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  1. #1
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    Question Need EGR Delete badly!

    Hey guys I have been searching for a diy EGR delete for our 3.5L's which I need done to mine badly! Saw one post but there wasn't much detail on how to do it. It seems like every few weeks I am blowing out the EGR tube on top that's pushed into the plenum and throwing a vacuum leak along with limp mode. Where can I find some info on how to totally delete this from my car. I live in a non emissions state so I don't need to worry about it.
    Can it be turned off via Diablosport settings? I haven't looked yet. Has anyone perfected this to totally delete it from the engine and not throw codes or go into limp mode? I have tried to use RTV to seal up the tube but it keeps popping out with the pressure when I go into boost.

    Please Help!
    ______________________________________________
    2006 Charger SXT 3.5LHO T******** Vortech V3 Supercharger Kit, Custom 2 Tone Paint, Flashtech V3 RGB Halo Headlights & Fog Lights w/WiFi RGB Controller, Powdercoated Boss 304 wheels, Street Edge Coil-Overs, Eibach Alignment kits, BT Custom Badges & underhood, 3G Costumz Firewall/Radaitor/ABS Covers Hydrodipped Carbon Fiber........



  2. #2
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    If you are blowing out that tube, you may want to try replacing the rubber seal that goes on the EGR Metal tube to seals it to the intake plenum(dont forget the lower gasket for the tube as well)..

  3. #3
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    I deleted my EGR, if i recall all my mechanic did was remove the EGR valve and pinch the tube that runs from the intake to the EGR valve
    2010 Challenger V6
    Inertia P&P Heads, Inertia Cams, 71mm TB, SW Longtubes, 3.73 Getrag, Eibach Pro-System Plus
    Quickest No Boost/Nitrous 3.5L 14.76 @ 92


    2007 Charger SRT-8

    ProCharger p1, Kooks Longtubes, 89mm TB, Magnaflow Exhaust

    2005 Ram SRT-10
    K&N CAI, Gibson Headers, Magnaflow Exhaust, SCT tune



  4. #4
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    buy the delete screw from the dealer for about 12 bucks, cut the line and RTV seal it in place to prevent a leak and have ur tuner turn it off.....
    Likes DEMON1C liked this post

  5. #5
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    Well I put a new tube seal back on that stupid pipe. So far so good but yes I plan on blocking off with that screw/plug on the engine block side but as fast as the plenum I was hoping to find a freeze plug to block the hole up. Just have to find one small enough. That should work very well as long as I can find the correct size to plug up that small hole.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Socal818 View Post
    buy the delete screw from the dealer for about 12 bucks, cut the line and RTV seal it in place to prevent a leak and have ur tuner turn it off.....
    I had it taken out of my tune was getting EGR codes and tired of dealing with it.
    I was thinking of using a rubber freeze (expansion) plug for the back of the plentum but just need to measure it to get the right size.
    The delete screw threads into the block after taking off the egr solonid correct?
    This is the delete screw yes?
    Look at this on eBay NEW OEM MOPAR HEX SOCKET PLUG 1998-2014 DODGE CHRYSLER JEEP VEHICLES #6034331 | eBay


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    Last edited by DEMON1C; 07-14-2017 at 06:39 AM.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by DEMON1C View Post
    Nope, by the Description a pics, that would be the Hex Coolant Bleeder Plug for the V8 Models

  8. #8
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    If that isn't it what is the correct one? Someone told me this is the right one.

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  9. #9
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    I may have found a EGR delete plate off of eBay says it fits from an eagle talon 420a engine EGR delete plate. I ordered it so will let you know if it works or not. Also going to try a rubber expansion plug to block the plentum hole. Will give results when I try these in a few weeks after I get back from vacation.

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  10. #10
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    The eBay Eagle Talon 420a EGR delete plates worked great! Also I found an expansion plug for the back of the plentum which worked great also. Here's pics of what I used.
    The plate I used attached to the block with the stock bolts that hold the EGR valve to the block. I also used some cork gasket maker and worked perfectly.


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  11. #11
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    I applaud the ingenuity in finding a solution to the issue at hand, but I would have been worried about the unintentional consequences introduced from removing the EGR gases from the ECU’s anti-knock arsenal, especially in a forced induction application.

    How were you able to avoid intermittent ST/LTKR spikes at WOT after this mod?
    2010 Challenger Rallye Redline - 100K miles and counting...

    Mods: DiabloSport 93 Octane Tune (modified by Nuke), Performance exhaust (Jones Full Boar), Prefamulated Torque Vents (GeaxPhast), Hydrocoptic Fastometers (w/ smervite bearings), A Picture of Your Mother (HS Prom)

  12. #12
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    Turn down the sensitivity on the knock sensors and run 93 shell lol

    Quote Originally Posted by Nuke View Post
    I applaud the ingenuity in finding a solution to the issue at hand, but I would have been worried about the unintentional consequences introduced from removing the EGR gases from the ECU’s anti-knock arsenal, especially in a forced induction application.

    How were you able to avoid intermittent ST/LTKR spikes at WOT after this mod?

  13. #13
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    Wink

    Quote Originally Posted by DB3NTS View Post
    Turn down the sensitivity on the knock sensors and run 93 shell lol
    Well yeah, I guess that might work...and it’s oddly reminiscent of the impromtu fix I once came up with for a flashing airbag light I had in a previous vehicle - disable the light itsef in the dash cluster.

    No more light, no more flashing “Airbag” to annoy me while I drive!

    But kinda like my flashing light fix, I suspect this one could lead to trouble later on down the road (pun intended).

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