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Went on a mission...something followed me home

9K views 32 replies 9 participants last post by  someotherguy 
#1 · (Edited)
Just a bit of a teaser shot. Some of you may have already seen the bright silver SRT8 on the left...but now it's mine. :) which is why I was making noise recently about selling my silver steel SRT8.



Just turned over 10K miles on the trip home. Yep 10K

Oh and just an interesting related side-note, the early 300C SRT8 front bumper with the separate lip (and also separate 'caps' where the headlight washer squirters go) - hadn't seen this mentioned before on the forum, maybe it has been: the rear bumper is exactly the same way. Top cap is a separate piece (like how a 300C has a chrome piece there) and the lip at the bottom is a separate piece too. Not molded all as 1 piece like the later design front and rear. Kinda surprised me to see that!

Richard
 
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#2 ·
Very nice find

Yes, the 05 and early 06 300 SRT had 2 piece bumpers.

I like the silver steel one sitting next to it as well

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#3 ·
The bright silver is an early run 2006 with the multi-piece bumpers front and rear. The silver steel is a "regular" 2006 that came with the one-piece bumpers front and rear, but I've since put an early bumper on the front. I love the car but I always wanted the bright silver (or black) more, and when I happened across this super low mileage example, I had to do it. It's got some mods I don't care for but it's small stuff; nothing that can't be put right with a little work.

BTW the bright silver car, I got up yesterday morning about 5AM and flew out to pick it up. Then drove back right at 1,000 miles to get home about 3:30PM today!

Richard
 
#4 ·
I just don't like the early front bumpers are just a C bumper with a lip. I like the newer style with the openings better personally.

Awesome find though.

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#8 ·
Man, I hate it when cars end up in paint jail. Who knows why some of these guys seem to have so much trouble completing a job? I've seen it many times and that's why I'm so glad I found my guy over in Taylor that did the work on my black SS. He knocked that whole truck out in just a couple months.

So here's a nice full pic, seller's pic but it's a fair representation of the car:



Non-stock items that are pretty obvious - grille, air duct grilles, wheels, pillar trim and door handle stick-on chrome...as well as the side molding has been removed. It's also got a Pioneer touch screen head unit and a crazy trunk setup with dynamat, a big box with two 15's, amps, and even their own fullsize battery.

I'm looking to get it back closer to original, so I'm planning on un-pimping it. Wheels are coming off and getting changed to either my original old 10-spoke SRT's or possibly the 7-spoke 2nd gen SRT's that are currently on my silver steel 300. Grille being replaced with original, and brake duct grilles will be removed. Chrome stick-on pillar trim and door handles will definitely be removed; hope I can do it without hurting any paint.

And honestly...I'm seriously considering installing factory side molding. I understand why people like removing it and I've done it on other vehicles, but I think it actually looks good on a 300 and should help protect against at least some door dings.

I'm pretty sure I'm going to remove the upgraded stereo and sell it off. The combo I have in the other car suits me fine for the most part - REC, iSimple w/a bluetooth dongle connected to it, and the factory accessory 400W / dual 10" Kicker sub box. Goes more with the theme of keeping the car closer to original.

Will post pics as progress happens! At the moment just working out the title transfer/registration before I start any work on the car itself.

Richard
 
#9 ·
Nice find. It looks a good amount lower than your silver steel as well. Is that due to the tire size or because it has the original low-style suspension? When I redid mine with oem parts it raised up an inch and it was a welcome change because it finally, but barely, cleared the bumper stops.
 
#10 ·
I'm about 99% sure it's just tire size as they are a little taller than stock. The tire size they chose really fills out the wheelwells but I just don't think I can sign onto rolling 22's around where I live; there's just too many bad roads. And, these suckers are heavy.

Richard
 
#12 ·
Thanks...they're sharing space with a pair of Silverado SS's so everything is a tight fit, my old 300's gotta go! Got my title work done so I'll be starting on the new 300 now. Got my trade post in the classifieds, see if I can get some stock parts for it.

Richard
 
#14 ·
I've been taking time here and there to un-pimp my new 300.

