make adjustments as necessary.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF00602.jpg
I had an interferance between the base and the strut tower sheet metel. Nothing a sawzall can't take care of.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF00572.jpg
No more interferance!!
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF00582.jpg
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF00592.jpg
After you are happy with the fit of the lower shaker mount you will need to remove the factory air box so you can insert the plug into the opening in the bottom. This is a very tight fit, I used some liquid soap and a hammer to get this into place. Be carefull not to break the airbox when doing this. After installing the plug you can reinstall the airbox.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF00642.jpg
Install the 90 degree hose to the throttle body and transfer the mass air flow sensor from the factory tube to the new one and reconnect the wire. Again I used liquid soap to assist in installing the sensor.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0073.jpg
Next install the filter inside the new airbox cover. Push this on as far as you can and tighten clamp.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0070.jpg
Install the airbox cover, short silicone tube and aluminum tube to the rubber 90 degree elbow installed eariler. Position the clamp bolts to the bottom to avoid hitting the shaker base. With everything in place you can now tighten all the clamps.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0072.jpg
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0077.jpg
Now you are ready to reinstall the hood.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0078.jpg
Reinstall hood struts if you have them.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0079.jpg
Check hood alignment and adjust if necessary.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0080.jpg
With the shaker base installed check for clearance between the shaker base studs and the lower hood brace. If there is not enough clearance these studs will rub on the hood support when the shaker is installed with the acorn nuts.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0084.jpg
On mine I had to grind this bolt mount back to get the shaker base to sit lower for added clearance. Be careful not to grind too much as this supports the shaker mounting stud.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0081.jpg
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0083.jpg
Install shaker and check alignment and clearance. Make any adjustments needed by raising and lowering with the mounting studs. The shaker can also be moved side to side by slightly bending the mounting studs.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0085.jpg
After you are happy with the alignment and clearance of the shaker its time to once again remove the shaker and the base. After removing you can now install the drain hoses to the bottom of the shaker base. Also be sure to attach the crankcase vent tube to the fitting on the airbox.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0089.jpg
Now you can put the shaker base back on, but first be sure to install the gromet to the oil fill tube, then install the longer silcone tube and clamps between the base and the airbox. May take a little manuvering to get everything into place but it will make it and all will drop in, just be patient.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0090.jpg
With the base installed you can now add the weatherstrip to the shaker base and check and tighten all clamps and bolts.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0001-1.jpg
Check your oil level before installing the shaker as you will have to remove the shaker in the future to add oil. Install shaker with the 8 acorn nuts and tighten them evenly. Reattach the washer hoses to the nozzles and you are done!!
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0003-1.jpg
Stand back and enjoy!!:friday:
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0002-1.jpg
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0041.jpg
Align template with center marks, pull tight and secure with tape.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0043.jpg
Transfer cut out markings to masking tape.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0044.jpg
Use a 1/2 inch hole saw or Unibit to make a starter hole for the jig saw.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0045.jpg
Cut along the line marked on tape with a jigsaw tilted at a 10 degree angle so the botom opening is slightly larger than the top opening.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0049.jpg
Grind the sharp edges left by the jigsaw and test fit the lower brace to the hood. Mark edges of lower brace and scuff surface so adhesive, 3M 5200 marine adhesive found at Home Depot, will make a strong bond. Apply adhesive and install the 16 screws into the premarked locations on the lower brace attaching it to the hood. On the top side of the hood use adhesive to fill the gap between the hood and the lower flange. Allow this to dry 24 hrs. so the hood will not push in when the trim ring is clamped to the hood surface.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0050.jpg
If you want you can replace the screws with pop rivets and use seam sealer on the top and bottom edge of the lower brace. I decided to paint the entire bottom side of the hood to blend it all together.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0051.jpg
After everything dries you can position your hood insulator and mark it so about one inch will fit under the edge of the lower brace.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF00662.jpg
Using a straight edge and a sharp razorknife, cut along the marking you made on the insulator.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF00672.jpg
Using new push-in retainers, reattach the hood insulator to the hood. I added a third retainer to each side just to keep the insulator from moving around. Also re-install the rubber weatherstrip just in front of the lower brace.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0068.jpg
If you haven't already done so now is a good time to touchup any defects and prime the trim ring .
