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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerrytotin View Post
    It’s not gonna be a sensor, it’s only gonna be the gas tank if it only happens after a fill up. I’m a tech for Chrysler, any time I’ve had an LX car come in for this issue, it gets a PCM. The cam and crank sensors tend to always throw a diagnostic trouble code for cam/crank correlation or intermittent signal. If your check engine light is not on (wich it probably isnt) then you’re gonna need a PCM, and then you’ll need to have it programmed. The big thing with you is you’re gonna need the tuner that tuned that car to be unmarried. Have the PCM replaced and reprogrammed to factory, then use your tuner to tune it back again for the cam and mods.


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    Jerry, for some reason nobody listens to the situation. PCM all the way as I did it with the problem car I bought.

    All though Mopar sells factory refurbished PCMs please do not use them, i pulled one out of my car that was replaced at the dealer and then it was overlooked as it was NEW!

  2. #17
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    Feb 2012
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    Basic troubleshooting escapes folks that just wanna throw parts at problems in hopes of scoring a hit.

    As Jerry said the gas tank issue will crop up after filling up, only applies to the 19 gallon tanks in the V8 cars (and only the first few years of LX's) - I mention this although OP has an 06 SRT8 which falls into that category, I've seen the gas tank problem brought up in numerous discussions about cars it could never even happen to. Also, there would be no codes associated with it unless you were working around it by loosening the cap and drove that way until you started getting evap leak codes.

    I haven't experienced the cam/crank sensor problems but also as Jerry said I would expect codes from those.

    The PCM failure is becoming a bit prominent with these early cars as we've seen several posts where it was what eventually solved the problem after a lot of guesswork and shotgun parts replacement. It's strange for me to accept as I'm used to older GM trucks where everyone wants to blame the PCM for hard-to-fix problems, and it's almost NEVER the PCM, like 1% of cases. However that's a whole different platform (obviously) and the rules don't apply here.

    Richard
    06 Silverado ISS / 06 Silverado SS / 06 300C SRT8

  3. #18
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    Dec 2011
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    was a bad PCM for me, pretty much the same symptons that you mentioned. 2006 srt8. it would just die and stall, all the time. after tons of trouble shooting dealer looking at it etc, """It keeps dying on me at stop signs and stop lights.""""

    i'll never forget the times dying at a light with full traffic etc, and then it won't restart, nightmares.
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  4. #19
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    So let me clarify something, if I may.... True enough, there are codes associated with failing sensors - namely, the cam/crank sensors mentioned in the suggestions/replies here. My suggestion, which was based on my experience, which had the same symptoms, was not a "concrete" fix, as it is definitely understood that the same or similar symptoms can be the result of completely different issues. We're all trying to help here. Sensors, again, namely the mentioned cam/crank sensors are the cheapest fixes by far, as opposed to the pcm/ecm.

    Keep this in mind when it comes to replacing or even resetting the pcm; it may take some time for some things to settle, as the computer relearns everything, including driving habits & other adaptable signals for communication. This means there is a chance for the possible "problem" sensor to delay the problem. There's also a chance for that sensor to reset & even completely cover up/delete the symptoms altogether - until something else uncovers it.

    By no means am I an expert in this or any other car. Just suggestions based on experience. The last thing u wanna do is spend big money on a pcm & still have the same problem. & don't get me wrong, I'm not against a pcm change. I just don't think that should be the 1st thing checked/fixed. Great luck brother.

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  5. #20
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    Thanks for all the input guys. I'm currently waiting for my refurbished com to arrive. Fingers crossed

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  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by thisme305 View Post
    So let me clarify something, if I may.... True enough, there are codes associated with failing sensors - namely, the cam/crank sensors mentioned in the suggestions/replies here. My suggestion, which was based on my experience, which had the same symptoms, was not a "concrete" fix, as it is definitely understood that the same or similar symptoms can be the result of completely different issues. We're all trying to help here. Sensors, again, namely the mentioned cam/crank sensors are the cheapest fixes by far, as opposed to the pcm/ecm.

    Keep this in mind when it comes to replacing or even resetting the pcm; it may take some time for some things to settle, as the computer relearns everything, including driving habits & other adaptable signals for communication. This means there is a chance for the possible "problem" sensor to delay the problem. There's also a chance for that sensor to reset & even completely cover up/delete the symptoms altogether - until something else uncovers it.