Took all the aftermarket stereo stuff out - huge speaker box in the trunk with 15's, amps, extra battery just for the audio gear, all the RCA's, aftermarket head unit, everything. Installed my REC NAV with a pac audio aux interface and bluetooth dongle, and kept the MTX 6x9's for the doors and rear deck since they're 4ohm to match the factory Kicker amp. Took pics of gutting all that stuff but not exactly interesting so I'll spare y'all...

Next up, brand new stock grille installed...as well as stock-style clear corners with LED's, LED's in the stock fogs, and switchback LED's in the turn signals


Pulled the CAI (unknown brand, but has the filter down low in the bumper, not good for wet ol' Houston) and installed factory airbox (non-300 style without the extra resonator)


My 2nd gen SRT wheels and BFG Comp2's swapped over from my old 300, and brand new factory door molding installed. I just thought it looked naked without it.


Chrome door handle stick-on crap and chrome window pillar stick-on crap removed! Wow what a pain in the ass that was.




Richard
 
#15 ·
Looks amazing! Which leds did you go with for the fogs and the front turn signals?

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#16 ·
Thanks! The fog LED's are just whatever H10 replacement "projector" style are out there, pretty sure I got the Cree style from DDM -



The switcbacks are from DDM as well;



Of course a load resistor 50 watt / 6 ohm is needed for each side to avoid hyperflash. Just one on each side, connected to each front turn signal socket, is enough to support normal flash rate with all 4 signals converted to LED. The rear lights are already swapped to full LED bulb replacements (I haven't put those "pyro tube" 2015 style tails on this car, not yet anyway.)

Richard
 
#18 · (Edited)
Thanks for the info. I had the projector style but they began to malfunction and I am looking for replacement. Do you think the side mounted Philips option they have would be better for the oem halogen housing or stick with the Cree projector style?

Also which resistor did you use for the switchback turn signals?

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#17 ·
Nice find and she looks dam good!!!, keep us posted.
 
#19 ·
I haven't tried those new Phillips LED's as I'm not convinced that design is any better. Truth is none of these drop-in LED's are perfect replacements for incandescent bulbs, and since the factory fog/driving lights on the LX's seem more for looks, I figured it didn't matter much as long as what I put in there lights up. ;) I chose them because the color matches the factory HID's fairly close.

I used 50 watt / 6 ohm resistors, the ones that are the most commonly available pretty much anywhere. I've even seen them at the parts stores which is nice if you need some in a hurry. Do note it's not that you need anything special for the switchbacks to work. The resistors are the same ones I would use for regular non-switchback LED's in the signals.



There's a nice convenient spot on the radiator support bar next to the hood adjustment bumpers; you'll notice there's a hole on each side that is for accessing the headlight adjuster screw. I mounted the resistors right over the hole so I could run the wires down to the nearby signal socket and tap in to the wiring. Two small holes drilled for attaching the resistor and a little heat sink compound to help it transfer the heat. I figure up front just behind the leading edge of the hood they're going to get some airflow anyway but it doesn't hurt to give them some extra help.

Richard
 
#20 ·
I haven't tried those new Phillips LED's as I'm not convinced that design is any better. Truth is none of these drop-in LED's are perfect replacements for incandescent bulbs, and since the factory fog/driving lights on the LX's seem more for looks, I figured it didn't matter much as long as what I put in there lights up. ;) I chose them because the color matches the factory HID's fairly close.

I used 50 watt / 6 ohm resistors, the ones that are the most commonly available pretty much anywhere. I've even seen them at the parts stores which is nice if you need some in a hurry. Do note it's not that you need anything special for the switchbacks to work. The resistors are the same ones I would use for regular non-switchback LED's in the signals.

There's a nice convenient spot on the radiator support bar next to the hood adjustment bumpers; you'll notice there's a hole on each side that is for accessing the headlight adjuster screw. I mounted the resistors right over the hole so I could run the wires down to the nearby signal socket and tap in to the wiring. Two small holes drilled for attaching the resistor and a little heat sink compound to help it transfer the heat. I figure up front just behind the leading edge of the hood they're going to get some airflow anyway but it doesn't hurt to give them some extra help.