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0060.jpg
Check the fit and placement of the trm ring and attach to hood. I used Loctite Power Grab double-sided adhesive tape, found at Home Depot , on the outer edge of the trim ring where the trim ring meets the hood. I then used 3M 5200 marine adhesive, also found at Home Depot, the same adhesive I used to bond the lower brace, on the inner edge where the trim ring and the lower brace make contact. Mask around the trim ring and you can then prep the trim ring for paint. I attached my trim ring to the hood and blended the lower brace and the trim ring together with body filler before I painted the bottom side of the hood, however when I removed the masking tape from the trim ring it also pulled the paint off of the trim ring as you can see in the photo. Nothing a little more sanding and more paint can't take care of.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0069.jpg
Like I said nothing a little sanding and more paint can't fix. Reinstall the washer nozzles and admire your work.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0074.jpg
Now its time to move on to the engine compartment. After removing the the engine cover, remove the 4 ball studs that the engine cover attaches to.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF00542-1.jpg
Using a 3/16 drill bit, drill out the holes where the ball studs were removed. Use the supplied tool to tap new threads into the holes you just drilled. Be sure to tap these in straight.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF00552.jpg
Install the four new studs into the holes just tapped. The shortest stud goes into the passenger side hole at the front of the motor. The next longer stud goes into the passenger side rear hole. The third longest stud goes into the drivers side front hole, and the longest stud goes into the drivers side rear hole.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF00562.jpg
After removing your air intake system you will be ready to start test fitting the lower shaker mount. Tilt the shaker up at the front and set it on the rear studs, then lower it down onto the front studs. Check for any interferance that will not allow the base to sit correctly and make adjustments as necessary.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF00602.jpg
I had an interferance between the base and the strut tower sheet metel. Nothing a sawzall can't take care of.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF00572.jpg
No more interferance!!
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF00582.jpg
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF00592.jpg
After you are happy with the fit of the lower shaker mount you will need to remove the factory air box so you can insert the plug into the opening in the bottom. This is a very tight fit, I used some liquid soap and a hammer to get this into place. Be carefull not to break the airbox when doing this. After installing the plug you can reinstall the airbox.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF00642.jpg
Install the 90 degree hose to the throttle body and transfer the mass air flow sensor from the factory tube to the new one and reconnect the wire. Again I used liquid soap to assist in installing the sensor.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0073.jpg
Next install the filter inside the new airbox cover. Push this on as far as you can and tighten clamp.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0070.jpg
Install the airbox cover, short silicone tube and aluminum tube to the rubber 90 degree elbow installed eariler. Position the clamp bolts to the bottom to avoid hitting the shaker base. With everything in place you can now tighten all the clamps.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0072.jpg
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0077.jpg
Now you are ready to reinstall the hood.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0078.jpg
Reinstall hood struts if you have them.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0079.jpg
Check hood alignment and adjust if necessary.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0080.jpg
With the shaker base installed check for clearance between the shaker base studs and the lower hood brace. If there is not enough clearance these studs will rub on the hood support when the shaker is installed with the acorn nuts.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0084.jpg
On mine I had to grind this bolt mount back to get the shaker base to sit lower for added clearance. Be careful not to grind too much as this supports the shaker mounting stud.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0081.jpg
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0083.jpg
Install shaker and check alignment and clearance. Make any adjustments needed by raising and lowering with the mounting studs. The shaker can also be moved side to side by slightly bending the mounting studs.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0085.jpg
After you are happy with the alignment and clearance of the shaker its time to once again remove the shaker and the base. After removing you can now install the drain hoses to the bottom of the shaker base. Also be sure to attach the crankcase vent tube to the fitting on the airbox.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0089.jpg
Now you can put the shaker base back on, but first be sure to install the gromet to the oil fill tube, then install the longer silcone tube and clamps between the base and the airbox. May take a little manuvering to get everything into place but it will make it and all will drop in, just be patient.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0090.jpg
With the base installed you can now add the weatherstrip to the shaker base and check and tighten all clamps and bolts.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0001-1.jpg
Check your oil level before installing the shaker as you will have to remove the shaker in the future to add oil. Install shaker with the 8 acorn nuts and tighten them evenly. Reattach the washer hoses to the nozzles and you are done!!
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0003-1.jpg
Stand back and enjoy!!:friday:
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/lilhemi_bucket/DSCF0002-1.jpg