    By no means am I an expert in this or any other car. Just suggestions based on experience. The last thing u wanna do is spend big money on a pcm & still have the same problem. & don't get me wrong, I'm not against a pcm change. I just don't think that should be the 1st thing checked/fixed. Great luck brother.

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    The last thing anyone wants to do is throw any kind of money at a car without a fix. If the cam/crank sensors fail, there is ALWAYS a code to correlate the concern. He’s never mentioned having any codes relating to cam/crank ever. So why would one waste time and effort and money on a “cheap fix” when it’s just wasting money. Your experience seems to be a bit flawed. I myself am an expert, a certified Chrysler technician with years of experience on these cars. I see what I see, I swear most people who have “experience” have experience with one or two different cars. I myself have experience with hundred of cars, and TONS of the lx cars with this specific issue and this specific stalling for no reason. The PCM doesnt “learn” specific levels of communications. The PCM communicates through the cam bus to different engine modules for inputs and outputs. The PCM looks for inputs and outputs of the engine and transmission, and controller and any other drivetrain related module, the PCM then takes data and uses it accordingly. The engine runs and is tuned based on the oxygen sensor information and timing inputs. However sensor failure and issues with that kind of symptoms are hard faults. The vehicle can run without a cam sensor signal, or a crank, one or the other can fail, the car will die and start up with a long crank time, it will run in limp mode until the other sensor is detected again on a key cycle. But given the vehicle isn’t stalling and long crank time after and no hard codes, the issue directly leads to a power failure to the pcm (not likely) and ground issue to the pcm (not likely) or a bad PCM (most likely).

    I mean, people can listen to whoever they want, im certainly not trying to be a di##, but time and time again I see guys wasting money on spark plugs, ignition coils, cam/crank sensors, oxygen sensors and whatever else they throw at a car for no reason other than to “try this and see what happens” only to finally buckle down and get the PCM they need.

    That’s all


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  7. #22
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    Well I asked what the car was tuned with because I had the same experience with HP tuners. There was no table in the tuning file to set idle rpms so the pcm wasn’t able to maintain the car at idle. My car would stall sitting at lights or at a stop in drive only. Funny thing is it was pretty intermittent, it could happen once in a day, once in three days or 6 times in a day. I tried a number of different things: cam/crank sensors, 2 new coils I swapped around etc. Considered buying a new pcm. Took my car to a shop that had done some work for me before and does a good deal of Chrysler work. He compared a tune file from diablo and mine and said I was missing that idle table. Emailed HP. They put the table in and I put in one number, the desired idle rpm, and haven’t had an issue since.


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  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Newoldchallenger View Post
    Well I asked what the car was tuned with because I had the same experience with HP tuners. There was no table in the tuning file to set idle rpms so the pcm wasn’t able to maintain the car at idle. My car would stall sitting at lights or at a stop in drive only. Funny thing is it was pretty intermittent, it could happen once in a day, once in three days or 6 times in a day. I tried a number of different things: cam/crank sensors, 2 new coils I swapped around etc. Considered buying a new pcm. Took my car to a shop that had done some work for me before and does a good deal of Chrysler work. He compared a tune file from diablo and mine and said I was missing that idle table. Emailed HP. They put the table in and I put in one number, the desired idle rpm, and haven’t had an issue since.


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    To me it seems like the guy bought this car like this, for it to randomly lose and idle table seems very unlikely. My assumption of course. That’s why I’m looking at it the way that I am. It’s possible I suppose. But again, seems pretty unlikely.


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  9. #24
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    Wow. Somebody else telling me that MY OWN experience was flawed. Look man, we're all on here trying to help a fellow car person with their issues. I'm not here to claim being an expert on ANYTHING. I know what I know and my experience is MY experience, and I'm using MY experience as well as other knowledge gained over the years (and yep I do mean YEARS) to help someone who asked by way of this forum. From my 300C, to my super stock HEMI car, & the countless wedge & Chevy builds, I can say I have some decent/solid experience. I'm not here to bash u or anyone & beat my chest about being an expert. I'm here to offer my help. If my suggestions & replies based on MY experiences & overall knowledge about identical/similar symptoms is not what solves the problem, then as long as this guy's problem gets solved, it's great, & something to learn from. That's all I care about. I'm sure that's all that the other helpful people in this thread care about. That's ALL that matters - that this guy gets his car working properly. I don't give a **** about u being a self proclaimed expert. Again, it's the original poster getting his car fixed, not about showing up me or anybody for your own ****.

    Again, great luck with the fix OP!! Keep us updated.