Richard
Thanks for the info, can you post any pictures of your front setup with all of the lights on?
 
#21 ·
Absolutely do not mind grabbing some pics for you but it may take me a couple days. My weekend work schedule is kind of nuts. I pulled late shift last night and have to go to bed right now for early shift tonight...I'd prefer to have some time to kill so I can work with the camera settings in hopes of getting something that represents what they look like in person. Taking pictures of lights can be tricky.

Richard
 
#24 ·
The one on the right has the aftermarket pyrotube led ones, but yes the 2004-2007 had one design for the v6 then another for the v8 models, then they switched them up again from 2008-2010.

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#25 · (Edited)
Great find! Nice car and happy you unpimpped it!
I love the look without the side mouldings, but haven’t done it due to dings and especially if I go to my inlaws home my sister inlaw let’s her door swing open.

I wish I can post pics from my Photobucket to show you my resistor install location.
When you open the hood, you can’t even see them, they’re hidden underneath the 2 panels by the hood latch, wired like factory and used a couple of aluminium resistor mounts. Thought it’s a good location for cooling as it’s in direct air flow from the grill and if at a standstill will cool off with the fan.
 
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#28 ·
I wish I can post pics from my Photobucket to show you my resistor install location.
Photobucket really has screwed everyone...what's weird though is when you first posted it, I did see the pic. Nice way to mount them and definitely out of sight, out of the way.

Richard
 
#26 ·


Only downside to this location is, it might get in the way of my future Derale power steering cooler mod.
 
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#27 ·
I tried these from Amazon for the fog lights. The color is 5k and is perfect with the HIDs but they are way too bright. They work so well that they fill the housings perfectly as if they were halogens but its as if I have a set of high beams on when the fogs are on now. I think I will try to put some black paint over the front projector lens to block out some of the output.

Camera accessory Automotive tire Camera lens Automotive lighting Cameras & optics


I wish I could find some oem looking projector fogs like on the original 300c concept, not in the mood to do a full retrofit and the ebay ones don't look that great.

Automotive parking light Tire Wheel Vehicle Car
 
#29 ·
Its nice to learn something new, even on a car I've owned and toyed around with for many years. Since the foglights still seemed bright, I thought of adjusting the angle with a screwdriver, but then I just pushed on the foglight lens and it ratchets up and down for fine adjustment of the beam. I did block out some of the leds with a paint marker but with the foglamps angled down its now perfect to not blind anyone.

Considering how bright these bulbs were, I was thinking of ordering another pair of the led bulbs for high beams. Have you tried this or is a standard 9005 still going to work better? I mainly use them for flashing rather than actual visibility.
 
#30 ·
Its nice to learn something new, even on a car I've owned and toyed around with for many years. Since the foglights still seemed bright, I thought of adjusting the angle with a screwdriver, but then I just pushed on the foglight lens and it ratchets up and down for fine adjustment of the beam. I did block out some of the leds with a paint marker but with the foglamps angled down its now perfect to not blind anyone.

Considering how bright these bulbs were, I was thinking of ordering another pair of the led bulbs for high beams. Have you tried this or is a standard 9005 still going to work better? I mainly use them for flashing rather than actual visibility.
In South Florida, you must be fully aware of people driving with their highs on, once I done it for ****s and giggles and was surprised nobody flashed me. Lol
 
#31 ·
I've been tempted as well to replace the highs with LED's just for matching colors up front, although I never find myself using the high beams at all. One of those OCD things I guess. If you're not depending on them for visibility, then I say go for it. I find the factory HID's plenty bright so far without the need to hit the highs for any real reason.

Richard
 
#32 ·
Yeah I only use them once in a while for a courtesy notification to let someone go ahead in traffic etc.. I feel like the instant on and off of the led will get someone's attention better.
 
#33 ·
So I told myself I was gonna leave the stock taillights on the "new" 300, but I had these nice smoked ones hanging around so I figured why not... I think they go nicely with the Hyper Black Hellcat type wheels?



Richard
 
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