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  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by thisme305 View Post
    Wow. Somebody else telling me that MY OWN experience was flawed. Look man, we're all on here trying to help a fellow car person with their issues. I'm not here to claim being an expert on ANYTHING. I know what I know and my experience is MY experience, and I'm using MY experience as well as other knowledge gained over the years (and yep I do mean YEARS) to help someone who asked by way of this forum. From my 300C, to my super stock HEMI car, & the countless wedge & Chevy builds, I can say I have some decent/solid experience. I'm not here to bash u or anyone & beat my chest about being an expert. I'm here to offer my help. If my suggestions & replies based on MY experiences & overall knowledge about identical/similar symptoms is not what solves the problem, then as long as this guy's problem gets solved, it's great, & something to learn from. That's all I care about. I'm sure that's all that the other helpful people in this thread care about. That's ALL that matters - that this guy gets his car working properly. I don't give a **** about u being a self proclaimed expert. Again, it's the original poster getting his car fixed, not about showing up me or anybody for your own ****.

    Again, great luck with the fix OP!! Keep us updated.

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    I’ve clearly hurt your feelings. I apologize for that. But I’m not “self proclaimed” as to being an expert. I’ve been with DCJR for over 10 years as a dealer technician certified by Chrysler. I deal with this stuff every single day. I’m going based on my diagnostic process, the process chrysler recommends and the process that has helped me diagnose many many many MANY cars with this same issue. If you google this type of issue or even search it in this forum (cause it’s here a lot because no one wants to put in a PCM cause yes it’s expensive) you’ll find multiple posts ALWAYS , well 95% of the time leading to a PCM. I just hate when people start throwing money at cars when they don’t just listen to someone who knows for certain that the issue is what it is. Helping or hurting? Sure you’re helping to a certain extend, but when someone like myself offers every day real world diagnostics, I would listed to the guy who does it on the daily and not waste any more time.

    I hope he does fix his car, absolutely keep us posted


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  11. #26
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    Jul 2010
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    San Antonio, TX
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    UPDATE
    So i replaced the pcm and it seems to have made the car much more predictable. However i lost my custom tune when i unmarried the tuner from the old pcm. So now i've got a generic 93 octane tune trying to understand this cam setup.... what a **** show. The positive part is that it hasn't just shut it self off like it was doing before for a couple days and wide open throttle works perfectly! (thank god) However until I get my kit in the mail to connect the Diablo tuner to the computer I wont be able to see if it really is the fix or not.

    on another note on my way home today i got the Red Lightning bolt and limp mode while cruising down the road. I have read that the throttle body is usually responsible for this symbol. if it is the reason, should i go OEM or is there a significant benefit to buying an aftermarket? if so, which one? thanks guys this thread has been a great help


    Sincerely,
    OP

  12. #27
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    I'd say get the code(s) read and see what it(they) really is(are). You may want to wait until you get your tune. Meanwhile, DON'T operate at WOT. If it goes lean, it could destroy the engine.
    2005 Dodge Magnum RT.
    12/2016 - Inertia big valve heads, Eagle intake, non-MDS lifters, Spartan Plus cam, Shorty headers. 390 RWHP, 390 RWTQ. (Work by Inertia)
    01/2017 - Bilstein shocks, SLP 25% underdrive pulley. s/b 400 RWHP, 400 RWTQ now. (Work by me)
    10/2017 - Replaced engine mounts with 392SRT manual transmission, added police oil cooler, additional PS and Trans coolers, Mishimoto radiator. (Work by me)
    10/2017 - Replaced Torque Converter with FTI 3,000RPM, Installed 3.73:1 Getrag kit. (Work by True Street Motorsports)
    11/2017 - Wilwood brakes with 15" front brakes. (Work by me)
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  13. #28
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    thanks for the info! ill resist the urge.
    Quote Originally Posted by Feathermerchant View Post
    I'd say get the code(s) read and see what it(they) really is(are). You may want to wait until you get your tune. Meanwhile, DON'T operate at WOT. If it goes lean, it could destroy the engine.

  14. #29
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    UPDATE:

    got the new ecu installed, tune downloaded and now all the world is right it would seem. I'm hesitant to say it's for sure perfect now but it runs much smoother now and hasn't died in drive or neutral once since the tune was downloaded. I'll keep updating as in drive it more.

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  15. #30
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    Jun 2017
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    Awesome man!! I'm definitely glad u got things going with your car. I pray it stays that way. Take it easy, great luck

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